Dec. 30, 2005

Need help in finding RM21H9G212310. It's an A4 silver bird sole new from Buckstaff Motor Co. in Longview, TX on 2/15/1969. The last time I saw her was 1974 in Wilmington, NC. Any ideas?

Dec. 29, 2005

I have a 1968 Road Runner and I also have bucket seats and a center console with the shifter on the floor. Just wondering if somthing isn't right. The hood that is on it has the Hemi emblems and a lot of things about the car just are not adding up, could I have an orignal Hemi car?

Look for the VIN numbers on the drivers side top of the dash (right at the corner of the A-pillar and the dash) - you'll see it as you look down through the windshield. Write it down and then come back here to this site and use the VIN decoder. Also look for the numbers on the radiator support (you may need to remove the radiator.) The numbers should be the same. If they aren't then you have a rebadged car which is a fraudulent practice and a crime. Hemi badges on the hood don't mean anything - anyone could have placed them on the car. They are available from a number of sources. You need to check the VIN and build sheet if you have it. That will tell you all you need to know.


If it is a Hemi car, the 5th digit of the VIN will be a J. It will also have a Dana rear end.

Dec. 29, 2005

I'm rebuilding the engine in my 1972 Road Runner. I've replaced all stock for more performance parts. I was wondering if anyone had any ideas about a good torque converter.

Torque converter ugrading depends on a lot of things like: compression, cam, exhaust (headers, pipe size, etc.), gear ratio, vehicle weight and tire diameter. I mention the engine and exhaust because you said you did upgrades but how much additional power are you putting out? Do you really know? Weight and gear ratio are also highly important. A heavy car with a 3.23 or worse (2.91, say) will be a slug no matter what converter you put in it. Tire diameter plays a big part, too. A soft (2.91-3.23) gear ratio and tall tires make for low rpms and slow starts. Tall tires can make a 4.10 gear seem like a 3.55 so you need to know all this information. The best thing to do is call the tech hotlines of the various manufacturers, tell them your setup and be VERY specific as to your setup. If you don't know how much your car weighs then either find out or look at some liiterature (road tests, etc) from when the car was new and make an educated guess. Let them make a recommendation for you based on what you tell them. Call TCI, B & M, Mancini Racing (they can help you with a Mopar Performance or other converters) just to name a few. Go to Jegs website or Summit Racing's website to see what manufacturers are available and do some leg work of your own. If you go on someone else's recommendation and it doesn't pan out you'll be sorry. You need to take some responsibility on this issue and educate yourself so you can make a wise decision. Getting the wrong part here will make you very, very sorry. An educated consumer is a happy consumer.

Dec. 28, 2005

I own a 1972 Satellite Sebring 2-dr V8 318 5.2L. I've got a couple questions? Hopefully you guys have some answers.
1) Is the Satellite considered a muscle car? I've heard a lot of opinions and would like some more. Please give list of reasons in your response.
2) Can you suggest some good websites for tracking down replacement parts? Salvage, old new stock, or reproductions are all fine with me.
3) Do you know what rims were avaiable on the 72 Satellite? Was there other options? I've got the standard rims with hub caps. I was thinking about getting sport rims and thought I might try to keep the car "stock" to some degree. Does anyone know where to get said rims at reasonable prices?
Thanks, Pat

Cars that are considered "Muscle Cars" are called so because they pack muscle(horsepower). A 318 powered anything wouldn't be considered a muscle car. You do however have the advantage of owning a body style that could have had a 340, 400 or 440 so you could simply clone your car into a "muscle car". Have fun.

Dec. 24, 2005

I have a 1968 Satellite and have just pulled the motor. The inner fender panels are shot and was wondering if there are any things to watch out for when replacing them with new panels. Looks like drilling out all the spot welds and pulling off would be easiest. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Dec. 23, 2005

I have to walk a way from my Road Runner to think. Why when the engine is cold, and I give it throttle it back fires through the carburetor? It seems to have hesitation when pressing on the throttle. Also, it's like it's fluttering. I adjusted the timing to top dead center, helped a little. I tried a 600 cfm and 750 cfm, they both have manual chokes. And, used the metal plate and 2 gaskets on carburetor, used 2 gaskets between intake manifold. Still the same after it warms up to about 195 degrees. It seems okay. I can't really check the drive with snow on ground. I did use the valley pan with heat block off. I am frustrated, my beautiful air grabber air cleaner and base did not fit under the hood after the 440. Question: Do the 440 GTXs have air grabber hood and duct? I got an after market air cleaner with a 2 inch drop its ugly.

Sorry to hear you are having troubles. Maybe this will help.
1. The valley pan gasket you are using is definitely the wrong one for cold weather use. You need the one with the holes for the heat riser. What you are experiencing is a lack of atomization of the fuel in the intake. Cold weather cause the fuel droplets in the air/fuel mix to remain liquid instead af vaporizing. The heat in the intake helps cause atomization/vaporization to occur. As you say the car runs better when warm which is typical of all carbureted cars in the cold weather. Use a valley pan with the heat riser holes and it will help. The car will still run poorly when cold but it the carb will warm up faster and run better sooner. When I lived in Ft. Wayne, IN many years ago and drove my road runner daily it was always a challenge in winter because mine didn't have a choke at all so I had to sit in it until it warmed up - anywhere from 5 -10 minutes depending on how cold it was. Cold weather and carbs don't mix well. The bottom line is you'll just have to wait until its warmed up if you want to drive it in the cold.
2. As for the GTX with the 440 - yes they came with air grabber setups. The problem is your intake is too tall. Mopoar Performance makes an aluminum 2 plane intake that looks like the factory stocker but is a new design and makes more horsepower. It is the same height as the stocker so it should work with your stock air grabber setup. Its another $200 or so but if you want to run your air grabber setup its the only way to go. Unfortunately you'll have to spend more money but you can always sell the stuff you have now and try to offset the additional expense.

Dec. 21, 2005

In 1973, I owned a 1969 Road Runner 383ci, red with a white vinyl top. The interior had white bucket seats with an auto trans in the console. Has anybody ran across a Road Runner with these specs?

Dec. 15, 2005

I need help hidden parts for my 1969 Road Runner. I need magizines, web sites anything. What I really need is a new wire harness. Any info will help.

Your question has been answered many, many times in this website. First look through all the emails in this bulletin board section, current and past years. Secondly, order any of a number of information and restoration books from this website, yearone.com, Jims Auto Parts, Jacks Auto Parts, Totally Auto, etc. They will give you an excellent source of information. Then, search on the web with searches such as "Mopar Restoration" or "Mopar parts", etc. You will have more information than you will know what to do with. I currently have about 15 different parts sources in my "favorites" Most all the restoration houses, such as YearOne, have chassis parts, body, interior, electrical including all the wire harness, brakes, exhaust, engine, transmission, etc. for a wide selection of muscle cars. Good luck in your project....

Dec. 14, 2005

I have a 1969 Road Runner. The driver side front frame rail on the inside is rusted through. It's below the shock tower and behind the K member. It appears to be ok on the bottom and the outside. Should I have a flat metal piece welded in on the inside or should I get a Safety cap? Please help me!!!

Contact Auto Rust Technicians 1-944-4444 www.autorust.com for their Frame Repair Kit for you car. They have everything you need to do the job right.

Dec. 12, 2005

I am finishing up the resoration of my 1969 Road Runner and I am uncertain of what goes in the hole just to the right of the ac/air slide controls. It is under the dash over hang just as the ac,air slide controls are, what is suppose to fill the hole? Thanks, Mike

If you are speaking of the hole under the dash pad, in the metal part of the dash, just to the right of the temperature and blower controls, there should be either a dash map light or a panel to cover the hole. You can find the map lights (I've seen 4-5) on Ebay and the wiring hookup from the factory manual. My 68 did not come with the light (it was an option) so mine just has the cover plate.

Dec. 12, 2005

I lowered my gear ratio to 3:91. I purchased a new speedo gear for my 727. Is this speedo gear a simple swap or do I have to be worried about a bunch of small parts comin out when I remove it? It's a 1969 Road Runner. Thanks

Many of the restoration parts houses (such as YearOne) have a kit to install the speedometer gear. It think it is just a few O-Rings and gasket. It is very cheap insurance for preventing a possible leak. When you remove the clamp holding the speedometer gear in the transmission, I believe everything just slides out together. Just install your new gear and your new O-Rings and reassemble. I don't remember it being a big deal.


It's a simple swap - piece of cake. I did it on my '71 Charger SE 440 when I switched from 2.45 to 3.55.


All you have to change is the plastic speedo gear in the transmission.


Just remember to index the cover that you pull out that holds the gear in. If you look at the area where the slots are & the tangs on the hold down bracket fit in, you'll see different markings/orientation for the different size gears.


If you haven't done this job yet I would have a pan ready to place under the speedo gear housing. When I changed the gear on my 1969 I found out the hard way that you will lose the trany fluid when you pull out the gear housing. And of course have some new fluid on hand to replace what you lose.

Dec. 10, 2005

Can anyone tell me how many 1973 Satelite's were produced with the 400 engine and 4 Speed transmission? Also, was a 3 Speed manual trans available and if so how many produced. Thanks.

Dec. 10, 2005

I have a 1975 Road Runner. I have found production numbers for this year to be 7,183 - does anyone know how many of those had the 400 cubic inch engine? Thanks

Dec. 9, 2005

Will 1973 Coronet cross member fit 1973 Road Runner?

Dec 9, 2005

I just pulled the engine in my 1972 Road Runner with 440 to rebuild. I have long tube flowtech headers for it and I know it's a pain putting these in. What's the best way to drop the engine? Is it possible to bolt them on and drop it or should I set them in and then drop the engine? Thanks.

Set the headers in and drop the engine in part way. Try to bolt up the headers while the engine is about 60-60% in the bay. This might help. You'll want to remove the trans linkage (automatic) or z-bar assembly (4-speed) and also the center link between the pitman and idler arm. This will give you plenty of room to work with. The engine won't go in if you put the headers on the engine and try to drop it in.


When I did my 73, I dropped in the motor and then installed the headers. No matter what you do, you will almost certainly have to remove the steering linkage to get it in. The linkage will sit between the header and body. On my 73, I was able to drop in the motor and put the passenger side header in with no problem. On the driver side, I had to lift the motor up about 1 inch to get the header in. Make sure to put the starter in before the header or you won't be able to get the starter past the header.


I tried a set of flow tech headers and they would not fit my 1972 Road Runner...I had to go to a hooker comp header...you might double check.

Dec. 8, 2005

I have a 1969 Road Runner. I am looking for the paint code for the flat black stripes on the hood. Thanks.

They have the paint you need. It is called Organosol and it is the original flat black paint Chrysler used for the stripes.

Dec. 7, 2005

I have installed the 440 engine my 69 Road Runner. I had all the fun I wanted getting the headers on. Anyway I got it started took for a quick spend. Need a little more tuning may need a bigger carb. I am running Elderbrock 600 cfm I have a Carter 750 cfm I may try it when it warms up. I just want to thank every body for they help at this site. The question I have is will the hood fit with a Elderbrock perfomer mainifold dual plain with the air grabber air cleaner setup without the ductwork?

With the 440 you may experience a problem with the ductwork and Performer simply because the 440 block is 3/4" taller than the 383 block, plus the added height of the Performer intake as well. You may need to invest in a drop base air cleaner assembly. Jegs has a house brand assembly in chrome with a K & N style air filter for a very reasonable price. I'm using one on my road runner (383, Performer RPM) and it fits perfectly.
As for the carb - I think you'll definitely need the 750. 440's need to breathe and the little 600 is just a tad too small. It would be great for street performance around town - giving good throttle response and decent economy - but it might be a bit too restrictive if you want to "let your hair down" now and then. Run them both and see what you think. If I remember correctly your 440 is only slightly warmed over. A 650 would be a better choice but the 750 is the normal choice for an engine of that size.
Here is a formula to help you in selecting the right carb:
Your car should probably be classified as a stock/street type of engine. Mild cam, headers, Performer intake, stock heads. It should be making around 400 hp with ease. Therefore in general it will it will use approx. 80% to 85% of its air volume intake at full throttle. Now we want to figure your max. rpm. For this engine 6000-6250 rpm should be in the ballpark with the valvetrain you are running.
Your displacement is 446 c.i. with a .030 overbore.
Now we can do the calcs. The formula is as follows:
c.i. x max. rpm / 3456 = ideal carb cfm
ideal carb cfm x .85 (85% max air volume intake at full throttle) = actual required cfm.
So then let's plug in all the numbers:
(c.i.) 446 x (max rpm) 6250 / 3456 = 806.56 x .85 = 686 cfm
(c.i.) 446 x (max rpm) 6000 / 3456 = 774.30 x .80 = 620 cfm
If you use the car primarily for cruising around and mild performance use the 600 will be a tad small but useable but if you are going to run it at the strip and want more power use the 750. As I said before, the 600 will give better throttle response (because of higher air flow velocity through the carb) and fuel economy if jetted correctly. It all depends on how you intend to use the car.

Sun Dec 4 20:13:33 2005

I'm looking into getting a 1968 Road Runner and there is a 1968 Satellite for sale near me. I was just wondering what all must be done to convert it to a Road Runner clone. I know it isn't much but just would like to know the exact differences. Thanks.

The Road Runners had the front sway bar, 11" brakes, heavier rear springs. Some '68 Road Runners had a rubber floor mat instead of carpet.

Also the road runner had larger diameter torsion bars and strut rods, the 383 road runner engine (335hp as opposed to the 330hp optional Satellite/Belvedere engine) standard or optional 426 HEMI engine, 4 speed A-833 transmission standard and optional heavy duty TorqueFlite automatic transmission, 5/16" fuel line standard or 3/8" on the optional HEMI, road runner horn (painted black in 1968), 8-3/4" rear end with 3.23 gears standard and optional Sure Grip and gear ratios. The 1968-70 road runner was based on the low line Belvedere line while the GTX was based on the upscale Satellite line. The road runner also used a slightly different hood from the standard Belvedere. The road runner hood had 2 "power bulges" (1 each side) which denoted the engine size (383 or HEMI) with badges in the power bulges. There were also trim options which included a stainless trim panel for the rear of the trunk among other things. There were more differences between the 383 and 426 HEMI cars in terms of suspension and chassis components as well.

Brakes were 11x3" drums front, 11x21/2" drums rear, manual adjusters, heavy duty rear springs, heavy duty torsion bars, front sway bar, performance hood, Road Runner badges on trunk, doors and dash with proper decals (B & W for 68, color 69 and up). Engine was different from other 383's. Base Road Runner motor was the 383, it had 440 (906) heads, windage tray, 440 exhaust manifolds, 440 spec. cam and Carter AVS carburetor. 4 speed transmission had the 11 inch clutch. Only other engine was the Hemi in 68. Interior had limited options for seat, only bench in 68. Some had carpet, some vinyl mats. There are other small differences but these will give you a start. The GTX options are another entire selection.

Another option on the 68 road runner was the power disc brake setup. This option used Bendix 4 piston fixed calipers and of course was power assisted. these brakes were available from 1966 to 1969. In 1970 Plymouth switched to full floating calipers with single pistons.

Sun Dec 4 15:46:00 2005

I need help!! I am trying to locate my first car which happened to be a 1970 Road Runner. I have the VIN which is RM23N0G144822. It was sold new in Illinois any help would be appreciated!!! Hopefully it is not a Pepsi can somewhere!!!! Thanks.

Dec. 3, 2005

I have a 1970 Road Runner with the stock looking basic steering wheel. I want to mount a 1969 Road Runner wood wheel on the car. Since the columns are different in diameter 4" verus 4 1/2" because I would think they needed more room for the lock on the column. I know the wheel fits, but who or where can I get the spacer or adapter to cover the space difference. It would look terrible if I mounted it without. You can see the signal switch from the sides becuase of the 1/4" space all around. If anyone can give some pointers I would really appreciate it. Regards, Dave.

Dec. 1, 2005

Can anyone give me information on (V6W) 'Sport Stripe' on a 1969 Road Runner? Runs horizontally at fender, door and quarter seam. The Year One stripe that is available does not seem like the factory original stripe that I had on my new '69 RR.

I own a V6R car. The stripe runs horizonal about a half inch below the fender, door and quarter tops.

Nov. 28 2005

Hi, I have a 1970 Road Runner. 383, 4 spd car. non-air (LYNCH BUILT CAR-I ASSUME FOR CAL. BUT I'M NOT SURE-THAT"S WHERE I AM). Most orig. Stuff is there. But since no one seems to want to pay what I believe project is worth. I guess I'll restore it. Need to know how do you tell if car was factory equipped with Holley or Carter (AND CAN I GET BOTH #'S). And what are distributor and alternator #'s. And fan and fan clutch if applicable. Note. Would a 1970 383 2v, or 4v -auto. Out of a Satellite have correct alt. Or dist., or fan, valve covers, or PVC and hoses system? Also, I guess these cars did not have smog, even in Cal? Also, please tell me differences between 1970 Road Runner, Satellite, and sport Satellite in grills. Hopefully it's just paint color. Note- I have build sheet if that helps and I'd like to know what wheels car came with. If steelies. Are small caps with tri-bar logo in center correct? Or plain? One last question. Search showed me graph of cars saying a large portion of cars came with buckets (60-70%). Yet, in real world today. Most cars left seem to have bench? What are the real % numbers? And are there 2 levels of interior trim? Whether bench or bucket, do they all have the silver piping with black seats? And is a non-console very common with 4-spd and buckets (that's what this seems to be). If anyone is real good at this info, yet doesn't like to type. You can always send a phone #. HELP- I'm a Ford/GM guy. But I'm a pro resto. person and I believe there's only one way to restore-FACTORY CORRECT. THX -in advance for any help. C.F.

Nov. 27, 2005

Does anyone know the torque specs for a 1972 Road Runner with the 440?

Chiltons says, torque 380 @3200 RPM , HP 290 @ 4800 RPM . Compression in 72 went down to 8.20:1.

Nov. 22, 2005

i got a 1970 Road Runner with factory air, I need the schematics on installing the brackets and lines, is there any one out there that may have the schematics on this? I'd be grateful and I'm sure there are a few more that has and needs the diagram. If so please send me a copy. Thanks in advance. Art

Nov. 22, 2005

I went too fast, buried the speedometer and broke it. I am going to have Yr 1 rebuild it, but would like advice on how to take it out. Do I remove the lower plastic dashpad first? Do I have to remove the whole instrment cluster? I've done this several times on a Dart, but this is more difficult. It's a 1969 Road Runner. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

Yes you have to remove the lower dash pad.Also unhook the speedo cable, and gently pull the large wire plug off the back of the cluster. There are several screws on the bottom of the instrument cluster that you can't get to with out removing the lower pad.

Nov. 21, 2005

I'm trying to determine if there are any 1970 Road Runners with the same or later build date than mine which is 07/24/70. I've seen higher serial numbers but those cars were all built earlier than mine. Thanks!

Nov. 16, 2005

I have a 1969 383 Road Runner. What headers should I get? TTI or Dougs? And, how is TTI's Exhaust system and how about their tips? Or does someone else make 2 1/2" tips? Need feedback quick!!!

As far as I am concerned, TTI is the only choice. Their entire system is great. If they don't have a 2 1/2" exhaust tip, I think YearOne has one. They look just like the factory units, just with a bigger input end.

Nov. 15, 2005

I have removed my 383. I notice the drv. side motor mount broke again it lasted maybe 2 years. On 440 I plan to use mity mounts cost 99.99. Also planning on installing an Elderbrock alum hi cooling properties 119.00. It looks like every part I touch needs to be replaced. Any way the question I have is it possible to install the 440 with bell house and tranny as one unit? Or, would I be better off the bellhouse and engine and then install tranny? I am doing by myself. This is a 4 speed car.

If you are doing the work yourself I'd recommend installing the flywheel, clutch assembly (with t-o bearing and fork) and bellhousing on the engine and then lowering it into the engine bay slowly! It will be an extremely close fit front to back so you'll need to be able to tilt the tail end of the engine downward. You may find clearance issues with the t-o bearing fork so watch out for that as you lower it all in. Make sure the steering center link is securely in place and have a small block of wood handy to place between the oil pan and the center link so you won't crease the pan by letting it rest right on the center link. Get the car as high off the ground as you can with some good quality jackstands and install the trans from underneath using a good transmission jack and make sure the trans is empty of oil - otherwise you'll get it all over the garage floor. Fill the trans with oil after it is all bolted up in place. I speak from experience here. To put it in all as one unit would be too much for 1 person in my opinion. It is extremely heavy and you would need to really drop the tail end to get it in. You can't work the hoist and direct things into place alone. If you can get help I would highly recommend it.

Nov. 13, 2005

I was wondering if anyone had any breakdowns on how many 1973 Road Runners were produced with the 340 and either the 4spd or auto. trans....I have found a red with black stripes and black interior Road Runner near me and was wondering how rare it is.

Nov. 7, 2005

I have a 1972 Road Runner that originally came with a 400-4-spd. In my quest to find a motor for it, I ran accross a 426 hemi which I bought because I couldn't pass it up. I am having the Hemi professionally rebuilt by a very reputable racing shop. My question is would it be worth putting this in my 1972 Road Runner or would it be better to get a differant year. I am also not sure what, if any, environmental guidelines need to be followed. Does anyone know what guidelines I need to follow, and if it would be worth it?

Since you don't have the original engine, I wouldn't think twice about putting the HEMI in.

Nov. 7, 2005

I have a 1969 440 Road Runner with drum brakes all the way around. I have some wheel and tire questions. I am buying a set of 15x7 Cragar wheels for the front and back. I am not sure what backspacing to buy 4, 4.25, or 4.5 inch. Most of the wheels I am interested in are 4.5 inch backspace, but I don't know what to buy. Also, the wheels require "conical seat" lug nuts. What is the thread pattern, size, and length of the studs and does the 69 Road Runner have reverse studs on half of the car? The last question is tire size. I am putting the same wheel size for the entire car and I would like the tire size to be the same. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Concerning your question about wheels for your Road Runner - 15"x7"x4.5" backspacing will fit just fine. I am running 15"x8"x4.5" backspace Magnum 500's on the rear of my 1969 Road Runner with 276-60R15 B.F. Goodrich tires and the fit is perfect. The driver's side does have reverse thread studs but you can replace them with studs from a 1970 model if you so desire. The conical lug nuts are stock type lug nuts which you should still be able to find with some diligence. I would suspect that stock length studs will work just fine. As to tire size I'd go with a 235-70R15 tire. I have them up front on my Road Runner on 15"x7" Magnum 500's and they look really nice. Not too fat, not too skinny. I think they'd give the car a nice balanced look. They are 28.5" tall and about 7"-8" wide.

Nov. 6, 2005

Does anyone sell rear body quarter panels for a 1973 Road Runner or Satellite? Not interior.

Nov. 3, 2005

HELP...I need to know which Dog Dish is correct for a 1969 Road Runner. My car was produced in LA code 99 Bahama Yellow and came with painted wheels red line tires and dog dishes. I need to know the correct Dog Dishes for this car and where to find them. Thanks for your help, Dave M

Check on eBay - they usually have them. They are small hubcaps that read "Plymouth Division" on them. I'll take a pic of one of mine and forward it to you if you like.

Oct. 28, 2005

My husband would like a price list of a 1975 Road Runner in very good shape pupple in color. Thanks Anna

Go to your local book store (Barnes and Noble, Borders, etc) and look for a book called The Old Car Price Guide. You'll find everything you need to know in there concerning prices based on condition. Unless the color of the car is extremely rare it won't affect the value all that much, especially on a 75 Road Runner because they just aren't that popular with collectors. You should be able to find a good deal on a 75 Road Runner but it may be very difficult, if not impossible to find one in Plum Crazy purple. You may just have to buy what you can get and have it repainted. There weren't a lot of 75 Road Runners made which makes them somewhat rare but by the same token they aren't a popular model now (and weren't when new - hence the low production figure) so the value isn't extremely high on them either. In any case I wish you success on your search.

Oct. 27, 2005

I have a 1969 Road Runner that I am fixing the brakes on. It has manual brakes and drums all around. I have replaced all wheel cylinders and the master cyclinders. All the lines are clean and free flowing...except the two black front flex hoses that connect to the wheel cyclinder from the metal lines. I either need to replace them or work on them but I am having trouble removing them. I can remove them from the wheel cylinder and I can remove the metal line coming into the hose but I can not remove them from the frame mount. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

There is a U-shaped clip on the fitting were you took the metal brake line from you snap off the U-clip and it should come right off. Hope this helps.

Oct. 25, 2005

I am looking for production numbers for a 1969 Road Runner convertible with a 383 and four speed. Does anyone know where to look? I see similar questions on the bulletin board are rarely answered. Any help would be appreciated.

You should have checked in the section called "Click here for more questions grom 2003" at the bottom of the page and done a little more legwork. These kinds of questions are answered - and quite often.
Here is your info
In 1969 Plymouth built
33,743 Pillared Coupes, 2DR.
48,549 Hardtop Coupes, 2DR.
2,218 Converibles

Oct. 21, 2005

I'm looking for the right argent silver paint to restore my tail panel on my 1969 GTX, I'd like to find the coarse silver metalic paint that was factory, and also before I remove the red beltline reflective red stripe I need to know where to fine new red pinstriping, because the factory stripe is reflective at night. Any help please email me, I'd like to do this soon.

Totally Auto handles this paint, along with a lot of other specialty paints. They specialize in Mopar only restorations. I don't have their number handy, but they advertise in the mopar mags.

Year One will have the Argent paint and may have the reflective tape stripe as well. Go to www.yearone.com to find out.

Oct. 21, 2005

I have a 1969 Dodge Coronet with a 340, it will run for quarter mile good then cuts out what should I do with the timing, right now it is facing passenger firewall should I turn it 180?

It is not that simple. If you turn your distributor 180 degrees your car will not start, it will possibly break or bend parts, backfire, burn to the ground, etc. You get the point. You left out all the important data. If your car runs through the quarter OK then starts to miss or quit it can be a number of things. You could have fuel tank, fuel line, fuel filter or carburetor problems. You could have internal engine problems such as valve springs. You may have ignition problems. You didn't say if you had points or electronic system. The old points system takes a lot of setup to get them to run OK. The electronic systems are much better but again they need to be setup to operate good at Hi-Performance levels. You can even have exhaust problems from a too restrictive exhaust flow. There is more but this gives you a good start.

Oct. 20, 2005

I want to have my plastic on my armrest rechromed. Who would you recommend? Or is it cheaper to buy new? If so from who? Also need new black armrest for the front and rear. Who do you reccomend? My car is a 1969 Road Runner.

You can get new parts or have them rechromed by Mr. G's. Check them out at http://www.mrgusa.com/rechrome.htm. You can also price new ones at Legendary Auto Interiors www.legendaryautointeriors.com, Year one www.yearone.com or The Paddock www.paddockparts.com

Oct. 19, 2005

I have a 1968 Road Runner. Car is said to be one owner 440 car. I have no VIN tag on dash or fender. Don't have build sheet under seat. The mice like it to well all I have left of it is the last 8 digits. Can anyone help?

It may well be a Road Runner or it may not. I'd be very wary if there is no VIN or fender tag. Its easy to pass off a clone car if the documentation is missing. Also, someone swapped in the 440 sometime in the past because the only engines available in the 1968 Road Runner were the 335 hp 383 or the 425 hp 426 Hemi. You definitely need to find some documentation on the car. Check the radiator support bulkhead for number stampings - the VIN should be there somewhere.

Oct. 19, 2005

I have a 3 core radiator Chrysler part # 3574601 dimensions 23x28 1/2 and 30 1/4 from mounting ear to mounting ear. Any idea what it fits?

Oct. 19, 2005

Am trying to find out the exact location on a 1969 Road Runner for the running bird & standing bird. I am aware the running bird goes near the head light L/h & R/H and the standing birds go 1 on the trunk lid & 1 on the dash. But I am trying to find an exact location. Thanks Joe

I have a 68 Runner and the standing bird decals are on both doors, just in front of the Road Runner badge. The running bird decal is on the right hand side of the trunk lid. The other standing bird is on the dash just to the right of the Road Runner dash badge. The 68's had the black & white birds. The 69's had color. I am fairly certain that the 69's were at the same locations. I have never seen a 69 with anything on the front fenders. I think the '70 Runners may have had a bird on the front fenders. Check out any of the several restoration website for Mopars, especially musclecarrestorations.com and checkout the pictures of their project cars. You may be able to see the exact locations. There are also many books on Mopars that detail the restorations or are just a pictorial of many of the cars. If you don't have any luck, let me know and I'll check some of my books and let you know for sure where they go.

Oct. 19, 2005

I have an opportunity to buy a 1973 Plymouth Sattelite. It has a 318 engine. I'm not a car buff, but I like to buy and sell things. I can get the car for $600. Can someone please tell me what to look for and what the car might be worth. Here's some info. Runs, drives and looks good. Front seat is torn, but looks OK. Carpet and headliner were pulled and look good. Large crack in windsheild. Dual straight pipe exhaust (new, loud) White vinyl top is in good condition. Tail light lenses need to be replaced. If this is a good opportunity, please let me know. Thanks.

Oct. 19, 2005

Have a 1974 Road Runner. Was wondering how I can decode the metal plate on the numbers plate on the left 1/4 panel in the engine compartment. Where can I get this info to decode this? And what is this plate called cause someone told me it was the VIN, but its not its like an option codes for the car I believe.

Oct. 18, 2005

Who owns my old 1970 Hemi Road Runner? I am pretty sure that the serial number is RM23R0G150945. I sold it in '91 (roughly, maybe it was '90?). It is dark green metallic, 4-spd, super-trac-pack, air grabber, pb, ps, etc.; all the good performance options. I am working over in Russia right now, but wondering about the possibility of getting the old Mopar back in the garage in Graniteville. If you have any info about this car please Email me at bcobrathomas@aol.com or call my wife at 803-646-6257.

Oct. 14, 2005

Trying to finish a resto on a 71 RR. Need to know if this year had the plastic seat backs or not. I've seen several cars both ways and all claim to be original. Were both types of seats offered this year. I though only the later models had the plastic backs?? Any help would be appreciated. THANKS

Oct. 12, 2005

Does anyone know what engines were available for a 1973 Road Runner?

318 2bbl, 340 4 bbl, 400 4 bbl, 440 4 bbl (GTX model only)

Oct. 12, 2005

I have bought a 1974 Plymouth Road Runner for my son's 16th birthday. It is in excellent shape except for a few cracks in the dashboard. Where would be the best place to find a dashboard cover for the car? Thanks! Sonya

Year One (www.yearone.com) has just what ou are looking for. They have replacement dash pads or a dash pad covers. If you want to do it right get a new dash pad - if you don't have the money for a new dash pad then get the dash pad cover instead.

Oct. 11, 2005

I have a 1972 Satellite Sebring Plus. My problem is in the fuel system. The engine is a 400 2 barrel. The engine starts and idles but after about 15 minutes, the engine dies and won't start again for a while. So far as I can tell, the fuel pump stops pumping gas to the carburetor. I have a clear glass fuel filter right before the fuel pump. When the car is first started and running, the fuel filter is full but after a while the filter runs empty and the car just quits. I just put a new fuel pump on and a new carburetor. Another thing, after the engine warms up and the butterfly on the carb is all the way open, there is a hesitation when you punch the gas. I have to close the butterflies halfway to get rid of the hesitation. It seems I have to choke the carb because there is not enough gas getting to it, or too much air coming in. Shouldn't the gas filter stay full when the engine is running? Also, to rule out the possibility of the gas tank being clogged up, I I ran a hose straight from a 5 gallon can of gas to the gas filter inlet. Still the same problem, when the filter goes dry, the engine quits. Could I have gotten a bad fuel pump? Is the fuel system somehow vapor locking? Is the fuel pump breaking down after it runs for a while? Someone must have had this problem before. PLEASE HELP!

Since you're doing the 5 gallon gas can bit, I'd try the fuel filter first (since it's the cheapest), but I suspect the fuel pump. Another thing, while you have the fuel pump off, check the little push rod that runs the pump off the cam. Also check the lob on the cam that moves this push rod. I've heard of these getting too worn to work the pump.


I had the same problem with one of my Mopars. It turned out to be a corroded fuel line and gas tank. I tested the line by putting compressed air through the line after disconnecting it from the fuel filter. In other words, forcing air back through the line the opposite way the fuel flows. Make sure you take the fuel cap off and have someone listen for bubbling in the tank through the filler tube. If you can't hear the bubbling, either your line is plugged up or the pickup in the fuel tank is plugged. If that is the case, you may want to determine why. Could be you have something in the tank causing the problem.


You might have a clogged fuel line, I had a simular problem and it was the sending unit in the gas tank.

Oct. 10, 2005

Has anyone here ever installed the rear glass on a 1969 Road Runner? My body guy took the glass out and I'm not too confident in having him put it back in. I can't seem to find repro rubber or any thing else for that matter. The shop manual mentions some rubber spacers but it is unclear if there is rubber weather stripping or if it is just adhesive. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

The rear windows are held in w/ adhesive. This can be pick up at any body supply place. I don't know if the rear windows have the small rubber spacers or not. I know the windshields on C Bodies (which use the adhesive) use two small rubber spacers.


I would recommend Windo Weld Ribbon sealer.

Oct. 10, 2005

Where are the secret numbers on a 68 Road Runner, I have heard they are under the package tray in the trunk somewhere? Thanks, Ken

Oct. 9, 2005

Hey guys, I need some help with a Volare Road Runner. I picked up a 1979, 360 car, all orig. and it's gorgeous. But, it has these wild orange strobe stripes on the hood. They will need to be replaced. The car itself is a dark chocolate color, all original, but faded. Any sources? Pictures? What striping options were there in 1979? Any help much appreciated!

I 'm responding to your add about the 79 rr. I've never seen one with those color stripes and would love some photos. The proper stripes are silver or gold. I know alot about these cars - own 5 F-bodys.

Oct. 9, 2005

68 Road Runner: I have an issue with the bulkhead disconnect located on the firewall. One of the contactors is in need of replacement. It so happens to be the battery voltage (w/ fusible link) going into the car! (middle bar of bulkhead, location J) Can you purchase just the bulkhead disconnect? If so, any suggestions where? I'm afraid I have to purchase a whole new dash harness? Thanks.

Oct. 8, 2005

I have a chance to buy a real muxcle car-a 1970 GTX 440 6 pack car. However, I want to make sure it is real and not a clone or rebodied car. I have the VIN number and it checks out according to the information I have pulled up. However, can I confirm it any further, such as pulling the information off of the fender tag? If I get that information, where do I go to check it? If that all checks out, is there any other way to be sure this is real, since tags can be removed and replaced I have been told? Your help and response would be appreciated as I really would like to buy the car, but not at the expense of being ripped off for a clone that is worth a whole lot less than what I will be paying. Thanks Bob

The VIN 3 of the car will be on the VIN tag in the dash, on the fender tag, the radiator support, and under the weather striping in the trunk.

Oct. 7, 2005

I have a '69 Hemi RR that came equipped with the deluxe interior. The car has been mostly restored by someone other than me. I found a "before" picture and can see a piece of chrome across the back of the trunk, but my car now has no sign of it. Do I need to add the chrome to make the car "correct?" I'm hoping someone will say "no" because I do prefer the way it looks without it. Also, the interior color is B7 with two-tone B5/B7 door panels. I believe the inner sheetmetal on the doors should be painted B7, but everyone I talk to says B5 to match the exterior color. Who is correct?

The 1969 had no chrome on the trunk lid. The 1968s did. I believe the upper doors should be painted to match the exterior blue.

Oct. 6, 2005

Can someone help me on what 4 speed trans came in the 70RR 383. We found a 383 out of a 70RR but it came with a 3 speed. I believe we have all the other goodies that went with the RR. The moter and trans were sold years ago because the guy never cam back to pay for the moter work.So my son bought the car and we got all the papers from the owner 10 years after I guess that was luck that we found him 800 miles away. I think its an A833 but the A and B bodies have me confused because I am a Ford/Chevy old man!!60.I saw some on eBay out of all types and I don't need to buy one thats got the wrong tail shaft and fits in the Cuda and not the biger car? the ones on eBay are not selling I guess because of what they want for them but its a start! He does have a 4 speed and I think its date code was 66 and its a heavy one? Looks like one maybe for a truck but its not a top loader so maybe they just built them heavy and meaner back then? Well I guess I blabed enough but any help would be great. Thanks, Duke in NC

Your 1970 Road Runner would have had an 833 4-spd and it will measure 27 3/4 in. long and the place where the shifter bolts to the tranny will be on the front of the tail shaft on the drivers side. Some 833 4-spds have two places to mount shift linkage and the other location is for the e-body cars, but it will work on your car if it has both areas for mounting the linkage. When measuring the tranny meas. from the flat spot that comes in contact with the bell housing and the end of tail housing not the shaft.

Oct. 3, 2005

What size drum brake's do I need for my 1969 GTX Road Runner, 2 in front and 2 in back. Also a 383. Any help would be geatfully helpfull.

The 1968-69 Runners came with 11x3" front drums and 11x2 1/2" rear drums. One note of interest, I just went through the brakes on my 68 restoration project and it appears that some came with self adjusting brakes but some also came with manual adjusters. Mine had the manual adjusters and the correct parts were a little harder to find. Most parts are still available through various restoration suppliers.

Oct. 3, 2005

Hi, I am not a Mopar guy, but I have a question about engine colors. I notice that some 340s & 383s are painted Blue while other were painted Orange. Is there a rhyme or reason to this? Thanks

Yes, indeed. If a big block was painted turquoise it was an a/c engine. All hi-perf. big block non-a/c engines (in B-Body cars at least) were painted Hemi orange. All non a/c 383's in Road Runners were rated at 335 hp. All a/c big blocks were painted turquoise and all 383 a/c engines put it 1969 Road Runners were rated at 330 hp not 335 hp according to Galen Govier. This may be true for 1968's as well. As far as I know all 340 engines were Chrysler Blue - if anyone else can correct me on this please do.


The 383 HP engines in the 68 Road Runners that were rated at 335 HP were all painted turquoise, whether A/C or not. I believe in 69 the non A/C engines were orange and the A/C engines were turquoise.

Oct. 2, 2005

Well here's my story. Upon taking my air cleaner off I dropped the wing nut into the carb, so not knowing it was in there I started my car and instanly shut it down after hearing this wing nut buzzing around. Anyway, I had to start breaking down the motor with this in mind I will be porting and polishing with a valve job. I don't know how the previous owner got the header on (driver side), but I had one way to get if off to remove the head (sawzall). I will be getting a small hi tourq starter. My question is what brand header will be a little easier to install without my sawzall or tumms? Thank you.

tti makes the best headers for the big block Mopar. They fit like a glove and are an easy install - but the drawback is that they are very expensive. I have a set on my car after 2 unsuccessful tries at installing Hedmans. The tti's went on with from underneath absolutely no problems. All we did was put the car up on high jack stands and rotate the steering wheel so as to get the pitman arm and idler arm out of the way. I used the studs for the exhaust manifolds (left them in place) and removed the spark plugs for clearance. If you still have the original studs I'd recommend replacing them with new ones. At any rate they are extremely easy to install, but like I said, you'll pay a rather high price for them. You get what you pay for.

Oct. 2, 2005

1969 Road Runner does any one know if there is a gasket or anything that goes between the 1/4 panels and the extentions? Thanks

I'm pretty sure Year One makes this gasket. I need to find out also before I get my '69 painted.

Oct. 1, 2005

I've finally taken my 1969 Road Runner out of storage...mechanically it's rock solid (originally a 383 4-speed car, now a 440/automatic). The biggest problem I have is there is a LOT of rust that wasn't there when the car was parked. The previous owner put an (incorrect) after-market vinyl roof on the car, and there is so much rust under it, I think I'll have to replace the entire roof. I'll also have to replace the front valance up by the windshield (where the cabin fresh-air intake is). I know other parts can be purchased through Year One, and a host of other parts houses; however finding these parts is proving a challenge. Any help in finding a rust-free roof would be greatly appreciated.

Oct. 1, 2005

I have just purchased a 1968 Road Runner. The fender tag has has a letter "S" laying on it's side that is punched thru the fender tag. Anyone know what this means?

Sept. 29, 2005

I have a 1969 Road Runner with a vibration in the drive train. Both u joints fell tight. There is a little play in the spline that slips in the tail shaft. I have a manual 4 speed. #1 If the problem is in the tail shaft what would it be and can it be fixed? Also do I need to pull the whole transmision out if that is the trouble?

Drive the car down the road and when it starts vibrating take it out of gear (slip it in neutral, let the motor idle and let the clutch back out). If the vibration goes away it is may be a motor imbalance, the flywheel or a clutch balance problem. If it still vibrates it may be the driveshaft, u-joints or a loose pinon bearing in your rear end. If you determine that the problem is drive train, it could be you have a bent drive shaft. Take it out and have a driveshaft shop put it on their balance machine and check it for run-out and balance. If it is OK, replace the tail shaft bushing in the tail shaft of the transmission. If it still vibrates, check the pinon angle. (If you have the car jacked up in the rear it can sometimes cause a problem.)

Sept. 28, 2005

I have a 1969 Road Runner 383 and I would like to find a chart that shows how the fuel system goes together. Anyone know a place I can look?

I'd suggest a shop manual if you can get your hands on one. If you can't find a printed one you can go to Mopar Manuals on CD-ROM by MuscleCARS, LLC www.moparmanuals.com 203-237-4795. These are original factory service manuals for 1914-1989 Mopar vehicles.

Sept. 27, 2005

I recently acquired a 1968 Road Runner. The trough that the rear window and bottom reveal trim is attached to is rusted out in spots which makes for a rotted trunk floor. Is there an outfit that sells a replacement trough? I'd rather cut out the rusty one and weld in a new one if I can.

I know year one and others make the corners, but I don't know if the whole channel is repoed. Might have to get a used one, or year one makes the whole panel that goes between the window and trunk lid.

Sept. 24, 2005

I have a 1970 Road Runner hardtop six barrel car. It originally came with standard power buldge hood no stripe. It appeared I had the original trunk lid before I restored the car. It had the Road Runner standing bird decal to the right of the trunk and metal Road Runner plaques with studs on the decklid. My question is if you ordered the car and requested the rear deck lid stripe to be deleted would you have gotten just the regular plaque with standing bird instead? Also, was the rear deck stripe standard on all hardtops? I do not see very may 70 birds without stripes on the rear deck, and wonder if you had to request no stripe. Thanks in advance!

Sept. 21, 2005

Hello, do you know if petty blue (or a similar color) was offered on 69' Road Runners? I used to own one this color in the 1980's, and it was an original car from this area, my older brothers knew the car and owner from day one. Anyway I heard Plymouth only made a few (way less than 100), but in the "b-body restoration guide" showed all the colors available for 69' and there were a few blues but none like this color. Maybe it was a special order color, would this be the same as basin street blue? even this color was not listed as available in 1969. I would like to have the color code # for this. I located a 69 Road Runner around here, and it is black but under closer examination I can see that it was this same color blue also. If you have a color code # for this I would like to go back and see if the fender tag shows the same #. I will probably buy this car either way, but I would like to know if this is a rare color or not. I have only seen one ever, the one I used to own, and now this one I found. I would appreciate any help. Thank you, Regan Ticer, Safford AZ
Recently I discovered a black Road Runner body, its a 1969 and I found that it too was this same blue color when new. If you know anything about this I would appreciate the information. If I can get a code number I want to go back and inspect the fender tag. This car is buyable and I will probably take it no matter how rare the color is, I would sure appreciate any help.

I believe the Petty Blue was a special order and it should have a paint code 999. I had a 69 that was orginal Petty blue and that was what was on the fender tag, hope this was helpful.

Sept. 20, 2005

I have a color code problem on a 1969 Road Runner the VIN tag says R4 I come up with 2 colors one is perfomance red which has a orange tint to it the other is Barracuda orange, which doesn't have as much orange tint but when mixing the paint it doesnt have any orange color at all where can I find a paint chip of these 2 colors? Thanks Mike

Sept. 20, 2005

I recently purchased a hemi engine. Could someone tell me what it is out of and what I should put it in? Thanks Rick
ser# 2468330 d n rl model 0302

Sept. 18, 2005

Is there production number break downs for colours on 1970 Road Runners? I am looking for how many 1970 Sixpak Runners were produced in Plum Crazy.

Sept. 18, 2005

Can anyone tell me what size tires are the best fit for a 1974 Road Runner?

I had a '73. I ran G5015s on 15x10 slots. Looked awesome. No problem with rubbing the fender lips. Could have gone with a taller tire too.

Sept. 12, 2005

Where is the best place (website) to obtain info on VIN or cowl tag on a 1968 Road Runner?

We have our own VIN tag decoder here at this web site. You can find it by clicking here.

Sept 12, 2005

I have a 1969 Road Runner and the key broke off in the ignition. Paddock and Year One only sell ignitions for 1968 and 70 not 69. Does anyone know where I can get one or if the years are interchangable? Thanks for all your help.

Try taking your ignition switch to a locksmith. Should be cheaper than buying a new switch. The '69 switch was a one year only. Different size (where it fits thru the dash frame) than the '68.

Sept. 11, 2005

Does anyone know the production numbers for 1974 Road Runners. Looking for the break down by engine. Or, are there any books that show the number breakdown? Thanks.

Sept. 10, 2005

Does anyone know where I can find aftermarket or original fenders, front and rear valances, trunk lid and rear quarter panels for a 1974 Plymouth Road Runner? I also need interior dash parts, dash pad, knobs, console...etc. I can't seem to find any decent ones.

Check with Hemmings Motor News, Mopar Collector's Guide, Mopar Muscle Magazine, Mopar Action, etc for parts vendor references. Check your local bookstore if you can't find these magazines on your local magazine racks. Also do web searches for what you want. I know I can find hundreds of sources at the click of a button but its easier for me because my rr is a 69 and they are easier to find parts for than a 74. Still with just a little leg work you'll have more sources than you can check.

Subscribe to Mopar Muscle and other magazines at the HHStore.

Sept. 9, 2005

What were the production numbers on 1970 Hemi Road Runners auto and 4-speed?

Sept. 4, 2005

Quick question. I am looking for a center console for a 1970 Road Runner w/4-speed. I see a lot of good automatic consoles, but no four speed consoles. Are they the same except for the top plate? I have a good top plate on mine, but my console has the usual cracks and I am wanting one better. I know the four speed cars have the center hump so I am not sure if the consoles are the same and will interchange. I could always resell the top plate if needed. Thanks Guys! Dan

The only difference is the four speed console is cut out on the drivers side to clear the shifter hump. you can cut yours to clear the hump, and save a lot of $$. I believe year one or the paddock sell the piece that covers the hump, or you could just use the carpet to cover it.

Aug. 28, 2005

I'm restoring a 1969 Road Runner and I have a problem with the break rod lining up with the brake pedal. The car has a power brake booster and disc brakes (after market) Wilwood I think. If any body knows or thinks he knows what my solution might be I would greatly apreciate your help! Thank you.

I had to basically make a setup for mine, Good luck with your back this is a tough place to get comfy. I bought a rod from Mopar perf $ 70 @ summit and made it work. Is the fulcrom intact?

Aug. 27, 2005

1969 Road Runner: Does anyone know if there a aftermarket or OEM replacement of the face plate for the dash cluster?

Aug. 26, 2005

My fuel gauge does not work. I have tried to get to to work but it just keeps going way past the full mark. The tank is full and on level ground. Any suggestions woulg be great.

Check or replace the small metal voltage limiter/regulator on the back of the dash cluster behind the fuel and amp gauges. If it is bad it can cause your problem. The limiter drops the voltage to both the fuel and temperature gauges to about 5-6 Volts.


Your float on your fuel gauge may be out of adjustment. The first thing i would do is pull it from the tank,hook the wire up and move the rod manually.if the fuel gauge moves then your unit is out of adjustment. you can correct it by bending it to where it registers full with a full tank. Also check when its disconnected and see if the gauge drops to empty. if it doesn't you have a shorted wire between the gauge and the sending unit. hope it helps


Have you checked the float? Chances are it is filled with gas sending a false signal through the sending unit. If it is, dry it out and seal the hole/crack. Mine had hairline cracks allowing gas to seep into it. I recommend you first check to see if there is electrical current (power) running to the float. If the float is getting power, then check for cracks / holes.

Aug. 23, 2005

How do I get the steering wheel off of my 1969 Road Runner? I don't see any screws for the horn ring. Do I pry the plastic Road Runner bird off of the center first to access the nut?

Yes, you need to remove the plastic "beep beep" center medallion to reveal the attaching nut. Remove the nut and the horn ring comes off. Then remove 3 screws to get the backing plate off and then 3 more screws to get another ring off. Disconnect the horn wire and then use a steering wheel puller to get the wheel off.


Most of the horn buttons twist off counter-clockwise. Once it is off you will see the large nut holding on the wheel. Use a wheel puller, don't try to pry or beat it off. The safety portion of the collapsible steering column can be damaged.

Aug. 22, 2005

Its all most time to install 440 engine. The question I have is can I remove, install the engine with headers still connected to the engine? (2) I still wonder what horse power I am going to make with 1978 remanufactured 440 long block 1966-72 forged crank, 443 intake, 465 exh. dur.@.050 214 int. 224 exh.750 cfm carb. 3/4 inch headers Edlbrock dual plane manifold msd distrub., ignition, stock 906 heads. 4 speed trany? This is geting very pricy. I got about 3,500 in to this project is there more I should do before I install the engine?

I would not recommend trying to install the engine with the headers on it. Just put the engine down in the engine compartment about 2 " off the mounts and install the headers before you lower it all the way down. It will not fit with the headers on the engine. Depending on the header brand you may have to do some "creative field engineering" to get them to fit. Test fit them on the engine before you try putting them when the engine is in the car. It might save you some real headaches. If you bought tti headers don't worry about it. They fit great. You combo sounds pretty good but I don't think it will make much more power than a stock 440 - maybe 400 -410 hp instead of the stock 375. It will feel and run better than stock for sure but the cam is somewhat mild and the unported heads will not help. The stock cam was very close to yours but had .450" intake/.455" exhaust lift with advertised durations of 268 intake/284 exhaust. The msd ignition Edelbrock intake (Performer or Performer RPM?) and Holley 750 will help some as well. The Performer RPM makes more power than the Performer but the Performer is a nice intake and will run smoothly.


You cannot know the HP till its in, tuned and on a dyno. It could have 250 or 450. Took me 2 months to totally tune my 383. No you must lower the engine in bolt up the rear mount and then install the headers, then depending on which headers you have you will deal with the starter and possibilities of suspensionparts being in the way.

Aug. 22, 2005

I have a 1970 Road Runner, but need lots of different body parts. Is there a place to buy doors, hoods and things like that? I am new to this and I am really having a hard time finding anything. I have somebody that will do all of the work I just have to find the parts. Thanks for any help.

Get these magazines: Mopar Collector's Guide, Mopar Muscle, Hemmings Motor News
Your local bookstore should be able to get them for you. These magazines will have lots of parts vendors for you to check out. Unfortunately no one is making replacement steel hoods but you can find fiberglass replacements if you want to go that route. The best you can hope for is to find good used parts. There are replacement rear quarter panels, trunk floors and extensions available. Check with Year One (www.yearone.com) and The Paddock (www.paddockparts.com) Year One and The Paddock also have lots of other parts available as well.


i am doing a 69 that is half done...the parts are not too hard to come by...I would also suggest a parts interchange manual for parts that fit a lot of cars.you can save a bunch that way.


Subscribe to Mopar Muscle and other magazines or purchase the parts interchange manual at the HHStore.

Aug. 21, 2005

My fuel and temp gauges stopped working. Thinking it was the voltage limiter I replaced it - still they do not work. On the instrument panel there is a condenser with a wire that is not plugged into anything. Can anyone tell me where this wire goes? Also where the ground is for the instrument panel?

The wire from the condensor goes to the middle prong on the vltage limiter.


For the condencer part of your question go to the 2003 year bulletin board listings and check out the Donald Costley question just past half way down the list.

Aug. 20, 2005

I`m looking for a factory holley carb for my 1970 383 Road Runner, I can not find a site that list the #s, I only find carter #`s, Any help greatly appreciated, thank you, Some jerk took a few parts off after I paid down payment.

I have an old Chiltons book from the early '70s. I know it lists the Carter #s, should have the Holleys. Do you have a 4 gear or auto?

Aug. 16, 2005

I have replaced the 340 with a 440 in my 73 Road Runner. The car I took the 440 out of did not have the Mopar electronic black ignition box in it, but did have a one pickup style electronic distrubutor. 440 ran when I pulled it out. I have been unable to get a spark to the plugs even though the coil has power. Any suggestion?

The dual ballast resistor used with the Mopar Electronic ignitions have two purposes. One section of the resistor is for the ignition coil. It drops the voltage down so the coil will not burn up. The other section of the resistor applies the power to the ignition box for its electronic operation. The internal circuitry of the ignition box takes the place of the old ignition points making and breaking the current through the ignition coil to create the high voltage spark. Make sure your ballast resistor is good and that you are getting voltage to both your coil and to the control box. If you can obtain the installation instructions for the electronic ignition kits that Mopar sells it has a great electrical diagram of the system. It could help you in troubleshooting your problem.


Did the engine have the electronic ign control in the air cleaner, if so youll need a different dist. Have you checked your engine and body ground wires?


See Mopar Muscle magazine's lastest issue (October 2005) for an article they did on the electronic ignition system. This ahould fix you right up.


Subscribe to Mopar Muscle and other magazines at the HHStore.


Make sure you have the cap wired to the correct rotation of the rotor button.

Aug. 11, 2005

I have a '69 Road Runner, 383 auto. 3.91 gears. The car runs very warm, 190-200 plus when at lower speeds, and somewhat higher at highway speeds. If I shut the car off it could go up to 230+ and become very hard to start and keep running until it cools off. But what I find odd is it dosen't boil over. It has the usual antifreeze, water mix. I've been told that I could retard the ignition a bit to help it run cooler, would that help? I was also told that some black discoloration on the intake near the heads, indicates a blockage in one of the passages that he says might add to the problem and it needs to be opened up. Are these valid ideas, and worth trying? Any suggestions are appreciated? Thanks

you might try a 180 degree thermostat .The reason its hard to restart after running is that the gas in the carb is boiling off or vaporizing and it takes awhile for the fuel pump to refill the carb.

Aug. 4, 2005

Does anyone know where I might be able to find wiper pivots for a 1969 Road Runner?

Aug. 2, 2005

Wanting to know if there are major differences between the 71 and 72 Road Runners. My dad has an old 72 that he wants to restore, and I found an old 71 that we could use for parts, but don't know how many/if any parts would be the same. Thanks Ron

There are many parts that will interchange. I'm not 100% sure, but I believe that the grill and tail lights are the only major differences.


The grill on a 72 RR is rare and the grill in a 71 looks like the 72 satellite but is blacked out! And i hope your dads 72 has nice taillight lenses as everyone i have found wants a fortune for them and the 72 has a lot meaner looking taillights!

July 31, 2005

I have a 1969 Road Runner with the turn lamps on the fenders, does anyone know if there is a replacement kit for the light, socket, etc. and if so where I can get it. Thanks Joe

July 28, 2005

First, I have a 1973 Plymouth Road Runner. I am not saying I will, but am wondering how it would look with t-tops or a sun roof.

If it is an original 440 car don't do it. There were only 117 440/GTX option Runners made in 1973. Keep it original, that is were the value is.

July 26, 2005

What are Belt Moldings on a 1969 Road Runner?

I may be wrong, but I don't believe '69s had belt moldings. These are the thin strips that go the length of the sides that protect the body form "parking lot" dings.


Belt mouldings run on top of the doors and continue onto the quarter panel to the end of the side window. Two seperate pieces.

July 26, 2005

Just installed a new 440 in my 1969 Road Runner. I have a "ticking noise", almost like a pushrod, coming from the top of the timing chain cover. I zero'd in on this location using a stethoscope. This noise rises and falls with rpm. I thought it might be the fuel pump, so I replace it, no change. Any help would be appreciated. Randy

What I ended up finding out was that it was the pushrod that runs the fuel pump that was making the noise.
Thanks,
Randy

July 26, 2005

I have a 1969 Road Runner that needs a total restore, did Plymouth have an assembly manual, if so where do I go to get one? I asked Year One, they said yes they have one, and sent me a Service Manual, this is not what I am looking for. I need a manual that shows how the car goes back together.

You can get a shop manual and that will tell you how to disassemble and assemble the different parts of the car, but I'm not sure you are going to find a "how to" manual on putting it all back together once it is disassembled. The way the really good restoration shops do it is to take pictures of everything BEFORE you start disassembly, take more pictures DURING disassembly, bag and tag EVERYTHING you take off the car (put it in plastic bags and label on the bag what the part is and where it came from.) Clean everything up and then decide what can be restored and what needs to be replaced. Its a lot of work but if you pay attention to detail you can get it all back together just fine.

July 26, 2005

I have a 1973 Road Runner in which I just had painted. I have all new emblems, and stickers. I don't know exactly where they go. I have a rough idea, but I want to be a 100% sure. I tried calling Hemming nobody there could help. I forgot to mention 1973 Road Runner has a vinyl top. I also checked with Phoenix Graphics to no help. Any help would be appreciated. Bob

July 25, 2005

I have a new battery, the starter is good, the ignition relay switch is good, and a new distributor cap, and solenoid. The car fired up just fine Saturday morning, but after sitting for one hour, there is no "click" or turnover attempts by the starter. I'm stumped.

July 24, 2005

Where on the 440 engine can I find what year it's from? Is a replacement engine in a 1973 Road Runner I want to buy, but owner doesn't know the year his engine is from? And, if I'm correct are the 440 engines after 1970 equiped with less horsepower than before?

The year is on the side of the block, about 1-2" high. Also on the pad in front of the intake manifold, where the 440 is stamped, there should be a letter before the 440. For example, a 1970 440 would have a capital F.

July 23, 2005

Hi, I'm getting a crate motor from MOPAR part # p4510851 its a 360ci engine with 380 (give or take) horsepower. Now my question is I need a tranny, I'm looking at a 727 4 speed automatic. The car currently has a sluggish 318 with a 3 speed 904 trany. Now I know I'll have to change it from the column to the floor. I need to know all the info that goes into swaping a tranny. Thanks

July 22, 2005

I am installing a Classic Air airconditioner on my 1971 GTX. I would like to know the spacing of the vents on the dash as well as measurements to locate the vent on the drivers side of the dash. Inches from the outer edges, or from a reference point would be great. Thanks

July 22, 2005

I am the previous owner of a matching number 1970 Plymouth Road Runner; 383/335 4 speed, bucket seat, air grabber car. Originally green with a vinyl top, repainted black with Cragar SS wheels. I sold the car to an individual in Trenton/Lawrenceville NJ, back in 1978/1979. I am trying to locate the car to possibly purchase. Have pictures of car from High School yearbook. Great sentimental value. Any leads on this would be greatly appreciated! 704-383-1704. I am trying to find the VIN number from old insurance cards, but have not found them yet.

I know some states DMV can help with title searches. You might try yours.

July 21, 2005

1968 Plymouth Road Runner 383: I have a stalling problem when the engine is warm. The car will not restart til after 1-2 hours. The problem is very intermident. One time the car had been run, sat for 1 hour and then started, but stalled about five minutes later?

Car has a Accel super coil
Mopar orange electronic ignition box
New wires and plugs

I'm assuming vapor lock, but I'm not for sure. When it happens next I'm going to check for spark at the coil to see if the problem is in the ignition system. When I operate the throttle, I see gas squirting into the carb? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

I would check the fuel line and fuel pump.


At one time I had a car that had a weak coil and when it got hot it wouldnt fire , when it cooled down it would fire again good luck

July 20, 2005

How many exterior colors were available in '68, and how many models in '68 had roll down rear windows?

July 19, 2005

As one of the last aspects of my RR restoration I want to use a hidden stereo system under the seat possibly or trunk mounted. RF handheld control so as not to compromise the original in-dash AM/FM. I have had some luck, but am concerned about quality. Any suggestions?

Using an RF modulator style CD or CD Changer will sacrifice sound quality. The signal is fed through your FM tuner. Unfortunately, tuners have poor frequency response and high signal to noise levels with poor stereo separation. Will it work. Yes and virtually all manufacturers make CD players that will connect in this way. What is a good alternative is to use a kind of "Y" box which might be hard to find. It's made by Denon and I remember most of the model number D?L-420. It allows two systems to operate on a common exterior amplifier. Mount the unit and an amp under your seats and you are in business with true CD sound!

July 19, 2005

Other individuals asked about sites to search for parts, specifically 1973 body and dr-mopar.com was listed. I can not get to the site. Please clarify.

http://www.drmopar.com/ .....Thats the site Tim....I have used him a few times...everything I got was in good shape and delivered on a timely basis


try moparts.com

July 19, 2005

I have to replace my body mounts on my 1973 Road Runner, but the bolts just keep turning. What would be the best way to do this with out cutting the frame open to hold the nut? Thanks.

July 18, 2005

I have a 1968 GTX and am looking for a GTX club and registery to join, does any such organization exist? Thank you.

July 18, 2005

I am starting the restoration of a 1968 GTX Hemi 4 spd. Where on the GTX are the VIN, or serial numbers located? I know of the one on the dashboard, the location on the radiator reinforcement and the left rear quarter panel drip rail where the trunk lid seal sit. Are there other locations I should be aware of before starting the sheetmetal repair/replacement work? Thank you.

July 18, 2005

My Dad ordered a 1968 RR from Carthage Chrysler/Plymouth, Cincinnati, OH late in 1967. Dad and Brother both have passed away and I have been trying to locate car for several