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Question From: Rob Giordano 2008-12-30
Question: I am looking at a 69 GTX for sale. The vin tag and build sheet say it is no doubt a 426 Hemi 4-speed car. The motor and trans are out of the car. I can see the vin# stamped clearly on the trans but can find nothing on the engine block that gives me clear indication that says that specific engine came out of that specific car. This is obviously a big investment and cannot afford to make an error. Can anyone tell me how to match the 2 together? Thanks Rob in NY Response(s) Rob, usually, there's a spot on the block of the engine that has the VIN serial number stamped on it. It should be on the lower passenger side of the block in 1969.
Question From: Joe 2008-12-23
Question: 1970 Road Runner, the right rear turn signal is dimmer than the left. Also, the horn sticks now and then, not all the time, this has been going on for several years. I believe the problem is related. Grounding issue but where? Response(s) for the turn signal, try running a ground strap from the threaded boss on the back pot metal light assembly to the ground strap on the brace for the trunk latch. the intermittent horn issue most likely comes from the steering wheel, specifically the turn signal cam. many times the plastic becomes brittle and breaks causing the horn to short out. the complete switch assembly is available through many suppliers and is fairly easy to install if you have a steering wheel puller. good luck!
Question From: keith 2008-12-19
Question: I have a 1969 Road Runner. Looking to put a lift off fiberglass hood. Would like to know the correct placement for the hood pins. Response(s) By any chance is that tail light brighter than the other side? Could be the wires reversed for the brake/tail light. Normally tho, it is a matter of grounding.
Question From: John 2008-12-18
Question: The diaphram in the air grabber actuator on my 70 Road Runner has a hole in it. I am on a limited budget so I'd like to try and fix it myself, can any one tell me how the two halfs of the actuator come apart? Any help much appricated, John. Response(s) I replaced the turn signal cam 8 years ago when I restored the car. A few years back the horn stopped working as did the right rear lite, that is when I did put a ground strap as you said.
Question From: DJB 2008-12-17
Question: My 69 Road Runner had the fender mounted turn signals. The other day, on the internet, I saw a 69 GTX with fender mounted turn signals. I don't beleive they were offered on GTXs. I have argued this with several mopar loyalists, they claim there was a lighting package available for fender mounted signals for GTXs...any help would greatly be appreciated. Thank you. Response(s) A friend of mine has a 69 gtx and it also has factory mounted fender mounted turn signals. I have a 68 and my understanding is that it is just as you mentioned, there was a light option for these. I have purchased a set for my 68 and am planning on installing them in the same location as the 69 as I understand they are same light and fender except for the marker light.
Question From: Jeff Morningstar 2008-12-16
Question: How do I get the dash out of my 1969 Road Runner? And is there any books to buy to see how its done?
thanks Jeff Response(s) The steel dash is attached to the body by a bolt on each side at the bottom (one by brake release lever and one across on pass side) and by five screws underneath the windshield rubber seal - yes you need to have the windshield out. You can pull the whole dash out with most eveything still attached including the cluster and wiring if you disconnect harness at the bulkhead. Need to look around and disconnect things like heater control cables and hoses, antennea, brake switch wires, door switch wires, etc. I have not seen disassembly in any manual or books.
Question From: William 2008-12-13
Question: I'm trying to test out all the switches on a 69 Road Runner, where can i get the wiring diagrams? Response(s) William, Go to www.ClassicCarWiring.com for your diagram.Its colored,and laminated.Good Luck,Rick
Question From: DJB 2008-12-11
Question: I know the stock wheel size for 69's was F-70-14. I would like to switch to 15" rims for my Runner. What size tires are a good fit with today's radials. I hate to admit this but my old tires are back: L-60-14...front: G-70-14. Old school....real old school, but hey that meat look was great in its day. Any comments are welcome thank you! Response(s) Hey DJ I run 235-70R15 BFG's up front on 15"x7" Magnum 500's and 275-60R15 BFG's out back on 15"x8" Magnum 500's. Both tire sizes are the same height at 28" tall. The 275-60's are 11" wide and look really nice, plus they leave about 1/2" to 3/4" clearance between the tire and fender lip (as long as your wheels use the factory backspacing which is 4.5" if I remember correctly). The backspacing dimension of your rear wheels will be the deciding factor on how wide a tire you can run. Let me know if you want some pics to see how the car looks with these tires. I'll be happy to send some to you. mcmopar@aol.com Thanks McMopar, I was looking at 275/60/15s for back and 225/60/15s for the front. I'm still on the interior of this car but the tire bug got me the other day while looking for tires for our van. My Mickey's are dry rotted and such...I was thinking BF Godrich, Cooper Cobras or Firestones some one that has the best deal at the time. Treadepot.com had a great deal for the van tires....maybe them...thanks.
Question From: Bill Malett 2008-12-05
Question: I have a 1969 Road Runner and I'm going to be putting hood pins on it so what I need to know is the exact location of the pins placement. TIA, Bill Response(s)
Question From: DJ 2008-12-05
Question: I have a 71 Satellite and each light on my fenders have bad sockets is there anyway to rebuild these fender lights? Response(s) there is probably no way of rebuilding I say this because when a fender light and interior light is made these days there is usually and metal frame that the plastic mold is injected over thats build into the plastic I see used ones and new ones online all the time on ebay i believe
Question From: dustr340man 2008-12-01
Question: I was hoping someone would know the value of the promo wheel discs for the Road Runner. These are not the repro ones. They are original from May 5 1969 and have never been mounted on a car. Set of 2. Response(s) just try setting a reserve online and see what you can get for them or advertise in a mopar magazine
Question From: John Vance 2008-11-27
Question: I just purchased a 1970 RR with extensive rust. Are there good DVD's or books that offer step by step for replacing rear frame rails, rear quarters, truck pan, etc. that are available? Basically, the whole rear of the car will need to be rebuilt. Thanks, John Response(s) Hot Rod Magazine has dvds on how to do all that body work
Question From: Bob 2008-11-24
Question: Does anyone know where I can get a 69 Plymouth bumper jack repaired? The spring inside for the up/down lever snapped. Response(s)
Question From: ed 2008-11-19
Question: How long does it take for the rings to seat after a rebuild? I have 1000 miles on my rebuilt 452 motor and it smokes very bad when I let off the gas after hard acceleration or after traveling highway and taking the exit ramp. I had the valve guides replaced didn't solve the problem. Do you think I need to replace the rings again? Response(s) Ed, It may not be the rings. If the engine had the proper cylinder wall finish and the correct MOLY ring end gaps there is practically no break in time for the rings. If your valve guides have the proper clearance and good valve guide seals they should not be the problem either. A compression check will confirm if these two things are OK. Since you said the engine smokes the most when you let off the throttle, I would suspect the engine at high vacuum is sucking oil into the intake ports. You may have a slight leak around an intake port(s) and oil spatter from the lifter galley is being sucked into the combustion chambers. Hope this helps.
Question From: Sandy 2008-11-19
Question: My husband has a 1969 Road Runner. 3 years ago he received a horn as a gift. When he finally got around to testing the horn months later it didn't work. I tried to contact the company that the horn was purchased through and have had no luck. Can anyone please tell me where I can have this repaired and is it worth sending off for repair or would it be better just to purchase a new one? I want to give this to him for Christmas. Thanks!! Response(s) I would suggest buying a new one, and from a reputable company. Fortunately they're not as expensive as other rr parts.. Mark 1968 Road Runner.
Question From: ronald beahl 2008-11-16
Question: 1969 Road Runner needs fuel line. Where to buy? Stainless or not? Response(s) I personally would go with the stainless. There are many restoration parts houses such as YearOne that can provide the correct part, clips, etc.
Question From: Ed 2008-11-12
Question: I have a non-remote driver side rear view mirror that will not hold its position. Is there any tricks you guys know that will save me from buying another. It looks fine besides the hanging and flopping around. It's on a 1968 Road Runner. Thanks Response(s)
Question From: Mike Niedermair 2008-11-12
Question: I have a 1979 Volare w/the Road Runner pkg, I know that there were only 1,137 made in 79, my question is, How many were made with T-Tops? Thanks, Mike Response(s)
Question From: Ryan Bennett 2008-11-10
Question: I'm trying to figure out how the fuel lines are run in a 1970 Road Runner. I didn't remove them so I don't know how they are supposed to go back in. Can you help me please? Response(s) Ryan,I have a 70 RR that I have replaced the complete fuel line.What are you trying to do?I can tell you how to route it if thats the problem.Let me know. Rick Is this a California car, meaning it has the Emission Control Syste (ESC)? If so there are two fuel lines. One for feeding the carb and the other for returning fuel vapor to the tank and vent tubes that run up a larger tube on the right side of the trunk extension. If not, there should be a single fuel line that runs from the tank to just before the fuel pump. The line is clamped along the inside of the right side rocker panel. There may also be a vapor tube that runs from the front of the fuel tank and through the floor pan above the rear axle. Hope this helps a bit.
Question From: mike 2008-11-09
Question: Need to know placement of dash and door bird stickers on a 69 Road Runner. I measured when I took it apart but that was 2 years ago and now can't find the paper. Thanks for any help. Response(s)
Question From: Andy 2008-11-03
Question: I would like to know where the door emblems and the bird are located on the doors of a 69 Road Runner. I have changed the doors and there are no holes. I am using the stick on emblems. Thanks. Response(s)
Question From: Dennis Steele 2008-10-30
Question: I have recetly put on a new gas tank and sending unit on my 74 Road Runner. When I put on the new gas lines the gas gauge doesn't seem to be responding. The tank has about 1/4 of a tank, but showing half way between E and the first hash. When you turn the key on the neddle moves ever so slightly, any ideas? Response(s) i had the same prob, the metal tube going into the tank is either in the wrong position or has to be rotated 360 degress. it should poit to 9 oclock. if it already does, it needs to be rotated 360 degrees to same position I have a '73. Make sure you have the sender at the tank grounded with a ground strap. The easiest way I did this was to use a 12 guage wire ( about 8 inches long ) with a small hose clamp holding to the sender and then over to the fuel line that runs to the front of the car. If that doesn't work, you can get a resistor ( 90 ohm ) from "Radio Shack". Disconnect the wire to the sender and connect the resistor between the wire and the body, to see if the guage goes the opposite reading as if the sender was just disconnected. i.e. if when you disconnect the sender without the resistor and the guage reads "empty", the guage should read "full" with the resistor connected. If any of this happens, then the guage should be good, and the problem lies in the sender arm, float, etc.
Question From: adam lewis 2008-10-27
Question: I have a 68 Sport Satellite, I have no juice past the firewall. No lights no blower nothing to the ignition. I can make it turn over by crossing the ignition relay on the firewall but no juice coming into the car. I replaced both fusable links and all 5 buss fuses. Any help would be great. Thanks
Adam Lewis Response(s) Adam, have you checked the ballast resistor? It's the white piece usually on the firewall on the passenger side. I take it you have nothing controlled from inside the car (turn signals, heater blower motor, horn, etc.) Ed - RoadRunnerSite.com (bboard@roadrunnersite.com) I would check the amp gauge wire post to see if power is going through the amp gauge .
Question From: Brad Blasco 2008-10-26
Question: I own a 1970 RR that I purchased and restored. Cannot say if brake lights ever worked, know they don't now. Stop light switch has one terminal only and there are two wires on a female sta-kon going to the switch. One is hot, the other is not, but when the are separated, dome lights don't work, so these two complete the circuit. If I go directly to the brown or green that goes to the brake light, thru the molex connector under the door sill/kick plate with a hot, I can make the lights work. The two wires on the switch are red and everything is tucked and wrapped under dash. Replacement switches have two terminals. It also appears that the switch that is on the car is inverted 180 degrees from what you would expect. Can that be the correct switch with two wires on the same terminal? Thanks for any help! Response(s)
Question From: tony 2008-10-23
Question: I have a 1968 Road Runner w/ac and the heater bypass valve leaks when I shut it. I cant find anywhere to buy a new one or fix this one. Any ideas? Response(s) E-bay. There are often used ones for sale, and most of the time, there is someone there who has an e-bay "store" who have new repos for sale immediately. You can also check most of the suppliers of parts, including Year One, Paddock, Harmons, and others. Pretty sure you can find one.
Question From: zach 2008-10-06
Question: Check this out! I still have this broadcst sheet I found RP23M2G186291 is it yours?
Model: Plymouth Belvedere or Satellite R
Price Class: Premium P
Body Type: 2 door hardtop 23
Engine: 400ci V8 2bbl (B motor) M
Year: 1972 2
Assembly Plant: St. Louis, MO G
Sequence Number: 186291 186291 Response(s)
Question From: robert mcdaniel 2008-10-05
Question: I am wondering where I can find an underhood wire harness for a 1973 Road Runner and a dash harness as well. I live in Harvest, AL. Do you know if anyone may have motor mounts where I can put a big block motor in a small block car, which again is a 1973 Plymouth Road Runner? Response(s) im not sure where to find one and im not sure how handy you are when it comes to putting one in but if i was you make your own its allot better every car that i have replaced an wire harness with a store boughten one they dont fit real well they dont give you enough extra wire to reach your dash and all of the componets that way you can leave plenty of extra wire for screw ups
Question From: mark 2008-10-04
Question: Hello everyone, looking to put my 69 Road Runner, 4spd, # matching 383/335hp motor back to complete factory stock specs. Does anyone have or know where to get those specs from? 3:73 geared rearend. Thanks, all opinions welcome. Response(s) THe best place to start would be a 1969 shop manual. You can find them from many sources and they are now available on CD. Just do a websearch for "shop manuals on cd" and you should be able to find them. In regards to your cam selection you will need the Mopar Performance/Direct Connection "Road Runner" cam. Specs are 268 degrees intake/284 degrees exhaust duration with 114 degree centerline and .450" lift intake/.455" lift exhaust. This is an off the shelf item in the DC/MP Performance Parts catalog. Mancini Racing has them in stock (www.manciniracing.com) as do other vendore such as Jegs and Summit Racing.
Question From: john janssen 2008-10-03
Question: How can I find out how many qq1 auto 68 Road Runners were built and get paper work to prove it? Thanks for any help. John Response(s) Your best bet is probably contacting Galen Govier. His web address for GTS (Galen's Tag Services) is: http://www.gvgovier.com/ I could not get through with a phone call, but did with a FAX. His FAX number is listed on his GTS home page. You may also want to try the Chrysler Heritage Museum, web address: http://www.chryslerheritage.com/pg904.htm Good luck! Curt B.
Question From: Joe 2008-09-23
Question: For 69 Road Runner - bumper mounted back up lights - having problems with the light socket getting a good ground through the housing to the stainless. Any suggestions? Response(s) Joe, If the body of the light socket is clean (no rust or grease) and the mounting surface between the socket and the bumper is clean of rust or paint, I do not know why there is a ground problem. The only other fix may be as simple as adding a ground strap (wire) from the body of the backup light socket and attaching the other end under backup light socket bolt to provide a better ground. I ended up putting a tack weld on the socket where it meets the housing - now I get a good ground. The crimp just didn't do the trick after 40 yrs.
Question From: ed 2008-09-23
Question: Who can tell me where to buy a (factory) calibrated 3/8 sending unit, that actually matches the factory stock gas guage? I have tried two different sources and both read 1/4 tank to low. The sending unit is recieving the correct amount of current and is properly grounded. Response(s) Ed,I got my sending unit for my 70 Roadrunner from National Mopar in Canada.These are exactly the same from Chrysler nos.Stay away fromtheunits on Ebay.Rick
Question From: Bradley Waitkus 2008-09-21
Question: I have a 1970 Road Runner with the Emission Control System (ECS), aka California emissions or option code N95. What I'd like to know are the details of the system. For example, when the fuel tank was replaced, the fuel filler tube was lost and now I'm finding out that it is special because of the ECS, needing a specific tube and cap. Also, there are special vacuum and breather items need as well. Could you tell me of any diagrams or schematics of all the needed items and how they are hooked up? Thanks!! Response(s) Bradley, You probably need to check on Ebay or other Mopar restoration sites and get you a factory service manual. You can normally get them either in hard copy or on CD. They should have the information you need. It would be very hard to descibe all the emission details here.
Question From: Timothy Wessels 2008-09-20
Question: I just bought a runner from someone i didnt know. Vin on dash reads Road Runner, but where on cowl and trunk do I look to rest easy? Thanks. Response(s) Check the radiator support and trunk drip channels near the gasket.
Question From: Fran Fistori Brockton, MA 2008-09-16
Question: I have 2 cars with Dana 60s do they all wine a little on the highway mine do? Is this normal? Response(s) If they were set-up perfiectly, NO. Were many Mopar rearends set up perfectly, NO. From what I have owned and ridden in, most Mopars have SOME whine in the rearends. Mostly when you are not accelerating or decelerating. Most of mine had a slight whine when crusings along. It can be adjusted out but only you will know if the cost is worth the trouble. I know this answer is vaque but hope it helps a little.
Question From: ben davis 2008-09-12
Question: I have a 1969 Road Runner with 440 engine 4 barrel 750 cfm Edelbrock carb. engine 9.5 compression mild cam. I would to use a holley 750 cfm sec. vacum carburetor upgraded with perform kit with no air horn or choke with 72 jets pri sec stock metering plate. The tech at Summit Racing said I would have to upgrade my fuel line from 5/16 to 3/8. If I did this would I need the 1/4 inch return line an the vapor seperator which I found stock on a 440 1969 GTX? I have all ready installed a new fuel tank and 3/8 sending unit it does have 1/4 inch hook up so far I just cap it off and for now slip the 5/16 hose over the 3/8 fitting waiting for more info on this mater. Stock prebent fuel line is 79.00 x 2 + vapor seperator is 60.00 + new fuel pump with 3/8 fittings both ways. Need help. Response(s) Hey Ben , I have a 1968 road runner with a 1970 440 in it . I have the same 3/8 sending unit you descrbed and also capped off the extra 1/4 inlet. Replaced my 5/16 line with 3/8 aluminum line and bought a bending tool at my local auto store and made my own using the old one as a guide.I think the return line was used to help with vapor lock. If you switch to a holley you should not need the return line because holley carburaters are not prone to heat soak which causes perculation of fuel which causes vapor lock , like the edelbrocks are known for.I had the edelbrock performer 750 and just replaced it with a holley 770 street avenger very satisfied with it , no hard starting with the electrical choke. Hpoe this info is helpful.
Question From: DAVE NONIS 2008-09-11
Question: I have a 69 Road Runner and am installing the hood. Having problems getting it to line up... high here- low there..raise and lower the hindges.. driving me nuts! Any tricks would be great! Response(s)
Question From: Ed 2008-09-10
Question: Is there a 2.94 or a 2.76 or around those gear numbers for a 8.75 489 case? I switched from 3.25 to a 3.73 which is good for around town, but on the highway I'm tacking around 3400 at 60 mph, thought maybe switching to 2 something. Has someone tried this or does anyone know where to buy the ring & pinion? Response(s) Ed, There are many places such as Summit Racing, Randy's Ring and Pinion, Zoom, etc. that have gear sets in about any ratio you may want. Just query the internet with "mopar ring and pinion" and you will have more than enough to choose from. Depending on your highway driving vs in town, a gearset in the 2's are awful high. It makes a lot of difference depending on your engine, torque, rear tire diameter and whether your machine is an automatic or 4-speed. I personnally have a 3:23 set in my 383 4-speed Road Runner and it turns about 3100 on the interstate and 65 mph. The 3:23 is still low enough that around town acceleration is OK. My favorite gear for all around is the 3:55. Hope this helps a little. I agree, 2. gear sets are pretty high. We took a 3.91 out of my '70 GTX and put in a 2.94 to try and save on gas some and make it more interstate friendly. When I tromped the gas, well... it was sorta anticlimatic. My friend and I looked at each other, waiting for something to happen, then it finally started moving forward. Ok, ok, so that's a LITTLE exaggerated, but you will see you have almost no off the line power with lower gears, but your top end will increase, and if you're gonna be driving the autobahn, you'll enjoy it.
Question From: Eric Becker 2008-09-05
Question: What is the correct "Beep-Beep" horn for a 1975 Road Runner? Response(s) From what I can recall it is the single purple horn with the "Voice of RoadRunner" decal. The correct horn is black without the Roadrunner decal on it. It also has the short mounting bracket.
Question From: Dave Fetty 2008-09-03
Question: I'm looking for a near impossible part to find, so I'm going to try the next best thing. Anyone with a '71 GTX who would be willing to take an impression of their dash emblem so I can make a copy. This would involve spraying your emblem with some Armor All, then pressing some modeling clay onto it, removing it and placing it in some sort of protective container and shipping it to me. I would be willing to pay for your expenses of course, and it will solve one of the last remaining issues with my X. It could also become a source for others who need the same emblem. Can anyone help me? Let me know at Buckneccid@Yahoo.com, thanks, Dave Response(s) Dave, I did a search on Goggle "1971 GTX Dash Emblems" and got several hits. Some said that YearOne has them. You might want to take a look for yourself. Hope this helps and good luck with your emblem search. Thanks, but I've been searching the net for about 4 months now, no hope anywhere. Year One, Paddock, Mitchell, Jack's, Layson's, Tony's, no one seems to have any or know of anyone who plans to make them. I was trying to find someway to contact Dale's Cuda shop since they have the license from Chrysler to make most emblems, but.... A check of e-bay at least twice daily is part of my routine, and most of the hits you get from Google or Yahoo are tied directly back to e-bay. Once you get there, you see the same thing you just saw. It's frustrating, but it'll be worth the satisfaction when I either find it or make it. Getting the same problem for a grille emblem, they are being made, but it seems Uncle Moe is putting the squeeze on whoever is making them, and they are in limbo right now. Thanks for your feedback in helping me explore ANY options I may have missed. I got my clay impressions, made a casting from fiberglass. Trimmed the flash, did some smoothing with sandpaper, and then painted the emblem. Looks good! Thanks for all the help. If anyone else is looking for a '71 GTX dash emblem, gimme a yell.
Question From: Confederate1969 2008-08-30
Question: I have searched the archives up and down and spent a lot of time searching around the web for an answer to this question. It seems like it would be an easy answer, but no one has given me a straight one so far. I'm pulling my '69 383 out for an engine rebuild. But I need to know what size bolts to put into the ends of the heads in order to hoist the engine out. I am also curious what size bolts to use to secure the engine onto a stand. Thanks for any help in advance!
Response(s) Your better off to use a lifting plate(bolted to the carb mounting holed)Evens the load.The bolts are 3/8 for the engine stand(bolted to the rear of the block).Hope this helps. I agree with the above answer. If you don't have a lift plate, use a good graded (at least 3-5)bolt and a good heavy duty chain. If you bolt the chain to the alternator hole in each head, use the bolt sized for the hole and be sure to use a bolt with the proper length to do the job. Make sure it goes through the chain (it is good to use a washer between the chain and the bolt and make sure the bolt goes in the head at least 1/2 - 3/4 inch. The engine will tend to swing sideways with this method unless you use two chains and 4 mounting points on the engine to balance the lifting. This is why the lift plate is better. As stated above, use the same size bolts for the engine stand that your bellhousing uses to bolt to the block. You don't have many choices here.
Question From: jeff 2008-08-30
Question: Does anyone know the light bulb number that goes in the little round lights on the sides of the front fenders? I bought new housings, but they came without bulbs in them. Response(s) my service manual says number 1895 for a 1968 plymouth side marker . What brand of bulb it doesn't say.
Question From: curt betters 2008-08-24
Question: I have a 1974 Road Runner built on 7/31/1974 and was wondering what the VIN is of the last RR to roll off the St. Louis assembly plant. I would like to know how close my car was built to the last one (at St. Louis plant). Much thanks. Response(s)
Question From: Gunther 2008-08-17
Question: I have a 1970 Road Runner that I have owned for a very long time. Several years ago I got rid of the original 383 (dumb move) and bought a 1976 440. I completely overhauled the 440 .60 over bore. Putting this motor back in wasn't too bad, but I had problems with the headers being very close to the steering column. I also had overheating problems which I pretty much solved with a 4 row radiator. The car to this day runs very well. I found out later through the years the difference in the blocks. B blocks and RB blocks. I am assuming that the reason the motor ran hot was because of the 76 block and giving me problems with the steering column. What I would like to know, do I need to get a block 1972 and earlier 440 or go back to a 383 to get a good fit and eliminate my problems? The reason for the change now I am wanting to build a much higher HP motor and not use the same 440. Thanks Response(s) Here is a little lesson in Mopar engines. The term "Big Block" are all the engines with the distributor in the front. This includes the 361, 383, 400, 426 wedge and Hemi and the 440. The term "RB" refers to the 426 and 440 engines. They physically are wider and taller than the "B" engines which are the 361, 383 and 400. The small block Mopar engines are the 273, 318, 340 and the 360. All of these have the distributor in the back of the engine. The 440 blocks were externally the same for all years so going to an earlier block will not help with your header fitment problem. Going to a 383 block may or may not help depending on the header pipe routing. The 383 is 3/4" shorter in height than the 440. This will definitely impact the way the headers fit. Without being able to see how they currently fit it would be impossible to tell you one way or the other. If I were you I would contact the manufacturer who made the headers and ask their technical department if the headers in question will work with a 383. Good luck on your research. I hope the header manufacturer can help you in solving your dilemma I too put a 76 440 block in a 69 RR. I used TTI headers. Fit like a glove. No problem whatsoever.
Question From: john 2008-08-16
Question: Is there an option for making the hood scoops functional on a 1973 or 1974 Road Runner? Response(s) Nothing from the factory was available to make the hood scoops functional. i used a ramair set up from a 1972 mach one mustang with the open screen vents and a dual snorkal air cleaner from a 440 and it works gret fit right in
Question From: pat 2008-08-11
Question: Can anyone give a few pointers on changing out dash pad on 71 B-body Road Runner? Bolt location, what to watch out for etc? Thanks. Response(s)
Question From: Richard Colvin 2008-08-10
Question: I need help in adjusting the front end ride height on my 1973 Plymouth Road Runner any assisstance would be appreciated. Response(s) get yourself a service manual, yearone has them , thier full of info.
Question From: Pat Iurilli 2008-08-10
Question: I really appreciate all of the great help that all of you guys have been to me. I have another question for all of you, this time about motor oil and transmission fluid. I have heard that the modern motor oils and transmission fluids have removed some of the additives that used to be in them, that new cars no longer need, but which old cars still do need, so it is recommended to frequently use a product such as Lucas oil treatment, or Lucas transmission fix, which still has those additives in it. What do you guys think about this issue? What are your opinions on how to keep a healthy and happy engine and transmission in an old car? Thanks, Pat. Response(s) I have a beefed up 383 in my 69 road runner and I run Wal-Mart 10W-30 synthetic in it with zero issues. The price is right (less than $15 for 5 quarts) and it lasts a good long time since I don't put a lot of miles on the car. I probably only change the oil twice a year and when I do it is still amber in color. If you need to run a non-synthetic due to higher mileage then use one of the oils formulated for high mileage engines. 10W-30 or 10W-40 should be more than sufficient. If you are concerned about certain additives missing in the oil then by all means add them yourself. I certainly won't hurt to do so, especially if it provides you with some peace of mind and is affordable. As for the trans - I don't know since mine is a 4-speed. I just use 80W gear oil in it and it perfroms flawlessly. Shifts are smooth and precise with no binding or anything like that. The new oils are good, no doubt, but there have been some friction modifiers removed. My cousin works in the Citgo Oil Refinery in Lake Charles , LA, and he said the newer oils are better in most ways, but when it comes to non roller rockers, they are lacking, and he recommends an additive for that purpose. I was also talking to another friend who had just wiped his cam in a new engine, and he said he got the same story from Comp Cams, if you're using non roller rockers, especially on a new rebuild, use additives. And after saying all that... I've not been using any, and so far I've had no problems. Maybe it's all just a matter of luck. Pat, I agree with everything above. The simpliest way I found to correct the friction problem is simply to add a bottle of ZTTP additive to whatever engine oil you prefer. It is the additive that was taken out of the newer oil. It was needed when most engines had the flat tappet style of lifter. Its purpose was to prevent unusual wear of the camshaft and lifters. With today's roller lifters, the friction is very low and the ZTTP additive is not needed. Several places, such as Year One, has the additive. Some racing oil, such as Pennzoil, still has sufficiant ZTTP to prevent the wear. I have used it a couple of years with no problem to my valvetrain.
Question From: Richard La Cascia 2008-08-10
Question: I have a 1970 GTX 440 4-spd air grabber. The engine has a holley 4160 from a 70 383 on it now that I would like to replace (list 4367) 390cfm. My question is is a new Edlebrock Thunder AVS and the original Carter AVS the same in height dimensions? Hood clearance with the air grabber is a concern of mine. A stock Carter would be great to if I could find one. I am not really concerned about originality at this point and would like to get a carb that will be better suited for my engine. PO seems to have altered the stock air cleaner to fit the holly, slight interferance with hood now. Any thoughts? Thank you in advance Rich Response(s) If concerned about the external dimensions I would call Edelbrock's tech line directly and talk with them. It seems to me if I remember my chat with them that there is no external difference but internally there are many differences from the original AVS - but talk with Edelbrock's people just be be sure about that. If you want an original AVS there is usually a good selection to be had on ebay. I've bought carbs off ebay sellers and never had a problem. You can almost always find a good 70 AVS for a 440 there.
Question From: Ron Williamson 2008-08-07
Question: What are the specs for the striping on the 1970 GTX Road Runner? The stripe I would like to have made runs down the center of the hood. Thank you! Response(s) Ron, Check the top irght of this restroation page. This website has provided the specification for the 1969 and 70 hood stripes in a pdf. format.
Question From: Matt 2008-08-02
Question: How do I adjust steering gear on 69 Road Runner? When my front wheels are straight my steering wheel is off by 1/8 of at turn. I can't adjust the steering wheel or where the steering column meets the gear box because there is a key way in both. Response(s) Matt, If everything is properly aligned in regards to the steering wheel on the steering column shaft and the sahft is on the steering box properly, the adjustment is simply the tie rod ends. Set your steering wheel to its normal position and adjust each tie rod adjustment sleeve to position your wheels stright ahead. Once you get them close, have an alignment shop set the toe accuratly unless you have a set of the toe plates so you can do it yourself. OR just take your car to an alignment shop and have them set the toe properly. Be sure to show them the problem. Mnay shops will not take the time to set the steering wheel correctly unless you ask them to.
Question From: Robert Klopp 2008-08-02
Question: I recently aquired a 69 Road Runner. It was completely redone. It is an orignal 383 car, but has a 440 in it now, with a single 4 barrel. The car was built for the drag strip. A volt meter was installed, but it is always reading about 13 volts. Even when the car is turned off. My question, is there something wired different that I should have someone to look at it? Starting to get frustrated. I am looking for an answer. Thank you. Robert Response(s) Robert, The voltmeter is probably installed across a circuit that always has battery volts on it, such as the firewall starter relay. It is simply measuring battery volts. Without the car running, turn-on the headlights, you should see the battery voltage drop at least 1 volt. When you start the car, you should see the voltage go up to around 13.5 to 14 volts. My question is the meter may not be measuring right. If you have access to a known accurate voltmeter, measure across your battery terminals and compare it to your in car voltmeter. If it is off, sometimes they can be adjusted, if not, live with it taking into consideration how much it is off or replace it with a better meter. If your ammenter is working in the dash you don't need the voltmeter anyway. Hope this helps.
Question From: Jeff Keith 2008-07-27
Question: I am currently researching and planning to buy a 1969 Road Runner as factory correct as possible with 383/4spd set-up in $25-30K price range. Some general questions for any current owners out there
1- Was/has your car been repainted and/or needed body work when you obtained it? Should I assume most of these cars have been?
2- How/where/when do you store your car? I live in the Northeast so this question is critical.
3- Registration and insurance. Does your car have regular or any special plates? Is your car insured yearly? Type of coverage? I live in MA
4- Any problems with state inspections? Exhaust systems, there is no emissions test required in MA for vehicles over 25 years.
5- What type of fuel do you use? Regular unleaded OK in 383?
6- Service and parts. Where? yourself, dealer, private garage? general replacement parts? filters, plugs, etc?
Any feedback greatly appreciated Response(s) Jeff, Please list your email and I will give you my phone number. You have a lot of questions that are better answered by phone. thanks for the reply. e-mail your phone # to me and will give you a call. will be out of town next few days but will check e-mail when I get back
Question From: Pat Iurilli 2008-07-24
Question: Hi all, I was reading the Road Runner Site Restoration Q&A archives, yes, some people actually do read them, and came across a question,
that had not been answered, so I would like to ask it again, in hopes of receiving an answer this time. This was asked on July 18, 2005: "I have a 1968 GTX, and am looking for a GTX club and registry to join, does any such organization exist? Thank you." Response(s)
Question From: fran fistori 2008-07-23
Question: How far does the stripe paint go in the jam on a 1969 Road Runner? Or, does it stop on the edge of the fender? Response(s) Fran, If memory serves me correctly, most stripes will continue over the edge of either the hood or cowl on the VERTICAL surface(s). That is, if you are looking at the cowl stripe, the stripe would be on the top and continue over the edge,stopping at the top of the firewall. If not, the stripe would look bad standing to the side and looking at the stripe. Hope this helps.
Question From: fran fistori 2008-07-22
Question: On a 69 Road Runner hood stripes, how far does the black stripe paint go in the jams of the fender and cowl? Response(s) Not sure what you mean. The stripes extend all the way to the base of the windshield. how far does the black go inside the edge of the fender
Question From: Tony 2008-07-19
Question: I have a '70 Road Runner with an airgrabber hood. The back corners are in need of some major work. Would it be better to try and fix or would it be better to find the sub struture and replace? Surface skin is fine with no rust. Response(s)
Question From: Mopower0360 2008-07-15
Question: I have a 74 Road Runner clone with an 8 1/4 rear and have a just gotten a stock sway bar. How do the sway bar plates mount to the leaf srings? Do I have to change the shock plates? Response(s) I know that you do on the '71's, so I would imagine so.
Question From: Will G 2008-07-07
Question: Just picked up a 1969 Road Runner, completely stripped, not a single piece of interior left, to include the dash. So right now I only have the VIN that is on the fender tag, and the DMV requires two matching VINs on the car before they will let me file for abandoned title. Where might I locate the "secret" VIN on a 69 Road Runner? The car is completely stripped so it should be easy to find once I have a general location. Thanks. Response(s) Will, I believe there is a partial VIN number on the radiator support. It is usually beside where the radiator mounts. Depending on paint/dirt, it can be hard to see. Also, there should be a partial VIN on the trunk rail where the gasket goes. Hope this helps. Someone else may have more details. Are you talking about under the bottom of the radiator support? where about on the trunk rail? thanks for the help I THINK the number is beside the vertical radiator mount (about battery level). I have not seen the trunk number on my car. Maybe someone else can help more.
Question From: richard Colvin 2008-07-05
Question: I have twisted the rear lower shock mounting bolt off on my 1973 Road Runner. Any help would be appreciated. Response(s) Check Mancini Racing for a new mounting plate. They also have a replacement bolt if yours has a removable bolt. www.manciniracing.com
Question From: Pat Iurilli 2008-07-05
Question: Hi all, another question: Besides writing to, and paying, Galen Govier, who I have seen mentioned many times on this site, or writing to, and paying, the Chrysler Historic Archives, which I have also seen mentioned here, does anyone out there know of any public access free registries, either on the Internet (preferred) or via other means, for old Mopars? I would like to list mine, and would like to browse others. Thanks again in advance, Pat. Response(s)
Question From: jeff 2008-07-03
Question: Anybody know the Holley List # for the following?Holley Carb for 70 Road Runner, 383, 335hp non California, N96. Book shows Holley 4160 Model 47361A Response(s) Jeff, Go to the website "mymopar.com". on the left side select tools and reference. Then look under driveline specifications and find the carburator section. The chart lists several model years and the carb/engine combos. I didn't see any Holly listed for 1970 except the slant six. Hope this helps. Still confused, Check out this web site www.oldcarmanual.com. Look under R47361A. Jeff, Myabe I am blind but I did not see any Holley number with 5 digits. All I have ever rememeberd Holly having are 4 digit numerical numbers with some additional alpha designation. As far as your engine, I do remember a family memeber having a 383 powered Polara with a Holley carb. I didn't think Mopar used any Holley on the performance 383 engines. All I have ever seen are the AFB, AVS and Thermoquad carbs. Maybe your carb is a non-factory additon?
Question From: ed 2008-06-29
Question: Could someone explain vapor lock and how to correct it? I remember hearing about this when I was a teenager, but never really understood what it was. My 68 Road Runner has a hard time starting after any trip I take. I can see the fuel boiling in the fuel filter after I shut her down. Is this causing vapor lock? Response(s) Ed, Vapor lock is anytime the fuel gets hot enough to boil and becomes a vapor. It will cause the fuel system (line, pump, filter and/or carb) not to be able to pump gas to your carburator. There are many things that can cause vapor lock. Make sure your fuel lines are away from heat sources like you exhaust system, if you have stock exhaust,make sure the heat riser is opening when the engine is hot. If it does not open correctly, it will keep pumping hot exhoust gases under the carburator. You can add an insulating spacer under the carb to help keep it cooler. One fix for vapor lock is to install an electric fuel punp back at the tank and turn it on before you try to start the car. It will prime the system and eliminate the vapor lock. Just read that the edelbrock performer carb that I have is prone to heat soak and they suggested to try a different carb so i will try a holley this time. Any one wondering what carb to buy , learn from my $300.00 mistake ! Try insulating your metal fuel line between the frame and the fuel filter with some a/c 3/8" insulating tape - available at Lowe's or Home Depot. Also try a heat insulating spacer between the carb and the intake. One last thing you can also do is go to www.summitracing.com and look for the Fel-Pro intake valley pan gasket that has the heat risers blocked. This will keep the carb a bit cooler. All told you will probably only spend a maximum of $65 or so - that's a lot cheaper than a new carb.
Question From: Paul K. 2008-06-28
Question: Did all 68 Road Runners come with a silver (argent) front grill or was black an option? Possibly a decor group item? Response(s) Paul, I just finished researching this in detail. As far as everyone that I spoke with said, the only grill color for the 68 Runners was a dark argent grey. NO black grills from the factory. The regular Belevederes and Satalites grills were not painted and were the natural bright anodized finish. Now the problem, I have not found anyone that will sell the proper grill paint. There are several very close dark grey paints but you will need to look at paint charts and make yur decision. I used a dark grey argent paint from GM for mine and it is very close to the Mopar original.
Question From: Pat 2008-06-27
Question: Not a question. But for all you 71-72 Road Runners in need of full quarters, I've found them for sale at auto metal direct. new, not oem $699.99 Response(s)
Question From: mike 2008-06-24
Question: I have a 67 GTX that has fuel, temp, alt, oil pres guage problems. The dash lights work, as does everything else... Does this sound like the dash guage limiter switch is bad? Response(s) Mike, The gauges that use the voltage limiter (the small metal can that plugs into the circuit board on the back of the instrument panel) are the fuel, temperature and oil pressure gauges. (if you don't have the oil light) The alternator or ammeter is in the alternator circuit through the bulkhead connector and indicates actual charge current from the alternator to the battery and the cabling is attached directly to the back of the ammeter. If you know for sure the car is charging (battery voltage jumps up to around 13.8 volts when you start the car as measured across the battery) then you might have a bad ammmeter. I have seen some on eBay. You may have two different problems, I would start with replacing the voltage limiter. Several resortaton parts houses have them. Hope this helps. Ron
Question From: Don 2008-06-24
Question: The left side (drivers) motor mount seperated on my '70 383 Road Runner. Do you need to lift engine out (not just raise the left side) to install a new mount? If not, how does the new mount fit in and how do you tighten nut inside the engine mounted plate? (I tried with NO luck.) Response(s) I am a little confused. I thought most all the Mopar mounts for the B-body cars simply bolted to the engine with 3 bolts and the bottom portion of the motor mount was a U shaped bracket. The mount bolted to the frame with a long bolt that went front to rear. I think mine had a nut welded on the back of the bracket so the bolt simply had to be tightened from the front. ??? Normally you do have to raise the engine enough to unbolt the mount from the frame and engine and slide it out. To see what I am speaking of, go to musclecarrestorations.com, click on "See the cars" under the Mopar banner, look down the page and find a brown 69 Runner with a 6-pack hood.Go to page 4. It is a full page of engine shots that show the motor mounts. It may help. Its relatively easy to swap engine mounts without removing the engine. There are two bolts up high that mount to ears on the block and one long bolt on the bottom. Just remove all 3 of the bolts and, jack up the engine enough to remove the mount. Once you have the mount off you can then loosen the bolt that holds the rubber insulator biscuit to the engine mount bracket. Remove the old one, install the new one and reinstall to the block's upper ears. Lower the engine down and install the long bolt in the bottom and you are done. Oh yeah. I forgot to add that you'll also need to loosen the passenger side lower bolt so the engine can tilt, or just remove it completely so you can jack the engine up freely.
Question From: Tony Stalnaker 2008-06-21
Question: My 69 Road Runner is having an electrical problem. I can't get my emergency flasher or turn signals to work. I have checked the fuses and replaced the flashers but to no avail. Also dash lights will not work but overhead light turns on with switch. Are these problems related? I just purchased the car and these are the only problems that I have. Got any ideas. Thanks Tony Response(s) Tony, This is a hard problem to troubleshoot via email. You should disonnect the batttery before you get probing around very much with 40 year old wiring. There are three things I would check to begin with. First,make sure your steering column is grounded. There is usually a samll wire with terminals that is bolted from the column to the dash frame. Second is to check the harness that goes from the column to the main dash harness. It is easy to see as it comes out of the column and simply plugs into the dash harness. Unplug it and see if there is any corrosion on the lugs. If so, clean the corrosion and plug/unplug several times to help clean-up the connections. The last thing is to replace the turn signal switch, there are a lot of electrical dash connections that go through it. I believe the dash lights are a separate problem. Does your emergency brake dash light, high beam indicator light and oil pressure lights work? If so, the dash is getting voltage for the light circuit. The dash light are controled by the dash dimmer switch which has a rheostat that controls the voltage to the bulbs. It could either be bad or corroded. It is a real job to get it out to check. I have included my email in the response field. If you want to talk, email me and I'll give you my phone number. Hi Tony, just read your problem. Did you get it fixed? I have 1971 Plymouth Satellite and have same issues. No turn signals. Swapped the turn signal flasher with the hazardous flasher and turn signal flasher works there. Now see a little bit of smoke coming out from the steering wheel column. Doesn't do it when I disconnect the steering wheel harness. Thanks
Question From: Pat Iurilli 2008-06-18
Question: Hello there, I saw a reply from someone named L Scott to a question posted by Frank Baker on 02/06/08, who said that he found a free muscle car vin search when doing a Google search for something else, but as everyone's Google search results are different, I couldn't find that site, so would you please be so kind as to post the actual www. web site address, so I can go to it directly? Thanks, Pat Response(s) Pat, I don't know the site they gave but here's one I use. http://www.stockmopar.com/mopar-fender-tag-decoder.php?vin=RM23P2R256418
Question From: Rudy 2008-06-16
Question: Anybody else had little bit of smoke coming out of the steering wheel column on a 1971 Plymouth Satellite like on mine. I removed the air conditioner components, replaced the brackets and only running 2 fan belts. Any help would be appreciated. Response(s) I had a 68 monaco that had a whiff of smoke coming out of column. Taillight housing had pinched turn signal wire.
Question From: Brad 2008-06-15
Question: I have a 1970 RR and finishing up on a front end rebuild. I noticed that the ends of my front sway bar bend slightly and can be installed bent up or bent down. Which is the correct way? Thanks! Response(s) Bent down. The sway bar has a "hump" in center (if it is the same as the '69 bar) which should be "up" - going over the radiator to radiator bulkhead support. I incorrectly put mine on upside down back in '05 and drove from Orlando to Columbus for the 'Nats. I didn't notice it was on wrong until I was sitting on the showfield! Doh! I changed it around that night. I noticed I had damaged one of the strut rod bushings during the run up I-75. The car handled fine the whole way up - even with the sway bar on upside down. Needless to say I was quite surprised.
Question From: mike 2008-06-13
Question: I have a 1972 Road Runner and have just purchased a new headliner for it. Can anyone tell me who I can call or how I go about installing it? Response(s) just call around your local upholsters allot will do interiors for cars or try a restoration place you cant tell some one how to put a head liner in but you can show them they are really hard unless if you know what your doing good luck
Question From: bob mack 2008-06-11
Question: Are 1968 and 1969 Road Runner seat belts the same? Thank you Response(s) Bob, I believe they are. The buckels changed from all chrome in 1967 to chrome and black in 68. I believe the 69's were the same. Contact SnakeOyl, they restore belts. They may be able to give you a firm answer. By the way, they do beautiful work but is it not cheap.
Question From: Pat Iurilli 2008-06-09
Question: Hi again all, I have another question for you. Can anyone give me a referral to a mechanic in the Central NJ area that knows about old Road Runners and GTXs from the 1960s? I am in the New Brunswick/Edison area. I am having some problems getting my carb to run right on my 1967 GTX, and my current mechanic cannot spell GTX... :-) Thanks in advance for your assistance, Pat Response(s) Pat, Do you have a tuning problem or does your carb need a rebuild? Contact me at my email, I may be able to help you. The interior in my 69 runner is Saddle/Tan including the seat belts. The bukles are a combination of chrome and a tan metallic color on the face of the buckle. They had many interior colors and the buckle faces s were painted the color of the interior. Hi, thanks for the reply, what is your e-mail address? Please send me an e-mail at patlionel2@yahoo.com. Thanks, Pat
Question From: Pat Iurilli 2008-06-08
Question: Hi all, I saw information on this site for stripes on the 1969/1970 Road Runners, but does anyone out there have information that they can share with me on the placement of the hood stripes for a 1967 GTX? I know that they start at the front of the hood, then they run across the hood scoops, and continue over the cowl, but I would like to know the exact width and placement location. Thanks very much in advance, Pat Response(s)
Question From: David Endres 2008-06-08
Question: Is there a trick to installing the front pump on an A-727 (year 68) transmission? I am feeling resistance when it is about 1 inch from seating. Response(s)
Question From: Joe 2008-06-07
Question: I live on the south shore of Ma. I am looking for a good Mopar mechanic who knows his motors. Thanks Response(s)
Question From: David Miller 2008-06-03
Question: I am restoring a 1973 Road Runner and someone stole my doors. Does anyone know where I can get driver and passanger side doors? Response(s) in oklahoma i now a guy that has a couple 73 road runner
Question From: Tony 2008-06-01
Question: How do you remove the wiper arms from a 72 Road Runner? Are there clips to remove before they will come off? Thanks Response(s) My 72 road runner has a clip on the bottom of the arm then you have to push them up and pull i think there is some kind of spring that holds them there to i may be wrong ah hell I dont know I got one off after I got the clip off does that count i just dont know how lol good luck I just did my wiper linkages on my 72 Roadrunner. Its really easy all you have to do is grab the arm and raise it slightly off the glass. There is a small lever that points upward towards the windshield. Take a small screwdriver and push this slightly down and flip it outward. The wiper arms will come off without any problem
Question From: Joe 2008-06-01
Question: I have an MP disc brake kit on the front I put on bigger tires and now my flex line rubs when I turn the wheel. Any suggestions on how I can pull the line back so it won't rub? Thanks in advance. Response(s) Joe, Normally you position the line BEFORE tightening either end so that when the steering is moved stop to stop that the line does not interfer with the chassis or tires. If the line is not long enough to postion it away from the tire and components you may need to get a longer line and simply position it and then tighten everything.
Question From: Garry Gaul 2008-06-01
Question: Is there a site where anyone has bought left hand threaded wheel studs? I have the lh nuts but Year One does not sell lh studs nor does Paddock. Perhaps you know of another site there for a 1969 Road Runner. Thanks Garry G Response(s) Garry, You might try mopartsracing.com or phone them at 1-336-752-2879. Their website says they have the left and right sets of studs under part number 4120625 but you better call and check BEFORE you order. Thanks a lot ,I appreciate you taking the time to answer, I have been trying to call them but so far just a busy signal.I found the same part # on their site but I see what you mean ,so I will get them on the phone before i actually order them.Again thanks a lot .Garry Some time ago I was able to locate left hand thread studs at my local Central Auto Parts. Another place to try is Autozone, Advance Auto Parts or NAPA. You'd be surprised what some of these parts stores still have. If you want to convert it over to right hand threads on the driver's side you can find those studs just about anywhere.
Question From: Garry Gaul 2008-06-01
Question: Does anyone know a website where I can find information on the exact placement of decal i.e. tire pressure decals, antifreeze decals and the like for a 1969 383 Road Runner? Because if you look at car pictures there are no set positions. For instance, the antifreeze decal is anywhere right of center. Appreciate it if someone knows of a site. Thanks Garry G. Response(s) Garry, I run into the same problem when I was restoring my 68 Runner. I have several resotration books that show un-restored examples of the 68-69 underhood areas. You can tell by the pictures the locations vary slightly. I guess it was whoever was placing them on a car a particular day. Don't forget these cars were built at several plants so there may be slight differences there also. I would get a picture of a professionally done underhood or an un-restored underhood shot and place the new decals accordingly. I doubt you will find a documented placement for them. There are several hardback books on Mopars, specifically the b-body, that can provide a wealth of knowledge on decals and placement of other underhood lines, etc. I believe this website has the books. Good Luck Thanks for your suggestions I will see if I can find some older pics to compare, perhaps the best 2 out of 3 will win !!! Also I do see a book on this site that may be of interest (original dodge and plymouth 66-70).Thanks again ,Garry G. Garry, I was just on musclecarrestoration.com web site. Under the Mopar section, the black HEMI road Runner has some pictures on the last page showing where they put the decals. There are MNAY others also. Might help. Ron
Question From: Plymouth01 2008-05-27
Question: I need to replace my complete wiring harness, so can anyone tell me the best way to remove the entire dash assembly from a 71 Plymouth GTX? Response(s) try getting a shop manual , year one might be able to help you out
Question From: Tony 2008-05-16
Question: Does anyone know how many 1972 Satellite Sebring Plus in TB3 (Petty Blue) were produced? Response(s)
Question From: Tony 2008-05-16
Question: Can anyone tell me the specs for installing Chin Spoilers on a 72 Road Runner?
Thanks Response(s)
Question From: zach 2008-05-13
Question: I was wondering if any one has ever done a severe roof restoration on a Road Runner. My car is 98% rust free except for the roof. I know that there is a support bracket thats runs across the front and rear of the roof by the pillars. Does anyone know if there is a bracket in the middle? How complicated is this going to be to replace the top layer of the roof? Response(s) by support brackets i mean the brackets inside the roof between the top layer of skin where the vinyl top would go and bottom layer of roof where your headliner goes this is really got me i just dont want to start hacking without knowing what im going to find on the inside
Question From: RUSS 2008-05-12
Question: Does anyone know how many 69 Sport Satellite converts were made? Thanks Response(s)
Question From: Jerry 2008-05-11
Question: I've got a '68 Road Runner with a 727 auto, a 391 rear gear and 15" wheels, 28" tall tires. Need to know what the suggested speedometer gear should be. There was no gear in the original transmission when purchased. Any help would be appreciated. Response(s) Jerry, If you go to "mymopar.com" website, under the Main Menu on the left side, then select Mopar Tools and References, you will be at a great web page with a lot of downloadable information for Mopars. Under the "Chassis & Drivetrain Specifications" section, you will find a speedometer gear chart. It indicates you need a 2538937 (White) speedometer gear. Your local Mopar dealer can order one or you can get one from several parts houses such as Year One or Jim's Auto Parts. Hope this helps, Ron. Jerry, I forgot to mention you also should get the installation kit that has the o-rings and gaskets you need to install so it will be leak free.
Question From: ben 2008-05-07
Question: Question (1): I replaced my fuel level sending unit from 5/16 to 3/8. The new unit has 1/4 inch return for fuel/vapor seperator. Do I really need this expensive device? This is for 440 engine. I was told that all 440, 440 6pacs, Hemi engines used 3/8 fuel line. What a bout the A12 69 1/2 Road Runner? Question (2): My fuel gauge is still reading low. When I replaced unit in the tank, the gauge said e. I poured 11 gallons into two 5 gallon buckets. If I grd the gauge it gose past fuel mark. The sending unit is grouded to the car, replaced voltage limiter. I even bolted an eletronic voltage regulator up to 35 v in t5 volts out, still the same results. Tell me if this could cause this low reading. My car dose have air shocks and the rear is jacked up at least 4 inches. This a 1969 Road Runner gas prices is to high to be guessing 72 ohms empty 12 to 14 ohms full. Response(s) The fuel/vapor seperator helps in reducing vapor lock at the engine due to heat. If your car is prone to vapor problems (hard starting)you may need to add the return line and get the seperator. I have heard from many sources that some of the aftermarket sending units do not work well with the factory gauges. The calibration is off by as much as 1/4 tank. You may be having this problem. I would contact ever who you bought it from and question them. It sounds like you have tried most everything that normally is a problem.
Question From: Ron 2008-05-07
Question: 1968 Road Runner, on the door glass there is a window slide that mounts to the window where can I get these slides? Thanks. Response(s) I got mine from Tonys Parts (www.tonysparts.com)in Delaware. He is great at helping you get small parts such as this. Check his website and give him a call. The slide is attached to the window with a nylon fastener or rivet, you will need to ask him for them also. OR where you can get them.
Question From: RW Eggert 2008-05-05
Question: Can you recommend a good restoration shop on the East coast? I've got a 68 that needs a complete restoration. Thanks. Response(s) a recomendation on a car restoration is always a nice thing to have But you really should do a little looking for your self im not being mean what Im trying to say is go to shops around your area and ask them to see there work look at the cars top to bottom left to right ask about what they specialize in can they weld do they use lead,fiber glass,filler or some kind of other method have they done a old car how long have they been doing it just some things to ask and look for I have a guy here in michigan that could easily compete with chip foose hes that good depending on what you want to spend on the cars restoration is usually how they determine the quality of work they do and what kind of material they use good luck Hodge's Restorations are in South Carolina (I think) There website shows several of their projects. You might want to check them out. You may also want to go to Galen Govier's website. (gvgovier.com). He is the guru of all thing Mopar and he has recommendations posted. (Grey Sheet) Good Luck S&S Restotrations, Williamstown, N.J. Saw his work on a 67 GTO Conv. Frame off was super nice. Paint was flawless.
Question From: Bernie 2008-05-05
Question: I just purchased a 71 GTX with the power sunroof. I'm told this is one of 32 GTX's with this option. The sunroof option is not coded on the fender tag and I have no build sheet. Was this option on the build sheet only? Response(s) You may need to send Galien Govier your information unless someone just knows the answer. His website is gvgovier.com. He is the guru of Mopars and can research (for a fee)most anything Mopar so you will have a straight answer.
Question From: johnrobbins 2008-05-04
Question: Can someone tell me the correct trunk mat for the 70 Road Runner and the correct spare rim and tire combo? Thanks. Response(s) Plymouth put in whatever they had in the trunk as the car went down the line.YearOne or the Paddock can fix you up.
Question From: Bill 2008-05-04
Question: Looks like I need a dash pad for my 69 Road Runner and so what I need to know are the repops any good?
As it is a color one and would have to be dyed or should I send out to get it done?
If so who's got the best dash pad for the money?
Thanks,
Bill Response(s) Just Dashes does a lot of the dash pad restos for the magazines, they can do any pad, almost any color, but are not cheap at all. To re-do the pad on my 73 Road Runner, in green, I was looking at $250-$500. But they do outstanding work.
Question From: mike 2008-04-28
Question: Hey everybody. I have a 73 Road Runner, originaly a 340 car but now with a 440...anyways I've been thinking about putting the huge PLYMOUTH letters on the ends but Im not sure if this would be to taboo or incorrect. Were there any 73's with the Superbird Plymouth decals on them? I know people customize their cars but I don't want this chicken to look stupid. Anybody? Response(s) Mike, I ordered a new 73 RR with the 440 GTX option package. If I had only known there were only 117 made. Personnally, I think the Plymouth decal would look out of place on the Runner. I would add the correct stripe kit including the 440 hood bulge decal. The side stripe kit that comes down the side and over the top looks good. The Plymouth on the rear quarter might be too much. Your call, your ride.
Question From: Bradley Waitkus 2008-04-23
Question: What parts on a 1970 four door Satellite can be used on a two door? For example, are the front fenders, decklid and windshields interchangable? Response(s)
Question From: george d hodge 2008-04-21
Question: Should I use base coat clear paint or a single stage paint to restore as close to original as possible? Response(s) The key words in your question is "close to original". If you are going for a true original concourse level then I would say go with the factory acrilyc (sorry about the spelling) enamel. I have the enamel on my car and it is nearly as nice as base/clear. Remember, the factory paint jobs were not the best in the world. If you want a mirror paint job much better than factory, then go base/clear. It is your call as to the end result and use you want for your project.
Question From: stan 2008-04-20
Question: I have a 1969 Satellite that the hazard flashers do not work. I can not locate the flasher for the hazard lights. I found the turn signal flasher and relay or flasher that is about 1 inch in diameter and about 2 inches long. When I took it to the parts store thye could not replace it or know what it was for. Any help would help. Thanks Response(s) Normally the flashers are held in place by a metal spring clip bolted on the dash rail under the radio, etc. Year One and other restroation parts houses have most of the flashers.
Question From: Kevin 2008-04-20
Question: Can anyone help me track down the issue here? My 69 RR (383 auto on the floor) won't start. Battery is fully charged. When I turn the key to "start", I get a click (sounds like a relay snapping open/shut) and the car's electrical system goes dead. No lights, nothing works. I have to put a jump on the battery for a second or two to get the non-igntition systems back (lights, radio, etc). Then I'm back to square one, battery works, non-ignition works, but turn that key to "start" and the all electrical dies. I replaced the starter relay, thinking that might be the issue, but no change whatsoever. Thanks for your help. Kevin Response(s) Check your fuse link and you my replace the starter solinoid. I would suspect a key switch first of all, especially if you have already replaced the starter relay on the firewall. Kevin, With everything charged and hooked up as it is supposed to be, turn on your headlights and have someone try to start the car. If your headlights go very dim, then either the battery cannot supply the current needed (bad cell, volts may look ok), the starter is shorted and is pulling your battery down so all your other electrics go dead or possibly even a bad positive OR negitive battery cable or end. To eliminate the ignition switch, you can jumper the starter relay on the firewall (jumper the small wire to the large stud holding the large cable going to the starter)and see if the starter turns the engine. If it does, you may have an ignition switch problem. If it does not turn the engine, the starter, solenoid or cable must be bad. Contact me at my email and I can give you my phone number if you need more help.
Question From: Greg Kutsch 2008-04-17
Question: Can someone tell me if an Edelbrock Victor series intake manifold for a 383 will fit under the hood of my 1969 Road Runner? Intake is approx. 6.10 inches tall from what the catalog says. Thank you. Response(s) I answered my own question measuring from another Roadrunner. It will not fit, approx. 2 inches too tall.
Question From: Mike Hardin 2008-04-17
Question: I was going / in the process of restoring a '72 Satellite. Body works looking good but I want to change the course of the restoration to a restomod. I'm now toying with the idea of purchasing a salvage Charger SRT8 and swapping everything into the '72 Satellite...engine, trans, dash, electronics... One thing I've found out is that the '72 tunnel will have to be modified to fit the factory 5 spd trans. Has anyone done such a project and what are the con's? Is there a tranny mount available? I know Shoemaker makes engine mounts for a 5.7 / 6.1 conversion and TTI makes headers. Thanks for your advice in advance. Response(s) Real big hammer, torch and a welder. If it don't go good drink more beer.
Question From: tom munsch 2008-04-17
Question: One of the guys that works for me has a 1968 Road Runner. It has a 440 in it w/automatic transmission. The transmission has craped out. What he wants to do is put a 4-speed in it. He doesn't know where to start to find a 4-speed transmission & the linkage, clutch, etc. to make this happen. Can he buy these parts new? Or, do you have to find used parts? I have no idea how to help him to find the parts he needs. Is there anyone on this website that would know where to get these parts & what all it would involve to do this? I've tried to search the web to get ideas but have really not had any success at all. I need help. If you could help me it would greatly be appreciated. Just for reference I'm located in the dfw, TX. area. Thanks Tom Response(s) Tom, Everything is available, whether it is new or other sources. Sources like Brewer Transmissions can provide the correct transmission, clutch fork, throwout bearing, shifter, boot, z-bar, brackets,pivot balls and the clutch/pressure plate. Places like YearOne can provide the transmission tunnel and similar parts plus many new parts listed above as well. EBay (search under 68 roadrunner or mopar 383 or mopar 440)usually has the 11 inch bellhousings you will need and the rear transmission crossmember (make sure the transmission and the rear crossmemeber match as there are two different tailshafts and mounting locations), flywheels can be bought new as can the clutch. You will need to determine if you want a factory type 4 speed shifter or just go with the aftermarket Hurst unit. Be sure to get the true 11 inch clutch and not the 10.95 scolloped. They are not the same. Year One also has the bracket for the z-bar that will need to be welded to the frame rail. Don't forget to install the pilot bushing in the flywheel end of the crankshaft. Contact me via email and I can give you my phone number if you want more detail. Two things I forgot to memtion, you will also need the clutch pedel assembly and the clutch rod w/boot that goes from the pedel to the z-bar. After taking a look at their website, I think Brewers (brewersperformance.com)can supply most everything you need to convert from auto to 4-speed.
Question From: rich 2008-04-13
Question: I have a 1970 Road Runner and I want to know how wide are the factory stripes up the hood supposed to be and how far over from the blacked out center do they start? Response(s) Rich, Go to the following page and at the right top corner above the questions is a link to download a PDF file with all the measurements you will need. http://www.roadrunnersite.com/restoqna.php
Question From: Joe 2008-04-11
Question: A pillar trim - for 69 - is anyone reproducing these? I have yet to see a used set in good shape and they all have the top tabs broken off! Response(s) Joe, I have seen new replacements from several sources like Tony's Parts (tonysparts.com) and others like Year One and Jim's Auto parts. I think the 68-69's are the same.
Question From: Tony 2008-04-11
Question: Is there only one location for the VIN stamping on the radiator support for a 70 Road Runner? Mine isn't where most of the photo's show it (right on the top lip) but rather down on the backside kind of hidden by the radiator. Response(s) I guess I answered my own question... duh
Question From: zach 2008-04-10
Question: I found this 1971 Road Runner it is a 383 3 speed car supposed to be numbers matching and it has buckets but no console is this right? If so, how many 3 speed 383 were built in 1971? It would be greatly appreciated. Response(s) The standard manual trans in 1971 was indeed a 3 speed unit. Bucket seats with no console would not be out of the wuestion for an "economy" muscle car. If you can find the build sheet you can verify whether or not the car came with a console. Its a good find with ot without a console.
Question From: Jack Hawkins 2008-04-07
Question: I just bought a Plymouth Satellite and the previous owner disconnected the wipers from the motor. I'm trying to put the wipers back, but am wondering if there are any connectors to keep the wiper arms connected to the motor and the wipers. There seems to be no bolts or nuts. Response(s) Press the wiper arms onto the shafts. They are held in place by tabs on the underside of the arm in the socket area. To remove the arm, lift on the tab and pull upwards. Jack, are you speaking of the wiper arms where they attach to the pivots through the cowl or where the actual wiper rods attach to the wiper motor under the dash? First part do as the answer before said, simply push them on the pivots where they come through the cowl. Be sure to run the wiper motor and let it get in its "park" position before installing the wiper arms and blades. If the question is under the dash, there is an arm that bolts to the motor with a nut the serves as a crank arm. The two wiper rods then attach to the crank arm and also to the pivot posts that go through the cowl.
Question From: Joe 2008-04-06
Question: For 69 Road Runner three spoke steering wheel - I can't get the horn pad off to get to removing the wheel - the service manual says to turn the pad counterclockwise - it isn't doing it - any suggestions? Response(s) Remove the center button from the steering wheel pad. Beneath the button you will find a 1/2" bolt. Remove the bolt and the horn pad will come off.
Question From: brian sheffield 2008-04-03
Question: Can any one tell me if the 4 door 1970 Satellite quarter panel wheel openings are the same as a 70 Road Runner and the same for the outer half rear wheel wells I want to piece the wheel lips and lower quarters in on the Road Runner and have a clean no rust 4 door to cut up. Response(s) Hi Brian, I am in the same situation and have a four door to use as a parts car. I posted a question asking what four door parts can be used on a two door. Could you please let me know what you've found out and I will ask around to see if the wheel well trim is the same size and/or will fit the Road Runner. Thanks for any help you could give! Brad You are the only one to respond to my question. have you found out any info? I live in michigian are you very close?
Question From: John Anderson 2008-04-03
Question: How do you adjust a Road Runner horn? Mine goes beep-beep. On the Barret-Jackson Auction a Superbird on stage activated the horn and it was more of a meep-meep, kind of muffled. Response(s) John, The Road Runner horn, when adjusted correctly, has more of the beep-beep sound, just like the cartoon bird. If you want to adjust your horn to your liking, there is a small knurled adjustment screw on the side of the horn. This adjustment is VERY sensitive and a VERY slight adjutment will have a major effect on the sound. Make a mark on the horn and adjustment screw for a reference so you can put it back where it started if needed. Have someone be in the car to blow the horn, make a VERY small adjustment one way and check the sound. Reverse the adjustmnt direction if the sound you want is not acheieved. If you go to much, the horn will stop working. Set the screw back to the starting point and try again. Good Luck
Question From: Gary Cross 2008-04-02
Question: Hi! I am about finished restoring my 1st car I owned, it is a 1968 Plymouth Sport Satellite, way back when. I am having a little bit of trouble in the trunk area with the jack placement anyone out there have a solution as to where the jack is supposed to be placed under the tire on top of the tire what direction it is supposed to be placed as to the top and bottom, front and back? Thank you in advance for the advice ALL will be APPREACIATED!!! Thanks! Gary Response(s) Gary, Go to musclecarrestorations.com website. Select "See the Cars" from the left picklist. Then select the Mopar set. Under the "Featured Restorations" you will see a Black 68 Road Runner 4 speed car. Select it and click on the link for all the pictures. On page 28, there are two pictures of the truck area exactly the way the jack and tire should be positioned. Should be the same for your car. Hope this helps.
Question From: Joe 2008-04-01
Question: For 69 RR - regarding the the heat control panel - does anyone reproduce the FAN and TEMP plastic levers? Is there supposed to be a light on this panel? Response(s) Not that I have ever seen, someone else may know different. I have seen several complete panels on eBay for a reasonable cost. A far as I know, there were no lights on the heater control panel.
Question From: 53Elbear 2008-03-30
Question: I have a question about the alternator wiring for a 69 Plymouth Sport Satellite. The replacement alternator I installed has a 3 connections, one for the battery output and 2 marked Field. The regular has one wire going to the alternator that is marked field but which connections does it go to on the alternator, since the are both marked field? What connects to the other connector marked field. One field connector is 180 degrees from the Battery connector, the other is 90 degrees. My car has the old style regulator. My wiring harnnes only had 2 wires going to the alternator I do not know if a wiring is missing or not. Response(s) Connect the one field wire from the regulator on your harness to either of the field terminals on the alternator. Make and hook up a jumper wire from the other field terminal on the alternator to a suitable ground. I believe MasterPower's website documents this. Opps - I meant PowerMaster - check their tech help. FYI - The procedure above will work fine. You purchased an alternator the was designed to be used with the newer electronic voltage regulator which uses a two wire system to control field current. Your original mechanical regulator used only one wire to control the field current. On the older alternators, one field terminal was grounded.
Question From: Zach 2008-03-30
Question: I posted below about the Broadcast sheet for the Road Runner its actually for a 1972 Belvedere/Satellite Road Runner its VIN# is RP23M2G186291 it came with the Premium Price class had a 400 1-2bbl 8 cyl 2dr hard top I had to clear a few things up good luck. Response(s)
Question From: Harold Smith 2008-03-26
Question: My brother gave me a 73 Road Runner. The bird is in need of a major resto job. I know the complete history of the car, it came with the 400 motor but my brother blew it up. I still have it, but I'm thinking about dropping in a new 440, and pulling the 3 speed column shift auto and replacing it with the 4 speed pistal grip. I know in the past the 73-74 Road Runners haven't had a good resale value, but I've noticed the prices starting to go up. When I restore this car and add the 440 and 4 speed, how bad would it hurt the resale value down the road? Response(s) That's anyones guess as to how bad it will hurt the resale value. Your really not restoring it if your changing out the drive train. To "restore" really means to re-do what is there and bring it back to what it was originally. I personally don't see the 73-74's bringing big bucks in the near or even further future personally. I don't feel you would be hurting it much as far as value. If its a rare car with rare features then that may be a different story. It doesn't sound as though it was any thing out of ordinary. If we really knew what these cars do as far as value in the future I would have never passed up buying several 71 Cuda's I had the chance to buy over the years. Value on these cars is kinda unpredicatable. What dictates their value is demand and then supply. I bought a 72 Rallye Charger with 440-4 spd with dana 60 rear (hemi rear end) back in 1990 and its just starting to go up in value. Still not worth tons of money, but not many 4 spd cars like it out there. Hope this helps.
Question From: Greg Kutsch 2008-03-20
Question: This might sound like a simple question, but I can't remember where the dark blue wire from the positive side of the coil goes to. And where does it eventually end up inside the car? Thank you for helping. Response(s) Greg, The dark blue wire is the + positive battery wire. It actually has two functions. When you have the ignition switch in the start postion, the ignition switch applies 12 volts to the coil through the blue wire. When the engine starts and the ignition switch is released to the "run" position, the blue wire is also connected to the white ballast resistor on the firewall. The ballast resistor drops the normal 12 volts from the battery to around 6 volts. This is so the coil will not overheat. Hope this helps a little. Ron
Question From: John Tomsich 2008-03-19
Question: I owned a 1972 Road Runner GTX 440 auto black with a cream colored interior. Does anyone know how many of these cars were made? Response(s) If i am right I may not be but I heard at one time ther were like 500 1972 road runner gtx 440 magnums 4 speed automatics if that fits your description of your car 453 to be exact according to Galen Goviers production numbers.
Question From: Stan 2008-03-18
Question: This is more of a help item then question. I have been trying to resolve a rear oil leak on my 69 Sport Satellite with a 383 H code engine. I found that the block from the factory was drilled wrong for the Rear Oil seal retainer. I had to blue the lip of the seal and bolt it in place. I found out that the bolt pattern was off to the passage side about .065. I had the Retainer milled down .065 on the passager side and cut the side seal grove down .030 to allow sealant in this area. I also had them put set screw in the retainer block to center the retainer on the crank shaft. When I got an even transfer on the crank shaft I lock tight the set screws in place and installed the retainer. I have not had any oil leaking since I did this work to the oil seal retainer block. I have read of several people are having the same problem this may help them. Response(s)
Question From: Bobby Gish 2008-03-18
Question: Do the lines at master cylinder on drum brakes have the lines that have the round mesh around them to be correct for a 69 GTX. Response(s) I was told that they should have the reinforce brake lines that in-line-tube sales. I answered my own question.
Question From: zach 2008-03-17
Question: Hello all just wanted to let you 1971 Road Runner owners that I have a build sheet that may be yours chances are slim to none but what the Heck Vin P23M2G186291 Response(s) That's nice of you, Zach, I hope someone is looking for it! It's also a long shot but I'm looking for a build sheet for my car... VIN RM23N0G172541 1970 Road Runner If that 6th digit is actually a "2" like I am thinking it is, then that broadcast sheet is actually for a 1972 model year car. The "M" means a special order engine was in that car. Nice you are at least attempting to find the person who may have that car. yeah I decoded the vin again its for a 1972 400 1-2bbl 8cyl 2 dr hard top Premium price class
Question From: matt d 2008-03-17
Question: Does anyone know of a company that make repo steelies in size 15x4.5" or 15x5"? Gonna be put on the front of a 68 runner. Anything would help thanks! Response(s) Matt, Have you tried companies like Coker Tire or Wheel Vintiques (wheelvintiques.com). They may be able to direct you to someone if they don't have what you need. Hope this helps. Try Stockton wheel, they made a full set for me and powder coated original style also. fast turn around they make 14 to 20 inch
Question From: Tim Fitzpatrick 2008-03-01
Question: Who does three speed wiper motor restorations? I was going to have The Wiperman do it for my 70 Road Runner, but it appears he closed-up late last year. Response(s) Tim, I think Totally Auto does restorations on wiper motors. Their website is totallyautoinc.com. Hope this helps. If you go to the moparts site or do a search on Jules the wiperman. His work is excellent.
Question From: danny collins 2008-03-01
Question: Hey guys, just found this site lots of great answers. So here is my problem. I just bought a 69 Road Runner with a c.j. batten performance 383. They had converted the ign to mopar electronic with a 72 charger 400 distributor. We changed the holley 650 for a 750 and found the vacuum advance not working. So we got a new distributor, changed plugs, wires (went with msd wires) cap, button. Now the motor idles great and when you romp on it lots of power. But my problem comes in when you try to maintain a certain speed it has a miss like not getting any gas or something. Any suggestions as what to do? Response(s) Danny, Hard to troubleshoot something like this but here are a few things I would look at. Make sure the gaps are OK on the plugs (even if you set them first). Check and make sure the total timing is where you want it (around 36 - 38 degrees). Does the car take nailing the throttle when it is at the cruise point that the problem shows up? If so, it probably is not fuel related. If it bogs, you may have a carb or float level problem. If your carb has a choke, close the butterfly with about 3/8 inch left open and try driving the car. It will not have any power but it may tell you if the problem goes away (richer) then it may have a carb problem. Last thought, can you install the old 650? If so, it would eliminate the 750 as a problem. I would up grade the coil to mopar performance blaster coil P4876732 and also get a msd 6AL box .
Question From: mike phoenix 2008-02-29
Question: I want to change the turn signal switch in my 67 GTX. But dont know how to remove the horn ring to get started. Help...i dont want to break anything! Response(s) Mike, If you have the stock wheel, the center chrome cap on the horn ring with the Plymouth emblem simply twists off. Once off, you will see the nut to remove the steering wheel. IMPORTANT!! DO NOT push or pull on the wheel. USE A STEERING WHEEL PULLER! Your GTX has a collapsable steering coulmn for safety. It has shear pins in the center shaft and break away tabs holding it to the dash frame that can be damaged if you push or pull to much on the shaft. I have a lot of experience with these columns and they can be damaged. Hope this helps. it must not be the stock wheel...it has the half circle grasp bar in it...thanks for your help thou ! Mike, The stock wheel is the 1/2 circle chrome ring with the chrome center cap. If it has a cap in the center with the Plymouth Emblem in it simply twoist it off. The 1/2 circle horn ring stays on the wheel. It can be removed after the wheel is taken off.
Question From: Paul 2008-02-29
Question: Is there any difference between the front fenders of a 69 Road Runner and a 69 Satellite? Are they interchangeable? Response(s) Yes, the two are the same other than if your satellite has side molding the holes will need welding close, Russ
Question From: Elizabeth 2008-02-29
Question: I am in the freight shipping business and have recently set up a shipment for a 1970 stock hood from a Road Runner. The shipment weight was originally 45 lbs and Roadway Express and charged me with 220 lbs for the shipment. I need a spec sheet showing the weight of this hood or something of that nature to dispute the weight with Roadway. Can someone help me? Thanks so much. Elizabeth, Oldgloryfreight.com Response(s) Your rate is going to include the weight of the crate you (hopefully) shipped the hood in.
Question From: ben davis 2008-02-27
Question: 2 question about 1969 Road Runner with 440 engine 9.5 to 1 compresion, action plus weiand intake manifold, holley 750 cfm 3310, vacum secondaries carburetor headers, msd distributor initial timing 18 bftc total timing 36 degrees all in by 3200 rpm msd ignition with rev limiter 4900 rpm chip 4 speed manual 3.23 gears. I keep getting this bog going from 2nd to 3rd gear at 3/4 throttle. I have changed secondary springs the heavy spring makes the bog later in the rpm range the lighter springs earlier in the rpm range. This is the plan I have install a perform throttle body on my holley 750 with no choke horns and ajustable air bleeds. This to give you 25 to 50 horse power gain acording to summit racing. Also installed a o2 sensor edelbrock fuel monitor to check all 3 curcuits idle, cruse, full open throttle. Will this help me figure this out waiting for warmer weather to have bong weld to header collector? Need input. Response(s) Make sure you have the correct fuel level in the secondary bowl. Raise it a rturn an see if it helps. Also, do you have sufficiant size fule lines (and pickup in the tank) to make sure you are not starving for fuel flow. A simple fuel pressure gauge will tell you this. Hope this helps.
Question From: patrick j calvey 2008-02-23
Question: 1970 Road Runner turn signals fender mount...anyone have the correct location. New fenders were not drlled out, old ones gone. Response(s) i thought the 70,s had the turn sigals mounted in the end of the hood scoop along with the engine size call-out???? Russ The 70 RR has the turn singles on the hood call-out with the engine size(as seen from inside the car)This was an option. Rick
Question From: patrick j calvey 2008-02-23
Question: Anyone have a clue how many 1970 Road Runners were produced with 4 speed, bucket seats (console of course) and factory a/c? I was told it was less than 25..........2drht.thanks pat Response(s) They never broke cars down that far in regards to production numbers. Don't be insulted, but many people say "i have one of 2 built coz mine came like this and that and this, etc. When we start trying to say well mine has this and mine has that...there just isn't production numbers to break that down. Most guys try to do that coz they want to try and make their ride worth a lot more. Hope this helps you. Galen Govier has a registry that breaks the cars down by options and build sheet identifiers. Mopar made thousands of Road Runners after 69. Its all up to what the market will bear. Barret Jackson didnt make things easy for the budget builder.
Question From: David Rudolph 2008-02-23
Question: What is the distance in inches between the seams of a vinyl roof on a 1968 Road Runner? Response(s)
Question From: Mike Keon 2008-02-22
Question: What happens when the positive and negative wires are reversed on the coil? Will it cause a lack in power? Response(s) Mike, I have talked to serveral friends that are VERY good in automotive electrics. We all cannot find a reason that reversing the battery input and the distributor lead should make much difference. This is assuming you still have a points type system. The coil is not grounded, the current flows through the windings through the points to ground. When the points open, the collapsing magnetic field around the coil induces a high voltage in the secondary winding of the coil which then goes through the distributor cap to the plugs. An electroinc system may be sensitive to the reversal of the batt/dist wires??? The only thing I can think of that may make a difference in the charging of the coil is if the manufacturer has wound the primary around a special core in such a way as to promote a better magnetic field. Hope this helps.
Question From: David Rudolph 2008-02-22
Question: What is the correct color engine paint for a 1968 Hemi Road Runner - street or race? Response(s) I believe it is street hemi for 68
Question From: charles hooper 2008-02-21
Question: To be or not to be a full replacement rear quarter Response(s) Are you asking whether you need a full replacement? Or, where you can get one? Also, what year Road Runner? full 1970 panels some say they will some say they will some not? autobodyspecialties is coming outor did come out with a full stock repo made overseas and is getting good reviews.
Question From: Russ jenkins 2008-02-18
Question: After fixing the dash harness on my 1969 Road Runner (smoked the turn signal wires from a mis located wire in the column). I re-insralled the harness and now when I turn the head lights on I loose the panel lights. In the park position, the panel lights work fine. I checked the fuse box and once I turn on the head lights, the power to the fuse disappears???? Thanks to anyone that can help, Russ Response(s) Russ, I looked at my wiring diagram (from musclecarwiring.com) which is a laminated two sided full color diagram. I am concerned that since you stated you smoked the turn signal wiring that you have a problem there. The diagram shows that most all the lights (fuse power)go through the turn signal switch (TSS). Have you turned on your headlights and moved your TSS L/R lever to see if anything different happens with the dash lights including the turn signals operation. If you see changes it might tip you off that there is a problem in the TSS. I know this is not much but good luck.
Question From: Rick 2008-02-15
Question: Does anyone know where I can get rear panel for 68 Road Runner? The panel just above the fuel filler. Response(s) If you are referring to the frame piece behind the bumper it is called a rear crossmember...It is available at a few places...Year One, Auto Metal Direct, and I believe Goodmark and the Paddock sell them also
Question From: Don 2008-02-08
Question: Does anyone know the number of Road Runners that were produced in 1974? Response(s) I know it was a large number if I remember right it should be like 15,000 11,555 1974 Road Runner 2 dr coupes were produced according to Galen Govier. Lyle
Question From: stan 2008-02-06
Question: Can anyone tell me were to find a Viton rear oil crank shaft seal for a 69 Plymouth 383? I have looked all over the internet and cannot find one. If not is there a better seal rather then the factory rubber seal and were can it be purchased? Thank You Response(s) Stan, In response to your earlier post about the seal retainer not setting level where it meets the block. IT HAS TO BE A TIGHT FLUSH FIT!!!! The rear aluminum seal retainer MUST fit flush in the block. With no seal in the retainer, you should be able to slide the retainer into postion and the top (bottom) of the retainer should be LEVEL with the oil pan rail of the engine block. When installing the top seal and the bottom seal in the retainer, make sure there are no pieces of the old seal or flashing on the new seal that prevents the retainer from setting flush in the block. If the retainer is cocked or crooked at all, there is NOTHING to stop the oil from pouring out of the engine. Email me if you want my phone number and we can discuss in more depth if you want.
Question From: Don 2008-02-06
Question: Could some one tell me how to remove the heater core from my 74 Road Runner. Mine is leaking. Thanks Response(s) If you have AC it must be drained and disconnected as well as the heater hoses and blower motor. The core is contained in a large box under the dash that I had to completely remove. You must remove the glove box and side panel first, as well as a bunch of vacuum hoses (mark them!) Then lots of bolts and LOTS OF PATIENCE. It will come out with barely enough clearance with the front seat still in. Get a repair manual if you can for the pics. Good luck
Question From: Frank Baker 2008-02-06
Question: Is there a list of all vin numbers for 1969 Plymouth Road Runner 2 Door Sedan made in Los Angeles? As RM21H9E1xxxxx to RM21H9E1xxxxx. Response(s) I found a site on google where you can do a free search for your vin number. The search the I put in was "1968 hemi power brake booster bracket" in a google search. The second hit on the page that came up is a free search for Muscle car vin numbers. Hope this helps. L. Scott
Question From: Stan 2008-02-06
Question: I have a 69 Sport Satellite with power steering. I had to drop the pan to put on a new rear oil seal and when I cranked up the engine to check the oil seal I left the steering leakage off just in case I have to work on it again. The power steering pump was locked up and I replaced it at the same time. When I cranked the engine the steering wheel started turning on its own and it takes a lot of force to prevent the steering wheel from turning. Could there be some wrong with my steering box causing this? Response(s) Your steering box is problably locked up due to contamination. Either rebuild or exchange for rebuilt unit. There are several business servicing these units.
Question From: Stan 2008-02-05
Question: I have a 69 Plymouth with a 383 4 barrel. When I bought the car it had an oil leak at the rear of the engine between the engine and transmission. The enegine was just overhauled with about 4 hours on it, never driven. I put a new rear seal in the engine and after idling about an 45 minutes and giving the engine a little gas the oil leak came back. I can not tell if its coming from the rear seal or above it. It is not dripping a little it is dripping hard from several areas between the engine and transmission. Any ideas on what is causing this? Response(s) Stan, It could be a number of things. First, I assume you still have the windage tray in the oil pan which of course requires two oil pan gaskets. It is very easy to over torque the pan bolts and create a leak. Second, I assume when the rear seal was replaced it was the neoprene type. Again, it is very easy to create a problem here. The seal itself usually is OK (installed the correect direction?)but the side seals from the rear seal retainer can cause problems if the side seals are not installed correctly. Last, there are three pipe plugs behind the flywheel that seal off the lifter galleys. If one of these are leaking you have to pull the transmission and flywheel to repair. You may be able to clean everything really good, pull the inspection pan from the bellhousing and look up into the flywhell area with a flashlight and see where the leak is coming from. One more thing I just remembered, I saw one 440 have a head gasket oil leak that was following the block casting and leaking off the rear of the engine. Another thing, make sure the two fittings just behind the intake valley pan on the rear engine block are not leaking. Normally one is plugged and the other has your oil pressure sending unit. If one of these leak it could also followin the engine block down and look like a rear seal leak. Hope some of these ideas will help. Ron Thank you for that information. I have checked everything to mention but I have not pulled the transmission since its an automatic. Have you ever heard of the seal block having a crack in it causing problems. I have also pulled the rear seal out again since I posted this and the seal was in correct but the rateainer block is not level on the face were it meets the block.
Question From: Gene 2008-02-04
Question: I have a all stock 69 Road Runner with std brakes and want to covert to power brakes. How hard is it to complete this work and find the original parts? Response(s) Sorry Gene, I re-read question and I see that you want to go to power.
Question From: Dave Henderson 2008-02-03
Question: Can anyone tell me the production numbers for a 1973 Road Runner, paint Golden Haze, 340-4v, 727, no air conditioning? Thanks Response(s) They never broke them down that far. Read the post dated 2-23-08 in regards to production figures for a 70 RR I responded to above for more detail. Guys that wanna know how many coz mine is green or blue it don't work. The numbers aren't out there. As far a 73 RR's with 340 and auto 4428 of them. Hopes this helps.
Question From: kolb 2008-02-03
Question: What transmission fluid does Dodge recommend for 1966 Dodge Dart with a 225 slant 6 and 904 transmission? I am replacing the seals. Response(s) You CANNOT use Dexron or Mercon fluid. If you have concerns, buy your fluid or ask your local Mopar dealer for assistance.
Question From: Chris 2008-02-02
Question: Does anybody know the difference between 69 Road Runner headlight bezels and 69 GTX headlight bezels? Response(s) gtx head light bezel is more of a I shape in the center between the two rings that seperate the head lights the road runner seems to go more on a triangler shape on the ends look them up on ebay youll see what i meant there are to explain
Question From: Jay Cross 2008-01-30
Question: I have a 1969 Road Runner that came from the factory with 383 4 speed and is blue with blue interior. I am certain it came from the factory with black carpet, but it has been removed. How can I confirm the factory carpet color? Response(s) Check your interior code on your fender tag...It may be M2B,H2B, are the codes I am seeing for a blue bench seat....either way the carpet should be dark blue
Question From: todd howard 2008-01-29
Question: I am looking at buying a 1973 Road Runner how can I make sure its not a Satellite? Response(s) Make sure the dash and fender tag VIN numbers read RM21. If they dont then its not a roadrunner.
Question From: Mark Jones 2008-01-29
Question: I have a 1974 Plymouth Road Runner #'s matching 400 automatic. I don't have the broadcast sheet, but I do have the fender tag. There is no r-code for radio, and no v-stripe code on the tag. Is this for sure a 100% radio & stripe delete Road Runner? Thanks for any help Mark. Response(s) Not necessarily. Your asking for 100% surety. That's wanting a guarantee that was a delete car of these two items. I don't think anyone can answer that for you. Usually if they were radio delete or strip delete I thought they were coded in that fashion. Good question though. Sorry i couldn't help more.
Question From: Bob Cordeiro 2008-01-28
Question: I just purchased a 74 Road Runner that the prior owner messed up big time. It is missing the radiator support tag with the engine specs. Can anyone let me know what the gap and timing is suppose to be? I would appreciate any help.
Thanks
Bob Cordeiro Response(s) According to my Chilton's book, these are the specs for the 1973 model year. I have no reason to believe the specs will be any different for the '74 model year. The spark plug gap was the same for all years and all displacements. Spark plug gap is .035 for big or small block. Timing is as follows: 318 = 2.5 deg. BTDC manual; TDC automatic 340 = 5 deg BTDC manual; 2.5 deg BTDC automatic 400(175HP)=10 deg BTDC automatic only-no manual 400(260hp)=2.5 deg BTDC manual; 10 BTDC automatic 440 = 10 deg BTDC automatic only - no manual I would say that you could use these specs with confidence. Bob, you can order a new decal for your car from year one or any other outlet that would carry the decals for our cars. I thought maybe you wanted to replace it.
Question From: chad 2008-01-25
Question: Looking at a 71 Road Runner, maybe. Besides the vin on the dash, are there any other # locations on the body that would confirm it's not a Satelite? Thanks regards. Response(s) On 69's you can check the radiator support bulkhead near the top and just to the left (driver's side) of the center of the bulkhead on the engine side of the bulkhead (towards the inside of the engine compartment). They will be almost hidden by the radiator. There should be numbers stamped into it. These should correspond to the last 6 digits in the VIN. I'm not sure if they still placed this info here in '71 but its worth a look. You can also check the door jamb areas as well. Yes, it was still located on the radiator supports but maybe be hard to see with the radiator in place. Sometimes you can see it from the back side if you look closely and the stamp went deep enough. drivers side door, there is a glued on tag with vin on it.
Question From: Kevin 2008-01-24
Question: Hi. I've got a 1969 Road Runner B5 blue with the interior color B7. Can anyone tell me what the "B7" color is (in english)? I'm trying to get some interior dye to freshen up the car are I don't see anybody offering B7-it's all names like Baltic Blue, Jamaica Blue, Dark Metallic Blue, etc.. Thanks for your help-Kevin Response(s) The "non-english" answer is Jamaica Blue Poly. I recently "Freshened" my dash and used SEM vinyl dye for the pads. Hands down it's best on the market, it doesn't scratch and it keeps the vinyl pliable. MIne is black so I'm not sure what they call their blue shades, but check with Totally Auto Restorations, I'm sure they can steer you in the right direction.
Question From: Mike Hardin 2008-01-23
Question: I need to swap a 8 3/4 axle in place of an existing 8 1/4, in a 72 B-Body Satellite. Only info I can find on this swap details a 8 3/4 going into an A-Body. Will the B-Body with an existing 8 1/4 rear accept the 8 3/4 without a lot of modifications? Response(s) The 8-3/4 swap should be relatively easy. You may need to get new mounting plates (the plates the springs bolt to which hold the spring to the rear housing tubes). These can be obtained from Mancini Racing (www.manciniracing.com). You will also need a driveshaft - either from a 71-72 big block car or have one made for you. The last thing to check is the u-joint size. Make sure your trans yoke uses the 7290 yoke (there are 2 sizes; 7260 and 7290 - the 7290 is larger). I'm fairly sure all b-body cars used the 7290 but its still a good idea to verify this. the guys at Mancini Racing should be able to help you with this as well. You'll probably want a set of new springs as well but the ones you have should work for now. It shouldn't be a difficult swap at all.
Question From: Andy 2008-01-22
Question: I have a 69 Road Runner convert. I am trying to find the paint codes for the inside of the doors and for the dash (the metal part). The outside is B5 blue. The inside of the dorrs may be the same color but not as shiney. The dash is a darker blue, no gloss color. Can any one help? Thanks Response(s)
Question From: Mark 2008-01-18
Question: Sorry if this has been addressed already but was wondering if anyone has had sagging problems with new OEM XHD Mopar springs. I need to replace my leaf springs on my 1969 RR and I have read other Mopar forums with bad results with the OEM Mopar leaf springs. A lot of people seem to notice no difference or sagging within a year of installing OEM Mopars. Others seem to have good luck with ESP stock or +1" leaf springs. I currently have 235/60/15 all the way around and am looking for just a slight rake. Any thoughts? Thanks! Response(s) Mark.I replaced the rear springs on my 1968 RR,with HEMI leaf springs.PT# p4452982&p4452983.The LH spg.has 6 leafs,RH spg. has 5+2 half leafs. I also replaced the front mounting brks.and backing plates.The mounting brks. have (2)sets of holes for adjusting ride height.Also replace the upper and lower bushings on the rear spg. shackles.This set up should fix your sagging problem. Look at ESPO Springs and Things Web site. They can get you springs bild for an raise up to 2.5 inches for a good price.
Question From: arthur laliotis 2008-01-17
Question: Could anyone tell me the color code for b3 ice blue polly and b5 blue fire poly both off a 1969 Road Runner? Also does anybody know where the decals in engine bay, trunk and inside doors? Cheers! Artie from down under Response(s)
Question From: Erik 2008-01-14
Question: Great site. I wish I would have found it sooner and saved some headaches. I apologize if this is in the archives, but I didn't see it. Does anyone know the color for the hood scoop inserts for a '69 Runner with the V21 stripes, and the air grabber? I know they were a reddish color but I am looking for something to match to. Response(s) i'm assuming you are looking for the color of the screens and not the filler plate? correct, the color of the screens
Question From: David Smith 2008-01-14
Question: I am looking for a restoration guide for a 1972 Road Runner. All the guides I have found end with the 1971 model year. Can anyone help? Response(s) I also own a 72 road runner and never have found a restoration guide but a 71 is close and thats what i have used in the past what are you trying to find out about the car I have taken apart mine and have really memorized how to put it back together the only thing is the wiring on mine is going to be a custom thing I also own 1972Roadrunner 4 speed car Bought in the early 80,s and is restored. Torred Red in color. Bright orange high impact color I would call it Dave, is there a specific guide for restoring a '71 available? thanks
Question From: Jason Martyniuk 2008-01-14
Question: Does anyone know where I can get the felt strips for the driver and passanger windows? The ones that go on the glass in the window track! Yearone used to have them but not anymore! I'm at the last of my restoration and have NO leads at all! Any help or maybe's would be alot of help! Thanks. Response(s) Check out paddock.com Try www.hardensmcw.com
Question From: Pranay 2008-01-11
Question: Hi everyone, thank you for all your help before, everything suggested worked perfectly. I'm going to attempt a patch on the driver side frame rail to the right of where the lower control arm comes up if your staring at the car left to right from the driver side. I was just wondering, what guage metal should be used and what thickness wire for the mig welder? Thanks so much to all. Response(s)
Question From: mike 2008-01-11
Question: How often should you change the oil in your Road Runner? There is maybe 300 miles a year put on it. Response(s) on a daily driver they say every 3000 miles but when you have a car that dont get much use i would think you would have to change it until probably 1500 miles i would only change it because of it sitting but maybe youll get some other hints on that I dont really know if the oil goes funny just sitting or not Mike, NORMAL oil AND filter changes shouold be around 3000 miles. I change the oil & filter in my 383 Runner in the spring and fall no matter how few miles I put on it. The problem is the oil will retain moisture and other junk from the engine not being run. Even if you do not drive the car it is important to start it regularly and make sure the engine comes up to FULL temperature for several minutes. I keep my Runner on jack stands during the winter and will run the engine at fast idle in high gear. This not only warms the engine but keeps the tranny and rear-end lubricated.
Question From: jeff mathes 2008-01-10
Question: I have bucket seats in my 70 Road Runner, my trim is p6xy gold and black. Upper door frames are tx9, black. So what color are my bucket seats? Response(s) Jeff, I have a 70 road Runner also, black body with a gold dust trail on the side. My bucket seats are black with the ribbing on the bottom seat a silver... If you dont mind me asking how did you find out what color they are. My car is Citron mist metallic gold on the outside and a black vinyl top Jeff, I have 70 RR with p6xy and tx9. I owned the car in 75 and have recently purchased it back and the seats are original. The buckets are gold with a thin black piping around them same as the door panels. the dash, headliner and upper door trim panels are black. I can send pic's if you like.
Question From: Keith 2008-01-10
Question: I have a 69 Road Runner. It has a 70 voltage regulator in it (odd shape connector and flat like the electronic ignition). It doesn't regulate anymore. Since I need to replace it I would like to use a correct 69 regulator. Can I just cut the wires to the old regulator and wire up the new one? Are there any other components that need to be changed out to make it work? Response(s) Found the answer to my question. Needed a little rewiring. Works great! http://www.mymopar.com/charging.htm
Question From: didjit 2008-01-10
Question: I've had a 69 Road Runner 383 auto for about 16 years, 10 of which it's been sitting in a barn. I recently pulled the motor and tranny and rebuilt them. When I rebuilt the body years ago, I pulled the wiring harnesses and break lines with the intention of putting in disks. So here's the question... I have a car with no motor, wiring, or brakes, and I wanna put it all back together. Which job do I tackle first? Is there an order? It looks like maybe put in the brakes first, followed by dropping in the rebuilt motor, and then doing the electrical? Does this sound like the right approach? Thanks! Response(s) I would start with the brakes.You will need the room in the engine compartment to mess with the prop. valve and brakelines along the frame.The engine and wiring can come later on. I would probably do the brakes first (and master cylinder) while the engine is out. I'd also highly recommend a front end rebuild kit. I'm sure your lower control arm bushings, upper a-arm bushintgs and strut rod bushings are all but dried out and shot after sitting so long. Graphite impregnated polyurethane is the way to go for longevity and good handling. You'll also need to replace the power steering gearbox (or have yours rebuilt) if your car has power steering. Next, I would tackle the underhood electrical harness and harness block on the firewall. You should take it apart and clean all the contacts while the engine is out. Get a new underhood harness (if you need one) and replace the old one. Once you've got all that done you can then reinstall the engine and hook it all up. Don't forget to replace the rear soft brake line and rear wheeel cylinders, brake shoes and hardware. The rear drums may need some attention as well - unkess you are going to discs backe there too.
Question From: Vic 2008-01-09
Question: Hi, I have a question for those guys out there that have installed a 426-528 HEMI into their 1968 or 69 Road Runners? I'm planing to put a built-up 528 HEMI with the MOPAR Cross Ram Carb set up into our 1968 Road Runner Poster. Question, will the Cross Ram set-up fit under the stock hood? Or, will I need to buy a glass hood with the scoop?
Thanks for your time and help, Vic Response(s) It is so close to the hood that the air horns have to be taken off so I will say no
Question From: Rae 2008-01-09
Question: I have a 1969 GTX and was wondering about the color paint to use on the grill, tail light housing and the trunk lid panel. I think the trunk panel is trimmed in red but what color is the middle of the panel? Thanks so much. Response(s) Are you talking about the textured argent silver? If so you can get this paint at Year One and at your local Dodge dealership in spray cans.
Question From: Donald V. Listermann 2008-01-06
Question: I have a stock 69 Road Runner, 383 4-speed. Would it be better to change the cam to a (484 purple shaft) or just put 1.6 roller rockers on? Also could I put a set of 915 heads with 214, 188 valves on without hitting the pistons? Thanks Don Response(s) What are you doing with the rest of the engine? If you are keeping it "stock" with the factory intake. carb and exhaust you may want to consider leaving the engine as is. If you are updating the intake, carb and exhaust, the cam you spoke of is good. You need to install the cam and one of the heads you are considering using and check the piston to valve clearance by using two solid lifters, the pushrods and rockers you will be using and turning the engine by hand through a complete cycle. I don't think you will have a problem but there may have been other work done on the engine in the past that you don't know about. Just things to consider.... The Purple shaft cam will be just fine on heads that have not been cut or "milled". You will get more power with a cam swap than you will by going to 1.6 ratio rockers. The 915 heads will be fine as long as they have not cut too much. A surface cut of .005 - .010 is ok. This is usually done to make sure the head surface is completely flat. If more that .020 is taken off you'll need to check for piston to valve clearance just to be safe. On Chrysler big-blocks the main concern with cams below .500" lift is cam duration. The old rule of thumb was anything under 286 advertised duration was ok with a stock head (with minimal surfacing) but anything over 286 adv. duration was no good unless there were valve reliefs in the top of the pistons. As for the rest of the setup - I agree with the above post. Once you start going bigger on the cam you then need to consider the intake and exhaust systems as well as the converter if the car is an automatic - and even the rear gearing. Just going to a bigger cam won't help much if the rest of the setup is left alone. To get the most from the cam you need to improve induction (intake and carb) and also the exhaust in order to expel the additional increase in induction. Headers are recommended but not absolutely necessary if you go to a 2.5" dia. (min.) exhaust system and a set of good, free-flowing mufflers like MagnaFlow or the Dynomax UltraFlow. Headers will be your best option, however. If the car is an automatic I'd recommend that a 2600 rpm converter be added to replace the stock unit as well as a good, aftermarket trans cooler and possibly a switch from 3.23 gears to 3.55 or 3.91. As you can see a "simple" cam swap isn't necessarily so. An option you may want to consider is the Comp Cams "Magnum Muscle" cam for the big-block Mopar. Its not a lot bigger in terms of lift and duration but will make more power due to its more efficient design which allows the valve to be opened faster, thus building more power at the same lift as the stock hi-po cam. I'm using one of comp's larger cams in my 383 and am very pleased with the power output. The Magnum Muscle cam will also have a lumpier idle - which seems to be the big reason some guys want to swap cams these days. Good luck with your build whatever your decision.
Question From: Doug Plumstead 2008-01-05
Question: I am restoring a 67 GTX with a console mounted Tach. The Tach and console were out of the vehicle when I bought it. I have the Tach and the console, but I don't know which wires go where. Help!! Response(s) Doug,Go to www.classiccar wiring.com.They have a laminated color wiring diagram. Rick
Question From: brandon 2008-01-04
Question: Can someone tell me where is my oil pressure sending unit located at on my 1976 318? Response(s) Brandon, The oil sending unit is on the back of the block,just left(pass. side)of the distributor.Good luck,Rick
Question From: jeff Keith 2008-01-03
Question: Could someone with a 1969 Road Runner confirm the following dimensions and specs for me as I will need to know these for storage purposes? Thank you. Length 202.7", width 76.6", height 53.1", wheelbase 116.0", track, F/R 59.5"/59.2", weight 3,940 lb
as a side note are these figures actually listed in your owner's manual(if you have one) and would they be similar for 1968 or GTX models? Response(s)
Question From: mike sullivan 2008-01-02
Question: I have a 69 Charger and would like to have the rear tail lights restored, that includes the chrome plastic trim ring. Can anyone tell me who does this and provide a # or email to contact? Thanks in advance for any info sent. If you do this kind of work and wish to contact me you can email mdstrucks @aol.com or call 410-335-5516 10am to 8pm est. Thanks, Mike Response(s)
Question From: Pranay 2008-01-02
Question: Hello, I'm a beginner at trying to restore cars and I recently purchased a 1969 Road Runner with a 383 and an automatic. I need some help from the experts. I'm trying to pull the motor out so I can get it painted. I tried to disconnect the torque converter by the bolts that I saw on the flex plate, however now my flex plate spins freely and when I stick my fingers behind the plate. The torque converter still seems to be attached to the flex plate still. The bolts I had taken out, were not long enough to reach the torque converter but were the only ones I saw. There supposedly is a stall converter on this car but might that have something to do with my problem. Will the motor still come out in this fashion. Also, I've disconnected the starter, but have no room to remove it. Then I thought maybe if I disconnect the header on that side that would free up some room. But I still can't manage to get the starter out. Should I take out the steering column? Has anybody else ran into this problem? Please any help would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Pranay Response(s) You would be better off to pull the engine and tranny as a unit.There are just 4 bolts holding the converter to the flex plate.When you take the bolts out.,support the tranny so the weight doesnt mess up the front pump.I would do that before taking out the tranny to block bolts.Hope this helps. Rick The flex plate (with the starter ring) bolts to the crankshaft. You cannot get to these bolts with the converter/tranny still in the car. The torque converter bolts to the flex plate with 4 bolts. You must rotate the engine to get to all the bolts. This disconnects the torque converter from the engine. Next you must support the transmission and remove the bellhousing bolts that hold the transmission to the engine. Now, you may need to unbolt the engine mounts and lift the engine slightly on the drivers side to get your starter out. That depends greatly on the brand of headers you have. After the headers are off the engine, motor mounts are unbolted from chassis (may need to remove the mounts from the engine to obtain clearance to slide the engine forward off the transmission), the transmission is unbolted, linkages removed and all wires and fluid lines are removed you should be able to swing the engine out. Don't forget to support the transmission securely. Above all, work SAFE.
Question From: casey chump 2008-01-01
Question: How many 1971 Plymouth Road Runners with a 340, air grabber hood, two tone interior, 727 on the floor were made? Thanks Response(s) Total production of 1971 340-4 roadrunners were 1681 which 438 were manual and 1243 were automatic.
