Nov. 19, 2006

Ok guys I got another strange question up for debate and/or clarification. Dodge had the "Magnum" engine and Plymouth had the "Super Comando" engine. Did Dodge at one time or EVER call any of their engines "SuperComando", and Did Plymouth at one time or EVER call any of their engines "Magnum" ??? In my circles the question rages on that Plymouth had both labeled a 383 and a 440 Magnum engine as well as a 383 and 440 Super Comando engine. What's your take on it? Thanks for your input.

Sat Nov 18 15:59:21 2006

My first car was a 1970 Road Runner, I am trying to locate this car! I have the VIN which is RM23N0G144822, that is all the numbers I have. Is there more? Whenever I try to run a VIN check it says I don't have enough numbers any help would be appreciated!

Nov. 17, 2006

Hello All, I just purchased a 1969 Road Runner, and my question is: On the right side of the transmission case I have the following numbers that are cast into it. They are C95664, and also an H3 with C 99129 below it. Thank's in advance for the help. K.

Nov. 15, 2006

Does anybody know either how to restore or someone that does restorations to the woodgrain appearance in the rally cluster bezel? They always seem to be worn thru showing black or dark blotches. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Nov. 14, 2006

I have a 1971 Road Runner I'm restoring. Even though I believe tilt steering columns were not an option for the Road Runner I was wondering if anyone out there knows of another Mopar model and year that came with tilt steering that can be swapped out with little or no difficulty. Sure would appreciate some help with this query. Cheers

Nov. 10, 2006

Who's good with 4 speed trannys? I had my pilot bushing replaced months ago, but now I notice now that the clutch pedel is slow to come off the floor, but then after a couple of inches, it kicks up hard at my foot. I tried to adjust the push rod so I wasn't pressing the pedel too far, but then the pedel drops inside the car? I didn't get a warranty from the shop because I have the crankshaft from an automatic and he wouldn't warranty it. If I try to pull the clutch myself, what would I look for? Months ago he said the clutch and flywheel looked great. This car was an original 4 speed, but they used the wrong crank during the rebuild.

Nov. 9, 2006

Does anyone know whether the rubber floor mat was available in 1969 rather than carpet, or was carpet standard? I know the floor mat was standard in 1968, and my car has very few options, but it did have carpet. I would like to make it as spartan as it could have been, without doing anything irreperable to it. So, if the floor mat was available, I want to use that rather than carpet.

Nov. 8, 2006

I am looking for a "run" wire for my 1968 Road Runner. I am hooking up my second aftermarket tachometer (Sunpro Mini II), the first one went up in smoke, and the manufacturer says to: "Connect the RED wire to any vehicle harness wire which is energized with battery voltage, ONLY when the ignition key is in the ON (RUN) position" I have tested all the connectons coming from my switch and found none that are only energized while the engine is running. My car did not come with a factory tach, so there is nothing in the fuse block for me to connect to as well. I have the factory service manual, but cannot find anything that will help. Perhaps I am looking in the wrong places. Is there something i am missing, or is there somewhere else I can look? Thanks in advance,

Nov. 3, 2006

I submitted a question a few month's ago and didn't quite get the answers that I was looking for so I will ask again. I have a 1969 Road Runner which I know is a Road Runner because I saw the car before it went to the body shop to be stripped and restored, however my cousin who began the project who owned the body shop passed away and the original dash tag, fender tag, and build sheet are not able to be found as of yet. The original motor and tranny has been gone for years. I know the car was a 383, 4 speed post car. I looked for numbers on the rad support, trunk near weather stripping, and driver's side frame rail and the numbers I found in those places were not VIN numbers and I sent an email to Galen's Tag Service with these numbers and have not received a response. Is there any other location on this car where there will be a definite stamp of the VIN number? Until I find either the original tags or a VIN number off the car its only good to me as a parts ccar for my 1968 Satellite.

Oct. 30, 2006

I have a 1968 sat convert with a big block 383 would this car be worth more as a GTX clone or leave it as is?

Oct. 29, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner convertible. I'm thinking about restoring it and would like to know a few things about it before I do it. And I'm having a hard time getting the anwsers. Here is the VIN# and the tag#

RM27H9G144159

M31 NB5 R11 26 END
AO1 A31 C16 C55 L31 M25
B5 B5 M6B B7 A14 067002
F63 D21 RM27 H9G 144159

Can you tell me how many of them were made and how rare this car is and about how much it will be worth if I do have it done? I was told it would cost about $30,000 to restore this car to new condition and want to make sure it's not a bad investment. Thanks a lot for your time, Chris

Oct. 27, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner with power steering. I have a small leak on the lower seal were the pitman arm is. It only leaks under pressure. I usually find a very small amount on the drive after taking it out for a cruise. I have heard of lucas power steering stop leak. Has anybody tried it? I have heard that using this product can cause the gearbox to stop working by plugging the ports. Is this true? Any info will be a great help. Thanks

Oct. 24, 2006

My emergency brake lights stays on all the time very dim, when I engage the brake it comes on bright no problem. I have disconnected the switch and it is still dim. Any suggestions Thanks

Oct. 19, 2006

I have an aftermarket alternator (35 or 45 amp) on my 1968 Road Runner. There is one BAT terminal and two FLD terminals. Only one field terminal is being used. Is this OK? When would two FLD terminals be used. The car does have the Mopar electronic ignition. No Air Conditioning. Thanks for any help!

Oct. 17, 2006

i have a 1969 Road Runner with strange Bendix brakes (disc) up front. I am having a hard time getting these repaired or replacements. Any ideas?

Oct. 16, 2006

I have a 1969 383 4speed Road Runner. I have replaced the leaf springs from Mopar. Should I replace the original tortion bars? And, if so, which ones should I use? The stock, or the heavier bars? What should I use when replacing the bushings? Stock, poly, or poly graphite? Need Help!

Oct. 10, 2006

I have a 1970 Road Runner and am trying to find out the numbers for the bumper jack and stand. Does anybody know the numbers for these parts? I've looked all over, but without luck. Thank you so much for your time if you send a response....ohhh, yes I am looking for these parts.

Oct. 10, 2006

I have a '69 Road Runner with a 383 and a 4-speed. I have had some problems with it starting. It has an old Mallory distributor in it (the cap has the plug wires secured without boots, like a marine application). It also has an electric fuel pump. Anyway, I ordered a replacement cap for the distributor since the old one looked cracked inside. I thought I had a bad gas situation so I disconnected the fuel line from the gas tank and had a hose going to a small gas can and it was still starting. I removed the gas tank to get it boiled out and now it won't start. Does the wire to the fuel pickup need to be connected or does that break the ground on the car starting? I have also had starter issues. I bought a replacement starter and then a relay but the relay they make is different than mine so I didn't replace it. Lot of issues. Thinking about taking it to a mechanic since I am more familiar with Fords than Plymouths (also have a 68 Mustang GT fastback). I was going for the Bullitt set, but like the Road Runner better than Chargers. Any help would greatly be appreciated. Great forum!

First thing I would do is toss the electric fuel pump.You dont need it,unless your using more than one carb.The stock pump is more than enough.The ground strap coming off the fuel tank is a good idea.Had to use it on my 1970 Road Runner.


I was having intermittent starting problems on my 1969 Road Runner. I found when the car would not start, I was not getting voltage to the + side of the coil. I found a loose connection on the spade terminals going to the ballast resistor was causing the problem. The engine now fires right up every time.

Oct. 9, 2006

Does anyone know if there is any companies reproducing grilles for 1972 Road Runners?

Oct. 8, 2006

Is there any company making a carbon fiber six-pack hood for a 1968-69 Road Runner. I saw the fiber glass ones all over but I would like to see if I could find a carbon fiber one. If anyone has a site or company I could find one of these at, it would really help. Thanks Matt

Oct. 8, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner and I just had the 440 rebuilt and had it on the dyno. The engine has 460hp with 500ftp of torque. The shop used a 6a box with my mopar electronic distributor for the dyno and I am told it ran great. I get the engine from the shop and drop it in and the engine runs like shit. Here is what I have done to the car.
1. Pulled engine and sent to shop
2.sanded and painted engine bay
3. Installed new year one engine harnees, forward light harness, starter relay, voltage regulator (for 1969), ballast resistor, orange box (ecu) and batt cables. All was installed on the car the same way before I did anything to it. I have added a new carb, new distributor and MO blaster coil for nothing it seems now... still runs like crap. I am thinking this is a wiring problem. The electronic ignition is wired just as it is in the directions, orange box on firewall with the 1 wire spliced to the wire on the ballast resistor the green not used and the rest to the distributor and neg of coil. The regulator is the one for 1969 but this is how it was hooked up before and it worked. I have just replaced everything with new parts mostly for a clean look in the engine bay. My friend has tested the voltage and it all seems fine (to the Chevy guy that is helping me) he did say that the coil is getting 8 volts to it.
1) Can you tell me how to test voltage at pos or neg at the coil with ignition on not running and with engine running?
2) What does the ballast resistor (white block) do?
3) Looking at the fuse box I have one fuse that says instrument panel. The orange wire runs from the back of it over to under the steering in a connector. The other end of the connector that runs up the steering column doesn’t have an orange wire or no wire for that matter. Am I missing something? My blinkers and flashers don't work now as well. I did find a wire for the blinkers broken behind the horn and I held them together and the blinkers will light but not blink. How can I get this car to purr? I hope the problems at the dash have nothing to do with the engine running the way it is. I am thinking of buying one of the continuous 13.5 voltage regulators for use with 69 and early cars (small blue box). Any help would be great. If I don't get this thing running right I am going to see if my 45 will go through the block of the 440!

Your carb sounds like it is running way too rich, (black sooty plugs) which is great for dyno pulls and max power but terrible for street use. It sounds like you need to adjust your carb jetting and (if it is a Holley) try a different power valve. Find a good carb tuner in your area and let them analyze it if you are unsure of what to do


First, have you talked with the builder? They normally do not want bad reputations. Is the smoke black or white? White or gray smoke is usually an oil problem. If it is black, like what you said about your plugs then it typically is fuel related. Do you have another carburetor you can try? The Holly you have may have had a needle and seat go bad, ingested some dirt or have a problem with a float, power valve or something similar. Did the engine act this way as soon as it was installed? If so, then something may have happened to it during transport. If you are not comfortable doing it, I would have someone check your carburetor. If the engine made the big power on the dyno, it was definitely running properly with the correct air/fuel mixture. If you had a vacuum leak the engine will run rough but normally would not go rich at idle.


I had a similar problem with my rdrunner, on the rebuilt engine with the new performance cam it had alot less manifold vacuum. I had to change the powervalve in my holly dbl pumper to a 2.5. Ran like a top after that

Oct. 4, 2006

I'm building a 440 six-pack motor and had to buy the setup new from scratch so I'm using the aftermarket Holley carbs that are suggested but I'm running a fairly large cam from Hughes racing engines. Does anyone have any suggestions on jet sizes for the carbs? I'm used to running AVS on all my motors so I'm lost around these Holley 2 bls. Thanks

Oct. 4, 2006

Hi, wanting to know the location to put the standing bird decal on the interior of my 1970 Road Runner? I've seen them on the upper passenger door only? Both upper doors and on the dash above the glovebox on the left side? Anybody know for sure how many or where their supposed to be on the interior for the 1970 Road Runner? Sincerely, Gary

From what I've read, the '70s had the standing bird on the passenger door only.

Oct. 3, 2006

I have a 1972 Plymouth Satelite Sebring. My brake lights went out on me. I have signal lights, bulbs are all good, power to the switch, fuses are good, continuity through the switch so that good everything is good but no brake lights. I can get it to the point where brake lights work then when I turn the signal on it won't cancel out the brake light, but it will shut the other brake light off but it will work perfect if I try the other signal. Do you have any idea where the wire from the switch connects to the circuit or any idea what is going on?

It sounds like your turn signal switch is bad. I had the same problem with my '69. I had only one brake light, but the signals and the tail lights worked. Try gently moving the turn signal lever slowly while the brakes are on. see if the brake lights work then.

Oct. 3, 2006

Yesterday I got a fresh air air cleaner assembly for $200 bucks. I measured the opening of the air cleaner it showed 5 inches. He told me it was for a 1969 440 GTX. When I went to put it on the car, the opening was 5 inches but the back drivers side corner of the bottom plate of the air cleaner where the vent tube is won't pass the wiper motor. Does anyone now what the difference is between the 440 and 383 fresh air air cleaner assembly? I was told that may be it of is there a spacer between the lower air cleaner plate because it looks like if I had a 1 to 2 inch spacer it might work.

The 440 air cleaner base does not sit as high as the 383 since the 440 is a taller engine. And the cars that used this air cleaner had the side ways 3 speed wiper motor for clearence.


Does the car have 2 or 3 speed wipers. The air grabber will only work with the 3 speed motor.The 3 speed motor is angled differently and it's the only way the air cleaner will fit.


The wiper motor is your problem. These cars used 2 different types. The cars that were set up for fresh air used a wiper motor that "hugged" the firewall. You can change the wiper motor or I have seen guys cut away part of the air cleaner base for clearance or as a last resort bend/hammer the air cleaner base out of the way of the wiper motor. The 440 and 383 use the same air cleaner base.

Oct. 2, 2006

Someone mentioned earlier on this site about Galen Govier at "GTS" for fender tag and vin tag info. I sent my request in to them February 16, 2006. I have sent numerous e-mails and have calls to them with no reply. I would think twice before using these people! It looks like you will need about 1 year before you can get anything from them. Too bad because they seemed like nice people. Please let me know how long it has taken for others to get their information from them?

UPDATE on 10/17/06: Just got it from GTS! And it was worth the wait. I still have questions and have called and no answer. Here we go again!

That seems to be the norm w/ GG. others have posted on moparts.org about no response.


Hi Tom, I waited more than 2 years for mine, and then gave up, never received it. Had it done within 2 weeks from another company.


That is odd. I have never had a problem contacting them. Galen is quite busy what with shows and all to attend and trips to verify customer's cars, but it is very strange that it has taken him this long to respond to your inquiries. All I can tell you is "give it another try" and see what happens.


It took about 4 months and this is peek time for car shows, like Cruising the Coast. They have a discalaimer on the web site and it reads it will take a minimum of 90 days normally. It is good product just don’t be in a rush. They decoded my 69 Road Runner which turned out to be 1 of 2 built.

Oct. 2, 2006

Oh boy! I have a 69 Road Runner w/ a 440 that I just rebuilt. Before I rebuilt it I had blow by and it ran way rich. I spent $7,000 on machine work and parts (alum. heads, Mopar M1 intake w/holley 750 DP with a DYNO test 460 HP w/500ftp of tourque. The engine is bore 30 over. My problem is the engine runs very poorly! Idle is rough and it stinks so bad. I was told that it was all timed and ready to go. I checked that the wires are in the right place and checked the timing replaced the plugs that were all black carbon started it up and it runs the same. I don't know what else to do...7k on an engine that ran better before I had it rebuilt. The smell/smoke is so bad!! I would like to break the guy's neck! Turn key and go...My foot...What should I do now?

Oct. 2, 2006

I just recently got a 1973 Road Runner from my brother in-law it needs little work the body. I know I need to get a new motor, new trans and possiably a new rear end. I was wondering if anyone can lead me to the right sites to find the things I need. I would be greatly apperiated. I'm only 25 and just now getting out of the import scene and getting into the big boy's. Thanks for reading this message, Tom from Las Vegas, Nevada.

Check this website for some of the restoration books they have and use their for sale and wanted sections. Get all the literature you can find on your particular car and study it before you start the actual work. Get on the internet and start with searches such as “mopar restorations”, “mopar restoration parts” or a number of similar searches. You will find parts from companies such as Year One, Jim’s Auto Parts, Tony’ Parts (great for body pieces), etc. I have used Ebay with great success in my 68 Runner restoration. Go to Ebay and search under “73 Road Runner” or similar searches. You will be surprised how much stuff is out there. There is a lot of information available; you just need to find your favorite places to deal with.

Oct. 1, 2006

Has anyone heard of the build sheet being on top of the gas tank? I've been on the search for the thing, and a buddy said that it also could of been placed there. Thanks, Matt

Never heard of it being on top of the gas tank, but with old Mopars you can never say never. I've heard of it being on top of the head liner and behind the dash.


It's possible.I found mine stuck in the headliner.(1970 RR)

Oct. 1, 2006

I just put on a 800 Edelbrock in my 383 Road Runner. After the usual adjustments with timing and all I still have no low end power. I've yet to even get a chirp out of the tires. What do you think this could be. The 383 is bored 30 over and has a new cam.

Well, first off you must remember "bigger is not always better" when it comes to carburetion. All to often, "bigger is worse" in terms of induction. Air flow velocity plays a big part in carb selection. This in turn is also dependent upon intake manifold, cam selection, cylinder head selection and compression. You said you have a new cam. What are the specs? (duration at .050, lift and centerline degrees). It is also possible that the cam was installed improperly which will kill off low end power. How much compression do you have? What is your timing set at? Have you done any distributor work (recurving the advance curve, etc), Are you using headers or stock exhaust manifolds? Do you have an automatic or 4 speed? If automatic - what is the stall speed of your converter? Do you have a shift kit in the trans to help it shift more firmly? What is your rear gear ratio and are you running a Sure Grip or open carrier? What tire size are you running? You see, all these things work together in balance. Just slapping on a bigger carb and expecting the car to run better is not going to do anything for you and will in all likelyhood make the car run worse. Without knowing all your parameters all we are doing is taking shots in the dark here. It sounds as if you have a slightly warmed over 383 that could stand a little more advance in the timing, a smaller carb (600 - 650 cfm), possibly a higher stall converter in the trans (if it is an automatic) and a slightly stiffer rear gear ratio (around 3.55). You'd have great "seat of the pants" response and the car would be a great cruiser.


I just went through the same thing with a friends Runner. He had the 800 AVS style Edelbrock carb and it did exactly what you are describing. I rebuilt his stock AVS, installed it and the car runs great. The 800 cfm is a little large for a reasonably stock 383. I don’t know if the Edlebrock carb needs more airflow at low RPM for proper mixture. You may want to contact the Edelbrock technical help line and ask them. There is a fine line between having the right cfm rating, air/fuel mixture and timing to make any car, especially Mopars, to run correctly off idle and low speed.


Try advancing the timing to 38 degrees at about 3500 rpms.This should help a little.

Oct. 1, 2006

I have a 68 Road Runner with the purple "Beep Beep" horn. When I press the horn button all I get is a click sound. Is there something I can do to repair or rebuild this item, or is it junk? Thanks, Steve W.

Make sure your horn relay, located next to the horn, is ok. If it is, your can try SLIGHTLY turning the adjustment screw on the horn. No more than ¼ turn at a time and try the horn. Mark the adjustment screw for a reference of your starting point and try moving the adjustment one direction in ¼ turn increments up to one full turn. If it doesn’t work, move the adjustment back to the original setting and try it the other direction in ¼ turn increments. If it doesn’t work within a full turn either way then the horn is probably shot. If you get a new horn, the 68 Runners had a single black ‘Beep Beep” horn with NO decal. The 69’s had black with the decal, later Runners had the purple horns.

Oct. 1, 2006

I bought a body plug kit for my 68 Road Runner. It's not as easy to figure out which plugs go where as I thought it would be. There are identical diameter plugs but different materials - plastiv v. rubber. Does anyone have or know where to get a diagram/description for the 68 B-body body plug layout? Thanks.

Sept. 30, 2006

Is there any company that can reproduce fender tags by the serial number?

You'll need the build sheet to accurately reproduce a fender tag. The build sheet has all the options and standard equipment codes used to build your car. The serial number has none of that.

Sept. 29, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner with a VIN number (on the dash and the title) showing it is a coupe but the car is a hard top. I've checked the raditator support frame and the trunk rail and they both match the VIN. Can anyone tell me if I can correct this problem. Thank you.

Sept. 28, 2006

I am attempting to find a 1973 Road Runner I sold in 1977. Is there a Road Runner registry that I might search with the VIN? Or, does anyone have any other sources I could go to to assist me in locating the car? Thanks in advance, Doug

Sept. 28, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner. I am having a charging problem. Vehicle is a ground up restoration. I have checked all of my grounds. Bench tested the alternator and it is charging (it is new), put in a new voltage regulator (2nd one just in case). I believe I have checked everything looking for suggestions just in case I overlooked something. Thanks in advance for your help.

I have recently been through my charging system on my 68 Runner. A couple of things come to mind. Do you have the ground strap from the engine to the firewall? Usually it is bolted to the rear of the passenger side head, just behind the intake manifold and bolts to the firewall. If you don’t have it the engine may not have a good ground and therefore neither does your alternator. Do you know if your ammeter on the dash is ok? It is part of the charging circuit and if it has a problem your system may not operate. If you have a voltmeter, start your car and measure the voltage between the negative side of the battery and the field terminal (small push on connector) on the alternator. You should read at least 3 volts if the car is requiring a charge. The voltage will drop toward zero as the battery gets toward full charge. If you do not have any voltage on the terminal then the voltage regulator is not working. One other thing, if you replaced the engine wiring harness make sure when it was plugged into the firewall bulkhead connector the contacts did not push out to where they are not making a good connection.


Check the connections on your amp gauge. If they are loose or corroded, your system won't charge. Check the gauge also.

Sept. 27, 2006

I'm replacing a 318 in my 1970 Challenger convert. with the cheapest crate Hemi. Hemi / 4-speed / Dana 60 VS. Hemi / 727 Torqueflite / 8 3/4. I know that the Dana 60 is heavy, but stronger than an 8 3/4. I always see Hemi cars with a Dana 60 if the car is a 4-speed. I'm assuming that I'll be safe with a Hemi and a 8 3/4 with a automatic (727). Cruising usage with maybe a little holeshot here and there. What's your thoughts? Please point me in the right direction if your not sure. Thanks for your time, Shawn.

The 8-3/4" rear was used behind automatic/Hemi combinations from the factory. The Dana 60 is more durable but also more difficult to change gearsets in. Some guys still use 8-3/4" rears behind their automatic/Hemi combos in Super Stock race cars so the 8-3/4" rear should do well for you. Just make sure its all fresh and you should be good to go.

Sept. 27, 2006

I have a 1968 Road Runner with the pop out quarter windows. The window seal is new, but the windows are loose at the front hinge area. Does anyone one sell a new hinge seal? I can't find them listed anywhere.

Sept. 26, 2006

Where can I get a list of the "wacky" color names used on the muscle car Plymouths? Like, Go- Mango, Sublime Green etc. Thanks

Plymouth colors were:
FC7, In-Violet, 1970,1971
EF6, Ralleye Green, 1969 (spring color only)
FJ5, Lime lite, 1970
FJ6, Sassy Grass, 1970,1971
EK2, Vitamin C, 1969,1970
EL5, Bahama Yellow, 1969,1970,1971
FM3, Moulin Rouge, 1970(spring color only) 1971 (Special order only)
EV2, Tor Red, 1969,1970,1971,1972
FY1, Lemon Twist, 1970,1971,1972,1973
GY3, Curious Yellow, 1971
Colors that were allegedly rejected by Chrysler: Catch Me Copper; Unforseeable Fuicha; Statutory Grape: Gang Green; Well Red; Cost Of Living Rose; Fisher Body Rust; Hi-Ho Silver; and Frank Lloyd White.

Sept. 25, 2006

On a 1968 Road Runner, what does the upside down 9 digit number stamped by the radiator refer to? Is it suppose to match something somewhere else on the car?

I believe the number you are describing should match the last numbers of your VIN number located on the dash at the drivers side A-Piller.

Sept. 25, 2006

I'm having problems finding a hood for my 1968 Road Runner, I was hoping to find a fiberglass one but it seams the only hood they have is a 1969 hood that they say is a 68 69 hood, but I don't like the way it looks. So, I had the option of using a 6-pack hood, but I'm not putting a 6-pack motor in it! So if anybody knows some good websites to find parts for a 1968 Road Runner please let me know! I only have 5 days until my car goes to paint so any help would be great!

Try this site www.usbody.com


moparts.org great site


I was just on Ebay and they have a 68 fiberglass hood under “68 roadrunner” as the search criteria. From the picture it looks exactly like a factory 68 steel hood. All you will need to do is install the engine badges in the cutouts. Don’t know about the hinge setup.

Sept. 24, 2006

I have a 1972 Road Runner and the turn signals quit working. The flashers still work though. I replaced the turn signal flasher, but they still don't work. Could it be in the column?

Sept. 23, 2006

Does anyone know if the front pillar post moldings are the same size on a 1968 Road Runner sedan and a 1968 4 door Satellite?

I wouldn't think the piller trim would be the same. The four door windshield is different, and the outside stainless trim is shorter, so I believe the inside trim would be different as well.

Sept. 23, 2006

I have some 15 in rims that came off a 1970 Road Runner. They are the weirdest things I have ever seen! They are steel with NO holes but for the axle studs, they are solid and look to be one piece here are some #s by the air stem...26 60 9 M2 with a 8 under the M2..the back M2 w/8 again and a C. What are they from?

These are Chrysler wheels. I have an Uncle who is into 300s. He explained to me that Dodge and Plymouth wheels have the extra holes, while Chrysler wheels are solid. I have his '69 300 at my place, and it has the solid wheels.

Sept. 21, 2006

I've got a '69 GTX with the 440 and Carter AVS carb. Is there a downloadable picture or diagram of the fuel line, showing the original routing from the fuel pump to the carb?

The best I have been able to determine is the 440’s all used a two piece fuel line. The fuel pump has a nipple input fitting and a rubber line from the frame line to the pump input. The pump output is a threaded fitting and has a short metal line attached that comes out of the pump a turns up behind the alternator. The fuel filter comes next and is behind the alternator. The filter to carb line comes next and loops around the alternator mounting bolt, over the valve cover and into the AVS carb fitting. Most restoration parts houses have the correct fuel line and gas filters. If you are installing a new line and filter, be sure to bend the lines to keep the line and filter away from the block, head and alternator.

Sept. 21, 2006

Does anyone know what was on the under side of a 1970 Road Runner from the factory. This car was undercoated from front to back but where they painted or did they have factory undercoating?

The underside should be body color, with some factory undercoating.

Sept. 20, 2006

I have a 1970 plymouth satellite. My question is: "When it rains, the rain, somehow gets to the front rubber floormats I guess its driping from above since its rubber floor mats but i also notice that the carpet near the kick panel is a little wet." I need to know where are the points that rain can come in and what else besides weatherstripping. Its on both floors in the front of the car! I do have a vent as well.

Usually the seals around the windshield wiper pivots dry out and need replaced. I had a '68 Charger, and when it rained, my feet got soaked. And anytime I washed it, there was always a puddle on each side of the floor. I was having the same problem with my Road Runner, but I had replaced the wiper seals. I figured out the radio antenna wire grommet had fallen out of the body where it comes thru the side of the body. But usually it is the wiper seals.

Sept. 17, 2006

In my 68 Road Runner I have a split bench seat with a armrest. The seats also have headrest, and it looks to have a decor package. Would this be right for this year?

I don’t think so. The only seat installed in a 68 Road Runner was a full width bench seat with the standard split backs that tilted forward for rear access. I have never seen nor heard of any 68 with an armrest. You could order headrest for just the driver or both sides. The GTX option provided more seat choices.

Sept. 10, 2006

I have a 1970 Road Runner and I was looking for somewhere to get a set of the Rally wheels. Also, does anyone know the stock tire size of that model and where I can get the Road Runner decal that runs down both sides of the car?

Check with either Year One (www.yearone.com) or the Paddock (www.paddockparts.com) for your dust stripe. As for the Wheels, you can order them from a number of suppliers. The manufacturer of the new vintage Rallye wheels is Wheel Vintiques and they are available from Summit Racing, Jegs and a number of other places. Get the 15"x7" Rallyes, center caps and trim rings (all told it comes out to very nearly $200 per wheel) with 5x4.5" bolt pattern and 4" back spacing and you'll be all set. If you want a balanced look to the car get a set of 235-70R15 tires all around. If you want a more aggressive look get 275-60R15's on the back and the 235-70R15's on the front. The 275-60's and 235-70's are the same diameter (28" tall) which is why I went with this setup on my '69 runner. Year One and the Paddock can also get the wheels for you but they might be a bit more expensive than either Summit Racing or Jegs. Don't forget the chrome lug nuts as well.


About any of the Mopar restoration parts houses have what you need. Check your internet for “Mopar Restoration Parts” or something similar and take your pick. Companies such as YearOne, Jim’s Auto Parts and others have the wheels and decals. If you have one of the decoder books available (this website) you can get the tire code from your fender plate (beside your battery) and find the tire size that originally came on your car.


I've just been through a wheel/tire issue with my 70 Roadrunner. The ralley wheels (14") are available, powder coated, new reproductions from www.coker.com. Also, the Firestone Wide Ovals are available (size F7014) there in either raised white, pinstripe or redline, depending on what your car has or had.

Sept. 8, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner, dash lights and high beam indicator do not work. Can anyone help? Thanks.

The 68-69 Road Runners have several individual twist in light sockets that supply light for the speedometer, gauges, oil pressure, turn signals, brake, etc. They are located on the back of the instrument panel and can be removed from under the dash by simply turning them a partial turn and removing. First disconnect your battery for electrical safety and look up under the dash. They are black rectangular looking sockets. They use a plug-in light bulb that can still be purchased at most parts stores or Mopar restoration parts dealers. If you have some dash lights you may need to just replace some bulbs. If you have a service manual there are some good pictures of the back of the instrument panel and the location of the sockets.


Check the ground wire coming from the dash to the body


Have you checked the fuses? And the light bulbs? The high beam indicater is probably a burnt out bulb. The panel dimmer switch usually acts up, and that will keep the dash lights from working. Try moving the dimmer wheel back and forth. It could need replaced. The dash lights are on the same circuit as the tail lights, so if you have working tail lights, there should be power for the dash lights.


There is a 5 volt transformer that plugs into the back of the dash that changes the voltage for your bulbs and accessories. Advance Auto can order it. They usually run 12.00 dollars. It has 2 or 3 prongs and is oval shaped.

Sept. 7, 2006

The pinion nut on my 4-speed 1970 Road Runner 8 3/4 posi backed off (new 411 gears were added in the 80's) causing not only a leak, (the flange moves back 1/4")but also made the worst noise while in gear. The 1970 service manual says after taking off driveshaft, draining fluid, removing parking brake struts, all nuts, the axles slide out and clear the differential so the rearend can be removed. My axles won't budge. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong or have missed? After I do get them out and inspect the drive gear and pinion, do I need to take the differential to a shop for pinion bearing preload and pinion setting? What else do I need to know?

When you said you removed all bolts I assume you mean the nuts around each axle flange. You need to use a socket and extension to go through the axle stud flange hole and turning the axle, remove each nut holding the axle flange to the rear-end housing. The axles have a seal and sometimes take a little coaxing to get it broken loose. Both axles should pull out of the rear-end housing with the flange, gasket and bearing as an assembly. You can then simply remove the rear-end center section. Use a jack for support, it fairly heavy. You should have a professional set up your gears. There are a lot of adjustments such as carrier bearing adjustments, pinion depth, pinion preload, backlash and others that all work together for a quite rear end. If your car has the adjustment spanner nut on one of the axle flanges to adjust the axle side play be sure to get instruction on how to set it when you re-install the axles and don’t forget to use the clamp to keep it from turning.


If the real-end isn't the C clip type,your going to have to use a slide hammer to get the axels out.

Sept. 6, 2006

We have a 1969 Road Runner and the VIN says it has a 383 RM21H9A3259 but the hood has 440 emblems. Is there a way to tell if the engine is a 440 or a 383? Maybe something unique that is visual between them. Thanks.

If the VIN shows 383 then its a 383 car. 1969 Road Runners never came with a 440 4 bbl - only 6 bbl - and if equipped with the 6 bbl engine they were also equipped with the fiberglass hood with the scoop on it. All someone has done to your car is put 440 emblems from a GTX on it. These emblems are readily available from a number of sources.


It’s very simple. Looking at the engine, just in front of the intake manifold, to the left of the drivers side cylinder head, just behind the water pump housing and just to the right of the distributor clamp, if it is a 440 “raised block”, you will see a raised machined pad about 1” x 2” with the “440” stamped in it. The 383 (also the 361 and 400 ) engines are considered a “Lo Block”, are physically a couple of inches more narrow than the 440’s (also the 413 and 426 ) and do not have the raised machined pad. The 383’s have the 383 stamped in a machined pad to the left and just under the distributor and in front of the passenger side cylinder head.

Sept. 4, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner. I am trying to find the right speedometer gear for the tires I have on the car now. Seems the speedometer isn't correct. Speedomoter shows I am going faster than I actually am. I have a 4.10:1 rear axle ratio and the tires are P295/50 R15. I have a 30 tooth speedomoter gear on it now. Any help that anyone can give me or at least point me in the right direction for this information would be appreciated. The chart on Year One doesn't show my size tires. Thanks for any help!

Go to MyMopar.com and on the right side click on “downloads”. Find the Chassis and Drive Train section and click on the Speedometer Gear Selection Guide. They have their chart set up by tire diameter in inches and rear end ratio. All you need to do is measure the diameter of your tire along with your rear end ratio and find the speedometer gear that is the closest to your tire/gear combination. If your combination is between two gears, I would go with the smaller as it will make your speedometer read slightly faster. This might give you a slight cushion for your encounters with the dreaded RADAR. Be sure to check your speedometer through a measured mile @ 60 mph after you install the new gear. You should cover the mile in 60 seconds.

Aug. 31, 2006

Does anyone know what the value of a 1972 Road Runner would be without engine or tranny? The body is all original and in really good shape. What you think?

Aug. 31, 2006

Can Anyone tell me where I can get a new horn assembly that has the flat copper disk in he steering column? It maks contact to a roller to operate the horn. The old one has a gove worn in it that wore down the copper so the horn only works in a couple of positions. I can not find anyone that carries that part. Thanks

If you are looking for an original horn assembly you can either keep a check on Ebay under whatever car you are dealing with (68 Road Runner, etc.) or you may check with Tony’s Parts (www.tonysparts.com) in Delaware. He has a really good stock of old parts and has helped me with my projects many times. If you are looking to install a replacement wheel, such as Grant, the horn kits normally come with everything you need new.

Aug. 30, 2006

I recently purchased a 1970 Satellite with a 383. The car will not start after I run it for a while (30 mins or so). It acts like the neutral safety switch isn't working. No electricity to the starter. I let it cool for five mins or so and it starts up just fine. Anyone ever seen this? I'm thinking it's electrical in some manner, but not sure what it is? Solenoid? Thanks.

It sounds like the starter is getting heat soaked. The starter solenoid is part of the starter itself and because of that it can get very hot and if this happens the car won't start. Do you have headers on the car? If so you may need to install some kind of heat shield around the starter. If not I'd say its time to replace the starter because the solenoid is going bad. I'd recommend a swap to a mini starter because they are higher torque and will kick the engine over faster. I'm running one on my road runner with tti headers and it starts right up every time, even with 36 degrees of advance in the distributor. A stock starter would choke on a load like that.


Sounds like the netural switch. Have you tried jumping the silonend? Make sure the plug is on the switch good, look for broken wires too.


You might have already gotten an answer, but I don't see one posted. Sounds like it's the resister (thermal resister I believe). Sounds like it's getting too hot... make sure no connections are loose which would cause slight arcing and create heat.

Aug. 29, 2006

I have a 1970 Plymouth GTX, 440 - 6 bbl, 4 spd, I was told it was an early production car, I am missing the original radiator, I was told that it was 26 inches and had 3 cores, can someone tell me the correct part number(s) for this radiator? Thanks, Steve

Aug. 26, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner. It has bucket seats and is a post car. Does anyone know which stick is correct for the hurst 4 speed shifter? I have seen round ones, rectangle ones and some shorter than others and also how do you get the stick out of the shifter?

The correct bucket seat stick is the round shaft, single bend version. The dual bend sticks with the flat bar at the bottom are for console applications and the shorter ones you've seen are most likely for E-bodies. The Pistol Grips had a rectangular shaft.

Aug. 23, 2006

I put a six pack on a 1969 Road Runner, but I need a diagram for the kickdown linkage, can anyone help?

Aug. 21, 2006

Hello, thanks again for providing this wonderfull forum. I have a question regarding paint codes. I am trying to recondition my 1968 Road Runner dash, and I am wondering if you could tell me the correct paint to use. My car was QQ1 with med blue interior. I hope I have provided enough information. Thanks in advance for your assistance. Steve.

Aug. 21, 2006

Recently, I found a 1971 Challenger. 340/4 4-speed. Plum crazy. I purchased this beauty at the right price knowing that the engine's VIN stamp isn't matching. The casting numbers in the block do appear to be date correct and it is the proper 340/4. What I can't figure out is why the VIN stamp is suffixed with the letter "R". Does the "R" indicate anything special, such as dealer "Replacement"? Thanks in advance for any help, Brian

Aug. 21, 2006

I have a 1968 Road Runner and have a question about the rear leaf springs. I want to install a new set of polygraphite bushings into the original springs [at the large end near the front]. When I attempted to remove the old rubber & the metal bushing sleeve, the rubber came out but not the sleeve. In talking to PST, they tell me the polygraphite bushings are made to directly go into the spring holes without the sleeve. Here is my question: Does anyone know where I can get the part [Tool C-3729] to push out the sleeve to replace the bushings or how they got out the sleeve to update the bushing? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, Randy Hlavac

If you dont have a hydrolic press laying around, you can take a Hacksaw and cut one line all the way through the bushing. Once you have gone all the way through the bushing to the actual spring metal, you will have relieved the pressure of the bushing on the spring. You will be able to punch out the bushing easily using a hammer and chisle.

Aug. 19, 2006

I have a 1970 Road Runner & I'm making it a console shift automatic. I have all the parts but I would like a picture of the parts assembley list with all the bushings and washers ect... The reason is I sent the parts out to be rechromed and the vendor diassembled everything and I really don't remember how all the springs and other parts go together. If you can help or let me know if there is a good publication I can purchase I will be forever gratefull.

The only suggestion I have is to get a copy of the correct shop manual for your Runner. It may have a breakdown showing the assembly of the console.

Aug. 18, 2006

Does anyone out there know how many 1969 Road Runners were manufactured with the vinyl tops? Is this rare or not? Any input would be appreciated. Thank You, Paula

Check with Galen Govier. I've mentioned him many times on this website. His website is http://www.gvgovier.com/. He can tell you if anyone can.

Aug. 17, 2006

I have a 1971 Road Runner. I have the the jack but not the hook. Does anybody know if the hook is interchangable for all years? If not does anybody know the part number on the hook that does fit my 1971 so I'll know the correct one when I see it? Thanks

Aug. 17, 2006

Did they make a Road Runner with a fabric on the body of the car?

Aug. 12, 2006

I have a 1977 440. The only orginial parts on the engine is rods and pistons. I need to know what I need to adjust my heads to. I have a mild cam and and I changed rocker arms to roller rocker arms. Does anyone know where I can find this information?

Well, I'm not sure what you mean by "adjust your heads" unless you are talking about milling them down. If that is the case and you have the original low compression pistons still in the engine the thing to do would be to place some modeling clay on 1 of the pistons (about .2" to .3" thick), install the head (with a steel shim gasket), cam & rockers, pushrods and lifters for that particular cylinder and rotate the engine through 3-5 revolutions and pull it all apart and inspect the clay to see how much piston to valve clearance you have. It may be best to buy 2 adjustable pushrods and 2 solid lifters to do this since the hydraulic lifters will bleed down a little. Once you know your clearances - and there should be a lot - you can then determine how much to mill the heads. A mill of .050" should be ok with the stock pistons. Just be sure to remove 0.12" off the intake manifold seating area of the head for every .010" you take off the head surface. In other words, mill the heads .050" off the head surface and .060" off the intake manifold mounting surface. This will keep you from having a mis-match when you go to bolt on the intake. You should pick up about 1/2 point of compression with a .050" cut which will help a little on a low compression 440. Also, remember that you may need a custom length pushrod now that you have milled the heads. Use the adjustable length pushrod to check.

Aug. 10, 2006

How does a guy go about getting the quarter glass out of a 1970 Road Runner I've removed all the screws that I can see but it will not budge.

Never had a '970, but I assume it would be the same as a 1968 & 1969. Once you take the rear door panel out, there are two small bolts that go thru the bottom of the glass to the window regulater.Take them out, and the window pulls right out.

Aug. 8, 2006

Will the 1969 Road Runner fresh air system mount to a 1968 Road Runner hood?

Yes it should mount, but you will have to do some trimming on the hood where the inserts go. The 1969 hood inserts won't fit. When I got my '69, I thought it just had '68 inserts, so I picked up a pair of '69s. I had to trim some of the metal so they would fit.

Aug. 7, 2006

I have a 1970 Road Runner can anyone explain to me how to remove the glove box latch. There must be a trick to it, Thanks.

Aug. 7, 2006

I have a problem I am unable to solve, though I think it might be relatively simple to someone who is not mechanically declined like me. My 1969 383 Road Runner won't start, and won't even turn over unless you arc across some relay under the hood with a screwdirver. This, from what I understand, bypasses the solenoid. I have no dome lights, no headlights, no power at all whatsoever to the car, and I can't get it to start, only turn over by arcing it. Any suggestions? What could this problem be? Any help is greatly appreciated. Clay Fees

There is a wire known as the "fusible link" which attaches to the starter relay. If this wire is bad you will have no power to the interior as you describe and the car will not start. Go to www.yearone.com and check it out. They may even have a wiring diagram available for you to review but I'm not sure. If not I can scan one from my shop manual if there is a diagram there. Year One has fusible link wires available for sale also. The relay you are arcing is the starter relay. It does not bypass the solenoid as the solenoid is built into the starter. What you are bypassing is the starter switch circuit. The car will turn over but not start because the key is not turned to the "on" position. Try putting the key into the ignition and turning it to the "on" position" and then try arcing the starter relay as before to see if it will fire up. If it does you may just have a bad switch. If not, the problem is elsewhere and could well be either the fusible link or possibley there is corrosion in the master wiring harness box on the firewall. If these things don't pan out then its time to take it to a good auto electrician.


The infamous ballast resistor. These have a history being good and then simply being bad a minute later, my first experience was in a 66 charger approaching a stop light. The enire car just died, like their was a ufo over my head. The ballast resistor is small ceramic resistor mounted on the firewall, to the left (standing in front looking at the engine bay) of the wiper motor. It's about 4" long by 3/4" wide. Still readily available for a few bucks. Check it with multi-meter to be sure but I'll bet that's the problem. Good luck.

Aug. 7, 2006

I have a 68 Road Runner with a 383...what is the correct color of the battery caps? I believe that it is red but not 100% sure.

The Group 24 battery came in a 48 (Cold Cranking) Amps with Green Caps, a 59 Amp with Yellow Caps and the Group 27 battery had 70 Amps and Red Caps.


The battery caps were either red or yellow depending on what your buiild sheet called for. If you have the build sheet, contact Galen Govier at http://www.gvgovier.com/ and he can verify that for you.

Aug. 5, 2006

I have a Superbird with motor missing, I need to know what date motor I should use in this car?

If memory serves me, the Superbird was made only in 1970. But I could be wrong. So you would need a motor dated for that year Superbird.

Aug. 5, 2006

My parking lights go off when the headlights come on. I know that '68s are suppose to, but I thought '69s are suppose to stay on with the headlights? Any ideas? Thanks

The parking lamps are supposed to stay on when the headlights come on. Sounds like a faulty switch.

July 30, 2006

1. I have a 1971 Satellite and was wondering how difficult it is to clone a Road Runner out of it (exterior only), as it has a 400 4BBL engine and a 727 tranny in it already that both run VERY well. Is it just a matter of emblems etc then? I ask this because it was the only Satellite I have heard of that was originally built with the "plum crazy" color option.
2. Can anybody tell me if the T-shifter was the shifter used for the console in either the 1971 model of Satellite or Road Runner, or was it a button shifter? Finally, this may sound a little naive (yes I am VERY new at this), but was wondering if anybody knows why parts are so tough to find for these cars (71 Satellite/Road Runner).

It's pretty easy to clone a Satellite into a Road Runner - except if the Satellite emblems have posts in them. This will mean there are holes in the panels where the emblems are and they will need to be filled and the panels repainted. If the emblems are attached with adhesive it will be easier to change things over, but you may still find that you'll need a repaint because the paint under the emblem will not have the same fading as the rest of the panel. Check with Year One for Road Runner emblem placement and also for Road Runner stripe options. Their web address is www.yearone.com.

The '71 models with auto and console did indeed have the "T" handle "Slap Stik" shifter. My '71 Charger SE was so equipped. I love that Slap Stik - it was the best stock shifter ever made during the muscle car era in my opinion. They are also available at Year One if I am not mistaken.

The reason parts are hard to come by is that for a long time the post 1971 models were not as popular as the 1970 and prior models. Another reason is that far fewer of these models were produced so there is not a large consumer base to market to as a result. Parts are still available in the used market - try Texas Acres www.texasacres.com or Desert Valley Auto Parts www.dvap.com and they should be able to help. Also get some magazines like Mopar Collector's Guide, Mopar Muscle and Hemmings Motor News as these publications have lots of resources for new and used parts.
You can subscribe to these magazines at the HHStore. Click here to go to the store.

July 28, 2006

I have recently purchased a 1973 Satellite Sebring Plus with the 318 small block and three speed transmission. I have a 1970 HiPo 383 with a 727 trans from a Road Runner.I was wondering if buying 1973 440 Road Runner motor mounts would make the application work. I'm not really sure if the K-members are the same between the Satellites and Road Runners in 1973. My 383 is wait for its new home any info would be much appreciated. Thanks.

You can keep your existing K-member but you'll need new custom engine mounts. Call Schumacher Creative Services 206-364-7151 or go to their website www.engine-swaps.com. they have 73 & up A,B,F,M & J body V8 and slant 6 to B/RB mounts - just what you are looking for. Yeah, they are somewhat expensive at $150 + $12 s & h but they include powder coated brackets, insulators, & bolts. If yours is a spool type mount the kit includes brackets, polyurethane inserts and bolts. It's quality stuff.

July 27, 2006

Does anyone know of a source for car bra for a 1969 Road Runner? Also, if they are made, has anyone used one and were you satisfied with the protection they provided and the ease of installation and removal? Thanks very much.

July 25, 2006

I have a 1968 Sport Satellite with a 318. I'm installing a Mopar Performance electronic ignition kit with the vaccum advance distributor. After following the directions on the instruction sheet and triple checking all connections and pretiming procedures I've yet to get the car to start. When I removed the old cap I left the wires attached and could swear that the firing order is not the same as the stock 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. The car ran very smooth but, unfortunately I didn't mark the other end of the wires so I could see which plug they were attached to. Is there any way that a change in the firing order could have been made with any engine modifications? Or, am I missing something simple? Another thing I noticed is that the old cap had the #1 spark plug one move to the left in relation to the new caps #1 position. I was thinking this is because of the position of the coil and its possible interference with vaccum advance when turning the distributor.

The fireing order wont change.If you took out the distributor,make sure its not 180 out.Bring the #1 piston to TDC and see if the rotor is pointing to #1 on the cap.If not,just turn the rotor 180 degrees and put it back.Check the firing order again,and you should be good to go.


Go get a Chilton's or Motor's manual that shows the firing order. Remove your cap and wires and pull the wires from the cap, then reinstall the cap. Using the firing order diagram, reinstall your spark plug wires one at a time from the cap to the plug. This will tell solve any problems in relation to whether or not your wiring got crossed. I've also had trouble with the Orange box control modules. A friend of mine with a 440 installed his setup and it would not fire. He had a spare chrome box so he installed it and the car fired instantly. You might just have a bum control box. I know it might cost more money but go get a Borg Warner control box and give it a try if it still doesn't fire after you make sure the plug wires are installed correctly. My Orange control box failed on me and I had a spare Borg Warner (it was among some spare parts that came with the car when I bought it) so I installed it and I've had no trouble since.

July 23, 2006

I need to know how to put a gas tank on my 1973.

A Chilton's or Motor's manual can help as well as a shop manual.


Prepare the car so you work under it safely. REMEMBER, you are working with gas so be careful not to create a spark. Carefully remove the gas, remove the gas lines and vent tubes attached to the front of the tank and any wires for the fuel gauge. Position a jack under the tank or get some help holding the tank. Remove the two straps that hold the tank in the car, remove the tank. Install the new tank in reverse order. Before you install a new tank, get the proper gas pickup assembly and gaskets with the gas gauge. Follow instruction carefully as far as installing the float assembly. Use new gas lines and clamps, keep everything clean. Check for leaks before driving.

July 20, 2006

I have 2 1972 Satellite Sebring Plus parts cars. Did these models come with sure grip rear ends? How can I tell without pulling the covers and even then, how do I tell?

If memeory serves, jack one of the rear tires up, and with the car in gear, you should not be able to turn the rear wheel if it is a sure grip. Also, there is supposed to be a metal tag on one of the center section/cover bolts.

July 20, 2006

I have a 1967 Coronet It had rust in the trunk at the 11 O'clock position looking down at the spare tire cavity. I had to build a patch panel for the car because i could not find one. My question is a patch panel availible for a 66 67 b body or not? If not is there not enough demand for them? Thanks.

July 18, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner 383 automatic, where do I look and how can I tell if the motor is numbers matching? Where do I look on the block? Thanks, Steve

On the 1969 383 block you will find the VIN stamp on the passenger side below the engine mount on the block immediately above the oil pan. There is a small machined pad on the block on what is called the oil pan rail (this is where the oil pan and block meet). You may need some carb cleaner and a small brush to clean the area if it is a bit gunky. The numbers are not more than 0.1" high so you'll also probably need a flashlight to read them.


If the last 4 numbers on the block are the same as the last 4 numbers on the VIN, chances are the engine came with the car.

July 17, 2006

Can anyone recomend 2 good books? One, a good book where someone has done their homework and made a correct parts numbers and parts that interchange between the 426 and 440? Two, a great book with detailed info. on how to restore a 1969 Road Runner or b-body? Thank you for the help.

This website has a publication section that has several great restoration books. All of them are a great source of information for just about every section of your car. I purchased several and before I started my restoration on my 68 Runner I read them, many times, to pick out the information I needed for my particular car.

July 15, 2006

I have a 1974 Road Runner with a 440 and a/c, looking for a diagram or a blowup on power steering mounting harware and brackets.

July 14, 2006

Where can I find the paint for 71 Road Runner? And, how can I tell by the VIN numbers?

you need to find the fender tag to get the paint code.It should be on the drivers side inner fender, or possibly on the drivers side of the radiator support. It is a metal tag, approx. 2"x4".

July 14, 2006

I am restoring a 1969 Road Runner and have all the glass out except for the vent wing and frame. Can one of you Mopar guys or girls help me out? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also is there a book on disassembling body parts?

OK. Open your door. Looking at the interior side of your door, just below and to the front of the vent assembly, there are two plastic body plugs. Behind these are two bolts for the frame. Next, below the vent window, there is a small plastic plus, about the size of the end of an ink pen. behind this is an allen bolt. On the front of the door, hidden by the fender when the door is closed, are two nuts that go to the vent frame. On the underside of the door, is a nut that goes to the bottom of the frame. By your post, you already have the door glass out. If not, this would need to come out first.

July 13, 2006

I am restoring a 1969 Road Runner with the V-21 performance hood paint. Does anyone know if this was just your basic flat black paint or was it something else?

Year One has your flat black paint. Its called Organosol. Contact them at www.yearone.com.

July 13, 2006

THE CAR: 1972 Sebring PLUS-------The question----Hello all my fellow Sebring Plus owners out there! Can anyone please tell me anything you can about under the hood decal placement. I`m mostly puzzled about the Coolant Warning decal, is it yellow in 72, or is it the red, white and blue one? Also, where exactly does it go on the radiator brace? Any info on the power brake booster decal, the Year One catalog says #88 is supposed to be there. Thanks for your help, Tony

July 11, 2006

Hi, I need to konw the color codes for the following. The Dana rear end, the power straring box, sway bars and the K-member. I have done some looking and they all seem to be a gloss or semi gloss black. However, the steering box seems to have a brown tint. Anyone know where I can find this info? Hopefully they will all be the same color. Thanks for the help!

July 11, 2006

Hi, I am considering buying a 440ci Chrysler engine. I am told it was made in 1973 it is .060 over, it has not run for a few years and probably needs a rebuild. The only thing it is missing is the carb and distributer. How much do you think its worth?

That 440 won't be worth much if it is already .060 over and needs a rebuild. 60 over is as far as you want to go, so unless you are going to install a sleeve in each cylinder (which is expensive) it would be best to pass on it.

July 11, 2006

I have a 1971 Plymouth Satelite Sebring with 383 and recently removed that big cluck of a/c compressor and also replaced the pulleys. But now one the alternator field wires goes up in smoke even before the motor turns over. The field wire happens to be the two black wires that are connected together at the alternator plug. I believe it's the 18DBL wire. I replaced the alternator brushes. Car starts Ok and stays on OK, but do not want to drive it cause who knows what might happen. Can you help or has anybody else experienced this? Can somebody please let me know? Thanks a lot.

Read your question on thr RR Site. If your car has stock wiring,one wire from the "F" terminal should be green(to volt. reg), and the other "F" terminal should be blue/white tracer going to the ballest resister. It would be different if the car had points. Hope this helps.

July 6, 2006

Is there a good cable replacement for the Z-bar clutch linkage (which I am tired of having come apart)?

July 2, 2006

Where can I find a good wiring schematic for a 1968 Road Runner? I found some in the books I have but they are for 69 and up. I don't know if it would be the same and they are somewhat incomplete. Any info on this would be nice. I bought a project R/R with no motor or trans. When I set the motor and trans in the motor is off on the passenger side about an inch. I don't know if that's normal or if I have the wrong motor mounts. The trans I had built doesn't line up with the trans crossmember, it sits about 3 inches forward. I don't know if I have the wrong crossmember or if the 727 is for a truck, I thought they were all pretty much the same housing. If you know something I don't bring me into the circle. Thanks, T. Frazier

For your schematic go to Year One - www.yearone.com. You can either order online or call them. Their phone number is on their website.


You can get a colored wiring diagram from ClassicWiring.Com.Its great,and easy to follow. Try switching the mounts from one side to the other. The threaded end of the mounts should be opposite of each other.

July 2, 2006

How can you tell visually a push button vs a column shift 727, or serial numbers???

Your question is somewhat ambiguous. Are you looking for serial number ID or visual ID? Visual ID is easy. Column shift is on the steering column and push button is on the dash, left of the steering wheel.

July 1, 2006

I have a 1974 Satellite Sebring Plus with a factory sunroof. The headliner is completely out of the car and I don't know if this year had bows or a shell with foam glued to it. HELP!!!! Ron Boen, Minot, ND

July 1, 2006

I bought a new 1974 Road Runner back in January 1974 and now am interested in finding it. I have the original owners club card which has the VIN - RM21G4G158657 It was bought from Foster-Kardane Plymouth in Doylestown, Pa. Any information on how to locate this vin would be greatly appreciated. Phone-678-777-2669

Your best bet is to contact a local private investigator. He can search for it for you but it may be pricey, especially if you have no idea what state it is now located in. It could take some time to find - or who knows - you may just get lucky and find it in the same state you were in when you sold it.

July 1, 2006

I have a 1972 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus with only 55,000 miles on it. Everything is original, and it's in incredible shape. What's it worth to me?

Go get a copy of The Old Car Buyers Guide. It will tell you the value of your car.

June 29, 2006

I have a 1969 Road Runner which I got from family. I have no fender tag or dash tag due to thieves. Where on the car can I find the VIN? I don't have the build sheet either. Does anyone know if the following is true, there is a VIN on drivers frame rail, rad support & around trunk weather stripping? If these exist & are legible, does anyone reproduce the missing tags?

If the original engine and/or transmission are still in the car, the last numeric digits of the vin number are on them. You may find the number also on the radiator support. If you can locate one of the numbers, you will probably need to check with your local DMV to see their procedure to provide you with a new vin tag. The first part of your numbers will be a RM23 for a hardtop or a RM21 for a coupe (tilt out rear windows). The other numbers or letters will tell you where the car was built (such as a “G” for St.Louis) and the engine that it originally came with (such as a “H” for the 383). This website has a VIN decoder if you find the numbers. Yearone.com also has a good breakdown as to the VIN letters on their website.


Yes, you can get fender tags made.
Contact Galen Govier: http://www.gvgovier.com/
If anyone can help you he can.

June 28, 2006

How many 340 Road Runners were made in 1971?

Check with Galen Govier. I've mentioned him more times on this site than I can count. His website is http://www.gvgovier.com/. He can tell you if anyone can.

June 28, 2006

I have a 1970 Satellite with power windows. None of the windows work and I traced down the "Hot" for the master windows button cluster (Tan wire) to a small square box that is connected to the dash on the left side of the steering column. I feel that this "box" is bad but I don't know what the official name for it is to find a replacement. Also, where would I find a replacement? Thanks.

June 27, 2006

I am restoring a 1968 Road Runner hardtop the code on the fender plate is: RM23 62 5 44 523 314118 Trim is: H4X Paint is:999. I can not find this paint code for '68 but it does exist for '69. Could this be a mid-year change or am I looking at a swapped fender plate? The car is orange and during the stripping, there is no evidence that it was ever any other color. Vin: RM23H8E160773 Any help is appreciated.

Your VIN # indicates the car is a '68 medium price class 2 door hardtop made in Los Angeles with a 383 4 barrel. Your fender tag does not appear to match the VIN. The last set of numbers on the VIN (sequential serial number) should also appear on the fender tag. You should be seeing additional letters along with all the numbers. Is it possible to take a rubbing or a picture and email it to me. I'd be happy to check into it further for you as I have a lot of reference material for the roadrunners. Also, the only reference I have found regarding the 999 code is for special order wheels.

June 27, 2006

Can anyone tell me why panel manufacturers are shying away from providing rear quarters for the 71-72 Roadrunners? There are alot of these cars out there and it has got to be a good investment for them. If there is, (and I havent found them yet) could someone let me know? I have an otherwise good car that someone got upset with rust repair and cut the thing right out. (bummer)

Try some other vendors for used rust free parts like Texas Acres. there are tons of places to find good used body parts. Go pick up a Mopar Collector's Guide magazine or Mopar Muscle magazine and check the vendors advertising in these mags. Also pick up a copy of Hemmings Motor News. You can usually find these periodicals at your local bookseller. If they don't have them they can get them for you.

June 26, 2006

I'm replacing the dash pad in my 69 Road Runner and have the new one ready to go. Should I use black silcone to secure the pad or just secure the bolts on the backside? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

If you use the silicone you'll have a hard time getting it back off if you ever need to. I just use the sheet metal nuts and tighten them up. I've never had a problem with mine.


I used the retaining nuts. When I did mine, I only used the nuts that I could reach with the radio, heater control, and glove box removed. I had to replace mine twice after the first one cracked. This saved me from removing the instrument cluster, and the pad is secure enough with the other nuts, so there's no squeaks.


Take it from somebody whos been there. Just use the nuts on the studs. Silicone has a habit of bubbling and not drying evenly. You dont want to do it all over again.

June 26, 2006

Is it possible to swap a front bumper from a 1972 onto a 1973?

No, sorry they are not interchangeable as the 1972 had a halo style bumper ie: surrounded the grill...the 1973 and 1974 bumbers were a more conventional style. Hope this helps.

June 25, 2006

Ok I bought an alternator from Auto Zone, it says it has an iternal. When I hook it up do I connect a short wire to the two contacts?

June 21, 2006

Does anyone know the correct part number for the chrome oil breather that came standard on the 1968 GTX with the 440 engine?

I don’t know the part number but Tony’s Auto Parts (tonysparts.com) has the replated oil caps. I got one for mine and it was a nice piece.

June 21, 2006

What color do you paint your brake drums? My old restoration guide says they should be stainless steel color, but most Road Runners I've seen are painted an unknown red color. I may have them powder coated the correct color. Thanks.

Depends on what you want. Most guys painted the drums red, "back in the day." That's what I've always done. Of course, it depends on the car's color too.


Go to Restomotive Laboratories' website and get their Metal Mask paint product. It looks like bare steel and protects your drums from rusting.
Click here

June 19, 2006