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Nov. 19, 2006

Ok guys I got another strange question up for debate and/or clarification. Dodge had the "Magnum" engine and Plymouth had the "Super Comando" engine. Did Dodge at one time or EVER call any of their engines "SuperComando", and Did Plymouth at one time or EVER call any of their engines "Magnum" ??? In my circles the question rages on that Plymouth had both labeled a 383 and a 440 Magnum engine as well as a 383 and 440 Super Comando engine. What's your take on it? Thanks for your input.

Sat Nov 18 15:59:21 2006

My first car was a 1970 Road Runner, I am trying to locate this car! I have the VIN which is RM23N0G144822, that is all the numbers I have. Is there more? Whenever I try to run a VIN check it says I don't have enough numbers any help would be appreciated!

Nov. 17, 2006

Hello All, I just purchased a 1969 Road Runner, and my question is: On the right side of the transmission case I have the following numbers that are cast into it. They are C95664, and also an H3 with C 99129 below it. Thank's in advance for the help. K.

Nov. 15, 2006

Does anybody know either how to restore or someone that does restorations to the woodgrain appearance in the rally cluster bezel? They always seem to be worn thru showing black or dark blotches. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Nov. 14, 2006

I have a 1971 Road Runner I'm restoring. Even though I believe tilt steering columns were not an option for the Road Runner I was wondering if anyone out there knows of another Mopar model and year that came with tilt steering that can be swapped out with little or no difficulty. Sure would appreciate some help with this query. Cheers

Nov. 10, 2006

Who's good with 4 speed trannys? I had my pilot bushing replaced months ago, but now I notice now that the clutch pedel is slow to come off the floor, but then after a couple of inches, it kicks up hard at my foot. I tried to adjust the push rod so I wasn't pressing the pedel too far, but then the pedel drops inside the car? I didn't get a warranty from the shop because I have the crankshaft from an automatic and he wouldn't warranty it. If I try to pull the clutch myself, what would I look for? Months ago he said the clutch and flywheel looked great. This car was an original 4 speed, but they used the wrong crank during the rebuild.

Nov. 9, 2006

Does anyone know whether the rubber floor mat was available in 1969 rather than carpet, or was carpet standard? I know the floor mat was standard in 1968, and my car has very few options, but it did have carpet. I would like to make it as spartan as it could have been, without doing anything irreperable to it. So, if the floor mat was available, I want to use that rather than carpet.

Nov. 8, 2006

I am looking for a "run" wire for my 1968 Road Runner. I am hooking up my second aftermarket tachometer (Sunpro Mini II), the first one went up in smoke, and the manufacturer says to: "Connect the RED wire to any vehicle harness wire which is energized with battery voltage, ONLY when the ignition key is in the ON (RUN) position" I have tested all the connectons coming from my switch and found none that are only energized while the engine is running. My car did not come with a factory tach, so there is nothing in the fuse block for me to connect to as well. I have the factory service manual, but cannot find anything that will help. Perhaps I am looking in the wrong places. Is there something i am missing, or is there somewhere else I can look? Thanks in advance,

Nov. 3, 2006

I submitted a question a few month's ago and didn't quite get the answers that I was looking for so I will ask again. I have a 1969 Road Runner which I know is a Road Runner because I saw the car before it went to the body shop to be stripped and restored, however my cousin who began the project who owned the body shop passed away and the original dash tag, fender tag, and build sheet are not able to be found as of yet. The original motor and tranny has been gone for years. I know the car was a 383, 4 speed post car. I looked for numbers on the rad support, trunk near weather stripping, and driver's side frame rail and the numbers I found in those places were not VIN numbers and I sent an email to Galen's Tag Service with these numbers and have not received a response. Is there any other location on this car where there will be a definite stamp of the VIN number? Until I find either the original tags or a VIN number off the car its only good to me as a parts ccar for my 1968 Satellite.

Oct. 30, 2006

I have a 1968 sat convert with a big block 383 would this car be worth more as a GTX clone or leave it as is?

Oct. 29, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner convertible. I'm thinking about restoring it and would like to know a few things about it before I do it. And I'm having a hard time getting the anwsers. Here is the VIN# and the tag#

RM27H9G144159

M31 NB5 R11 26 END
AO1 A31 C16 C55 L31 M25
B5 B5 M6B B7 A14 067002
F63 D21 RM27 H9G 144159

Can you tell me how many of them were made and how rare this car is and about how much it will be worth if I do have it done? I was told it would cost about $30,000 to restore this car to new condition and want to make sure it's not a bad investment. Thanks a lot for your time, Chris

Oct. 27, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner with power steering. I have a small leak on the lower seal were the pitman arm is. It only leaks under pressure. I usually find a very small amount on the drive after taking it out for a cruise. I have heard of lucas power steering stop leak. Has anybody tried it? I have heard that using this product can cause the gearbox to stop working by plugging the ports. Is this true? Any info will be a great help. Thanks

Oct. 24, 2006

My emergency brake lights stays on all the time very dim, when I engage the brake it comes on bright no problem. I have disconnected the switch and it is still dim. Any suggestions Thanks

Oct. 19, 2006

I have an aftermarket alternator (35 or 45 amp) on my 1968 Road Runner. There is one BAT terminal and two FLD terminals. Only one field terminal is being used. Is this OK? When would two FLD terminals be used. The car does have the Mopar electronic ignition. No Air Conditioning. Thanks for any help!

Oct. 17, 2006

i have a 1969 Road Runner with strange Bendix brakes (disc) up front. I am having a hard time getting these repaired or replacements. Any ideas?

Oct. 16, 2006

I have a 1969 383 4speed Road Runner. I have replaced the leaf springs from Mopar. Should I replace the original tortion bars? And, if so, which ones should I use? The stock, or the heavier bars? What should I use when replacing the bushings? Stock, poly, or poly graphite? Need Help!

Oct. 10, 2006

I have a 1970 Road Runner and am trying to find out the numbers for the bumper jack and stand. Does anybody know the numbers for these parts? I've looked all over, but without luck. Thank you so much for your time if you send a response....ohhh, yes I am looking for these parts.

Oct. 10, 2006

I have a '69 Road Runner with a 383 and a 4-speed. I have had some problems with it starting. It has an old Mallory distributor in it (the cap has the plug wires secured without boots, like a marine application). It also has an electric fuel pump. Anyway, I ordered a replacement cap for the distributor since the old one looked cracked inside. I thought I had a bad gas situation so I disconnected the fuel line from the gas tank and had a hose going to a small gas can and it was still starting. I removed the gas tank to get it boiled out and now it won't start. Does the wire to the fuel pickup need to be connected or does that break the ground on the car starting? I have also had starter issues. I bought a replacement starter and then a relay but the relay they make is different than mine so I didn't replace it. Lot of issues. Thinking about taking it to a mechanic since I am more familiar with Fords than Plymouths (also have a 68 Mustang GT fastback). I was going for the Bullitt set, but like the Road Runner better than Chargers. Any help would greatly be appreciated. Great forum!

First thing I would do is toss the electric fuel pump.You dont need it,unless your using more than one carb.The stock pump is more than enough.The ground strap coming off the fuel tank is a good idea.Had to use it on my 1970 Road Runner.


I was having intermittent starting problems on my 1969 Road Runner. I found when the car would not start, I was not getting voltage to the + side of the coil. I found a loose connection on the spade terminals going to the ballast resistor was causing the problem. The engine now fires right up every time.

Oct. 9, 2006

Does anyone know if there is any companies reproducing grilles for 1972 Road Runners?

Oct. 8, 2006

Is there any company making a carbon fiber six-pack hood for a 1968-69 Road Runner. I saw the fiber glass ones all over but I would like to see if I could find a carbon fiber one. If anyone has a site or company I could find one of these at, it would really help. Thanks Matt

Oct. 8, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner and I just had the 440 rebuilt and had it on the dyno. The engine has 460hp with 500ftp of torque. The shop used a 6a box with my mopar electronic distributor for the dyno and I am told it ran great. I get the engine from the shop and drop it in and the engine runs like shit. Here is what I have done to the car.
1. Pulled engine and sent to shop
2.sanded and painted engine bay
3. Installed new year one engine harnees, forward light harness, starter relay, voltage regulator (for 1969), ballast resistor, orange box (ecu) and batt cables. All was installed on the car the same way before I did anything to it. I have added a new carb, new distributor and MO blaster coil for nothing it seems now... still runs like crap. I am thinking this is a wiring problem. The electronic ignition is wired just as it is in the directions, orange box on firewall with the 1 wire spliced to the wire on the ballast resistor the green not used and the rest to the distributor and neg of coil. The regulator is the one for 1969 but this is how it was hooked up before and it worked. I have just replaced everything with new parts mostly for a clean look in the engine bay. My friend has tested the voltage and it all seems fine (to the Chevy guy that is helping me) he did say that the coil is getting 8 volts to it.
1) Can you tell me how to test voltage at pos or neg at the coil with ignition on not running and with engine running?
2) What does the ballast resistor (white block) do?
3) Looking at the fuse box I have one fuse that says instrument panel. The orange wire runs from the back of it over to under the steering in a connector. The other end of the connector that runs up the steering column doesn’t have an orange wire or no wire for that matter. Am I missing something? My blinkers and flashers don't work now as well. I did find a wire for the blinkers broken behind the horn and I held them together and the blinkers will light but not blink. How can I get this car to purr? I hope the problems at the dash have nothing to do with the engine running the way it is. I am thinking of buying one of the continuous 13.5 voltage regulators for use with 69 and early cars (small blue box). Any help would be great. If I don't get this thing running right I am going to see if my 45 will go through the block of the 440!

Your carb sounds like it is running way too rich, (black sooty plugs) which is great for dyno pulls and max power but terrible for street use. It sounds like you need to adjust your carb jetting and (if it is a Holley) try a different power valve. Find a good carb tuner in your area and let them analyze it if you are unsure of what to do


First, have you talked with the builder? They normally do not want bad reputations. Is the smoke black or white? White or gray smoke is usually an oil problem. If it is black, like what you said about your plugs then it typically is fuel related. Do you have another carburetor you can try? The Holly you have may have had a needle and seat go bad, ingested some dirt or have a problem with a float, power valve or something similar. Did the engine act this way as soon as it was installed? If so, then something may have happened to it during transport. If you are not comfortable doing it, I would have someone check your carburetor. If the engine made the big power on the dyno, it was definitely running properly with the correct air/fuel mixture. If you had a vacuum leak the engine will run rough but normally would not go rich at idle.


I had a similar problem with my rdrunner, on the rebuilt engine with the new performance cam it had alot less manifold vacuum. I had to change the powervalve in my holly dbl pumper to a 2.5. Ran like a top after that

Oct. 4, 2006

I'm building a 440 six-pack motor and had to buy the setup new from scratch so I'm using the aftermarket Holley carbs that are suggested but I'm running a fairly large cam from Hughes racing engines. Does anyone have any suggestions on jet sizes for the carbs? I'm used to running AVS on all my motors so I'm lost around these Holley 2 bls. Thanks

Oct. 4, 2006

Hi, wanting to know the location to put the standing bird decal on the interior of my 1970 Road Runner? I've seen them on the upper passenger door only? Both upper doors and on the dash above the glovebox on the left side? Anybody know for sure how many or where their supposed to be on the interior for the 1970 Road Runner? Sincerely, Gary

From what I've read, the '70s had the standing bird on the passenger door only.

Oct. 3, 2006

I have a 1972 Plymouth Satelite Sebring. My brake lights went out on me. I have signal lights, bulbs are all good, power to the switch, fuses are good, continuity through the switch so that good everything is good but no brake lights. I can get it to the point where brake lights work then when I turn the signal on it won't cancel out the brake light, but it will shut the other brake light off but it will work perfect if I try the other signal. Do you have any idea where the wire from the switch connects to the circuit or any idea what is going on?

It sounds like your turn signal switch is bad. I had the same problem with my '69. I had only one brake light, but the signals and the tail lights worked. Try gently moving the turn signal lever slowly while the brakes are on. see if the brake lights work then.

Oct. 3, 2006

Yesterday I got a fresh air air cleaner assembly for $200 bucks. I measured the opening of the air cleaner it showed 5 inches. He told me it was for a 1969 440 GTX. When I went to put it on the car, the opening was 5 inches but the back drivers side corner of the bottom plate of the air cleaner where the vent tube is won't pass the wiper motor. Does anyone now what the difference is between the 440 and 383 fresh air air cleaner assembly? I was told that may be it of is there a spacer between the lower air cleaner plate because it looks like if I had a 1 to 2 inch spacer it might work.

The 440 air cleaner base does not sit as high as the 383 since the 440 is a taller engine. And the cars that used this air cleaner had the side ways 3 speed wiper motor for clearence.


Does the car have 2 or 3 speed wipers. The air grabber will only work with the 3 speed motor.The 3 speed motor is angled differently and it's the only way the air cleaner will fit.


The wiper motor is your problem. These cars used 2 different types. The cars that were set up for fresh air used a wiper motor that "hugged" the firewall. You can change the wiper motor or I have seen guys cut away part of the air cleaner base for clearance or as a last resort bend/hammer the air cleaner base out of the way of the wiper motor. The 440 and 383 use the same air cleaner base.

Oct. 2, 2006

Someone mentioned earlier on this site about Galen Govier at "GTS" for fender tag and vin tag info. I sent my request in to them February 16, 2006. I have sent numerous e-mails and have calls to them with no reply. I would think twice before using these people! It looks like you will need about 1 year before you can get anything from them. Too bad because they seemed like nice people. Please let me know how long it has taken for others to get their information from them?

UPDATE on 10/17/06: Just got it from GTS! And it was worth the wait. I still have questions and have called and no answer. Here we go again!

That seems to be the norm w/ GG. others have posted on moparts.org about no response.


Hi Tom, I waited more than 2 years for mine, and then gave up, never received it. Had it done within 2 weeks from another company.


That is odd. I have never had a problem contacting them. Galen is quite busy what with shows and all to attend and trips to verify customer's cars, but it is very strange that it has taken him this long to respond to your inquiries. All I can tell you is "give it another try" and see what happens.


It took about 4 months and this is peek time for car shows, like Cruising the Coast. They have a discalaimer on the web site and it reads it will take a minimum of 90 days normally. It is good product just don’t be in a rush. They decoded my 69 Road Runner which turned out to be 1 of 2 built.

Oct. 2, 2006

Oh boy! I have a 69 Road Runner w/ a 440 that I just rebuilt. Before I rebuilt it I had blow by and it ran way rich. I spent $7,000 on machine work and parts (alum. heads, Mopar M1 intake w/holley 750 DP with a DYNO test 460 HP w/500ftp of tourque. The engine is bore 30 over. My problem is the engine runs very poorly! Idle is rough and it stinks so bad. I was told that it was all timed and ready to go. I checked that the wires are in the right place and checked the timing replaced the plugs that were all black carbon started it up and it runs the same. I don't know what else to do...7k on an engine that ran better before I had it rebuilt. The smell/smoke is so bad!! I would like to break the guy's neck! Turn key and go...My foot...What should I do now?

Oct. 2, 2006

I just recently got a 1973 Road Runner from my brother in-law it needs little work the body. I know I need to get a new motor, new trans and possiably a new rear end. I was wondering if anyone can lead me to the right sites to find the things I need. I would be greatly apperiated. I'm only 25 and just now getting out of the import scene and getting into the big boy's. Thanks for reading this message, Tom from Las Vegas, Nevada.

Check this website for some of the restoration books they have and use their for sale and wanted sections. Get all the literature you can find on your particular car and study it before you start the actual work. Get on the internet and start with searches such as “mopar restorations”, “mopar restoration parts” or a number of similar searches. You will find parts from companies such as Year One, Jim’s Auto Parts, Tony’ Parts (great for body pieces), etc. I have used Ebay with great success in my 68 Runner restoration. Go to Ebay and search under “73 Road Runner” or similar searches. You will be surprised how much stuff is out there. There is a lot of information available; you just need to find your favorite places to deal with.

Oct. 1, 2006

Has anyone heard of the build sheet being on top of the gas tank? I've been on the search for the thing, and a buddy said that it also could of been placed there. Thanks, Matt

Never heard of it being on top of the gas tank, but with old Mopars you can never say never. I've heard of it being on top of the head liner and behind the dash.


It's possible.I found mine stuck in the headliner.(1970 RR)

Oct. 1, 2006

I just put on a 800 Edelbrock in my 383 Road Runner. After the usual adjustments with timing and all I still have no low end power. I've yet to even get a chirp out of the tires. What do you think this could be. The 383 is bored 30 over and has a new cam.

Well, first off you must remember "bigger is not always better" when it comes to carburetion. All to often, "bigger is worse" in terms of induction. Air flow velocity plays a big part in carb selection. This in turn is also dependent upon intake manifold, cam selection, cylinder head selection and compression. You said you have a new cam. What are the specs? (duration at .050, lift and centerline degrees). It is also possible that the cam was installed improperly which will kill off low end power. How much compression do you have? What is your timing set at? Have you done any distributor work (recurving the advance curve, etc), Are you using headers or stock exhaust manifolds? Do you have an automatic or 4 speed? If automatic - what is the stall speed of your converter? Do you have a shift kit in the trans to help it shift more firmly? What is your rear gear ratio and are you running a Sure Grip or open carrier? What tire size are you running? You see, all these things work together in balance. Just slapping on a bigger carb and expecting the car to run better is not going to do anything for you and will in all likelyhood make the car run worse. Without knowing all your parameters all we are doing is taking shots in the dark here. It sounds as if you have a slightly warmed over 383 that could stand a little more advance in the timing, a smaller carb (600 - 650 cfm), possibly a higher stall converter in the trans (if it is an automatic) and a slightly stiffer rear gear ratio (around 3.55). You'd have great "seat of the pants" response and the car would be a great cruiser.


I just went through the same thing with a friends Runner. He had the 800 AVS style Edelbrock carb and it did exactly what you are describing. I rebuilt his stock AVS, installed it and the car runs great. The 800 cfm is a little large for a reasonably stock 383. I don’t know if the Edlebrock carb needs more airflow at low RPM for proper mixture. You may want to contact the Edelbrock technical help line and ask them. There is a fine line between having the right cfm rating, air/fuel mixture and timing to make any car, especially Mopars, to run correctly off idle and low speed.


Try advancing the timing to 38 degrees at about 3500 rpms.This should help a little.

Oct. 1, 2006

I have a 68 Road Runner with the purple "Beep Beep" horn. When I press the horn button all I get is a click sound. Is there something I can do to repair or rebuild this item, or is it junk? Thanks, Steve W.

Make sure your horn relay, located next to the horn, is ok. If it is, your can try SLIGHTLY turning the adjustment screw on the horn. No more than ¼ turn at a time and try the horn. Mark the adjustment screw for a reference of your starting point and try moving the adjustment one direction in ¼ turn increments up to one full turn. If it doesn’t work, move the adjustment back to the original setting and try it the other direction in ¼ turn increments. If it doesn’t work within a full turn either way then the horn is probably shot. If you get a new horn, the 68 Runners had a single black ‘Beep Beep” horn with NO decal. The 69’s had black with the decal, later Runners had the purple horns.

Oct. 1, 2006

I bought a body plug kit for my 68 Road Runner. It's not as easy to figure out which plugs go where as I thought it would be. There are identical diameter plugs but different materials - plastiv v. rubber. Does anyone have or know where to get a diagram/description for the 68 B-body body plug layout? Thanks.

Sept. 30, 2006

Is there any company that can reproduce fender tags by the serial number?

You'll need the build sheet to accurately reproduce a fender tag. The build sheet has all the options and standard equipment codes used to build your car. The serial number has none of that.

Sept. 29, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner with a VIN number (on the dash and the title) showing it is a coupe but the car is a hard top. I've checked the raditator support frame and the trunk rail and they both match the VIN. Can anyone tell me if I can correct this problem. Thank you.

Sept. 28, 2006

I am attempting to find a 1973 Road Runner I sold in 1977. Is there a Road Runner registry that I might search with the VIN? Or, does anyone have any other sources I could go to to assist me in locating the car? Thanks in advance, Doug

Sept. 28, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner. I am having a charging problem. Vehicle is a ground up restoration. I have checked all of my grounds. Bench tested the alternator and it is charging (it is new), put in a new voltage regulator (2nd one just in case). I believe I have checked everything looking for suggestions just in case I overlooked something. Thanks in advance for your help.

I have recently been through my charging system on my 68 Runner. A couple of things come to mind. Do you have the ground strap from the engine to the firewall? Usually it is bolted to the rear of the passenger side head, just behind the intake manifold and bolts to the firewall. If you don’t have it the engine may not have a good ground and therefore neither does your alternator. Do you know if your ammeter on the dash is ok? It is part of the charging circuit and if it has a problem your system may not operate. If you have a voltmeter, start your car and measure the voltage between the negative side of the battery and the field terminal (small push on connector) on the alternator. You should read at least 3 volts if the car is requiring a charge. The voltage will drop toward zero as the battery gets toward full charge. If you do not have any voltage on the terminal then the voltage regulator is not working. One other thing, if you replaced the engine wiring harness make sure when it was plugged into the firewall bulkhead connector the contacts did not push out to where they are not making a good connection.


Check the connections on your amp gauge. If they are loose or corroded, your system won't charge. Check the gauge also.

Sept. 27, 2006

I'm replacing a 318 in my 1970 Challenger convert. with the cheapest crate Hemi. Hemi / 4-speed / Dana 60 VS. Hemi / 727 Torqueflite / 8 3/4. I know that the Dana 60 is heavy, but stronger than an 8 3/4. I always see Hemi cars with a Dana 60 if the car is a 4-speed. I'm assuming that I'll be safe with a Hemi and a 8 3/4 with a automatic (727). Cruising usage with maybe a little holeshot here and there. What's your thoughts? Please point me in the right direction if your not sure. Thanks for your time, Shawn.

The 8-3/4" rear was used behind automatic/Hemi combinations from the factory. The Dana 60 is more durable but also more difficult to change gearsets in. Some guys still use 8-3/4" rears behind their automatic/Hemi combos in Super Stock race cars so the 8-3/4" rear should do well for you. Just make sure its all fresh and you should be good to go.

Sept. 27, 2006

I have a 1968 Road Runner with the pop out quarter windows. The window seal is new, but the windows are loose at the front hinge area. Does anyone one sell a new hinge seal? I can't find them listed anywhere.

Sept. 26, 2006

Where can I get a list of the "wacky" color names used on the muscle car Plymouths? Like, Go- Mango, Sublime Green etc. Thanks

Plymouth colors were:
FC7, In-Violet, 1970,1971
EF6, Ralleye Green, 1969 (spring color only)
FJ5, Lime lite, 1970
FJ6, Sassy Grass, 1970,1971
EK2, Vitamin C, 1969,1970
EL5, Bahama Yellow, 1969,1970,1971
FM3, Moulin Rouge, 1970(spring color only) 1971 (Special order only)
EV2, Tor Red, 1969,1970,1971,1972
FY1, Lemon Twist, 1970,1971,1972,1973
GY3, Curious Yellow, 1971
Colors that were allegedly rejected by Chrysler: Catch Me Copper; Unforseeable Fuicha; Statutory Grape: Gang Green; Well Red; Cost Of Living Rose; Fisher Body Rust; Hi-Ho Silver; and Frank Lloyd White.

Sept. 25, 2006

On a 1968 Road Runner, what does the upside down 9 digit number stamped by the radiator refer to? Is it suppose to match something somewhere else on the car?

I believe the number you are describing should match the last numbers of your VIN number located on the dash at the drivers side A-Piller.

Sept. 25, 2006

I'm having problems finding a hood for my 1968 Road Runner, I was hoping to find a fiberglass one but it seams the only hood they have is a 1969 hood that they say is a 68 69 hood, but I don't like the way it looks. So, I had the option of using a 6-pack hood, but I'm not putting a 6-pack motor in it! So if anybody knows some good websites to find parts for a 1968 Road Runner please let me know! I only have 5 days until my car goes to paint so any help would be great!

Try this site www.usbody.com


moparts.org great site


I was just on Ebay and they have a 68 fiberglass hood under “68 roadrunner” as the search criteria. From the picture it looks exactly like a factory 68 steel hood. All you will need to do is install the engine badges in the cutouts. Don’t know about the hinge setup.

Sept. 24, 2006

I have a 1972 Road Runner and the turn signals quit working. The flashers still work though. I replaced the turn signal flasher, but they still don't work. Could it be in the column?

Sept. 23, 2006

Does anyone know if the front pillar post moldings are the same size on a 1968 Road Runner sedan and a 1968 4 door Satellite?

I wouldn't think the piller trim would be the same. The four door windshield is different, and the outside stainless trim is shorter, so I believe the inside trim would be different as well.

Sept. 23, 2006

I have some 15 in rims that came off a 1970 Road Runner. They are the weirdest things I have ever seen! They are steel with NO holes but for the axle studs, they are solid and look to be one piece here are some #s by the air stem...26 60 9 M2 with a 8 under the M2..the back M2 w/8 again and a C. What are they from?

These are Chrysler wheels. I have an Uncle who is into 300s. He explained to me that Dodge and Plymouth wheels have the extra holes, while Chrysler wheels are solid. I have his '69 300 at my place, and it has the solid wheels.

Sept. 21, 2006

I've got a '69 GTX with the 440 and Carter AVS carb. Is there a downloadable picture or diagram of the fuel line, showing the original routing from the fuel pump to the carb?

The best I have been able to determine is the 440’s all used a two piece fuel line. The fuel pump has a nipple input fitting and a rubber line from the frame line to the pump input. The pump output is a threaded fitting and has a short metal line attached that comes out of the pump a turns up behind the alternator. The fuel filter comes next and is behind the alternator. The filter to carb line comes next and loops around the alternator mounting bolt, over the valve cover and into the AVS carb fitting. Most restoration parts houses have the correct fuel line and gas filters. If you are installing a new line and filter, be sure to bend the lines to keep the line and filter away from the block, head and alternator.

Sept. 21, 2006

Does anyone know what was on the under side of a 1970 Road Runner from the factory. This car was undercoated from front to back but where they painted or did they have factory undercoating?

The underside should be body color, with some factory undercoating.

Sept. 20, 2006

I have a 1970 plymouth satellite. My question is: "When it rains, the rain, somehow gets to the front rubber floormats I guess its driping from above since its rubber floor mats but i also notice that the carpet near the kick panel is a little wet." I need to know where are the points that rain can come in and what else besides weatherstripping. Its on both floors in the front of the car! I do have a vent as well.

Usually the seals around the windshield wiper pivots dry out and need replaced. I had a '68 Charger, and when it rained, my feet got soaked. And anytime I washed it, there was always a puddle on each side of the floor. I was having the same problem with my Road Runner, but I had replaced the wiper seals. I figured out the radio antenna wire grommet had fallen out of the body where it comes thru the side of the body. But usually it is the wiper seals.

Sept. 17, 2006

In my 68 Road Runner I have a split bench seat with a armrest. The seats also have headrest, and it looks to have a decor package. Would this be right for this year?

I don’t think so. The only seat installed in a 68 Road Runner was a full width bench seat with the standard split backs that tilted forward for rear access. I have never seen nor heard of any 68 with an armrest. You could order headrest for just the driver or both sides. The GTX option provided more seat choices.

Sept. 10, 2006

I have a 1970 Road Runner and I was looking for somewhere to get a set of the Rally wheels. Also, does anyone know the stock tire size of that model and where I can get the Road Runner decal that runs down both sides of the car?

Check with either Year One (www.yearone.com) or the Paddock (www.paddockparts.com) for your dust stripe. As for the Wheels, you can order them from a number of suppliers. The manufacturer of the new vintage Rallye wheels is Wheel Vintiques and they are available from Summit Racing, Jegs and a number of other places. Get the 15"x7" Rallyes, center caps and trim rings (all told it comes out to very nearly $200 per wheel) with 5x4.5" bolt pattern and 4" back spacing and you'll be all set. If you want a balanced look to the car get a set of 235-70R15 tires all around. If you want a more aggressive look get 275-60R15's on the back and the 235-70R15's on the front. The 275-60's and 235-70's are the same diameter (28" tall) which is why I went with this setup on my '69 runner. Year One and the Paddock can also get the wheels for you but they might be a bit more expensive than either Summit Racing or Jegs. Don't forget the chrome lug nuts as well.


About any of the Mopar restoration parts houses have what you need. Check your internet for “Mopar Restoration Parts” or something similar and take your pick. Companies such as YearOne, Jim’s Auto Parts and others have the wheels and decals. If you have one of the decoder books available (this website) you can get the tire code from your fender plate (beside your battery) and find the tire size that originally came on your car.


I've just been through a wheel/tire issue with my 70 Roadrunner. The ralley wheels (14") are available, powder coated, new reproductions from www.coker.com. Also, the Firestone Wide Ovals are available (size F7014) there in either raised white, pinstripe or redline, depending on what your car has or had.

Sept. 8, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner, dash lights and high beam indicator do not work. Can anyone help? Thanks.

The 68-69 Road Runners have several individual twist in light sockets that supply light for the speedometer, gauges, oil pressure, turn signals, brake, etc. They are located on the back of the instrument panel and can be removed from under the dash by simply turning them a partial turn and removing. First disconnect your battery for electrical safety and look up under the dash. They are black rectangular looking sockets. They use a plug-in light bulb that can still be purchased at most parts stores or Mopar restoration parts dealers. If you have some dash lights you may need to just replace some bulbs. If you have a service manual there are some good pictures of the back of the instrument panel and the location of the sockets.


Check the ground wire coming from the dash to the body


Have you checked the fuses? And the light bulbs? The high beam indicater is probably a burnt out bulb. The panel dimmer switch usually acts up, and that will keep the dash lights from working. Try moving the dimmer wheel back and forth. It could need replaced. The dash lights are on the same circuit as the tail lights, so if you have working tail lights, there should be power for the dash lights.


There is a 5 volt transformer that plugs into the back of the dash that changes the voltage for your bulbs and accessories. Advance Auto can order it. They usually run 12.00 dollars. It has 2 or 3 prongs and is oval shaped.

Sept. 7, 2006

The pinion nut on my 4-speed 1970 Road Runner 8 3/4 posi backed off (new 411 gears were added in the 80's) causing not only a leak, (the flange moves back 1/4")but also made the worst noise while in gear. The 1970 service manual says after taking off driveshaft, draining fluid, removing parking brake struts, all nuts, the axles slide out and clear the differential so the rearend can be removed. My axles won't budge. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong or have missed? After I do get them out and inspect the drive gear and pinion, do I need to take the differential to a shop for pinion bearing preload and pinion setting? What else do I need to know?

When you said you removed all bolts I assume you mean the nuts around each axle flange. You need to use a socket and extension to go through the axle stud flange hole and turning the axle, remove each nut holding the axle flange to the rear-end housing. The axles have a seal and sometimes take a little coaxing to get it broken loose. Both axles should pull out of the rear-end housing with the flange, gasket and bearing as an assembly. You can then simply remove the rear-end center section. Use a jack for support, it fairly heavy. You should have a professional set up your gears. There are a lot of adjustments such as carrier bearing adjustments, pinion depth, pinion preload, backlash and others that all work together for a quite rear end. If your car has the adjustment spanner nut on one of the axle flanges to adjust the axle side play be sure to get instruction on how to set it when you re-install the axles and don’t forget to use the clamp to keep it from turning.


If the real-end isn't the C clip type,your going to have to use a slide hammer to get the axels out.

Sept. 6, 2006

We have a 1969 Road Runner and the VIN says it has a 383 RM21H9A3259 but the hood has 440 emblems. Is there a way to tell if the engine is a 440 or a 383? Maybe something unique that is visual between them. Thanks.

If the VIN shows 383 then its a 383 car. 1969 Road Runners never came with a 440 4 bbl - only 6 bbl - and if equipped with the 6 bbl engine they were also equipped with the fiberglass hood with the scoop on it. All someone has done to your car is put 440 emblems from a GTX on it. These emblems are readily available from a number of sources.


It’s very simple. Looking at the engine, just in front of the intake manifold, to the left of the drivers side cylinder head, just behind the water pump housing and just to the right of the distributor clamp, if it is a 440 “raised block”, you will see a raised machined pad about 1” x 2” with the “440” stamped in it. The 383 (also the 361 and 400 ) engines are considered a “Lo Block”, are physically a couple of inches more narrow than the 440’s (also the 413 and 426 ) and do not have the raised machined pad. The 383’s have the 383 stamped in a machined pad to the left and just under the distributor and in front of the passenger side cylinder head.

Sept. 4, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner. I am trying to find the right speedometer gear for the tires I have on the car now. Seems the speedometer isn't correct. Speedomoter shows I am going faster than I actually am. I have a 4.10:1 rear axle ratio and the tires are P295/50 R15. I have a 30 tooth speedomoter gear on it now. Any help that anyone can give me or at least point me in the right direction for this information would be appreciated. The chart on Year One doesn't show my size tires. Thanks for any help!

Go to MyMopar.com and on the right side click on “downloads”. Find the Chassis and Drive Train section and click on the Speedometer Gear Selection Guide. They have their chart set up by tire diameter in inches and rear end ratio. All you need to do is measure the diameter of your tire along with your rear end ratio and find the speedometer gear that is the closest to your tire/gear combination. If your combination is between two gears, I would go with the smaller as it will make your speedometer read slightly faster. This might give you a slight cushion for your encounters with the dreaded RADAR. Be sure to check your speedometer through a measured mile @ 60 mph after you install the new gear. You should cover the mile in 60 seconds.

Aug. 31, 2006

Does anyone know what the value of a 1972 Road Runner would be without engine or tranny? The body is all original and in really good shape. What you think?

Aug. 31, 2006

Can Anyone tell me where I can get a new horn assembly that has the flat copper disk in he steering column? It maks contact to a roller to operate the horn. The old one has a gove worn in it that wore down the copper so the horn only works in a couple of positions. I can not find anyone that carries that part. Thanks

If you are looking for an original horn assembly you can either keep a check on Ebay under whatever car you are dealing with (68 Road Runner, etc.) or you may check with Tony’s Parts (www.tonysparts.com) in Delaware. He has a really good stock of old parts and has helped me with my projects many times. If you are looking to install a replacement wheel, such as Grant, the horn kits normally come with everything you need new.

Aug. 30, 2006

I recently purchased a 1970 Satellite with a 383. The car will not start after I run it for a while (30 mins or so). It acts like the neutral safety switch isn't working. No electricity to the starter. I let it cool for five mins or so and it starts up just fine. Anyone ever seen this? I'm thinking it's electrical in some manner, but not sure what it is? Solenoid? Thanks.

It sounds like the starter is getting heat soaked. The starter solenoid is part of the starter itself and because of that it can get very hot and if this happens the car won't start. Do you have headers on the car? If so you may need to install some kind of heat shield around the starter. If not I'd say its time to replace the starter because the solenoid is going bad. I'd recommend a swap to a mini starter because they are higher torque and will kick the engine over faster. I'm running one on my road runner with tti headers and it starts right up every time, even with 36 degrees of advance in the distributor. A stock starter would choke on a load like that.


Sounds like the netural switch. Have you tried jumping the silonend? Make sure the plug is on the switch good, look for broken wires too.


You might have already gotten an answer, but I don't see one posted. Sounds like it's the resister (thermal resister I believe). Sounds like it's getting too hot... make sure no connections are loose which would cause slight arcing and create heat.

Aug. 29, 2006

I have a 1970 Plymouth GTX, 440 - 6 bbl, 4 spd, I was told it was an early production car, I am missing the original radiator, I was told that it was 26 inches and had 3 cores, can someone tell me the correct part number(s) for this radiator? Thanks, Steve

Aug. 26, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner. It has bucket seats and is a post car. Does anyone know which stick is correct for the hurst 4 speed shifter? I have seen round ones, rectangle ones and some shorter than others and also how do you get the stick out of the shifter?

The correct bucket seat stick is the round shaft, single bend version. The dual bend sticks with the flat bar at the bottom are for console applications and the shorter ones you've seen are most likely for E-bodies. The Pistol Grips had a rectangular shaft.

Aug. 23, 2006

I put a six pack on a 1969 Road Runner, but I need a diagram for the kickdown linkage, can anyone help?

Aug. 21, 2006

Hello, thanks again for providing this wonderfull forum. I have a question regarding paint codes. I am trying to recondition my 1968 Road Runner dash, and I am wondering if you could tell me the correct paint to use. My car was QQ1 with med blue interior. I hope I have provided enough information. Thanks in advance for your assistance. Steve.

Aug. 21, 2006

Recently, I found a 1971 Challenger. 340/4 4-speed. Plum crazy. I purchased this beauty at the right price knowing that the engine's VIN stamp isn't matching. The casting numbers in the block do appear to be date correct and it is the proper 340/4. What I can't figure out is why the VIN stamp is suffixed with the letter "R". Does the "R" indicate anything special, such as dealer "Replacement"? Thanks in advance for any help, Brian

Aug. 21, 2006

I have a 1968 Road Runner and have a question about the rear leaf springs. I want to install a new set of polygraphite bushings into the original springs [at the large end near the front]. When I attempted to remove the old rubber & the metal bushing sleeve, the rubber came out but not the sleeve. In talking to PST, they tell me the polygraphite bushings are made to directly go into the spring holes without the sleeve. Here is my question: Does anyone know where I can get the part [Tool C-3729] to push out the sleeve to replace the bushings or how they got out the sleeve to update the bushing? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, Randy Hlavac

If you dont have a hydrolic press laying around, you can take a Hacksaw and cut one line all the way through the bushing. Once you have gone all the way through the bushing to the actual spring metal, you will have relieved the pressure of the bushing on the spring. You will be able to punch out the bushing easily using a hammer and chisle.

Aug. 19, 2006

I have a 1970 Road Runner & I'm making it a console shift automatic. I have all the parts but I would like a picture of the parts assembley list with all the bushings and washers ect... The reason is I sent the parts out to be rechromed and the vendor diassembled everything and I really don't remember how all the springs and other parts go together. If you can help or let me know if there is a good publication I can purchase I will be forever gratefull.

The only suggestion I have is to get a copy of the correct shop manual for your Runner. It may have a breakdown showing the assembly of the console.

Aug. 18, 2006

Does anyone out there know how many 1969 Road Runners were manufactured with the vinyl tops? Is this rare or not? Any input would be appreciated. Thank You, Paula

Check with Galen Govier. I've mentioned him many times on this website. His website is http://www.gvgovier.com/. He can tell you if anyone can.

Aug. 17, 2006

I have a 1971 Road Runner. I have the the jack but not the hook. Does anybody know if the hook is interchangable for all years? If not does anybody know the part number on the hook that does fit my 1971 so I'll know the correct one when I see it? Thanks

Aug. 17, 2006

Did they make a Road Runner with a fabric on the body of the car?

Aug. 12, 2006

I have a 1977 440. The only orginial parts on the engine is rods and pistons. I need to know what I need to adjust my heads to. I have a mild cam and and I changed rocker arms to roller rocker arms. Does anyone know where I can find this information?

Well, I'm not sure what you mean by "adjust your heads" unless you are talking about milling them down. If that is the case and you have the original low compression pistons still in the engine the thing to do would be to place some modeling clay on 1 of the pistons (about .2" to .3" thick), install the head (with a steel shim gasket), cam & rockers, pushrods and lifters for that particular cylinder and rotate the engine through 3-5 revolutions and pull it all apart and inspect the clay to see how much piston to valve clearance you have. It may be best to buy 2 adjustable pushrods and 2 solid lifters to do this since the hydraulic lifters will bleed down a little. Once you know your clearances - and there should be a lot - you can then determine how much to mill the heads. A mill of .050" should be ok with the stock pistons. Just be sure to remove 0.12" off the intake manifold seating area of the head for every .010" you take off the head surface. In other words, mill the heads .050" off the head surface and .060" off the intake manifold mounting surface. This will keep you from having a mis-match when you go to bolt on the intake. You should pick up about 1/2 point of compression with a .050" cut which will help a little on a low compression 440. Also, remember that you may need a custom length pushrod now that you have milled the heads. Use the adjustable length pushrod to check.

Aug. 10, 2006

How does a guy go about getting the quarter glass out of a 1970 Road Runner I've removed all the screws that I can see but it will not budge.

Never had a '970, but I assume it would be the same as a 1968 & 1969. Once you take the rear door panel out, there are two small bolts that go thru the bottom of the glass to the window regulater.Take them out, and the window pulls right out.

Aug. 8, 2006

Will the 1969 Road Runner fresh air system mount to a 1968 Road Runner hood?

Yes it should mount, but you will have to do some trimming on the hood where the inserts go. The 1969 hood inserts won't fit. When I got my '69, I thought it just had '68 inserts, so I picked up a pair of '69s. I had to trim some of the metal so they would fit.

Aug. 7, 2006

I have a 1970 Road Runner can anyone explain to me how to remove the glove box latch. There must be a trick to it, Thanks.

Aug. 7, 2006

I have a problem I am unable to solve, though I think it might be relatively simple to someone who is not mechanically declined like me. My 1969 383 Road Runner won't start, and won't even turn over unless you arc across some relay under the hood with a screwdirver. This, from what I understand, bypasses the solenoid. I have no dome lights, no headlights, no power at all whatsoever to the car, and I can't get it to start, only turn over by arcing it. Any suggestions? What could this problem be? Any help is greatly appreciated. Clay Fees

There is a wire known as the "fusible link" which attaches to the starter relay. If this wire is bad you will have no power to the interior as you describe and the car will not start. Go to www.yearone.com and check it out. They may even have a wiring diagram available for you to review but I'm not sure. If not I can scan one from my shop manual if there is a diagram there. Year One has fusible link wires available for sale also. The relay you are arcing is the starter relay. It does not bypass the solenoid as the solenoid is built into the starter. What you are bypassing is the starter switch circuit. The car will turn over but not start because the key is not turned to the "on" position. Try putting the key into the ignition and turning it to the "on" position" and then try arcing the starter relay as before to see if it will fire up. If it does you may just have a bad switch. If not, the problem is elsewhere and could well be either the fusible link or possibley there is corrosion in the master wiring harness box on the firewall. If these things don't pan out then its time to take it to a good auto electrician.


The infamous ballast resistor. These have a history being good and then simply being bad a minute later, my first experience was in a 66 charger approaching a stop light. The enire car just died, like their was a ufo over my head. The ballast resistor is small ceramic resistor mounted on the firewall, to the left (standing in front looking at the engine bay) of the wiper motor. It's about 4" long by 3/4" wide. Still readily available for a few bucks. Check it with multi-meter to be sure but I'll bet that's the problem. Good luck.

Aug. 7, 2006

I have a 68 Road Runner with a 383...what is the correct color of the battery caps? I believe that it is red but not 100% sure.

The Group 24 battery came in a 48 (Cold Cranking) Amps with Green Caps, a 59 Amp with Yellow Caps and the Group 27 battery had 70 Amps and Red Caps.


The battery caps were either red or yellow depending on what your buiild sheet called for. If you have the build sheet, contact Galen Govier at http://www.gvgovier.com/ and he can verify that for you.

Aug. 5, 2006

I have a Superbird with motor missing, I need to know what date motor I should use in this car?

If memory serves me, the Superbird was made only in 1970. But I could be wrong. So you would need a motor dated for that year Superbird.

Aug. 5, 2006

My parking lights go off when the headlights come on. I know that '68s are suppose to, but I thought '69s are suppose to stay on with the headlights? Any ideas? Thanks

The parking lamps are supposed to stay on when the headlights come on. Sounds like a faulty switch.

July 30, 2006

1. I have a 1971 Satellite and was wondering how difficult it is to clone a Road Runner out of it (exterior only), as it has a 400 4BBL engine and a 727 tranny in it already that both run VERY well. Is it just a matter of emblems etc then? I ask this because it was the only Satellite I have heard of that was originally built with the "plum crazy" color option.
2. Can anybody tell me if the T-shifter was the shifter used for the console in either the 1971 model of Satellite or Road Runner, or was it a button shifter? Finally, this may sound a little naive (yes I am VERY new at this), but was wondering if anybody knows why parts are so tough to find for these cars (71 Satellite/Road Runner).

It's pretty easy to clone a Satellite into a Road Runner - except if the Satellite emblems have posts in them. This will mean there are holes in the panels where the emblems are and they will need to be filled and the panels repainted. If the emblems are attached with adhesive it will be easier to change things over, but you may still find that you'll need a repaint because the paint under the emblem will not have the same fading as the rest of the panel. Check with Year One for Road Runner emblem placement and also for Road Runner stripe options. Their web address is www.yearone.com.

The '71 models with auto and console did indeed have the "T" handle "Slap Stik" shifter. My '71 Charger SE was so equipped. I love that Slap Stik - it was the best stock shifter ever made during the muscle car era in my opinion. They are also available at Year One if I am not mistaken.

The reason parts are hard to come by is that for a long time the post 1971 models were not as popular as the 1970 and prior models. Another reason is that far fewer of these models were produced so there is not a large consumer base to market to as a result. Parts are still available in the used market - try Texas Acres www.texasacres.com or Desert Valley Auto Parts www.dvap.com and they should be able to help. Also get some magazines like Mopar Collector's Guide, Mopar Muscle and Hemmings Motor News as these publications have lots of resources for new and used parts.
You can subscribe to these magazines at the HHStore. Click here to go to the store.

July 28, 2006

I have recently purchased a 1973 Satellite Sebring Plus with the 318 small block and three speed transmission. I have a 1970 HiPo 383 with a 727 trans from a Road Runner.I was wondering if buying 1973 440 Road Runner motor mounts would make the application work. I'm not really sure if the K-members are the same between the Satellites and Road Runners in 1973. My 383 is wait for its new home any info would be much appreciated. Thanks.

You can keep your existing K-member but you'll need new custom engine mounts. Call Schumacher Creative Services 206-364-7151 or go to their website www.engine-swaps.com. they have 73 & up A,B,F,M & J body V8 and slant 6 to B/RB mounts - just what you are looking for. Yeah, they are somewhat expensive at $150 + $12 s & h but they include powder coated brackets, insulators, & bolts. If yours is a spool type mount the kit includes brackets, polyurethane inserts and bolts. It's quality stuff.

July 27, 2006

Does anyone know of a source for car bra for a 1969 Road Runner? Also, if they are made, has anyone used one and were you satisfied with the protection they provided and the ease of installation and removal? Thanks very much.

July 25, 2006

I have a 1968 Sport Satellite with a 318. I'm installing a Mopar Performance electronic ignition kit with the vaccum advance distributor. After following the directions on the instruction sheet and triple checking all connections and pretiming procedures I've yet to get the car to start. When I removed the old cap I left the wires attached and could swear that the firing order is not the same as the stock 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. The car ran very smooth but, unfortunately I didn't mark the other end of the wires so I could see which plug they were attached to. Is there any way that a change in the firing order could have been made with any engine modifications? Or, am I missing something simple? Another thing I noticed is that the old cap had the #1 spark plug one move to the left in relation to the new caps #1 position. I was thinking this is because of the position of the coil and its possible interference with vaccum advance when turning the distributor.

The fireing order wont change.If you took out the distributor,make sure its not 180 out.Bring the #1 piston to TDC and see if the rotor is pointing to #1 on the cap.If not,just turn the rotor 180 degrees and put it back.Check the firing order again,and you should be good to go.


Go get a Chilton's or Motor's manual that shows the firing order. Remove your cap and wires and pull the wires from the cap, then reinstall the cap. Using the firing order diagram, reinstall your spark plug wires one at a time from the cap to the plug. This will tell solve any problems in relation to whether or not your wiring got crossed. I've also had trouble with the Orange box control modules. A friend of mine with a 440 installed his setup and it would not fire. He had a spare chrome box so he installed it and the car fired instantly. You might just have a bum control box. I know it might cost more money but go get a Borg Warner control box and give it a try if it still doesn't fire after you make sure the plug wires are installed correctly. My Orange control box failed on me and I had a spare Borg Warner (it was among some spare parts that came with the car when I bought it) so I installed it and I've had no trouble since.

July 23, 2006

I need to know how to put a gas tank on my 1973.

A Chilton's or Motor's manual can help as well as a shop manual.


Prepare the car so you work under it safely. REMEMBER, you are working with gas so be careful not to create a spark. Carefully remove the gas, remove the gas lines and vent tubes attached to the front of the tank and any wires for the fuel gauge. Position a jack under the tank or get some help holding the tank. Remove the two straps that hold the tank in the car, remove the tank. Install the new tank in reverse order. Before you install a new tank, get the proper gas pickup assembly and gaskets with the gas gauge. Follow instruction carefully as far as installing the float assembly. Use new gas lines and clamps, keep everything clean. Check for leaks before driving.

July 20, 2006

I have 2 1972 Satellite Sebring Plus parts cars. Did these models come with sure grip rear ends? How can I tell without pulling the covers and even then, how do I tell?

If memeory serves, jack one of the rear tires up, and with the car in gear, you should not be able to turn the rear wheel if it is a sure grip. Also, there is supposed to be a metal tag on one of the center section/cover bolts.

July 20, 2006

I have a 1967 Coronet It had rust in the trunk at the 11 O'clock position looking down at the spare tire cavity. I had to build a patch panel for the car because i could not find one. My question is a patch panel availible for a 66 67 b body or not? If not is there not enough demand for them? Thanks.

July 18, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner 383 automatic, where do I look and how can I tell if the motor is numbers matching? Where do I look on the block? Thanks, Steve

On the 1969 383 block you will find the VIN stamp on the passenger side below the engine mount on the block immediately above the oil pan. There is a small machined pad on the block on what is called the oil pan rail (this is where the oil pan and block meet). You may need some carb cleaner and a small brush to clean the area if it is a bit gunky. The numbers are not more than 0.1" high so you'll also probably need a flashlight to read them.


If the last 4 numbers on the block are the same as the last 4 numbers on the VIN, chances are the engine came with the car.

July 17, 2006

Can anyone recomend 2 good books? One, a good book where someone has done their homework and made a correct parts numbers and parts that interchange between the 426 and 440? Two, a great book with detailed info. on how to restore a 1969 Road Runner or b-body? Thank you for the help.

This website has a publication section that has several great restoration books. All of them are a great source of information for just about every section of your car. I purchased several and before I started my restoration on my 68 Runner I read them, many times, to pick out the information I needed for my particular car.

July 15, 2006

I have a 1974 Road Runner with a 440 and a/c, looking for a diagram or a blowup on power steering mounting harware and brackets.

July 14, 2006

Where can I find the paint for 71 Road Runner? And, how can I tell by the VIN numbers?

you need to find the fender tag to get the paint code.It should be on the drivers side inner fender, or possibly on the drivers side of the radiator support. It is a metal tag, approx. 2"x4".

July 14, 2006

I am restoring a 1969 Road Runner and have all the glass out except for the vent wing and frame. Can one of you Mopar guys or girls help me out? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also is there a book on disassembling body parts?

OK. Open your door. Looking at the interior side of your door, just below and to the front of the vent assembly, there are two plastic body plugs. Behind these are two bolts for the frame. Next, below the vent window, there is a small plastic plus, about the size of the end of an ink pen. behind this is an allen bolt. On the front of the door, hidden by the fender when the door is closed, are two nuts that go to the vent frame. On the underside of the door, is a nut that goes to the bottom of the frame. By your post, you already have the door glass out. If not, this would need to come out first.

July 13, 2006

I am restoring a 1969 Road Runner with the V-21 performance hood paint. Does anyone know if this was just your basic flat black paint or was it something else?

Year One has your flat black paint. Its called Organosol. Contact them at www.yearone.com.

July 13, 2006

THE CAR: 1972 Sebring PLUS-------The question----Hello all my fellow Sebring Plus owners out there! Can anyone please tell me anything you can about under the hood decal placement. I`m mostly puzzled about the Coolant Warning decal, is it yellow in 72, or is it the red, white and blue one? Also, where exactly does it go on the radiator brace? Any info on the power brake booster decal, the Year One catalog says #88 is supposed to be there. Thanks for your help, Tony

July 11, 2006

Hi, I need to konw the color codes for the following. The Dana rear end, the power straring box, sway bars and the K-member. I have done some looking and they all seem to be a gloss or semi gloss black. However, the steering box seems to have a brown tint. Anyone know where I can find this info? Hopefully they will all be the same color. Thanks for the help!

July 11, 2006

Hi, I am considering buying a 440ci Chrysler engine. I am told it was made in 1973 it is .060 over, it has not run for a few years and probably needs a rebuild. The only thing it is missing is the carb and distributer. How much do you think its worth?

That 440 won't be worth much if it is already .060 over and needs a rebuild. 60 over is as far as you want to go, so unless you are going to install a sleeve in each cylinder (which is expensive) it would be best to pass on it.

July 11, 2006

I have a 1971 Plymouth Satelite Sebring with 383 and recently removed that big cluck of a/c compressor and also replaced the pulleys. But now one the alternator field wires goes up in smoke even before the motor turns over. The field wire happens to be the two black wires that are connected together at the alternator plug. I believe it's the 18DBL wire. I replaced the alternator brushes. Car starts Ok and stays on OK, but do not want to drive it cause who knows what might happen. Can you help or has anybody else experienced this? Can somebody please let me know? Thanks a lot.

Read your question on thr RR Site. If your car has stock wiring,one wire from the "F" terminal should be green(to volt. reg), and the other "F" terminal should be blue/white tracer going to the ballest resister. It would be different if the car had points. Hope this helps.

July 6, 2006

Is there a good cable replacement for the Z-bar clutch linkage (which I am tired of having come apart)?

July 2, 2006

Where can I find a good wiring schematic for a 1968 Road Runner? I found some in the books I have but they are for 69 and up. I don't know if it would be the same and they are somewhat incomplete. Any info on this would be nice. I bought a project R/R with no motor or trans. When I set the motor and trans in the motor is off on the passenger side about an inch. I don't know if that's normal or if I have the wrong motor mounts. The trans I had built doesn't line up with the trans crossmember, it sits about 3 inches forward. I don't know if I have the wrong crossmember or if the 727 is for a truck, I thought they were all pretty much the same housing. If you know something I don't bring me into the circle. Thanks, T. Frazier

For your schematic go to Year One - www.yearone.com. You can either order online or call them. Their phone number is on their website.


You can get a colored wiring diagram from ClassicWiring.Com.Its great,and easy to follow. Try switching the mounts from one side to the other. The threaded end of the mounts should be opposite of each other.

July 2, 2006

How can you tell visually a push button vs a column shift 727, or serial numbers???

Your question is somewhat ambiguous. Are you looking for serial number ID or visual ID? Visual ID is easy. Column shift is on the steering column and push button is on the dash, left of the steering wheel.

July 1, 2006

I have a 1974 Satellite Sebring Plus with a factory sunroof. The headliner is completely out of the car and I don't know if this year had bows or a shell with foam glued to it. HELP!!!! Ron Boen, Minot, ND

July 1, 2006

I bought a new 1974 Road Runner back in January 1974 and now am interested in finding it. I have the original owners club card which has the VIN - RM21G4G158657 It was bought from Foster-Kardane Plymouth in Doylestown, Pa. Any information on how to locate this vin would be greatly appreciated. Phone-678-777-2669

Your best bet is to contact a local private investigator. He can search for it for you but it may be pricey, especially if you have no idea what state it is now located in. It could take some time to find - or who knows - you may just get lucky and find it in the same state you were in when you sold it.

July 1, 2006

I have a 1972 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus with only 55,000 miles on it. Everything is original, and it's in incredible shape. What's it worth to me?

Go get a copy of The Old Car Buyers Guide. It will tell you the value of your car.

June 29, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner which I got from family. I have no fender tag or dash tag due to thieves. Where on the car can I find the VIN? I don't have the build sheet either. Does anyone know if the following is true, there is a VIN on drivers frame rail, rad support & around trunk weather stripping? If these exist & are legible, does anyone reproduce the missing tags?

If the original engine and/or transmission are still in the car, the last numeric digits of the vin number are on them. You may find the number also on the radiator support. If you can locate one of the numbers, you will probably need to check with your local DMV to see their procedure to provide you with a new vin tag. The first part of your numbers will be a RM23 for a hardtop or a RM21 for a coupe (tilt out rear windows). The other numbers or letters will tell you where the car was built (such as a “G” for St.Louis) and the engine that it originally came with (such as a “H” for the 383). This website has a VIN decoder if you find the numbers. Yearone.com also has a good breakdown as to the VIN letters on their website.


Yes, you can get fender tags made.
Contact Galen Govier: http://www.gvgovier.com/
If anyone can help you he can.

June 28, 2006

How many 340 Road Runners were made in 1971?

Check with Galen Govier. I've mentioned him more times on this site than I can count. His website is http://www.gvgovier.com/. He can tell you if anyone can.

June 28, 2006

I have a 1970 Satellite with power windows. None of the windows work and I traced down the "Hot" for the master windows button cluster (Tan wire) to a small square box that is connected to the dash on the left side of the steering column. I feel that this "box" is bad but I don't know what the official name for it is to find a replacement. Also, where would I find a replacement? Thanks.

June 27, 2006

I am restoring a 1968 Road Runner hardtop the code on the fender plate is: RM23 62 5 44 523 314118 Trim is: H4X Paint is:999. I can not find this paint code for '68 but it does exist for '69. Could this be a mid-year change or am I looking at a swapped fender plate? The car is orange and during the stripping, there is no evidence that it was ever any other color. Vin: RM23H8E160773 Any help is appreciated.

Your VIN # indicates the car is a '68 medium price class 2 door hardtop made in Los Angeles with a 383 4 barrel. Your fender tag does not appear to match the VIN. The last set of numbers on the VIN (sequential serial number) should also appear on the fender tag. You should be seeing additional letters along with all the numbers. Is it possible to take a rubbing or a picture and email it to me. I'd be happy to check into it further for you as I have a lot of reference material for the roadrunners. Also, the only reference I have found regarding the 999 code is for special order wheels.

June 27, 2006

Can anyone tell me why panel manufacturers are shying away from providing rear quarters for the 71-72 Roadrunners? There are alot of these cars out there and it has got to be a good investment for them. If there is, (and I havent found them yet) could someone let me know? I have an otherwise good car that someone got upset with rust repair and cut the thing right out. (bummer)

Try some other vendors for used rust free parts like Texas Acres. there are tons of places to find good used body parts. Go pick up a Mopar Collector's Guide magazine or Mopar Muscle magazine and check the vendors advertising in these mags. Also pick up a copy of Hemmings Motor News. You can usually find these periodicals at your local bookseller. If they don't have them they can get them for you.

June 26, 2006

I'm replacing the dash pad in my 69 Road Runner and have the new one ready to go. Should I use black silcone to secure the pad or just secure the bolts on the backside? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

If you use the silicone you'll have a hard time getting it back off if you ever need to. I just use the sheet metal nuts and tighten them up. I've never had a problem with mine.


I used the retaining nuts. When I did mine, I only used the nuts that I could reach with the radio, heater control, and glove box removed. I had to replace mine twice after the first one cracked. This saved me from removing the instrument cluster, and the pad is secure enough with the other nuts, so there's no squeaks.


Take it from somebody whos been there. Just use the nuts on the studs. Silicone has a habit of bubbling and not drying evenly. You dont want to do it all over again.

June 26, 2006

Is it possible to swap a front bumper from a 1972 onto a 1973?

No, sorry they are not interchangeable as the 1972 had a halo style bumper ie: surrounded the grill...the 1973 and 1974 bumbers were a more conventional style. Hope this helps.

June 25, 2006

Ok I bought an alternator from Auto Zone, it says it has an iternal. When I hook it up do I connect a short wire to the two contacts?

June 21, 2006

Does anyone know the correct part number for the chrome oil breather that came standard on the 1968 GTX with the 440 engine?

I don’t know the part number but Tony’s Auto Parts (tonysparts.com) has the replated oil caps. I got one for mine and it was a nice piece.

June 21, 2006

What color do you paint your brake drums? My old restoration guide says they should be stainless steel color, but most Road Runners I've seen are painted an unknown red color. I may have them powder coated the correct color. Thanks.

Depends on what you want. Most guys painted the drums red, "back in the day." That's what I've always done. Of course, it depends on the car's color too.


Go to Restomotive Laboratories' website and get their Metal Mask paint product. It looks like bare steel and protects your drums from rusting.
Click here

June 19, 2006

i have replaced u joints. I dont think that is the problem. It vibrates when in nutral and when the clutch is depressed. I do notice the headers touching the torsion bar on drivers side. I have a question why some time there is a space maybe a 1/16-1/4 clearence between the header and torsion bar and then some times 0 clearence. I am using mity mounts for motor mounts. Another question can changing the air presure in the rear air shocks change the area of were the torsion bar is/move? What if the torsion bar is bent and while the header is touching/against the torsion bar it keeps the engine from vibrating? I checked the presure plate, bolts in tran, bell housing, balancer look the same I dont know?

I have done a little research and I believe your going to have to have the engine balanced.

June 18, 2006

Does anyone out there have a wiring diagram for a 1967 Belvedere II they would share online with me? My dad past away and I was given his pride and joy. The wiring shorted out somewhere and I bought a wiring harness from it's a snap, but it's not and I am pretty well broke. I would pay to have it done but cruzers said $1300 to $2600, that is way out of my league. I need to know how to wire the signal in the front and the parking lights to begin with. Thanks in advance for any help. Deb

Year One has wiring manuals for $20 or less.

June 16, 2006

Is there a wiring schematic available online for a 1971 Road Runner? Just picked one up and the dash wiring is screwed sixty ways to Sunday.

Year One has wiring manuals for $20 or less.

June 16, 2006

Does anyone have the formula for interior vinyl dye that matches bright blue on a 1971 Road Runner? PPG, sims, or any any brand? Thanks

Check with these guys http://notjustheadrests.com/ They do all kinds of interior dying. They did a great job on my headrests but they also do dashes and other interior parts as well.

June 15, 2006

I've got to get up to 60+ mph before my trany shifts into 3rd I'm not sure what kind it is for sure I think it may be a 833. any ideas will help

If you have the automatic its a 727. The 833 is a four speed manual. It sounds like it could be a number of things:
1. Improper kickdown linkage adjustment
2. Improper kickdown servo operation
3. Line pressure out od spec.
I'd check the kickdown linkage adjustment first then go from there. You might even have internal problems with the trans or even a failing torque converter. Take it to a reputable trans shop and see what they say.


Possibly missing a throttle return spring? (throttle shaft to kick down linkage). Maybe it just needs a linkage adjustment.

June 15, 2006

I'm in the process of rebuilding my 1968 Road Runner's 383 Hipo and quite suprised at the lack of choices for repacement pistons. I want to keep the comression ratio as close to the original 10:1 as I can with the block now rebored .030 over. Anyone out there have a suggestion or two? I've heard that Keith Black KB400 might do the trick.

June 13, 2006

Can anyone give me the paint codes for plum crazy and the violet on a 1969 Road Runner horn?

The purple paint for the 1969 and later Road Runner horn is available from Year One. I don't know the actual number but is known as 30 deg. light purple. Plum Crazy was not offered on 1969 Road Runners.

June 13, 2006

How many different clutch sizes are there for a 1972 Plymouth Road Runner and how do you know what size it is with out removing it? 400 4-speed..Also some 72 Runners have braces under the hoods that run from the fenders to the upper center of the firewall my car has never had them...

June 10, 2006

I recently purchased a 1968 Plymouth Road Runner clone, sorry, I just could not afford the real thing. I purchased it knowing it was a clone, but for some reason the fender tag was not with the car. I am trying to gather as much info as posible, but I seem to be stuck on the build date and order number. I was told by a friend that the rad support number may help. The number I have found is (68R325703). Does this number translate to anything? Is there another number I should be looking for? The car is a 68 Satellite Sport

The number on the rad support, is part of the cars VIN. Your best bet is to find the Build Sheet. These are usually under one of the seats, some times under the carpet, headliner, or even behind the dash. But the seats are the usual place. This will tell you all about your car.

June 10, 2006

Can anyone tell me where I could purchase trunk extensions for a '71 Road Runner?

June 9, 2006

Does anyone know of a source that would have production history that would include a full description of each of the 28 426 Hemis with manual trannys that were built? By full description, I mean exterior/interior color, decals, spoilers etc. and any other options with which they were originally built. Thanks

June 6, 2006

Just droping a line thanks for all the help on instalation on the 440. I have another question. I am having a problem with vibration. Feels like it is comming from the drivetrain everything was fine until that happend. I wonder if it could be a bad u joint. I have a new clutch, trans mount, new motor mounts. The vibration is really noticeable when acellerating it feels like somthing is ready to let loose. I am leaving it sit. Me and my wallet has got to take a break. Any suggestions that don't cost a lot? I just want to drive the thing without anything going wrong. This a 1969 4 barrel 440 4 speed Road Runner. Peace out.

Does the engine have a cast crank or a forged steel crank? If it has a cast crank you'll need the fat (thick) harmonic balancer. If it has a forged crank you'll need the thin harmonic balancer. You'll definitely get vibration if you have the wrong harmonic balancer on the engine. Moving fron the engine to the drivetrain, inspect your rear ujoint saddle strap bolts and make sure they are all nice and tight. Also inspect the u-joints for play. If everything looks and feels ok then the problem is elsewhere.


Definitely check the U Joints, and make sure they are centered in the yokes. probably wouldn't hurt to double check the pressure plate bolts.


Get under there and firmly check your u joints, if there is any play replace it. If this doesnt work put the car up high and secure on stands, start it and put it in gear. Look at the drive shaft for any crookedness first at an idle, then have a friend speed it up till it vibrates looking for the shake.


Check also to make sure your yokes are "in phase" ie: facing the same direction and not 90 degrees out. Might help.

June 3, 2006

Bought a 1972 Plymouth Satellite. Out of this world restoration. Fantastic shape. I have a set of Cragar wheels 15X8. What size tires can I run on this type rim? 275/60-15? Please help. Have a car show next Sunday and want to get the tires ASAP. Tully

275-60R15' fit great. I have this exact combo on my 1969 Road Runner. 15"x8" Wheel with 275-60R15 BF Goodrich radials on the rear. They are 11" wide and look fantastic.

June 3, 2006

I am putting Elderbrock aluminum heads on my Road Runner and am trying to find torque specification for the intake manifold on a 1980 Chrysler 360 small block. Can you help? Thanks

Contact Elderbrock they should be able to help.

June 3, 2006

I have a 1973 Road Runner with a 400. I need help installing a tach. The green wire that goes on the - side of the coil does not work. The motor has electronic conversion on it. Does anyone know where I can hook it up to, or do I need to get an inductive tach? Thanks

Do you have an orange or hot wire on the tach? I have to run a power wire to my fuse box for my tach. Just curious. I know some of them do draw power from the neg. side of the coil also.


Not sure if about the colors, but one wire would go to the distributer side of the coil, one to the fuse box, and another to the box for a light.

May 31, 2006

Can anyone tell me what is the correct length for an oil dipstick on a 1969 Roadr Runner with a 383? Thanks

From the tip to the extruded flange is 21 3/4 inch.

May 27, 2006

I need help in decoding my engine
d440-1968
717833118 ?
10 2 HP ?
A ?
Thanks For the help! Also can a block be cast 9/29/67 but be stamped D400 to denote a 68? Mine is and it confuses me? Thanks Alan

May 26, 2006

I own a 1971 Plymouth Satellite with a Ralley Cluster and want to install an In-dash Tachometer where the Clock Bezel is currently located. Thanks, Alan

May 26, 2006

Hi. I have a 1972 Road Runner with a 440 and 727 tranny. I'm looking for new coolant lines to run and I've heard you could actually buy them in different colors. Does anyone know where you could find them. thanks

May 26, 2006

Anyone have a drawing or a pic of how the 2 cables for a '69 Road Runner airgrabber are hooked up? This is the one that has the louvers on the sides of the hood, not the pop-up in the center with the vacuum motor. The cable from inside the car goes to the passenger side louver arm, but then how do the two louvers hook together? My friend added one to his 440 Sixpack, and when they hook it up, one side closes when the other opens . . . the pic in th FSM is too small, and the text is not too helpful. Thanks, Mike Wingeier

May 25, 2006

I have purchased a 1970 Road Runner with air grabber for restoration. The wiring and vacuum lines were disconnected without proper identification. Where can I get the technical information on this vacuum system?

Click image for larger version.

This image comes from page 310 of the book, "Charger, Road Runner & Super Bee Restoration Guide" which can be purchased here at the RoadRunnerSite.com by clicking here.

May 23, 2006

Hi, does anybody have the bolt that attaches the back rest to the seat? It is about 3" long and it has a shaft for the seat to recline forward. This is for a 1969 b-body and the seats are buckets. If you have a spare or know where I can get one please contact me, Thank you!

May 23, 2006

How many different style door hinges were made for 1971 Road Runner. I have seen several ads and none said to be 71 look anything like my originals. Anyway too much money. I think mine are still good enough to weld and re-drill.

May 22, 2006

Can someone tell me what is the right bumper jack for my 1969 Road Runner? I know the hook ends with a 116. The jack and stand is what I am confused with. Does it look like a T or like a rectangle at the base? Help!!!!!

The shaft looks like a "T"


Here are some part numbers for you.
2201 009 -- Wrench or handle
2856 116 -- Hook
2808 641 -- Bar and base package less hook
2842 120 -- Retainer

May 22, 2006

I am looking at a 1969 Road Runner (a California car?) What do I need to look at to help me with price and whether or not to buy?

May 18, 2006

Hey, I have a 1972 Road Runner with 440 I want to replace my brake booster and all to clear up a little space and to clean it up a bit. Does anyone know where I can find a smaller one at? I'm also looking for a wiring diagram for it when I go to replace all the wiring.

Check with Master Power Brakes 1-888-249-9422 or www.mpbrakes.com to see about your booster. Check with Year One www.yearone.com or 1-800-YEAR-ONE for your wiring harness diagram.

May 18, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner which I am putting back together (someone else dismantled). I am looking for a manual that will show me all the body parts. The small stuff like1/4 glass regulator and all its pieces, the front fender inner pieces (plastic shields, insulation) is there one book that will give me all the info? Thanks for your help Joe.

What you need is a shop manual. search online using the phrase "shop manuals on cd" and you'll have more places to check out than you can shake a stick at. Make sure to get a real factory shop manual and not a Chilton's as the factory shop manual is more comprehensive.


A factory Plymouth service manual shows all of this. They can be had at shows for around $65, or repos on ebay for about the same money. Well worth it. It has wiring diagrams, body,engine, trans,etc.


I don't think a single book will do it. I have used a shop manual you can get at year one. Also available are parts interchange manuals and the best book I probably have is the charger, roadrunner, superbee restoration manual. These three books are musts, and will help you get that car back on the road.

May 17, 2006

Picture this:a 1972 Road Runner, chrome shining brightly, engine sleeping soundly begging for a new body a new chance at life she just wants to rule the road again...lol...hi y'all! my Road Runner is beat bad she was someones mad max mobile and I can't find quarter panels, those are are the main issue its in primer now, but there's 20 pounds of Bondo and fiberglass under that, this is literally the 19th (that I have saved under my favorites) site I have been to, I scoured this site and checked all the links and recomondations...I'm literally beating my head against a wall here, Year One doesn't have 'em, the Paddock doesn't have them...I ordered some from www.autobodyspecialt.com was put on a list and well they haven't gotten back to me and that was a year ago! Any help or leads would be great! Donavon and his sad broken bird

In regards to your question on body panels for you '72 runner; you're going to have to get used parts, as I'm sure you ahve figured out by now. There are a number of good sources. Pick up a Mopar Collector's Guide magazine and Mopar Muscle magazine as they have a good number of vendors who may have just what you are looking for. You can also check your local bookstore or this web site's store for Hemimings Motor News magazine as well. Remember, the '72 Satellite sheetmetal will fit your Road Runner.

May 13, 2006

I bought 2 motors from a guy he said they were 383's one was produced 1-30-69 the other 7-17-69 the cast stamp reads 2468 130 on both that does not check out to be a 383 a 383 should read 2568 130 can someone tell me what I have need to know before I can sell. Any help would be great thanks.

Go to mymopar.com. On their homepage, on the left side, select “downloads”. It will bring up a screen with many different sections of casting numbers such as engine blocks, heads, exhaust manifolds, etc. I looked and the closest casting number to yours was 2468 030 which is a 413 but I didn’t think Chrysler made a 413 after 65. As you stated, a 383 casting number is 2568 130 for the 1959-1971 model years. The only other 2468 number was 2468 330 which was the 426 hemi. Check the machined pad just under the distributor and see if you have any numbering there. Also check to see if there is raised machine pad just to the right (facing the engine) of the distributor and just in front of the valley pan hold-down straps. The 440 has its size punched into the pad, I’m not totally sure on the 413’s.


Not sure about the casting #s. But, looking at the front of the engines in front of the distributor, there is a machined surface at roughly a 45 degree angle. If it is a 383 or a 400, the numbers will be stamped on this pad. If it is a 440 (and maybe a 413 and a 426 wedge) there will be a machined pad in front of the intake manifold on the drivers side of the engine.


According to the Year One catalog #R1199, casting numbers on the block of 2468130 do indeed indicate a 383 cu. in. engine produced between 1959-1971. I don't know where you got the info saying 2568130 is for a 383 - this info is incorrect, nor does it apply to any Mopar big block or small block engine. You do indeed have 383 cu. in. engines.


I checked out your numbers on your block in the Charger, Roadrunner, Superbee restoration manual. It tells me that your numbers are correct for a 68 to 71 block. I then went to my mopar .com and they are showing the numbers you are saying the block should be. I would believe that the block is a 69 383.

May 12, 2006

What is the best way to change my Oil Pan gasket on my 1970 Road Runner w/383? The pan won't come out because of lack of space. So do I need to lift the motor or is there something else easier to take apart to get the pan out?

Drop the steering crossover link and you'll have room to drop the pan. Other than raising the engine its the only way to get the pan off. It isn't that difficult and its a whole lot less hassle than raising the engine.


You will need to un-bolt the motor mounts (single large bolt through each mount) and lift the motor several inches. The front pan bolts bolt into the timing cover and you will need room to slide the pan back to clear the oil pump pickup. You may also need to drop your center link (tie rod center section) and the bell housing cover plate. Depends on your car, the height of the motor, etc. Whatever you do, do it SAFELY. You will have your hands in places that if the engine should drop you’ll be in trouble.


Jack the front of the engine as far as possible , if it still has the windage tray you'll need all the space you can get. Its a real fumblefest to get it back together dealing with 2 gaskets , the windage tray, and getting this around the oil pickup. Though Ive only done this on a 69 it should be the same.

May 10, 2006

Hi, I have a 1968 Plymouth Road Runner and I'm trying to check all the VIN and body (radiator support and trunk rail number) can you guys help at all in identifying the body and VIN numbers, thanks again Ernie Mitchell Des Moines, Iowa.

This website has a VIN decoder on it’s home page.
Road Runner Site VIN Decoder

May 9, 2006

Hi again, firstly thanks for all the help last time. Can someone e-mail me a photo of the heater hose set up for a 1971 Satellite/Road Runner from the engine to the heater matrix, as the one on my car has been by passed. Also my car has the 318 engine with a single exhaust, my question is does any of the twin outlet engine exhausts fit without modification? Over in England there are few exhaust makers for American cars and hence the ones that do charge the Earth. It would be cheaper to buy an off the shelf exhaust and fit myself. Any advice is appreciated, thanks.

May 7, 2006

Is there a source out there that provides replacement rear quarter panels for 1973-74 Road Runners? The catalogue from Year One lists a couple of smaller repair panels for behind and ahead of the wheel wells. Complete quarters seem impossible to find. I'm willing to bet that as the more desirable years' Roadrunners get further away from availability and affordability to the average guy, the '73/'74 RR's will only become more valuable. Those that shun them as being "post muscle car" era will begin to take another look. Enough soap-box rantings....so how about it?

I would give Stephens Performance a try. I have a 1969 Road Runner and although they make just about all the body panels new I couldn't find front fenders new. I got fenders from these guys that looked new. A bit pricy but you get what you pay for and a lot was saved because they didn't have to repair so-so fenders in the body shop. They are located in Alabama. I try and stick with the southern yards. Good luck.


Try Western people as well. I found a pair of front fenders for my 1969 for $100 each in beautiful shape. I had a 1973 340 4 speed Road Runner, was my first mopar. the post 1971 Road Runners are great cars, and one of the few cheap mopars to have.

May 7, 2006

I need a re-chromer for metal and plastic, just getting a good run on a 1971 Road Runner. Also, a parts supplier that has prices better then Year One, which is awfully high. This is my first B-body, most everything is there, need a few small items to put it back original. THANK YOU

I used CV Vacuum Platers Inc. for my plastic parts. They did a beautiful job. They are in Canada but their shipping address is Washington State. Check the web under Chrome Platers and take your choice. As with anything, you get what you pay for. The price for plating is very wide as is the quality of their work. As far as restoration parts go, you are not going to see a big price difference between Year One, Jim’s Auto Parts, Jack’s, Layson’s, the Paddock, etc. All are about the same in pricing, you can shop between companies but you are not going to see a lot of difference. If you are careful, sometimes you can get a good deal on Ebay but you need to know what the prices are from a restoration house before bidding. I have seen prices go much higher than what you can purchase directly from a parts house.


Look in Mopar Muscle magizine, several in there. But it takes forever , had some plastic done this winter and took 8 weeks.

May 6, 2006

I have a 1969 Satellite 2-door ht with 318. The fuel gauge has stopped working. Is the sending unit for the gauge in the gas tank? Can you repair/replace without dropping the tank?

The sending unit is in the gas tank. And you do have to drop the tank to get to it. it's pretty easy, but it's better if you drain the gas out of the tank.It lightens the tank up.


You do not need to remove the tank to take out the sending unit, I have a 1969 Road Runner and have done it. Use a small block of wood and a hammer to turn the locking ring to avoid sparks.

May 3, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner All original Numbers matching car. It needs to be completly Restored, but overall it is in not bad shape. I have all of the origial parts and running gear including the original 383 and auto transmission. The body is in decent shape (besides some rust above the wheel wells on the back quarter panels. It would need body work and the interior redone. I have the motor and tranny getting rebuilt right now. Yesterday a guy offered to buy the car. How much is a car like this worth?

I'd say at least $3000-$7000 from your description. Don't sell unless you're sure. A numbers matching Road Runner with a fairly solid body is getting harder to find. I have people asking me about mine once in a while. Interior under construction, primer, nice body. I say no, they ask again, I say "$10,000 w/o the engine and 4 speed." They say "you won't get that" I say": I told you I didn't want to sell."

May 2, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner that I am restoring. It is a matching numbers car with the all of the original parts including the original engine. When I purchased the the car the engine was turquoise blue, but underneath the turquoise paint there was a bright orange paint. I was wondering if anyone knew what color or shade of orange the block was from the factory?

The 383 engines in 1969 were the “Hemi” orange color unless they had air conditioning and then they were the Turquoise color. Most any of the restoration suppliers such as Year One have the paint. You can also get the original Mopar paint through your local Mopar dealership.


All non-a/c engines were painted Hemi Orange. You can get this paint from a number of sources but the best I have found is by Restomotive Laboratories, makers of POR-15. Their engine paints are highly resistant to solvents (like card cleaners), and really last. A/C cars had turquoise engines. Once again, Restomotive Labs has the color you will need. You can also get spray cans of the proper color paints from your local Mopar Performance dealer also.

May 2, 2006

I have two questions, so bear with me. First, I am wondering if the cast, 5 spoke road wheel (I believe they are Magnum 500s) are the same as what Ford put on some of its Mustangs. I can find plenty of the Ford wheels. Second, my 1969 383 Road Runner suddenly won't start. I was told that if I arced across some relay on my firewall, and it fired, then it was a bad solenoid. I did this, and it fired. I have also been told it could be a resistor on the firewall. As you can tell, I am very very mechanically declined, so any help you may give me must be very low tech. Any help is very very much appreciated. Clay Fees

Your problem is not the solenoid. The solenoid is integrated into the starter. The problem is most like the starter relay. This is the part you are arcing across and is mounted on the firewall. Older starter relays were self-grounding but newer ones have an extra pin that needs to have a wire run from it to ground. If the starter solenoid were bad the engine would not crank no matter if you arced the two posts on the starter relay or not because the solenoid is built into the starter. Now, if you are arcing the two posts on the starter and it kicks over you may have a bad starter solenoid. If you are looking for replacement Magnum 500 wheels, look for a company called Wheel Vintiques. They have them. All chrome Magnum 500's were correct for 1968 but in 1969 Chrysler went to a wheel with an aluminum trim ring. If you want those, Wheel Vintiques may have them or try Year One www.yearone.com.


I assume when you say it will not fire is you mean that the engine will not crank over. The relay you are talking about is the starter relay. When you jumper the relay as you did, you are simply by-passing the interior ignition switch. The starter relays purpose is to apply 12 volts to the starter solenoid that is on top of your starter. The solenoid then engages the starter motor which then turns the flywheel which turns the engine so it can fire. The starter relay is engaged when you turn you ignition switch to the start position. In summary, the ignition switch picks up the firewall starter relay, which engages the starter solenoid, which engages the starter motor, and at the same time the starter bendix engages the flywheel and your engine cranks over. The only suggestion I can make is to reach under the dash, behind the ignition switch and make sure the large wire connector plug is pushed on the ignition switch completely. Beyond that, it will take some electrical troubleshooting to find the problem. The resistor you are talking about is the white ignition ballast resistor which is located just to the left (facing the engine) of the wiper motor and voltage regulator on the firewall. Its purpose is to limit the amount of voltage that goes to your ignition coil AFTER the engine cranks and fires. It has nothing to do with the cranking over of your engine. If the engine cranks over but does not fire, then that’s a different problem.


Also check and make sure you have not unpluged any wires on that starter relay.

May 1, 2006

I want to changer over points to electronic ignition wiring for 1970 Plymouth Road Runner. Need a wiring diagram.

I have used the Mopar Performance "orange" box kits in both my cars. Great for street applications and retaining an original look. The kit comes with the distributor, ballast resistor, control box, necessary wiring kit, and the wiring diagram. I would also recommend using the "blue" mopar performance plug wires with the kit. They are well made, numbered, and are pre-assembled and fit very nicely.I use Mancini Racing. They seem to be the most reasonable for pricing and will be happy to answer any questions you may have.

Apr. 30, 2006

I have an 1970 Road Runner with air grabber. The air grabber system would take about 3 miles of driving before it would open. Now it will not open. How do I troubleshoot the system to find the problem?

If memory serves - these are vacuum operated. Check you vacuum lines and if they are ok you may have a bad vacuum diaphragm somewhere in the system. In that case you'll need to check with Year One (www.yearone.com) to see if they have a replacement.

Apr. 29, 2006

I found a numbers matching 1969 GTX that needs a total restoration. It has buckets and 4 speed but he wants $5,000. Good deal?

That depends highly on how much rust there is and how much it will take to restore it. There were only a little more than 18,000 GTX's made in 1969 so if you have found a decent one then by all means snag it.


What do you mean by TOTAL resto? Body panels, floors, driveline rebuild? If the frames, floors and body is in solid condition, and the car is complete, then I'd say $5,000 is a good price.

Apr. 28, 2006

Can someone help me with tire size. I am looking to put cragar ss wheels on my 1969 Road Runner. The 15x7 has a 4 1/8 back space the 15x8 has a 4 1/4 back space. I would like to keep the same height and not get too close to the wheel well. Thanks Joe

This subject has been dealt with in previous posts. 15"x8" will work fine on the rear. I run 15x8 Magnum 500's with 275-60R15 B.F. Goodrich radials without problems.

Apr. 28, 2006

Thanks for the 1972 Satellite 'B' engine swap info. You're right, if you look hard enough there is a lot of info on the web. In search for a decent 'B' I found a 400 right under my nose. I finally got access to the 2 parts cars (both Satellite Sebring 'plus') thrown in with the purchase of the 72 Satellite, popped the air grabber hood on one, and there it was. Engine, trans and floor shifter. Just what I wanted. My question now is, what's the deal with the 400. Even in the PAW Chysler parts catalog there is not a lot of reference to the 400. I found a site which listed the 400 for this year as 190hp, but it also stated that the 400 can be turned into a high output engine. I came across 'B'/'BR' parts interchange and it seems I have all of the perfomance part options as the 383 or 440. Is the 400 worth putting a good deal of $$ into or should I hold out for a different 'B'/'BR'?

The 400 is a fine engine. It was just a smog replacement for the 383 in 1972 and had a lower compression ratio. You can beef it up as much as you like. The 400 is also a very sought after engine for stroking. With a bigger bore than a 440 it makes a great stroker engine. Many places (see Mopar Muscle magazine for one) sell the kits to make your 400 a 451 or more. Don't let anyone tell you a 400 is a junk piece.

Apr. 27, 2006

Restoring a 1972 Satelitte....I can find 1970 quarter panels will they work for a 72?

Sorry. 1971 saw a major restyling of the B-Body line. 1970 parts will not work with 1971 models. 1970 was a unique year, although similar to the 68-69 the rear quarters were for 1970 only. If you can find a '72 rear quarter you can make that work, just be aware the side marker may be a bit different than a '71.

Apr. 24, 2006

I am restoring a 1970 Road Runner, it currently has a column shifter (auto), I am converting it to a floor shifter (auto). I purchased a supposed 4spd steering column from a salvage yard, however it seems to have a lever on bottom of the steering column (steering box end) which seems to be for transmission linkage. I pointed this out to the guy at the salvage yard, he told me the column in question was from a 1970 b-body, and chrysler only made (2) different types of steering columns in 1970, one with the shift indicator (auto-column) and one for floor shift/4-spd cars. The lever on the bottom (according to him) is supposed to be on all 1970 steering columns. Is the salvage guy correct?

The column you have is for a 3 speed, I think. Have a 1970 Road Runner myself, and went thru the same thing. Also, the column is different for the power and manual steering.

Apr. 24, 2006

Hi all, does anyone know where I can get production figures for my 73 Road Runner? I'd like to know how many were produced, how many with 400s and how many vinyl roof.

As has been stated many times in this website, check with Galen Govier. @ http://www.gvgovier.com/ . He is the guru of all things Mopar. Also, this website has books for sale, one is the Dodge and Plymouth Muscle Car Red Book. It will give you the production numbers.

Apr. 23, 2006

I have a 1972 Plymouth Satelitte that I'm trying to restore. One, are the Satelitte and Road Runner quarter panels interchangable? Two, where can I get new sub-frame parts?

The 1/4 panels, and other body parts are the same. If your are looking for frame rails, check moparts.org, or the classifieds in Mopar Collecters Guide. Lots of frame parts.

Apr. 21, 2006

I'm trying to restore a 1971 Road Runner. It has R26 on the fender tag which decodes AM radio w/cassette is that right? Also, on the passenger front fender there is a Chrysler symbol should there be one on the drivers side? Any info would be great thanks.

R26 in 71 was AM Radio w/cassette.
LOL I didn't think cassettes were around then, I had an 8 track.
Right front fender is a pentastar symbol, you can read about it on the chrysler sites only right fender.

Apr. 20, 2006

Anyone switch their stock Road Runner to 3.91 gears from 3.23? I have stock tire size F70-14 with original 4 speed. I take the highway occasionally and want to make sure it still has good drivability. Should I go with the 3.55 gears instead? What reasonable top speed should I expect?

If you are planning on highway use I'd recommend the 3.55 gearset. My car was originally equipped with 3.55's and a Sure Grip and it ran very well. I damaged the yoke and had to switch out to a 3.23 Sure Grip setup which is ok but I miss my 3.55's. Unless you have a large expanse of empty road I wouldn't be too concerned about top speed. It depends on a lot of things - not just gearing. But if the engine is more or less stock and you have the tires for it you should see around 120 mph, give or take, with the 3.55's.


I had a '69, 440/727 w/ 3/91s. It sounded tached out at 55-60. At the same time I had a '68 Charger,4 gear w/ 3.23s. Nice cruiser on the highway. Do 70+ with no strain. The '69 road runner I have no is a 440 4 gear that I put 3.55s in. Nice middle ground between the .55 and .23s.

Apr. 20, 2006

If I bought a1968 Road Runner excellent condition and added a Hemi engine would this increase the value of the car? Since the engine it now has is a 383 & cost $24,000. How much would it be worth with the Hemi?

Hemi clone cars are worth a god bit of money if they are done right. If all you did was plop a Hemi in it without upgrading the fuel system, suspension and transmission it won't be as valuable as if you did your homework and made it right. Still, it'll be worth more than $24,000.

Apr. 18 2006

Trying to decide on a intake for a stock 383 Road Runner, with a mild cam. Decided to go with an Edelbrock Thunder Series 650cfm AVS carb. Which intake would be a good match? Mopar performance 383, Edelbrock performer 383 or an Edelbrock torquer 383. Will the Edelbrock carb bolt onto a mopar performance intake with out an adapter. Cars is used only to cruise. Thanks

Use either the Mopar Performance dual plane aluminum intake or the Edelbrock Performer which is also a dual plane intake. The reason for this is because dual plane intakes make more torque in the lower rpm range than single plane intakes. I have run the Torker 383 and it is a decent intake, but I think my first choice would be the Mopar intake - simply because it is almost identical to the stock cast iron intake but actually has been redesigned internally a bit to produce more hp than the original. It will also fit perfectly with no hood clearance issues. As you said it the car will be mostly just a cruiser and if that is the case you'll want good throttle response, smooth cruising capabilities and good power when you want/need to tromp it. I think the Mopar Performance dual plane intake will fill those requirements rather nicely, especially with your Edelbrock AVS.

Apr. 17, 2006

I have a 1973 Road Runner. It has heavy damage on the right side front fender and rear right querter panel. I was wondering if there are any other years that share the same size and shape fenders? Also if any other years share size and shape for the rear querter panel? I would like to replace them, but it is hard to find a 73-74 Satellite/Road Runner fenders. Thanks for the help. Mark

No fenders or quarters from anything else will fit 73/74 b-bodies. The worst thing about this situation is that companies like Year One could care less. I asked them if they planned to manufacture these, and they told me that the stamps or molds to make rear quarters for these would cost them like $70,000 PER SIDE! They told me they don't feel current demand warrants that kind of expenditure. I disagree, I think there's a lot of these out there waiting for quarters. Unfortunately, your only option is to find decent examples from a parts car or boneyard like they have in Arizona.

Apr. 14, 2006

Hi again all. Ok, I will be buying the 1973 Road Runner listed below. The car has the original 400. The differential assembly looks similar to a Ford 9" (can I say Ford here?). Is it A 9 1/4? Sure Grip? I don't know how to tell. Also, I know you could get louvers on the rear window of 1971-72 Road Runners. Does anyone make these aftermarket, and will they also fit 1973-74? Thanks for any help. Greg

Your car is most likely equipped with an 8-3/4" rear end. It is very sinilar in appearance to the Ford 9". The differences between the Mopar 8-3/4" and 9-1/4" are as follows: The 9-1/4" uses a rear cover, the attaching bolts of which can be seen from the rear of the car. The gears have to be swapped in and out through the back cover. The 8-3/4" has no attaching cover, rather it utilizes a "pumpkin" design. The center section or "pumpkin" is bolted up at the front of the housing. The "pumpkin" design is superior in that it is easily interchanged for another "pumpkin" making gear swapping infinitely easier, especially if the original rear axle bearings are swapped for the newer "green" bearings. The "green" bearings eliminate the need for axle end play adjustment once the axles are pulled so that the center section "pumpkin" can be replaced. All you have to do once the "green" bearings are installed is pull the axles, unbolt and remove the center section, replace the center section with a different one with stiffer or looser gears and reinstall the axles. This whole process can be done in about 1-1.5 hours if you work fast.


If it unloads from the front its a Chrysler 8 3/4 ". Jack the rearend up from the middle, take the tranny out of gear and spin one of the rear tires, if the other spins the same direction it has somesort of posi.

Apr. 14, 2006

I am currently restoring a 1972 Road Runner and need a patch panel for my rear driver side. I tried Autobodyspecialt.com with negative results. Can anyone point me in the right direction to find a patch panel?

Have you tried Year One? I know they don't make patch or quarter panels for 73 or 74 b-bodies, but for some reason I think they make them for yours.


Try www.rustrepair.com

Apr. 13, 2006

Does anyone know if all 1969 Road Runners with 383's came with HP blocks, including A/C cars? I have heard that A/C cars did not come with HP blocks. Is this true? Thanks

Apr. 13, 2006

I am restoring a 1969 #s matching 4 speed Road Runner. I am replacing the inner fender wells and the radiator support. The radiator support was missing and the fender wells were so bad I cannot use them for reference measurements. I need to locate an old crash manual to help me with the specs. I could find a guy with a nice car already finished and hope he lets me measure his car up for my needs, but a manual or spec chart would be nice. Any help would be appreciated.

Apr. 12, 2006

Hi all, I am looking at a 73 Road Runner for sale. The car has a vinyl roof and no stripes. My question is, did the vinyl roof make the car stripe delete, or was it stripes down the sides that stopped where the vinyl started?

Apr. 11, 2006

Hi I have a 1968 Satellite, it is a 318 with the 904, I had the tailshaft bushing and yoke replaced by a tranny shop and balanced the driveshaft. Now a year and a half later, and only 3200 mi its starting to vibrate a little, so I checked the u joints front one is good, rear had some play, and the yoke is and rough, what do you think may have happend? (fluid has always been new!) Thank you Jim

If its only vibrating a little, and the rear u joint is a little loose, change it first. Believe me it dont take much looseness in a u joint to make a vibration.

Apr. 9, 2006

I have a 1972 Satellite I am making into a Road Runner clone, it's cheaper than buying an original, and no one will get irritated when it's not "original". Anyways, I need help correctly locating the decals on the body. In particular the roof stripe, side "Road Runner" emblems, and trunk lid Road Runner. If you have web sites, documents etc. that would be great. Thanks for any help.

Apr. 9, 2006

I found a good 1970 4 speed transmission crossmember for my GTX, but I need the correct bolts. Can anyone descibe what the bolt specs are and maybe I can get some from an auto parts store?

Apr. 9, 2006

I purchased a 1969 Road Runner and plan to restore to complete original. I have the factory build sheet and fender tag, they both match but the engine is in question. I can't find a stamp with the VIN to match the 383, I have checked the usual places, lower rail etc. The block pad next to the distributor reads C 383, below it 11 9 2, What does the C stand for and what do each of the other 3 digits stand for? I also found a riveted tag on the block, just below the pass head. I suppose it was factory rebuilt? What do the rebuild tags usually say or identify? My other question is the VIN and color code options are all X9, X9, X9, Does anyone know how many special order triple black 1969 Road Runners were built? I know I should have it decoded by GTS service, but don't have the capitol at this time.

Apr. 9, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner M Code and the fender tags shows the A-12 engine upgrade to 440 6 pack with hemi four speed and dana 60 rear etc. Also on the bottom of the fender tag, is E-63 which is a 383 CID 4BC and D32 which is a 3 speed automatic A727 transmission. According to what I have researched the A-12 option group supercedes the E63 and D32 codes, am I correct or not? Thank you Doug

Apr. 9, 2006

Hello all, what is the widest tire I can run on my 1969 Road Runner, I would like to go to a 10" rim in the rear 8" front. Has anyone found a good combo, they have tried. or know works, including back spacing? I dont want to buy rims and tires I can't use. I don't want to tub or move springs. I know someone out there has stuffed big wheels under their Road Runner. Thanks for any info.

I am running 15"x8" on the rear with stock backspacing (4.5" I believe) 275-60R-15 tires (28.5" tall) and they fit perfectly. These tires ar 11" wide. You'll need to be very careful with wheels any wider than that I would think. You might try a 4" backspacing, but then you are going to have problems at the wheelwell lip. All I can tell you is take some measurements and try to test fit a wheel on it to see how it fits.

Apr. 8, 2006

i have a 1972 Road Runner only one wheel spins. Has anybody changed out their differential and if so what you go with and where did you get?

That depends. If the rear end is an 8-3/4" you can get Sure grip units from a number of places or you can get complete new center sections with your choice of gears and a Sure Grip unit for anywhere from $900-$1100. Grab the latest copy of Mopar Muscle, Mopar Action or Mopar Collector's guide for vendors who deal in rear-end rebuilding/sales. You'll have a few good places to choose from.

Apr. 8, 2006

Does anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram (dash) for a 1969 Road Runner?

You can by a repo wiring diagram from Year One, for under $20 if I remember correctly. I got mine from them and it's been a big help. If you can't find one, email me, and for the cost of mailing a manilla envelope ( and a pic of your runner!) I'll send you a copy of mine.

Apr. 7, 2006

Has anyone seen a 1969 Road Runner fitted with factory a/c combined with a fresh air hood? Need to know if these two options together were possible. If so what was the engine color? Thanks for the info.

If I remember correctly that fresh air package was not available with a/c because the stock compressor was so large it couldn't be fitted with the fresh air ducting. As to the engine color - all a/c 383 road runners came with the turquoise color engines. I know for a fact, according to Galen Govier (see his web address poated on the bulletin board in prior posts), that the 4 speed 383 road runners came with the 330hp 383 - not the 335hp 383. This is probably true of automatic equipped cars as well. Check with Galen about the a/c, fresh air combo - he should know if these options were available together.

Apr. 4, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner. I have the windshield out and I was wondering if there are supposed to be drain holes near the lower corners of the windshield on the body?

Yes, there should be a drain hole on each side.

Apr. 4, 2006

I am purchasing a 1972 Satellite with a 318 and 3-spd auto trans. I want to drop in a 383 or a 440. I get mixed opinions on the complexity of such a swap. Some say 'no problem' and others say 'big problems'. What are my 'problems' (opportunities)? I'm sure I'm not re-inventing the wheel here!

Use the mounts from Schumacher Creative Services (http://www.engine-swaps.com/) and it will be easy. You won't even have to swap k-members. All you have to be concerned about is if your headers will fit (if you use them). Get tti headers (expensive but well worth it) and you should be good to go.


You will need a big block transmission, its a different pattern than the small block.

Apr. 3, 2006

I have owned a 1968 Road Runner with 383HP/4speed/3:23 for about 6 years and have been doing a slow restoration ( the interior is finally done!). This was bought as a #'s matching car and I have matched all #'s on the motor but cannot find the VIN # anyware. I have read it should be on the rail near the oil pan on the drivers side near the motor mount but there are no stampings there. In my year one book it says the # should be on the upper rear of the block for an early '68. I've had my mirror there 100 times but can't find a single #. Am I in the wrong place? This car was a very worn but very original car and I have no reason to think it isn't #'s matching but would sleep better being 100% sure.

If you can't find the number there try looking on the lower part of the engine just above the oil pan on the driver's side near the engine mount location. The numbers will be stamped into a small pad (about 0.1" high). If the engine is dirty use some carb spray and a toothbrush to clean it up.


I looked for my VIN stamping while the engine was in the car but could never find it. While the motor was out and the block was back from the machine shop from being vatted, I finally found the number. Mine was on the block, just behind the driver side head, on the bell housing rail. There is other ID information on a machined pad just under the distributor. It should have information like 383, D (stands for 68) HP 2 which shows that it is the High Performance engine just for the Road Runners and the block date such as 4 2 68. As an additional note, the machined pad on the passenger side of your 4-speed should also have the vin number. There will be a group of first numbers such as PP833 XXXXXXXX XXXXX.. The PP is for the New Process plant, the 833 is the transmission type, the remaining numbers are the build date code base on Chrysler’s Julian calendar number system. The last 4 are the build number that particular day. Normally your VIN number will also be on that pad.

Apr. 2, 2006

I want to convert my column shift to a slap stick in the factory console, If anyone has done this before or has info this would be great. My car is a 1971 Road Runner with a 727 trans. Thanks!

Apr. 1, 2006

Can anyone tell me where to find 1968 rr Hemi hood call outs original or repop don't matter. Thanks Glenn

Try Year One. www.yearone.com
or The Paddock www.paddockparts.com

Mar. 31, 2006

How many 1968 Hemi Road Runners in Bronze were produced? Thanks

As has been stated many times in this website, check with Galen Govier. @ http://www.gvgovier.com/ . He is the guru of all things Mopar. Also, this website has books for sale, one is the Dodge and Plymouth Muscle Car Red Book. It will give you the production numbers.

Mar. 30, 2006

Do the buckets seat for a 1970 Road Runner have the same frame & rails/track as the 1970 Charger???

The seats are the same, except for the covering. the tracks are the same also.

Mar. 30, 2006

I recently swapped out a 340 with a 440. The 340 ran very well when I took it out. Now that I have put it into another car, it acts like there is a major timing issue. I have triple checked the timing, wires, swapped out the coil and distributor. The engine starts but has no power, runs very rough and won't idle. When I shut the motor down I see fuel vapors coming out of the carburetor. I have checked for vacuum leaks and find none. If I disconnect a major vacuum line, it does not affect how the engine runs. I have also replaced the base plate and gaskets under the carb. A real mystery. Any ideas???

It sounds like a major vacuum leak. What carb are you using? Make sure all ports are plugged and all manifold openings are plugged. Sorry to sound so elementary but I've left off vacuum lines more often than I'd like to admit.


What carb do you have? I have seen MANY of the Carter ThermoQuad carbs have similar problems when the metering rods stick open. It will cause major flooding. If they stick shut then the engine runs fine at idle but has no power when the throttle is applied. Also, make sure you have the proper 3-5 psi fuel pressure. Don’t forget the distributor timing sequence is reverse that of the 440.


Check for a cracked spark plug insulator, run the engine in the dark and see if you can locate an ark or pull off each spark plug wire one at a time to see if it makes a difference in how it runs. The one that does not make a difference is the guilty party could be plug or wire.

Mar. 29, 2006

Anybody know the correct engine paint color for a 1969 Road Runner 383 with factory a/c? Can anybody recommend a good carb for a stock 383. Which would you recommend Holley or Edelbrock?

Factory a/c equipped came with engines painted turquoise. The High Perf non a/c engines were orange. I have owned both a/c and non a/c equipped road runners. Factory equipped a/c road runners came with the 330 hp engines as opposed to the 335 hp engines of the non a/c equipped cars.
On the question of the carb - the Edelbrock carbs work well. I'm not sure if the Thunder AVS comes in a size below 800cfm. If so I would highly recommend that carb. If not then go with the AFB style Edelbrock carb in a 650 cfm size for a stock 383.


I am fairly sure of my answer. All 68 Road Runners had the Turquoise engines. In 69, the 383 Road Runners went to the Hemi Orange (Magnum) color but my restoration books mention that the air conditioned cars still had the Turquoise color. There are several books available on this website that detail that kind of information.
As for an aftermarket carb, I personally like the Edelbrock. If your car is fairly original, there is nothing wrong with the original Carter AVS carb. I have run them for years with great success.

Mar. 27, 2006

I have a few questions about about my 440. What would be the best head to go with for a 1977 440. I know it's not a great engine because its a smog engine, but I had the engine hound and I stripped all stock parts from the crankshaft up and went to performance and I know the heads are great for the blower kit I plan to put on. So would it be best to buy new heads (which ones then) or to have it port and polished? Thanks

Mar. 26, 2006

I am needing information on all options and standard imenitys concerning a 1970 Plymouth GTX. I am cloning a Satelite to a GTX and I want to do it properly. If you could give me that information or a web site or a person for that information it would be awsome! I want to do the best job possible and create a show winning car. I raelize that a Mopar has to be done a certain way and that is why I am seeking your professional advise. Thanx for any and all help.

Mar. 26, 2006

Does anybody know how many pinstripe options came on a 1969 Road Runner? My car has the code for the pinstripe, however, it had been taken off before I had purchased it. I have seen others with the pinstriping and they seem to have a small stripe on the bottom and a large one on top. I can still make out where their was a stripe on the car. I am sure it is correct, but it is just a small line that runs about an inch down on the pannels. My car is F5 lime light green mtlic. So here is another question. Should the stripe be white or black?

Mar. 25, 2006

Hi, I just purchaced a 1973 Road Runner, did the plum crazy color come stock on this year bird? Thanks Joe.

Mar. 24, 2006

I have a 1973 Road Runner w/bench seat, I need to replace it, can I replace it with buckets? If yes, where can I buy the seats and if not where can I get replacement bench seat? Thanks Sam

Mar. 23, 2006

What shade of black was the dash frame on a 1974 Road Runner? Gloss black, semi gloss, flat black or another shade?

Mar. 23, 2006

Hi everyone. I just purchased a 1972 Plymouth Sattelite Sebring with following Vin RH23G2R201944 for $500 the car shows only 46359 miles on the odometer and the title shows 39410 actual miles when last registered just wanted to know if this is a good buy? It's pretty solid only one little rust spot on the driverside floorpan which I found when I checked where the moisture came from under the carpet also want to know if a 1973 Road Runner hood will fit a 1972 Sattelite Sebring? any answers are greatly appreciated. Andy in VA

Yes, a good buy for sure, any 2 door Mopar of that vintage in any kind condition of good parts car or better yet like yours, a good project start is worth over the $500!

Mar. 21, 2006

Can you buy a complete frame for the front or rear of 1969 Road Runner? Or, is it even possible to replace them?

The Road Runner is a uni-body car. That means the frame is part of the body. The only removable part of the frame is the K member. That is what the engine sits on. New frame sections can be welded in. Common problem areas are the rear crossmember or the Torsion mounts. Auto Rust Technicians have all the necessary parts. The website is http://autorust.com/. You will find all you need for the frame there.


You can buy good used frame rails, for under $200 each. I'm not sure if new complete rails are offered yet. I know that you can get sections for repair. With the value of mopars going up, having frame repair is getting common.

Mar. 18, 2006

I see that the production figures for the 1969 hardtops according to options were broken down a few posts ago, and wondered it anyone had that same info for the 1968 Road Runners? I have found a 1968 Road Runner with a wide array of what I would think of as rare options. It is a hardtop model, has the deluxe green and white interior (in a SS1 yellow car), factory tach, factory in dash 8-track player, power steering, power disc brakes, A/C, and it is also a 4 speed.

As has been stated many times in this website, check with Galen Govier. @ http://www.gvgovier.com/ . He is the guru of all things Mopar. Also, this website has books for sale, one is the Dodge and Plymouth Muscle Car Red Book. It will give you the production numbers.

Mar. 17, 2006

Can some one tell me if I have a Road Runner? The VIN # is RP23F8E104576 it has a 383 I think, did they stamp their motors to be able to ID them? The car has bucket seats with colum shift, the tag on the fender = 8 1 p6f ss1 rp23 41 533 907 158368 any help please

You have the 104576th 1968 Plymouth Sport Satellite, 2 door hartop, with a 318.


In addition to the answer above, small blocks (318, 340, 360) have the distributor in the rear behind the carb. Big Blocks have the distributor in the front (361, 383,400, 426, 440) On a 68 383, there is a machined boss on the block under the distributor. The engine codes are there. In addition, the VIN number is on the block, drivers side just behind the cylinder head on the bell housing flange. Most all of the restoration books available on this website will help in determining what you have and how to identify it.

Mar. 16, 2006

Hey I just purchased a 1969 Road Runner I was wondering if there is a site that can give me the production numbers. Hopefully a site that can tell me how many in each color, engine. THANX for any help.

As has been stated many times in this website, check with Galen Govier. @ http://www.gvgovier.com/ . He is the guru of all things Mopar. Also, this website has books for sale, one is the Dodge and Plymouth Muscle Car Red Book. It will give you the production numbers.

Mar. 14, 2006

I recently bought a 1970 Road Runner, however the hood was not striped. I am trying to find the measuremnets for the hood stripes, from the edge of the hood, how wide the 2 small stripes are, and how wide the center stripe is. I thank you very much for this information. PS, I know that I can get these measurements at a car show, however I live on the MS Gulf Coast and we were hit very hard by Hurricane Katrina, and all of our local car shows have been cancelled. Thanks Again, Eddie

Mar. 13, 2006

What color is an H4R interior for a 1968 Road Runner?

Red, available only on hardtops (no post).

Mar. 11, 2006

Sorry to trouble you, but having looked at this site, I've noted it's one of the best. Can anyone help? I'm from across the pond and have just bought a 1971 Satellite. I'm stripping it down for a respray, and I'm stuck on how to remove the instrument cluster, it's the type with the large horizontal speedo with the heater controls on the left hand side.I've unscrewed all the visible retaining screws, but it still won't come far enough forward to detach the speedo cable etc. Any help appreciated.

Never worked on a 1971, but on the earlier Mopars, you have to unhook the speedometer cable and the main wiring plug from behind. After this you should be able to pull the cluster out far enough to undo the amp gauge wires.

Mar. 9, 2006

I have 1969 Road Runner that I purchased about a year ago. It is a 383 with bucket seats and a console automatic shift with A/C. I found the build sheet under the back seat it did come with A/C and it is a no's matching car. I would like to find out how many production 1969 Road Runners came with Factory A/C. It also has the window decal on the car that says Air Temp Air Cond. Is this really a rare option?

Congrats on finding such a nice car! Yes the a/c option is pretty rare as most Road Runners weren't built with "creature comforts" but for speed. Here is a breakdown of options for the Road Runner hardtop (rool down rear windows). You'll have to contact Galen for these numbers if you have a coupe (sedan - fixed pop out rear windows with a post between front and rear window). I have posted Galen's contact info on this bulletin board many, many times. Scroll down 'til you find it.

According To Galen Govier Production figures for the Road Runner hardtop are as follows:

Mar. 9, 2006

Please let me know what needs to be done in order to install 1972 Road Runner front bumper and grille on my 72 Charger. I also need to convert colomn shifter to stick shift. Where is best place to locate parts. 914-447-1623

Mar. 9, 2006

Does anyone know anything about the 440s produced in 1977. I have a 1972 Road Runner and when I began to restore the engine, which I though was original I discovered it was a 1977 440. Thanks.

Not a real good engine to start with if you plan to punish it a little, and who doesn’t. The 77 440’s were smog engines, low compression, poor heads, cast crank (externally balanced), mild cam, etc. Not to say you can’t make it run but you may want to consider a 440 from 66 to 71 as a starting point. They had forged cranks, good heads and cam, windage trays, etc. Even the stock intakes, carbs and exhaust were not bad.

Mar. 8, 2006

Did 1968 or 1969 GTX Road Runners come with front bench seat or buckets only?

I believe the 68 GTX was available with either bench or bucket seats. The 68 Road Runner was available with the bench seat only. I think the 69 GTX or Road Runner was available with either.

Mar. 7, 2006

Hey y'all I'm kinda new to the muscle car craze. I have found an old car that I have to have. I know its a Plymouth and my dad has seen this car and told me its a Road Runner. I also know from some reserch that its a 1969. It has been converted to a Drag car. I don't know if it has been tubed or not but there is plenty of sponser stickers on the side. I also know some one that used to run a drag strip that recalls seeing the car there in its prime. It looks as if it hasen't run since the late 70's or 80's, but it has the 440 six pack in it. The windows in it have been poped out and not busted, but it has set in the weather for a while. There is lots of rust, but over all the body dosen't look as if it has major bondo or damage from wrecks. I am going to graduate from college this spring and would love this to be my graduation gift. I need to know some figures on what to expect as far as buying this car. The owner dosen't even know I have been eye balling his car, but I know some of his friends. Any information would be great. Please e-mail me. Thanks, Andy

Mar. 6, 2006

Hi guys This is a great site. Two years ago I made a trade with my brother, my wrestling mats for his 1973 Road Runner. It has a 440 with a 727 trans all numbers seem to match. I would like to restore the car, but its in bad shape. My question is how can you tell if you have GTX? I was told that if you bought a Road Runner new in 1973 and it had a 440 it was a GTX. True or false? My VIN is RM21U3G266990. Who got the better deal me or my brother my mats were worth 2000.00?

The 2nd letter M in 73 did signify GTX. Unless it is in exceptionally poor shape it should be worth 2g even if just for usable parts if its complete.


Hard to really say without seeing pics of your car, but consider this. You can buy those mats anytime. How often can you still buy a new 1973 road runner? Unless it is totally a falling apart rust bucket, I'd say you made out.


You got a deal. You could only get the 440 with the GTX option. The hood bulge had the engine call out (440) and the GTX emblem just below it. If it is a true numbers match car, only 117 were made. Restore it back original and you will have a very rare ride.

Mar. 6, 2006

What ever happened to the old fashioned radiator hoses with the spring inside? Even the expensive YearOne ones do not have the spring inside. I was once told this was important to prevent the hose from collapsing at high speeds and preventing water flow. Can the spring be purchased separately? Has anyone had a problem with overheating at high speeds because of this? Thanks, Roman

My guess is the loss of the springs were a cost cutting measure. I've never had any problem with a hose sucking shut at any speed.

Mar. 6, 2006

I used to own a 1974 Road Runner with the GTX 440 automatic. The car was mint when I sold it 10 years ago, all original. Roughly what is it worth today and exactly what was the GTX option. JC

There were only 70 or so 440 GTX’s made in 1974. Depending on condition it would be hard to say what its value would be.

Mar. 5, 2006

Can somebody please advise me on a problem I have with my 1969 Road Runner? When I started restoring this car it was stripped of almost everything to make it lighter (a former race car) my question is on my front fender wheel welds to the rear of the weld there is a clip to fasten something and also on top of my wheel weld there is a bracket for something to attach, I keep saying it needs an outer wheel house, but Year One techs tell me Road Runners didn't have one. I can look from my front tire and see the top of the fender. I have splash shield installed. Something has to go there I feel or stones may be thrown up against my fender. Please will a Road Runner owner please take the time to glance at their own car and contact me and please let me know what belongs there. 717-362-1069 OR DMTM@EPIX.NET if you know what belongs there. You can call me collect, please ask for Don. Thank you, desperate and anxious to drive my new restoration!!!

The 1969 Road Runners (and all PRE 1971 Mopar B Bodies) did not have an inner fender like C Bodies do. There is nothing from the factory to protect the fenders underneath. Without seeing pictures of excatly what you are talking about, I'll make a guess on your other questions. On the lower rear corner there should be a rubber flap held in w/ clips. These are access holes to gain access to the upper control arms. There are also the same holes to get to the front bolts of the control arms. Depending on which side the bracket is one, If it's the passenger side, there is suppose to be a bracket to hold the heater hoses. If it's the drivers side, it may be the brace for the battery box.


My 68 Runner does not have any inner fender panel. I believe the only thing you may want to do to help protect your investment is to undercoat the fender. Several manufacturers make do-it-yourself kits (Eastwood is Good) or you could have the Mopar dealer do it. Undercoating will help keep rocks and slow Chevys and Fords from being thrown up into the underside of an unprotected fender and possibly denting it. One other thing I have recently seen is having one of the truck bed lining spray companies spray just the top underside of the fender. The lining material is very tough.

Mar. 4, 2006

Hello my name is John. Please, please, If someone can help me with a couple of questions? I have a 1973 Road Runner GTX 440 4bbl auto trans car it has rear window def and cruise control. When I bought the car I was told it is all original, but i'm not sure how to check to see if it is a matching number car, I'm also having trouble finding out about the codes on the trim tag. I also have the build sheet, I found it under the back seat. And I see someone on this site stated that there was only 117 made this year. Can anyone confirm that? Thank you John.

As I've previously posted on this site many, many, many times... Check here. He can help you. http://www.gvgovier.com/


As has been stated many times in this website, check with Galen Govier. @ http://www.gvgovier.com/ . He is the guru of all things Mopar. Also, this website has books for sale, one is the Dodge and Plymouth Muscle Car Red Book. It will give you the production numbers and yes, it says that only 117 440/GTX optioned Road Runners were made in 1973. I had one, if I only knew then what I know now.

Mar. 3, 2006

Hi, I have a 1972 Road Runner GTX 440 4speed. I am looking for the correct exhaust manifold casting numbers. My car has headers on. Many thanks.

Go to the website www.mymopar.com. Under the menu option, select the “Mopar Tools/Reference”. On the right you will see a link for Mopar casting numbers for exhaust manifolds (among a LOT of other information).

Mar. 3, 2006

I am restoring a 1969 440 Bird and I have a seat question. I can see the floor board through the driver's front bench! I am having the seats redone and have already purchased the seat covers from YearOne. My question is about foam or padding. I have only been able to find seat foam for bucket seats but not bench. I can see that my bench has foam or padding between the springs and covers. Where do I get that from or is it just foam that I buy somewhere else that is not car specific?

legendaryautointeriors.com handles seat foam

Mar. 3, 2006

Hello, I have a 1969 Road Runner I was wondering if I can fit a set of 20 inch rims on the car? Maybe 20x10 rear and 20x8 in the front? If not, how about 18"s?

Mar. 2, 2006

I have a 1968 Road Runner that was originally Bahama Blue and was painted this beautiful burgundy/deep carmine red or like that. I am trying to find out what this color was and who manufactured it. It is the same color as tons of advertisements and brochures but I can't seem to locate the color or company that made the paint...any ideas would be excellent, Dan

I don’t remember seeing any color such as you described in any of the Mopar PPG color brochures for 1968 or 69. Plymouth had a PP1 red which was a very deep red. Some cars were painted a brighter red as seen on most all brochures but the bright red is a Dodge code, not Plymouth. Anyway, there are a number of websites, including Ebay, that you can obtain PPG paint charts.

Feb. 25, 2006

I recently purchased a 1968 GTX, it seems to be original and has only 43100 miles on it. I'm looking for the build sheet. I tried under the rear seat with no luck. I'm also looking for information that would tell me how many cars like mine were built. Any suggestions?

I have heard of sheets found under the front seats and the carpet.


I've even heard of build sheets behind the headliner but that's pretty rare.


Scroll down the bulletin board comments section until you get to Jan.1, 2006 by Kent. Many people have the same question. Websites, such as this one, have a lot of literature available for research. One is the Dodge & Plymouth Muscle Car Red Book. Look on this site under restorations for many great reference books for anyone who is thinking about a restoration project. The Red Book breaks down a lot of models into engine, transmission, body types and production numbers. It takes some study and research but if you love Mopars there is a lot of information to be found and absorbed.

Feb. 23, 2006

I just bought a 1974 Road Runner and want to learn more about it any advise or sites are welcome. New owner Bob

Feb. 23, 2006

Is a 1969 Road Runner 383 with air-grabber supposed to have a gloss black or chrome oil-filler/breather cap? Mine needs refinishing and I've seen both. It's the one with one breather hose sticking out of the side and says OIL on top. Thanks

I've owned 2 69's. The oil breather on both was chrome.


Like you, I have seen both. I have an original EARLY road test of the Road Runners and it clearly has the black oil breather cap. However, I also have some of the original magazine articles and ads from Plymouth. The articles, in the list of all the options and highlights of the Road Runner, actually mentions the chrome oil breather cap. Most of the later pictures in Chrysler ads and magazines show the chrome cap. I would go with the proper engine color, including the valve covers, (as far as I know, mother Mopar never put chrome valve covers on any 383 production engines) and add the chrome breather cap.

Feb. 23, 2006

I have a 1968 Road Runner and am looking for new rear glass. I was told there was a supplier in Columbus, Ohio area. Wondered if anyone has any more info. Thanks, Tom

After a long search for these myself, I found these guys:
http://www.psautoglass.com/
They should be in late May 2006, around 350.00 (425.00 shipped). They will be available in clear or green tint.

Feb. 20, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner w/ the stock rims and redline tires. I know a lot of you will cringe but I don't like the way they look. I plan on keeping them because they are valuable but I really want to get American racing torque thrust "D"s, w/ the magnesium gray finish. I'm just not sure what size to get. I don't want to get rims and tires and have them not fit. I would like to go 15" in the front and 16" in the back, possibly 17" if it was possible, cuz I don't like the way it sits. I also want a fairly meaty tire in the rear. Any suggestions??

American Torque Thrusts look great on Road Runners! I have Magnum 500's on mine. I went 15" all around and used the following tire sizea because they are all the same height (28.5"):
Front: 15"x7" with B.F. Goodrich 235-70R15 tires
Rear: 15"x8" (stock backspace) with BF Goodrich 275-60R15 tires.
The fronts are about 7"-8" wide and the rears are an easy 11" wide. You won't need to do any trimming or anything - they'll go right in with just a finger's width of room to spare. The taller tire (28.5") really fills the wheelwells.

Feb. 19, 2006

I have a 1969 Plymouth Satellite w/383 #s matching engine and it is equipped with factory a/c. I was wondering if it would be worth more money in the end to clone it into a Road Runner or restore it to an original Satellite? I heard this car is rare being a big block a/c Satellite. Not sure would appreciate an educated opinion.

In my opinion, I'd keep your car a Satellite. Everyone knows about road runners. Not a lot of Satellites, or Belvederes left.


I'd keep it a Satellite. Very few were produced with big block power. It is much rarer than a road runner. This won't necessarily make it more valuable but you never know. In any case it is a cool car and definitely will surprise a lot of people when you pop open the hood! Congrats on having a really neat peice of automotive history.

Feb. 17, 2006

I have a 1970 Road Runner that I am restoring. The paint is FK5 Deep Burnt Orange Metallic. What is the paint code for the interior dash frame? It is a flat orange. Where is the best place to get this in aerosol?

Feb. 16, 2006

I have a 1968 Road Runner and am missing the fender tag and am unable to locate the build sheet. I'm trying to find how to eather make a fender tag or buy one any help would be appreciated.

You'll need the build sheet in order to make an accurate fender tag since the build sheet has all the option codes on it.

Feb. 15, 2006

I'm looking for a part and I'm not sure what the name of it is. It's on the end of the steering column it connects the everything together with the pins through it. I'm not sure whether it's called a coupler but it sits on the end of the input shaft of the steering gearbox and connects to the shoes then you slide your pins through. If anyone knows the name of the part and where I could find one it would help. I've already tried YearOne. Thanks.

Jim’s Auto Parts is a major Mopar restoration parts house. (There are many others) Their web site is www.jimsautoparts.com . They have the individual steering coupler parts or a complete kit. Pull up their website, look under Restoration Parts, then under Suspension & Drivetrain Parts, then Steering and scroll down to the individual coupler parts or the Kits section and pick what you need. I used their kit to rebuild the coupler on my 68 Runner restoration and was impressed with the parts & fit.

Feb. 10, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner Coupe, and was wondering if anyone can explain to me, step by step, how to completely remove the dash from the car so that I can bead blast it and repaint it. Thanks for your help.

First, you have to have the windshield removed. There are screws along the front edge, under the windshield gasket that you can't get to with the glass installed. Then you need to disconnect the wires. The quickest easiest way is to simply disconnect the firewall block. You'll also have to unplug the door jam wires for your dome light. And behind the drivers kick panel is a large plug that goes to the console and the tail light wiring. The wires on the front of the heater need to be unplugged. Also the defroster hoses from the heater. The speedometer cable will need to be undone from the back of the speedometer. Speaker wires and the radio antenna will need to be unhooked from your radio. There is a bolt on each side of the lower dash frame behind the kick panels. And to pull the complete dash you'll need to take out or at least drop the steering column.

Feb. 9, 2006

I'm restoring a 1972 340 4spd Road Runner. I need some help with some things such as transmision and HURST shifter for the a833 also any other 1972 Road Runner information would be great please e-mail me if you know of any great books or just have some general insight thanks.

Feb. 7, 2006

This is the only site on the net I have been able to find that is dedicated to Road Runners. I like that! But, I still crave reference material. Does anyone know of a website that has information specific to RRs (69 in particular) in a seachable or perusable format? Thanks

This website has a lot of great information as you stated and this bulletin board has helped a lot of enthusiasts. I have also found a lot of great material on ebay under “68 roadrunner” or your particular model & year. There are original articles, factory publication, magazine articles and factory manuals available just to name a few. Query the internet with websites searches like “mopar restorations”. Try different combinations. There is a lot of information out there for the asking.


Here is the web address of another 1969 road runner website. Its a fairly new site but I like it. Check it out. http://www.69roadrunner.org/index.php

Feb. 7, 2006

Exactly how rare is the Silver Interior? I have a 69 that came with it but, I am probably going to reinstall a black interior. Is this idiotic? Thanks for your help!! Clay Fees

I can't give you any production figures but I'll tell you this - I have never seen a 69 road runner with a sliver interior. A GTX, yes. A Road Runner, no. The silver is far more rare than the black. I'd stay original - the value of the car will be higher.

Feb. 6, 2006

I have a 1970 Sport Satellite with a stock 383 motor. I switched the 2 barrel to a 4 barrel edelbrock carb and manifold. I want to upgrade the distributor. I'm thinking of either putting in a Pertronic pointless conversion system, or, I can replace the distributor with a Mopar Performance conversion set, which looks like its comes with a whole new distributor, ecu, ballast resistor etc. I'm probably going to have someone do it, only because I don't have the time, and maybe don't have all the expertise. Any suggestions on which is better? Thanks

I'm no electrician but I installed my electronic ignition conversion kit with no problems. The included instructions are quite easy to follow. Everything you need is in the kit, except maybe for the voltage regulator. On 69 models you will need a replacement voltage regulator as the stock one is not recommended. It really is an easy swap and very reliable.


I have installed several of the Mopar Electronic Distributor kits and have had nothing but good performance from them. They are easy to install if you have a little electrical experience. I strongly suggest also installing one of the electronic voltage regulators if your car does not already have one. The electronic regulator keeps the battery voltage in the 14 -14.5 Volt range which makes the ignition system better. As a side note, if you install the Mopar system, have someone that is really good on tuning Mopars set up the advance curve in the distributor for about 12 degrees initial and a total timing of about 36 Degrees on the crank. You will not believe how much this helps a Mopar engine over the stock settings. Make sure these settings are OK with the fuel you are using depending on engine, compression, geographic location, fuel quality, etc.


I installed the mopar perf conversion kit on mine and love it. It looked a little daunting but installed in about 45 minutes and worked perfectly. Unless there is absolutely 0 play in the distributor shaft, I would not recommend the Petronic.

Feb. 6, 2006

How many 1968 Road Runners were produced which had the paint code of MM1. I think it was bronze metallic. Thanks Eric

Check with this guy, Galen Govier. I have mentioned him on this site too many times to count. He'll be able to help. http://www.gvgovier.com/

Feb. 4, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner 383 H engine with an aftermarket carb that is very wrong. The intake manifold is a Edelbrock 383 torker. Engine itself has no power upgrades. What carb should I get as a good replacement?

Since the car has no performance upgrades you probably should get a 600-650 cfm carb. The manufacturer is up to you. Holley, Edlebrock Street Demon, etc. Edelbrock makes both AFB and AVS models. The new AVS is similar to the original externally but different internally. It is easily adjustable and would be my first choice. A Holley 600 would also be a good choice as well. If you are planning performance upgrades in the future a 750 would be a good idea but not necessary on a stock engine.


There is nothing wrong going back to the stock Carter AVS carb. I have run them for years and they are a great carb with decent fuel mileage and plenty of CFM, especially for a stock 383. If the rest of the engine is original, you may want to consider going back to the factory intake with the factory Carter carb. Edelbrock’s version of the AVS is also a good choice.


The correct carb for a 4sp/No AC car is a Carter AVS model 4615.

Feb. 3, 2006

I just purchased a 1969 Road Runner and had a couple of questions. First, I cannot find the fuses. I had a 1968 in HS, but I don't remember where they were. I have looked in the general locations where they should be, but I am afraid someone took it out for some reason. Can anyone tell me where the fuse box is? Secondly, where would I find the VIN on the tranny? Great site, and thanks for your help!!

The fuse block is under the glove box, left side facing the box. There is a single bolt that holds it to the upper-side of the bottom dash lip. Remove the bolt and let the fuse box hang down. Everything is marked. You may want to disconnect your battery before removing just to be safe. On a 4-speed, I believe the ID# is on a machined pad on the passenger side. Not sure on an automatic.

Feb. 2, 2006

I am interested in 1968 Road Runner I saw on the internet. Since I'm new to this hobby I have no idea how much the car is worth. As I said it is a 1968 383 the block is a replacement not the original so it's not numbers matching. It's an automatic with vinyl roof no console. It looks to be in great shape from the photos. Any clue how much I should pay for it? By the way this is a dealer not a private party. I was surfing the net and found your website this is really great!

I wouldn't buy anything unless you can go take a look at it. Pictures lie - or at the very least can be deceiving even if unintentionally so. You'll only see the real problems with your own two eyes. That being said a car as you describe should go for anywhere from $15,000 on the low side to as much as $24,000 on the high side. If you can buy it online sight unseen don't spend too much for it. You'll be sorry if you plunk down the cash only to find hidden problems underneath that shiny paint job. In cases of internet commerce concerning used cars it is always best to remember the axiom "buyer beware."

Feb. 2, 2006

Was 1969 Road Runner 'sport stripe' (V6W) paint or decal? Were there 2 stripes? What is the width of the original stripe(s)? I know they run the length of the car at top of fender.

I have the same code on my 69. My restoration guide says the sport stripe was a dual stripe decal. Only the "accent" stripe was painted on.


Actually the V6W stripe is reflective tape. My 69 Road Runner came with it.

Feb. 2, 2006

What is an H code??????????????? 1969 Road Runner

According to Year One's catalog if the H is the 5th letter in the VIN (ex: RM23H) its a 383 cu. in./330 hp or 335 hp 4-bbl V-8 (1968-69). Ih the H is the 2nd letter in the VIN it means that the car is not a road runner at all but a Satellite (1968-70).

Jan. 28, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner, my question is will a 1970 Road Runner bench seat fit the 69?

The seat will fit. I have '70 high backs in my '69, so the bench will fit also.


Your bench seat will fit from a 70 to a 69 , but it is not correct appearing.

Jan. 26, 2006

My uncle has a 1971 Road Runner 440 6 pack. We are trying to get it running again, but we can't figure out where the wires go for the coil dist and I think 1 wire goes to the water pump. There's like only 6 wires all together. If someone could just send me some pics on this or just tell me were they go it would be a big help. Thanks.

There is usually one wire that goes to the positive side of the coil, this is battery voltage (comes from your ballast resistor). The negative wire goes either to the distributor points or control box pickup if the car has electronic ignition. There is one wire, usually purple or dark blue with a heavy cloth type sleeve over it with a plug on the end that goes to the temperature sending unit on the water-pump. The sending unit is usually either on the pump front, located behind the alternator bracket or on top of the water pump near the heater hose connections. The other wires in the engine harness go to the alternator output post (large wire, big lug) and the field connection, one to the windshield washer pump motor, one set to the horn(s) and one (usually gray) wire goes to the oil pressure sending unit on the back of the engine on the block just behind your intake manifold. If you need to, check with www.classiccarwiring.com and for a very few bucks get a color coded wiring diagram for your particular Mopar.

Jan. 23, 2006

I just found out my 1968 Road Runner was a 4-speed changed over to a automatic! What is it gonna take to get it back to a 4 speed? Where could I pick up a 4-speed tranny?

If all the brackets are still on the frame for the Z-bar, you will need the bellhousing, transmission, shifter, Z-bar and hardware, clutch linkage, spring, throwout bearing, clutch fork, fork boot, adjustment rod with hardware and the clutch pedal. I think the rear transmission crossmember is also different and you should check your drive shaft length. Most restoration parts houses have most of the pieces. Complete transmissions are available from places like Tony's Auto Parts and others. I've seen a lot on Ebay. A number of companies that advertise in some of the Mopar magazines have ads for completely rebuilt units. Also, the clutch and pressure plate which are available from Mopar, they are the correct type being the 3 finger Borg & Beck style. Also, make sure your crankshaft has the pilot bushing installed.


Ebay has used transmissions now and then. If you want a fresh one call Brewers Performance (937)698-4259 Mon-Fri 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM EST or Passon Performance (570)401-8949 www.passonperfromance.com. Either of these two places will have everything you need to convert your car back to its original 4 speed glory.


You will also need a fly wheel some require balancing and others do not depends on if the motor is internally balanced or externally balanced. If internally then you should not have to balance.

Jan. 20, 2006

I just finished putting a 440/ 4 speed in a 1972 Road Runner that had a auto 727. I need help with wiring the manual transmission start switch and the starter relay. The engine turns over by jumping the relay but nothing when turning the key of course. Thanks.

Jan. 19, 2006

Does anybody know if 1968 factory order race car (426) came with a title? Would this car be a vaulable find? No engine or trans.numbers on trunk under seal-a8r145xxx-(special order car)? Do not understand why there is an r in this number. No title available. What do you know about these cars? Some helpful info would be greatly appreciated!

The factory ordered race cars were sold on a bill of sale only.

Jan. 18, 2006

I have a 1973 Road Runner with a column shifter steering column. I have a floor shift steering column from a 74 Sebring Plus. My question is: Can I swap the 74 column into my 73? The 73 has the rubber/metal joint, while the 74 does not. Any help would be great! Thanks

Jan. 17, 2006

If you're the owner of a 1969 Road Runner VIN RM23H9G118061, I have your complete 383 engine.

Jan. 16, 2006

NEVER in my wildest dreams, did I think I would be browsing restoration talk for a car. But...I have never forgotten my (and husband's) 1970 lime green Road Runner, w/ white vinyl top. Never did I expect to admit to anyone that I have thought for years, that I would love to have it back, if it isn't in some RR graveyard. It had an automatic on the console, and bucket seats. I don't remember anything about the engine, but I know we kept up with the other 4 speeds in (gasp) side street races. We bought it new from a dealer in (Enterprise?) Alabama, when hubby was stationed at Ft Rucker. Drove it back to Southern Calif, where I sold it a few years later. I doubt that I still have any paperwork on it, but am a fair researcher, and could probably track it down, if I put my mind to it. I have a picture somewhere, if it still is out there, someone may want that. Who knows? At least I now know that there are others out there like me, driving down roadrunner memory lane. Wish I knew an approx. number of how many were built. If you know anything about it, drop me a note.

http://lost-car-registry.tripod.com/main.html

Check out this site--they may help you find your car. I just found the site 5 minutes ago---don't know anything about it yet.

Jan. 16, 2006

Hello, I have a 69 Plymouth Road Runner which I just replaced the dash wiring harness. When I went to hook the battery back up I received smoke at the bulk head Pin "J" which is the blue fusible link that connects to the starter relay on the outside of the bulk head and a red wire on the inside. I have checked all the connections and they appear to be correct. Most of them only connect one way. The car was operating normally prior to replaceing the dash harness. Any ideas or thoughts? Thanks, Bill

Tough question, tough solution. Make sure that the connection between the plugs and the bulkhead are clean and tight. Sometimes the lugs (either the male or female side) will back out and not make a good connection when the plugs are pressed onto the bulkhead connector. The plug with the fusable link supplies all power to your dash, engine and light system for the entire car so therefore it handles a fairly high current. A bad connection at the point of high current can really cause a problem. Other than that all I can suggest is unplug your wire harness from the different loads under the dash such as the radio, lighter, the dash cluster, etc. With nothing plugged into the harness, hook up your battery and see if everything looks OK. This will confirm that nothing is shorted on your new harness. Disconnect the battery, hook up one item (such as your dash instrument cluster), reconnect the battery and test again for operation of just that 1 item. You should eventually find the problem. . Be sure to replace the fuseable link with the correct one, they do come in different current ratings.

Jan. 16, 2006

Can anyone tell me which way is the proper way that the dash harness plugs into the emergency flasher switch on a 1969 Plymouth Road Runner? Are the red and white facing the top or bottom?

Jan. 15, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner, 2 door hardtop with 383 4 speed, and a console with a woodgrain panel. How many road runners were there made like this? The book says there were 47,365 hardtops, but doesn't break it down to 4 speeds. Plus the woodgrain console also make this more rare. I would appreciate a reply if anyone knows. Thanks

Check here. He can help you. http://www.gvgovier.com/

Jan. 14, 2006

One of my crankshaft bolts snapped when we were torquing them down. Does anyone know where I could order new ones? It's for a 1972 Road Runner with the 440.

If you are speaking of the flywheel or flex plate bolts, they are available from most all restoration parts houses. You can get them from your local Chrysler dealer from the Mopar Performance catalog, or from YearOne, Jim's Auto Parts, and many others. Just jump on the internet and search for "Mopar Parts" or Mopar Restoration" to find a wealth of parts suppliers. They are also available from most all speed parts companies such as Jegs and Summit.

Jan. 13, 2006

I have a 1973 Road Runner 340 I am restoring that orginally came in B5 true blue metallic with white stripes (from build sheet). Does anyone know if the original stripe was matte or reflective?

I had a 1973 440/GTX Runner, blue with the white stripes along the body, over the top and also on the hood bulge. Mine were a normal looking medium gloss vinyl. One interesting point, one of my front fender stripes had to be replaced due to shipping damage and when I picked the car up there was a gross mis-match of color. After a lot of digging in the parts books, I found that there was a soft white AND a bright white stripe. I doubt if any of the stripe kits available today offer but one. Just thought you might be interested.


I just finished an install on a yellow 73 RR and used a med gloss black stripe. We actually discussed the gloss of the stripe and the owner concluded from owning 2 of these cars in the late 70's that a med gloss non reflective stripe.

Jan. 12, 2006

I have a strange question, I was hoping someone on this site could help me. I'm looking for a Road Runner Halloween costume for my granddaughter to wear at car cruises.

Jan. 9, 2006

Where is the fender tag located on a 1969 Road Runner that came with factory air conditioning? The bracket hold down for the condensing pipe is bolted where the fender tag should be. Were the fender tags located in a different spot for cars that came with factory AC or is my fender tag just missing? This is an all original with all numbers matching car.

The fender tag is missing. It was always located on the drivers side inner fender on the horizontal shelf area between the hood hinge and battery (closer to the battery than the hinge). My car is factory a/c equipped as well. If you have the build sheet you can have a new fender tag made. Contact Galen Govier - his address can be found on the bulletin board page you posted your message on.

Jan. 9, 2006

Looking at a 1974 Road Runner to purchase, not sure what it is worth. Unrestored & complete, 440 auto, buckets, factory sunroof in fairly good shape. Looks to be original paint with original stripe kit. Any idea what it is worth now, and restored? Thanks

Go to your local bookstore (Barnes and Noble, Borders, etc.) and look for the Old Car Buyers Guide. If they don't have one ask them to get it. This book will give you values based on condition. I have to say a 74 Road Runner GTX equipped as you say is quite rare, especially with the sunroof. Scroll down the page to find Galen Govier's website and see what you need to get for him to help you with the car, (production numbers, etc). I'd say snap that baby up right now!


I had a 1973 Road Runner with the GTX option with the 440. Didn't know it then but as I was researching my current project I discovered that only 117 of the '73s were made with the GTX/440 option. If it is original, I would say buy that baby and restore.

Jan. 7, 2006

Can someone help me, I am going to buy a 1970 Road Runner project car it use to be a parts car and now the dash is gone and the doors, and a lot more parts are missing. And, the guy does not have the VIN tag and he does not have the title. I am hoping to find someone with a clear VIN tag and title for this Road Runner.

You can usually find the VIN on the radiator support bulkhead. As for the title - check with your state's DMV - you might be able to get a salvage title for it or maybe even a new title if you can find the VIN.


Here in Iowa you and the owner can apply for a builders title, it is illegal to just take a title from another car and title this car with it. You could invest a lot of $ and end up losing the car. Get a correct title or look for another car.

Jan. 4, 2006

Does anyone know what the widest rim size (front and back) is possible for a 1968 GTX. I'm thinking about running 18 x 8.5 in the the front and 18 x 9.5 in the rear. What would be the offsets for the front and rear ? and what is the bolt pattern size? 5 x ? Thanks for any help with these questions.

The bolt pattern size for B-Body cars is 5 X 4.5". As for your wheel sizes, I am running 15"x8" on the rear with stock backspacing (4.5" I believe) 275-60R-15 tires (28.5" tall) and they fit perfectly. You'll need to be very careful with wheels any wider than that I would think. You might try a 4" backspacing, but then you are going to have problems at the wheelwell lip. You'll also have to raise the car some to get 18" wheels on it, too. All I can tell you is take some measurements and try to test fit a wheel on it to see how it fits. You are running a very non-stock wheel size as they came standard with 14" wheels -15" wheels optional.

Jan. 3, 2006

Think I may not have original transmission on my recently purchased 1969 Road Runner. 4-speed with transmission casting number(s): 095664 on one side and 97622 on other...trying to install new Hurst shifter but rods with install kit are different from what I am replacing. Could not locate these numbers in my moparts VIN trans. De-codong. Please any help appreciated!

The numbers you found may be the last digits of the VIN number. I don't recognize the numbers as casting numbers.

Jan. 2, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner. I have removed the steering wheel, but can not figure out how to get into the steering column to check wiring. Any help? Thanks!

Your main wire harness comes down your steering column through a trough under the column. There is a removable cover under the column, near where it bolts up under the dash. You will see a large connector that plugs the column into the dash harness. You will be limited on how much you can see or do unless you remove the column. All the wiring that comes from your signal switch under the steering wheel comes down into the connector. To remove the signal switch and wiring you must release the contacts in the large connector and pull each contact and wire out of the connector body. Then you can remove the switch by feeding the wiring up through the column. Be sure to make a chart of where the different color coded wires go in the connector so you can put it back where it belongs. Be sure that your battery is disconnect before messing with any wiring.

Jan. 1, 2006

I feel dumb for asking that last question because after I wrote it I relized what I said, but anyway, my next question is I don't have the build sheet so is there any other way to know if the car was a manual 4 speed? There's a hole in the floor and if it was a 4 speed they did a good job of changing it over! Other question is after a complete tear down of the car and I know paint and motor work has to be done, but where's a good place to start the rebulid? Where do I find a complete engine wiring harness?

I'm fairly sure the only two transmission options on the '68 RoadRunners were either the 4-speed or the torqueflite automatic.

Wiring harnesses (engine, front lights, underdash, rear lights, backup, tach etc.) can be ordered from a number of restoration houses. I installed all new harnesses from YearOne on my 68 Runner project and they were a perfect fit and function.

Jan. 1, 2006

I have a 1973 Sattelite with a small block and I am looking for a good mounting conversion kit. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Check with Schumaker Creative Services www.engineswaps.com or 206-364-7151. If anyone can help you they's be the ones to check with.


I bought a swap kit from the place that was suggested to you on the web site and it was a little expensive but it worked great. I have a 74 Satellite and i had a 318 in it but went to a 383. It was done in one evening and was pretty straight forward.

Jan. 1, 2006

I recently acquired a 1969 Road Runner Convertible w/Factory Air. It runs and drives, but needs complete resto. I know the number of convertibles made, but I have not found the number of 1969 Converts with A/C. Does anybody know? Also, it has the H2B interior code which according to the RR Restoraion Guide is light blue, but I don't know if it should be standard, decor, or deluxe level interior. How do I tell? Lastly, what color should the rear seat plastic door panels be? Are they body color or like the tops of the front door panels or some other color? Any info would be appreciated.

As previously posted many times by me on this website - please contact Galen Govier, noted Mopar expert. Check out his website at: http://www.gvgovier.com/

Jan. 1, 2006

I have a 1970 Plymouth Sport Satellite. I can't get the temp gauge or the gas gauge to work, I've even bought another (used) instrument panel, but...same problem. The ALT gauge works, and all the instrument lights work, but, the temp gauge and gas gauge do not. I replaced the sending unit before when I first pulled the car from storage, thinking that was the problem. (the gas tank was in bad shape anyway). I''ve tried to ground the sending unit and the temp gauges to make the gauges respond, but, no luck. I've noticed in several ads ".....car runs good, temp gauge and gas gauge do not work..." Is this a common problem? The old instrument panel had bad pins, and thats why I got a new one. possibly the new wires may have been switched, but, I don't think so. It just seems too much of a coincidence that the old panel didn't work either. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I am not totally sure on the 70 Runners but do your instrument clusters have one of the small metal can voltage limiters? The 68-69 Runners do, it is located just behind the ammeter on the circuit board. It plugs into the circuit board with 3 contacts or terminals. The limiter takes the 12 volt battery voltage and drops it to around 5 volts. The 5 volts is only used for the fuel and temperature gauges. If your car has one it may be bad. If it is accessible, you can measure one end of the limiter to see if 12 volts is on it. The other end should be around 5 volts. Your problem has to be common to both gauges. The typical gauge wiring is simple. On the 68-69 cars, the 5 volts is on one side of the temperature or fuel gauge, current passes through the gauge, through the wire harness, to the gas tank sending unit or the temperature sending unit which are tied to the chassis ground. The change in ohm value of the sending units are what makes the gauges indicate.


If you upgraded your sending from 5/16 to a 3/8 fuel line and it happens to be a year one product they strongly suggest you send your fuel gauge to them so they can calibrate it to there sending unit to + or -- a 1/4 of a tank or not have it work at all for $150.00 plus shipping and handling a lot of elbow grease. Or, you can go to rt specialties www.rtspecialties.net and get one that is calibrated to stock specs for the same price, I would recomend the latter.

Jan. 1, 2006

Hi guys,excellent site. I'm helping a friend re-assemble a 1971 GTX u code car. I'm wondering how rare this car is, can anyone help? The car is a numbers matching car except for the engine and trans, although someone put a numbers matching 440 6-pack engine and trans (real 6 pack block). He has sold off the intake and carbs and installed the 4 barrel set up.Ok now the other stuff, it has factory air, tilt steering, has rimblow steering wheel option code, bench seat, black seats with gold bronze velour inserts, 3:91 posi, full vinyl top, trunk luggage rack, 15 inch rallye wheels, and VIN says special orser. Car is also black. Also I can't figure out the hood release set-up. Any help would be apreciated. Thanks Mike.

Jan. 1, 2006

Did the 1970 Road Runner come with dog dish caps from the factory? I have a brochure for the 1970 Road Runner that shows the road wheel, the rally and hubcaps but not dog dish. Thank you.

Yes, they did.