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Do you have a question or a response to a message below pertaining only to Plymouth Road Runners, GTXs or similar? Messages about items for sale or wanted will not be posted.
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1969
& 1970 Road Runner hood stripe information downloadable PDF
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Search the archive for answers to your questions before you post them.
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Question From:
David Rudolph
2007-12-26
| Question:
Can anybody tell me what vehicle this distributor belongs to #3438577 -- IBS 4019 B -- 41 0 -- Thanks Rudy
Response(s)
Rudy, I checked the MyMopar.com website and found you have a 1971 440 6-pack distributor. Hope this helps.
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| Question From:
DB
2007-12-26
| Question:
Anybody have the spec's and drawing for the steering column on a 71 Road Runner? I have found everything, but the column wiring and internal switches. Thanks
Response(s)
DB, You may try and find a Service Manual either in hard copy or CD.
try chiltons wire diagram manual 70-75 passenger cars,book number 6268 your library should have it,,pretty detailed wiring diagrams
Go to WWW.ClassicCarWiring.com.Rick
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| Question From:
mark
2007-12-25
| Question:
i have a 4 spd, 69 Road Runner, the transmission has no ID pad but does have a casting #c95639, could this be the original trans and if it isn't, is it a correct replacement? Why would there be no ID pad? Any answers would be appreciated, thanks, Mark
Response(s)
mymopar.com has some casting number or stockmopar.com or moparpages.com
just a guess but, it's probably a later model tranny. The 833 cases were pretty much the same into the late 70's.
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| Question From:
Ken Beard
2007-12-24
| Question:
I own a 1970 Plymouth Road Runner SuperBird that I have owned for 30 years now. I am in the process of building a new garage to house the car in and I am planning on installing a Backyard Buddy 4 post lift in my new garage to work on the SuperBird or other cars on. I need to know the overall height, width and weight of my SuperBird for ceiling clearance restrictions before I start construction of my new garage. Any help you give me would be very appreciated. Thank, Ken Beard
Response(s)
Ken, I would think that you could measure your car to find the length, width and height to provide the most accurate measurements for construction of the garage. However, the weight I could see a problem for you to determine. I only found one source in my documentation that said the weight was 3,675 pounds from the factory. I hope this helps.
Ken, Simply measure your car for the outside dimensions. If the car is drivable and you live near one, take the car to one of the truck weighing stations usually around the interstates. I have used the ones here in Virginia. The State Police are usually very willing to assist, plus they will enjoy checking out your Bird.
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| Question From:
Jeff Scott
2007-12-24
| Question:
I own a 69 Road Runner convertible and I'm in the market for a set of armrest pads and ashtrays for the rear. I cannot use parts from a sedan or hardtop they are not the same. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Response(s)
I Dont know where you can these but have you checked out ebay, dvap.com, or even the mopar magazine will give you different web sites another good plaace would be with hemmings you can always have the originals redone if you have them also try the paddockparts.com or dantesparts.com hope this helps
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| Question From:
Greg Hannah
2007-12-21
| Question:
Hello. What is the difference or how can I tell the difference between a Rally Dash and a Non Rally Dash of a 1972 Plymouth Road Runner. Thanks, Greg
Response(s)
Greg, The non rallye dash was just a long rectangular instrument cluster. The rallye dash was a woodgrain bezel piece with circular gagues set individually in the dash
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| Question From:
Jeff Keith
2007-12-21
| Question:
I am hoping to purchase a 1969 Road Runner and have been doing a lot of on-line research(price, location, condition, etc.) and would ideally like the standard 383/4-speed set-up. What I am getting confused on is the factory color of these vehicles. I am leaning toward the blue or green shades with the black hood stripes. I have the chart of factory paint codes/colors which show Ice Blue, Blue Fire, Jamaica Blue Metallic and Lime Green,Ivy Green, Lime Light and Sassy Grass Green. I've also seen a special order color #99 Rallye Green and some odd listing like Q5 Torquoise add LL1 Sea Foam Torquoise. Could someone sort out these colors for me as I would like the car I buy to have a genuine factory color on it. I know the fender tag is a big help with this but am concerned that if the car was repainted it was done in the proper factory color and not in some color the owner thought looked cool. Thank you.
Response(s)
I noticed your question pertaining to color codes for the '69 road runner. The Green hues according to PPG Automotive Finishes were F3 Frost Green Poly, F5 Limelight Poly, F8 Ivy Green Poly, 999 Rallye Green, and Q5 Turquoise a blue-green color. My dad's road runner (later mine) was Q5 and its a very nice color. Sassy Grass was not an available color on the 69 road runners. Good luck on your search. I hope you find a good one.
Thanks for the info on the 69 Road Runner green paint choices that could be of great help. On my further research after posting the question, I came across some info that the Q5 Turquoise shades were only offered on 68 Road Runners, but that must be incorrect if your dad's car was that color. Does your Road Runner have the black hood stripes? I didn't know initially that this feature was an option-V21 Performance Hood Paint (Organosol Black), which I would definitely want to have on my vehicle. Thanks again.
Q5 Turquoise was indeed offered in 1969. See this page for the PPG colors available for 1969: http://69roadrunner.org/pdf/paintchips69.pdf I've seen more than a few Q5 Turquoise road runners. Back when my dad had his there was one a couple of blocks down from the Jr. High school I attended at a Post Office satellite office that looked identical to my dad's car (Q5, black bucket seat interior and Hurst 4 speed) except it had styled steel road wheels and the blocks on the hood read HEMI. It was to die for! Once my dad added the styled steel road wheels in 1971 )he bought it in 1970) you could not tell the cars apart from 50'. My current road runner has the stripes but they were not factory installed. Back when I owned the car the 1st time I had them added when I had it painted in 1985. I sold the car in '88 and got it back in 2000 and it still had the stripes on the hood even though it had been painted in the mean time. In my opinion they make the car. Good luck on your build.
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| Question From:
Matt
2007-12-20
| Question:
I'm looking for a new or used/rebuilt 4-speed trans for a 68 Road Runner with a 383. I really would like to find a used one due to price, but if anyone knows of a good company that produces new, or rebuilds, that would help out a lot. I'm going from a worn out 727 to a 4, so linkage and everything I'm going to have to purchase.
Thanks much. MATT
Response(s)
Try www.brewersperformance.com they have served me well.
Matt, I have a complete unit including an A833, clutch, throwout bearing, linkage, z bar, hurst shifter, pedal,...the only thing I don't have is the bell housing for a big block. If interested, contact me at David.Endres@dts.ca.gov
To go with the response above, there are usually several big block bellhousings on ebay. Search under "383 mopar".
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| Question From:
Mike Panopoulos
2007-12-19
| Question:
I have a 1974 Plymouth Road Runner with 360, Auto, A/C, PS, PB. Is the group 27 battery the correct size for this car even though it is not a big block? Thanks.
Response(s)
Mike, Go to the website MyMopar.com. It is a great website with a LOT of Mopar downloads. From the home page, select "Downloads" from the listing on the left, look under the "electrical" heading and you will see a battery listing. There is a chart showing which batteries were available for your car. From what I remember, you could basically order any battery you wanted as an option no matter what engine you had. Hope this helps.
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| Question From:
Dvaid Rudolph
2007-12-18
| Question:
I have a 68 Hemi Road Runner that doesn't have the correct wheels. I've located a set but I'm not sure they would be correct for my car. My production date was Feb 21, 1968. The markings in between the rims are - 15x6 JK - below that is USA MI/7 839 and the #3 in a circle - all the wheels have the bumps between the stud holes - shouldn't there be a date code on either side of the valve stem - Thanks in advance - Rudy
Response(s)
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| Question From:
mark graham
2007-12-17
| Question:
Hello, I am restoring a 69 Road Runner for a customer. This is first Plymouth I've ever done. Mostly GM stuff. Any way the customer brought me the car in boxes. I have a new wiring harness for the car and for the life of me I cannot find the exact placement for the fuse box. It has dyna mat in the car and I'm not sure if it is covering the spot for the box or what. I know this is a dumb question but could someone tell me or show me where the fusebox goes? 69 Road Runner, 472 Hemi, tremec 5-speed. Thanks for your time, MARK
Response(s)
Hi Mark. The fuse box is located in the vicinity of the glove box. Its on the left side and is shielded from the glove box by a cardboard partition that has a flap with 2 screws in the upper corners. To get to the fuse box when everything is in place all you do is open the glove box, remove the 2 screws, fold the flap down and there are the fuses. I'd suggest that you get a shop manual pronto to help in the build. You can even get them on CD. Do a web search and you should be able to find shop manuals on CD very easily - as well as printed manuals. Trying to build a car without the shop manual will be a very frustrating venture. Good luck on the build - I hope it turns out well!
I agree completely with the first response. The fuse block is attached to the dash frame with 1 bolt from the bottom. The box is under the glove box cardboard on the left side. It is almost easier to unbolt the fuse block and drop it down under the dash lip for servicing. Now you have two options.
Welcome to the wonderfull world of mopar! You're either gonna love or hate, but you will agree it's lot more expensive to love a mopar than any of the other brands. I hope this dosn't burn you with your customer. It's just a matter economics. GM was cranking out 300,000 camaros a year and only 82,000 RRs hit the streets in 69. Nobody made mopar parts until the prices went through roof. Now you can find repop stuff, but they see you comin. Good luck and let us know how things go.
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| Question From:
mark
2007-12-16
| Question:
I need a bunch of sheet metal for my 72 RR. I have been having a tough time finding it, any suggestions?
Response(s)
sheet metal as in replacement fenders, door skins or actual sheets of metal because youll have to go with original parts for the car because they dont make after market parts for the 71 72 road runners, satellites gtx. ect i can find just about anything
I here Goodmark is about to come out with some panels for 71-72 I think quarters first. Check with them for facts.
Talk to Layson's Restoration or autobodyspecialties in Connecticut I've seen some junk come out of goodmark!
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| Question From:
chip
2007-12-16
| Question:
Does anyone have the vin list for the Superbird production, or know how to get it? I am looking at buying a bird and want to make sure it is legite. Thanks
Response(s)
I doubt very highly that there is a vin list of all the Superbirds built. If you need verification as to the originality of the car I would suggest contacting Galen Govier (http://www.gvgovier.com/). He is the authority on all things Mopar and if anyone can tell you he can. He does charge a fee so I'd suggest you contact him and see just what that might be. In dealing with a car of this stature it would be well worth it IMO.
Do you have a specific car in mind or are you just starting your search. Check out the Winged Warriors club for info. All Daytonas and Superbirds were "post-assembled" by a small firm in Detroit and as such there is a plethora of details that can differentiate a clone from a true wing car.
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| Question From:
Zach
2007-12-11
| Question:
I own a 1972 Road Runner everythings #'s matching. I was wondering, have read and have been told many times there were only like 7,000 of the 72's built. Why does mine have a extra number 86262?
Response(s)
Zach, If I am not mistaken and the number you are refering to are the last digits of your VIN number, the number is the production number for all the cars built that year at a particular location based on Chryslers production year. The number is not for a particular car make or model.
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| Question From:
Rick
2007-12-10
| Question:
I just bought a 68 Road Runner and the fender tag is missing and it has no build sheet. Is there any other way to find out what the car came with for options? It's a 4 speed car but it has AC and a rear window defogger and appears to have had a vinyl top at one time. Are these rear options for this year? Any help would be great. Thanks
Response(s)
Send a letter addressed to: Chrysler Historical Collection, CIMS 410-11-21, 12501 Chrysler Freeway, Detriot, Michigan. Make sure you include your vehicle identification number (vin#). They may have your vehicles build information still on file. I need to do the same with my Road Runner. I have the fender tag but not the build sheet information. Good luck.
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| Question From:
john palmer
2007-12-08
| Question:
Does anyone know where I can get floor pans for a 1977 Volare Road Runner?
Response(s)
Have you tried Dvap.com the pans would be used but in really good shape they have anything you can think of car wise and if they dont have it im sure they will help you find what your looking for
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| Question From:
Danny
2007-12-08
| Question:
72 satellite, I am converting my cluster to a rally dash. The wiring on the old harness is different. It has what I would call a revolver style harness. The rally has individual wire set-up. How can I convert without cutting revolver from the original set-up? Do they make a conversion harness so I don't have to cut and splice all the wires?
Response(s)
Danny, I helped a friend do a similar conversion. We found an old dash harness with the round connector that plugs into the instrument cluster circuit board. The female pins from inside the round connector can be unsoldered and removed. You can then crimp/solder the female pins on your rally harness and using the wiring diagram, simply plug each dash harness wire onto the proper pin on the circuit board. The pins need to fit tight so be sure to check the tightness. Once they are connected and operation is checked, you can apply a small dap of RTV/Silicon sealer on each pin to help keep the pins from vibration loose. Good Luck
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| Question From:
Matt
2007-12-04
| Question:
Anyone know of a good company that makes the 69 1/2 six pack hoods. I'm looking for a nice fiberglass lift-off hood that fits nice, and is not a piece of junk. Many people reproduce these things, I'm just wondering if anyone has had any luck with a certain brand/company.
Thanks Matt
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Jeff Mathes
2007-12-04
| Question:
I have decoded my fender tag on my 1970 Roadrunner. The paint code is FY4 and I have the premium trim package P6XY. It says that the interior is black and gold. Can you please tell me what is supposed to be gold and what is black?
Response(s)
mymopar.com moparpages.com stockmopar.com,,for codes, just type in VIN number these sites have a ton of information
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| Question From:
Gus
2007-11-30
| Question:
I have a 73 Road Runner that I put a 383 in, but now im thinking of putting a 440. Am I better off just building up the 383 or just getting the 440?
Response(s)
There is no replacement for displacement. The 440 will make more power and torque with less modification which translates to better driveabilty. I'd go witht he 440, mild cam, good intake and carb, 440 HP exhaust, good ignition. 425 HP and it will run good in traffic and will get reasonable fuel mileage crusing (14-15)with a 3:23-3:55 rear gear.
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| Question From:
Jason Martyniuk
2007-11-30
| Question:
My body guy cut out my rear shock support and was gonna fix it up and weld it back in, instead he threw it out on accident and now im ending my restoration and have no idea where to get one or how to go about making somthing that would work. We thought about welding a plate up there but then my exhaust will not fit threw to the back! I'm running out of time and money, so any help from anyone on here would be very very greatfull!
Response(s)
I don't see why that would be a problem , it should work.
Jason, I have recently seen the shock mount frame as a reproduced unit either at Year One or some of the other restoration parts houses. You should be able to find one to weld in and keep your machine original.
Jason, I copied this description for you to view. It may be what you want. New from Auto Rust Technicians is a reproduction of the rear shock mount crossmember for '66-'70 B-Body cars. A common problem with these cars was the addition of air shocks, which would subsequently erode the holes into ovals, as well as bend or twist the mounting points. Auto Rust Technicians make theirs from 11-gauge steel. Unlike most slip-on, cap-style products, this is a direct weld-in replacement. Autorust Technicians; (401) 944-4444; www.autorust.com
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| Question From:
gary gerard
2007-11-29
| Question:
Does anyone have any information as to how many 1973 Road Runners were produced with 400cu in and 4 speed? Thanks for the help.
Response(s)
There were 2740 1973 400-4bbl Roadrunners produced in 1973. 1991 were automatic & 749 were 4sp. You have a rare bird. I own a 1974 400-4bll auto RR, only 849 were produced. Hope that helps. Mark in london, Canada.
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| Question From:
pappy
2007-11-27
| Question:
I am looking at a 1969 Road Runner, have not seen it yet, but is missing the fender tag. Are these being re-produced? Car is a RM21H VIN#. Thanks
Response(s)
Galen Glovier spelling,,the decoder,,, but you have to have a build sheet mymopar.com, stockmopar.com type in your vin and these will give you your options on that car, fender tag codes
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| Question From:
Rick
2007-11-27
| Question:
Hello everyone, I'm looking for a print of door window installation for a 68 GTX can anyone help? Thanks
Response(s)
About the only place I have ever seen one is the Chrysler shop manual. I rebuilt all the door and glass mechcanisms on my 68 Runner. I took a lot of pictures before I removed parts. The manual helped with what I forgot. You can get them either hard copy or on CD. ebay usually has several. You can also get them from Year One, Jim's Auto Parts, etc.
I am having the same problem as we speak, ive tried for 2 days to just put the driver window in, i keep failing over and over. Plus the felt strips on my windows are falling appart so its making it even harder. If you come up with anything please let me know, and ill do the same for you.
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| Question From:
Tray Miller
2007-11-26
| Question:
I need rear quarter panels for a 1974 Road Runner -can you tell me what other year's are interchangable?
Response(s)
1973 would be the only other alternative. 71-72 are different.
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| Question From:
Tray Miller
2007-11-26
| Question:
Will 1972 Road Runner rear quarter panels fit a 1974 Road Runner?
Response(s)
No...
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| Question From:
Bob Moore
2007-11-26
| Question:
Where can I find what the Codes mean for the VIN numbers on 1968 and 1969 Road Runners so I can tell what it came with from the factory? New to Road Runners. Thanks
Response(s)
There are several sources. One is this website. Check under the HHStore and order on e of the "Red Books". It has a lot of VIN information. Also check the website "MyMopar.com. They have a lot of downloads for free that give most of the codes.
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| Question From:
Kathi
2007-11-26
| Question:
My son bought a 1970 Road Runner and was told the fender tag was there. Whether he was lied to or shippers took or lost it, who knows. Is there any other places there could be a tag? Without the tag and build sheet we are lost. Is the value now gone without the tag? Any help would be appreciated.
Response(s)
Kathi,I have a 70 RR without a fender tag.I found my build sheet tucked up under the glove box insert.I heared them being found under seats(in the springs)headliners,trunk areas,and anyplace they could stick them.Hope this helps and good luck. Rick
Thank you very much Rick. The shippers took the back seat out, so if it was there, they found it. I will check the glove box area and pray. I really would like that information that is on it, and have no other clue as how else to obtain. Again, thank you for your help. Good luck to you as well.
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| Question From:
Matt
2007-11-19
| Question:
I am in the process of restoring a 1968 Road Runner, and I am in need of a good wiring harness. I am thinking of going Painless. But, if anyone has been in this position and found a good harness, throw me an e-mail. I appreciate it a lot!
Response(s)
Matt, Check with companies such as Year One or other restoration parts houses. They all have new harnesses. I restored my 68 Runner with Y1 harnesses, they fit great and worked perfectly. Not cheap, but good stuff.
I could not disagree more, I thought year one was complete junk, didn't fit,bent tabs, no tech help or instructions provided.
3 weeks ago i put a bran new dash wiring harness from year one for my 1968 roadrunner and i was done in less than a half hour. It was idiot proff. I also baught the engine,tailights and headlight harness and put all 3 in within an hour. If you order it make sure you specifi on wether you have an oil gauge or light, i had a light and twice they sent me the wrong 1 with the set up for the gauge and it wasent even close to fitting right. In the past 6 months ive ordered about $3000.00 worth of stuff from yearone and only 2 parts ive had problems with. The spedo cable doesent clip in right and the quarterpannel extention gaskets dont fit. So i highlu reccomend YEARONE.
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| Question From:
Matt
2007-11-19
| Question:
Hey I was wondering if anyone knows of a good fitting car cover for a 68 runner. I'm in the process of restoring the car and winters coming around. I want to keep all the elements off of the car I can.
Response(s)
just go to menards they have all kinds of them for sale just read the back of the box it tells you want they fit thats where i got mine for my 72 runner
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| Question From:
kimberly
2007-11-18
| Question:
I have a 71 Satelite I want it to look like the Daisey Duke car color, and all.
Response(s)
go for it her car was a road runner are you going to convert your satellite it will be fun
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| Question From:
53elbear
2007-11-16
| Question:
I have a 69 Sport Satellite with the 335 HP engine I am restoring. I am looking for a 2.5 daul exhaust sytem for it that does not weld on. Has anyone found a supplier for what I am looking for?
Response(s)
Check out tti: http://www.ttiexhaust.com/ They have a mandrel bent system that is just what you are looking for. My car has their headers and exhaust system and it all bolts up just as nice as you please. They also make exhaust systems for cars with stock manifolds. They aren't the cheapest but you can't beat the quality.
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| Question From:
Barry
2007-11-14
| Question:
Hello Mopar people. I have a 1968 Road Runner I have just restored. All went well until we tried the lights. The right front turn signal didn't work. We found out it was very, very corroded and filled with rust. It is totally shot. Does anyone out there have one? I am also in need of the chrome piece that covers the door post, mine is a coupe. email me at : praz_2_him@hotmail.com, Thanks, It's Mopar or Nocar
Response(s)
Barry, I have seen a number of these on Ebay and other Mopar websites. I too have just completed a total restoration on my 68 RR Hardtop. One thing that was in very poor shape on mine was the light housings and sockets along with the actual wire harnesses. I replaced the light and engine harnesses (plus others) and rebuilt all the lights. It was a lot of work but the end results were worth it. Everything works great and all burn at the same intensity level. Good Luck.
I got mine for my 69 roadrunner from Stephens Performance...they were a bit pricy but they were very very nice
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| Question From:
JJ
2007-11-14
| Question:
Hurst Shifter Mechanism 70 Road Runner. I can't find the part number in any of my books. EBay has one listed as part #2996457 with reverse lever #7174, with push in bayonet. Also shift handle 2996462 which is correct? Is the mechanism correct for 70 RR? Any help would be appreciated.
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Gavin
2007-11-13
| Question:
Hey I am restoring a 1973 RR where would be a good start to find sheet metal and other parts...the usual guys (ie paddock, year One...etc) don't have virtually anything for a 73. Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
Response(s)
Give Auto Metal Direct a try...They are a new company specializing mopar body panels and I have heard a lot of good things about them..They are located in georgia
Hey Gavin, Go to www.autobodyspecialt.com they are the only ones I found that have quarters coming soon as well as other great parts. I have a 74 and they have helped out a bunch.
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| Question From:
Zee
2007-11-12
| Question:
I'm looking to verify the VIN to the body and engine for the 70 Road Runner I have bought. I can't locate any numbers on the firewall or any panel. Are there any other stamped VIN on the body?
Response(s)
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| Question From:
emiliio
2007-11-11
| Question:
I have a 72 Road Runner that is supposed to be a 340 4spd car, the previous owner was racing it with an auto trans and I believe a 440 (I've never spoke to owner, it's a long story} I need to know if the driveshaft and trans bracket will work with the A833 trans and what do you think the auto trans is worth? I believe it is a 727.
Response(s)
Emiliio, the 340/4sp will bolt right in if nothing has been changed from the factory parts. Drive line, trans bracket are all the same. Your 727 is worth about $150 for a core. Most guys wont buy one without a rebuild in mind. But you might get more.
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| Question From:
david
2007-11-04
| Question:
hello turning my 72 Sat into Road Runner clone who makes the front chin spoilers? Thanks
Response(s)
hey good luck with the project finding reproduction parts for 71 72 road runner satellite is hard there isnt a whole lot of parts they reproduce you would be better finding original parts on the iternet i had to with my 72 runner
David, The best place to get the chin spoilers is through Firstplace automotive. They make exact Chrysler authorized reproductions or the chin and rear deck spoilers. They sometimes have auction on Ebay but the prices are the same as their website.
Year One has them. I believe in both fiberglass or original plastic. Lyle
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| Question From:
DB
2007-10-29
| Question:
OK, here we go, I bought a 71 runner with a 67 motor and trans. The adjustable linkage for the transmission was gone, a solid peace in place of it, I ordered the original adjustible linkage. The solid peace in the car now is 8 inches long. The one sent to me is 6 1/2 inches long. From center to center of the mounting points. Does anyone know the true length of the linkage from the steering column to the cross over linkage, and the one from the cross-over to the transmission center to center of the mounting points? I can not get the car into drive one, it will not operate the neutal saftey switch properly, and no back up lights
everything else checked out. THANKS
Response(s)
At this point seeing you are having all this problems, you might want to check with your nearest chrysler dealer, to see if they can give you a copy of the service page of the parts in question. Or maybe an auto transmission shop.
I think I got it figure out. The guy I bought the car from put in a 67 tranmission. The adjustable linkage is almost 8 inches long for this. the 71 linkage is about 6 inches long. That explains the solid linkage in this place. Now all the adjusting has to take place.
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| Question From:
Vincent Capano
2007-10-28
| Question:
Hello, I have a 72 Road Runner. When I purchaced the vehicle, the rear bumper was off. I now want to put it on but can not figure out if there are any brackets that bolt onto the interior or exterior of the car. I have the large brackets that bolt on to the bumper itself around the light assemblies. Please let me know what I need in order to mount it on my car and where I can find it. Thank you.
Response(s)
they should bolt to either the back side of the car (outside) or the brackets attach to the sides of the frame. My 70 Road Runner brackets have 4 large bolts (2 on each side)that screw on into the back frame below the tail panel.
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| Question From:
mark bertram
2007-10-28
| Question:
Sir, I have a 67 Dodge Charger. All # match. 383 4 barrel. After rebuild, starts, run great. cooling problem, original radiator, recored, flows 23 gal per min. HD 8 bladed water pump. Mopar thermostat 180 deg. no air, stock 4 blade fan was removed & 5 blade non-therm installed, plenty of air flow. All works good untill it's hot & in traffic even in nuteral will slowly rise & while I don't let it get to hot, go back to highway it will go down but very slowly. Motor has 10 to 1, Comp cam with 454 lift on intake & exhaust. Makes 400 hp. Will running the wrong plugs cause this (Champion 14Y)? I am running an 8 bladed pump. Am I running the wrong water pump, am I flowing to much water thus not cooling properly? Should I be looking for a cross flow alum rad % electric fan? When it's cool out 70 or below everything is good, when it's in the 50's it doesn't seem to get & stay warm enough. Yes, I have been thru 3 therostats, all work the same. Factory specs say 121/2 degrees in timing, I've been there, curently running at 81/2 btc. The motor has about 1500 miles on it with no other problems. Thank you for any info you have on this....Mark
Response(s)
I'm not familiar with the 67 B body set up, but my 70 Road Runner has a 7 blade clutch fan, fan shroud, distance of fan from radiator is about 1 inch. Thermostat is a 160 degree, check the lower hose make sure there is a metal coil inside to prevent it from collapsing, unless you have the hard ribbed hose. My problem was after driving and stopping the coolent inside the upper tank would boil (you could hear it) my problem was a bad fan clutch....if I'm not mistaken the earlier cars had something like a 160-165 degree thermostat, not like the newer cars which have about a 190 thermostat.
I have a couple of suggestions. First, find you a fan shroud for your radiator width (ebay) and install. Make sure the fan is about 50/50 (front to rear)in the shroud. Make sure your 180 degree thermostat is opening at 180 degree. Heat some water on your stove with the thermostat and a thermometer in the water and when the thermometer gets to 180 degree look to see that the thermostat is beging to open. As the water gets hotter, the thermostat should open more. Make sure your temperature gauge is also correct. Check with the hot water in a similar manner.
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| Question From:
Johnny
2007-10-27
| Question:
Hello! Any information would be greatly appreciated (68 RR, 4 spd). With the vehicle out of gear coasting at speeds between 35 and 70, I have a very good vibration in the car (the higher the speed the worse). When the car is put back in gear, the vibration goes away (or at least I can't feel it).
Response(s)
I would start with having wheels balanced then check the u-joints ,drive shaft, trans mount, suspention bushings.
I would suspect the drive shaft or rear transmission bushing. Maybe even the rear transmission mount.
I had the same problem with my 68, it ended up being a rotten trans mount, costed about 40 bucks to solve the problem
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| Question From:
Dave Nic
2007-10-25
| Question:
I have a 1970 RR hard top that was butchered for a sunroof in the 80s. What year/make B-Body roofs will replace it? Is it best to just replace the skin and bracing (where cut) or go all the way to the factory cuts?
Response(s)
Any 68-70 hard top roof will fit. As for which is the best way to go in replacing it, if you can replace the skin and bracing it would be a good idea to go that way. If not, replace at the factory seams.
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| Question From:
Mike Dean
2007-10-20
| Question:
Hello, I have a 69 roadrunner hardtop 4-speed car that has no fender or dash tag. My uncle got this car in the mid 70's as a theft recovery from a junk yard. He is no longer alive and I've had the car in my garage for the last 11 years. It's never been titled and I received no paperwork with it. I believe it's a Hemi car. It has the welded in gussets in front of the leaf springs, dana 60, master cylinder relocating bracket, and coarse spline 4 speed. the radiator support ID numbers are gone or have been ground down at some point. It has no engine and the k-member is for a big block (not a Hemi) but they are bolt in. My uncle had told me that when he bought the car the drivetrain and the whole front end was gone but it was a hemi car. He lived a pretty unlawfull lifestyle so the car sat in his garage untouched for years. It does have the ID numbers on the trunk lip under the seal but this doesn't give me the first few that say what this car is. Is there anyway to verify what this car is and to possibly replace these tags. I've seen where you can get reproduction fender tags if you have the original (galen govier's site) but I have none. Thanks for any help you can give me.
Response(s)
I would try to check with your local police dept. To try to see if they have records going back that far, or where the car was reported stolen, and if you can get info regarding the vin# for your vehicle. The VIN# should be listed on the police report. PS...try to check with the junk yard if it's still around to see if they have records regarding the sale of your vehicle, they also should have the report number that car and maybe they have a copy of the bill of sale. If I were you I'd be kinda up set after doing all this work to find out the car is still listed as stolen and had not been recovered. Regarding the drive train, if you ordered the super trac pack, you would have those up grades. I had a 70 Challenger R/T single 4 barrel but the prior owner had ordered the super trac pack with his 440 magnum, I know it had 1 or 2 extra leaf springs per side, and the renforcement boxes. I have seen your options on 69 440+6 road runners. Good luck :o)
With all the number locations cut away it's really pointless if t was hemi a car or not you would need to reproduce all those areas and then explain why hoping the listener believes you. I agree with above to start with the police department of any area wher the car may have resided. If it's clear you can get titles froma few states. Georgia for example will title an older car after a VIN check, if you have proof of ownership i.e. bill of sale, bequeathment papers, etc. Does your K-member have the skid plate? Its a roughly triangular shaped piece of steel welded on the bottom of the K-member, right in the middle. It was intended to provide added protection to the larger oil pans that ame on the Hemi and 440+6 engines. It was only used on cars with one of those engines. Good luck
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| Question From:
Db
2007-10-17
| Question:
1971 RR column shift 727 automatic, it had the wrong linkage to start with. Now it won't start in park or neutral. New switch and wire check is this week end. Anyone have the wiring diagram for the neutral saftey switch? Can use any informaton about the is thing. Adjusting and electriccal also. Thank You
Response(s)
Starter relay? also make sure the shifter on the trans is in park if it is off by one click, it will be in reverse when when the indicator says P, and in drive when the indicator says neutral. As for the diagram, there was a person selling a wiring diagram on ebay. Or if you can locate a Chilton's Road Runner Satellite repair and tune up guide it covers 1968-1973 B body cars, engines sizes 225 - 440. I got one off ebay about 2 years ago, to repair my 70 RR. Regarding your question, I'm only guessing that your car does not trun over at all when you turn on the key. If the motor turns over and will not start you might want to check the ballest resistor, and also check the coil wires + & - make sure the nuts are tight, connections from the dist to the plug in connectors.
my mopar.com has wiring diagrams from 58 throught 74
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| Question From:
Sarah
2007-10-10
| Question:
I'm trying to find out the OEM routing of the ignition wires of the 440 Road Runner. I do not need to know the firing order sequence. It would be helpful to have a detailed picture of the original routing of the wires. Thanks, Sarah.
Response(s)
On my 70 Road Runner with a 383, the drivers side wires is first held on by a 4 spark plug holder that is bolted to the water outlet, then there is another holder located just below the valve cover. The wires are then attached to each spark plug. As for the passenger side 1 wire runs along the valve cover to the rear where it is attacted to a single holder and then attaches to the last spark plug. 3 spark plug wires run to the front of the block and there is another 3 spark plug wire holder below the valve cover that runs the remaining wires to the plugs. I have seen the wire holders on ebay and some mopar resto shops. My car uses the black rubber coated wire holders, and I have seen some with the hard plastic that is the block color...which one of these is correct for you car depends on what year you have....I have also seen the big blocks with wire holders on top the valve covers....You might want to find a friend who might have a resto book on your car to double check which holder is correct for your car.
look up your car on e-bay or autoduy.com. or other on loine sites look for engine pictures and compare
mymopar.com moparpages.com stockmopar.com one of these might have your answer, I just found my wireing diagram on my mopar they have wiring from 66 through 71
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| Question From:
D B
2007-10-08
| Question:
NEUTRAL SAFTEY SWITCH 71 Road Runner
Can anyone give me some insite as how to adjust the neutral saftey switch on a 71 RR 383,,727 trans? Starts in neutal with some shifter shaking, will not start in park. I have some minimal wear on the leakage, not enough to change any settings I don't think. THANK YOU
Response(s)
You need to adjust the swivel rod assembly, located under the car. Just loosen the screw and move it a little to the front or back until you get the correct setting to start the car in park. If I'm not mistaken all the rods under the console are fixed and cannot be adjusted. This applies to column and floor mounted shifters...The floor mounted shifter should have the swivel rod about center of the drivers floor and the column should be nearer to the drivers side frame. I hope this helps :o)
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| Question From:
Craig Duncan
2007-09-29
| Question:
How many 1969 Road Runners were produced in the color Rallye Green?
Response(s)
None. The greens available in 1969 were F3 Light Green Metallic, F5 Medium Green Metallic and F8 Dark Green Metallic.
Rallye Green was a special order color (#99) in the spring of 1969. It was available for 3 months or so. Not many made.
your rong man the factery didn,t make that coler but the car dealers did
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| Question From:
Glenn
2007-09-28
| Question:
I have just rebuilt my 68 Road Runner 383. I have problems maintaining a decent idle RPM before and after warmup and it is running very rich. I've checked for vacuum leaks with starting fluid around the carb and intake ...all seems to be O.K. During the rebuild I put in a 286* .474 lift purple shaft but I retained the stock headers and intake. I switched out the 600 CFM Edelbrock for a 750 Holley but it didn't help. The engine lopes at about 400 RPM ....just barely stays lit at stop lights. Any suggestions?
Response(s)
If your seeing black smoke out the exhaust that tells me something wrong with the carb. Needs to be tuned , also check the choke and make sure its opening after reaching operating temp.
I used this cam and found my engine had very little manifold vacuum,check your vacuum and make sure the powervalve in your holley is rated lower than the vacuum
check head gascit or mufiler may be clogid
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| Question From:
J. R. Wilson
2007-09-28
| Question:
I have found a 69 Road Runner with an A15 code. I've found this code is for a Spring Promotion but have found conflicting information on whether it included a vinyl top or not. There is also an A14 code and I've seen flip-flopped information on which package had the vinyl roof. Anyone have any clarifications?
Response(s)
look at mymopar.com moparpages.com stockmpoar.com can you give me infor on adjusting neutral saftey awitch on a 71 automatic
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| Question From:
David Thompson
2007-09-26
| Question:
I am looking for the Gaskets or seals for the Windshield and Rear window for a 73 Road Runner. I would like to find a place to call or on line and order. Thank you for any help that you can give me in this matter.
Response(s)
I would think a auto glass shop would have the caulking to place around both the front and rear windshield. I know when I had mine removed the glass shop installed the caulking before installing the front windshield. Your nearest auto parts store might have the caulking you need.
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| Question From:
ben davis
2007-09-23
| Question:
1969 440 Road Runner 4 speed 9.5 compression 443 int 465exh. .050 dur 214 int 224 exh. lobe ctrs 107 int exh.117 action plus intake manifold carter afb carburetor 750 cfm msd distributor initial timing 18 degrees bftc centrifical 18 degrees total 36 all in by 2200 rpm. The problem I am having is bogging when dumping the clutch at 3/4 throttle going to 3rd gear. If I ease the gas peddle down to 3/4 throttle it will squeal the tires but if do it quickly it boggs. Could this be carb problem? With the secondaries not opening too late or too soon or maybe carb is too small? I played with timing did not make a difference.
Response(s)
sounds like a lean spot , you might want to try rejetting the carb.
and try some stronger primary needle springs
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| Question From:
Don Gallagher
2007-09-21
| Question:
I'm in the process of restoring a 68 Sport Satellite, does any one know where I can get the rear emblem "Sport Satellite"? Thank you!!
Response(s)
You might want to check ebay. I had to go to ebay to restore my 70 Road Runner, and it took about 7 to 8 months to collect almost all the hard to find items. From plastic clips, fasteners to repo brake lines, and various interior parts and emblems. You can also try Year One, Paddocks, Jacks Auto parts, Jims auto parts (Texas acres) they sell used mopar parts or some of the mopar magazines which have advertizments...I hope this helps you :o)
There is an ebay store called firestone collectibles...they have a lot of these hard to find emblems...hope this helps
TRY JEFF 1-319-352-2511 I HAVE GOTTEN PARTS FROM HIM ,,ALL SO FAR IN GOOD SHAPE,,,OUT OF WAVERLY ,IOWA
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| Question From:
Mike Mickelson
2007-09-21
| Question:
Hi. Are the shift rods & levers on a 68 hurst shifter and a 70 long levered pistal grip shifter the same? Or, will they interchange? Thanks
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Tony
2007-09-21
| Question:
Hopefully somone can help me. I've got a '71 RR with an Air Grabber hood. When I turn the switch to the "open" position the door does not open. What I have to do is manually open the door, then it will stay open. I believe it's hooked up correctly because if I'm driving with the door open, and move the switch to the "closed" position, the door will close. If I move the switch back to the "open" position before the door closes, the the door returns to the open position. If the door comes to rest in the closed position, I have to open it manually again. I removed the spring that assists in closing the door thinking that this was overpowering the vacuum signal, this hasn't helped.
Thanks in advance.
Response(s)
Have you checked on how much vaccum your car is making? Are you connecting the vaccum line to the rear of the intake manifold, there is a fitting that usually connects the power brake booster, and another small nipple for the air grabber vaccum hose. I had almost the same problem, for some reason if I connected the vaccum can to the air grabber hose my air grabber would not open. But if I capped off the large nipple on the vaccum can, the air grabber would open and close...I checked the vaccum can under pressure, and placed it under water and could not find a leak. My lines have a green line, another has a yellow line and the 3rd has a white line. I suggest you put the spring back on, when you hit about 60 to 65 mph the air grabber door will open because of the under hood air pressure, or you will see it slowly rise as you increase speed and close as you slow down. My RR holds a steady 24# on the vaccum gauge, I know if you go to a bigger cam, you will loose vaccum, which affects the power brakes and other vaccum accessorys. I hope this helps :o)
Thanks for the response. I've got to get under the hood again this weekend. My car has manual drums, so there is a single port, on tha rear of the intake manifold, that I am drawing vacuum from. I have changed the cam, but it is a 284*/.484 lift Purple Shaft. I would think that I would be provided with enough vacuum still. BTW, the hood was not on the car prior to cam swap. I have not chacked the vacuum with a guage, I wouldn't even know what is required to get it to open. I will put the return spring back on when I get this ironed out, I don't want to make it any tougher right now. Perhaps I'll romove the can, and try and preasure test it, and maybe use another vacuum source. My repro lines have the same color combos as yours. There is probably another source at the base of the carb. Thanks alot for the suggestions.
Thanks for the info on the vacuum signal at the carb base as opposed to the manifold. I'll get under the hood this w/e and try a few things. Thanks again.
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| Question From:
Greg
2007-09-17
| Question:
I was removing my u-joints recently and took the rear ones out first, no problem. Then I got to the front u-joints, removed the semi-circle clips and just couldt't figure out how these come out. Do they have to be pressed out or what. Any help is appreciated, thank you.
Response(s)
I have always sent mine out to have it pressed in and out. A friend told me you can use a brass punch to remove and install the end caps, how safe is that I'm not sure, and I haven't tried it.
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| Question From:
robert mack
2007-09-16
| Question:
Can anyone tell me which gear shift knob came standard on the 69 Road Runner with a/t on the console? Was it the wood look or the chrome? Thank you
Response(s)
it depends on when your car was made, earlier versions had the chrome, and the later models had the woodgrain. It switches over to the woodgrain if your car was made after Nov. 68
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| Question From:
M Osborne
2007-09-16
| Question:
I have put a 318 motor in a 72 RR, but everytime I start it up, the brake pedal will go to the floor. When I cut the motor off the pedal comes back up. I think I have the hoses hooked up correctly, but do not realy know. Can anyone tell me why it is doing this?
Response(s)
SOUNDS LIKE A LEAK IN YOUR POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
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| Question From:
john
2007-09-13
| Question:
Does the front grille of a 69 Road Runner fit on a 68?
Response(s)
hi john; when I bought my 68 runner it had a 69 grill in it. and it fit fine
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| Question From:
Bryan Thompson
2007-09-13
| Question:
What is the difference between the 1968 ignition switch and 1969 igintion switch? Why can't you use the '68 switch in a '69? And why are the '69's so hard to find!!!
Response(s)
Bryan - the difference between the two are the diamiter of the housing itself. The 69 is larger and will not fit in a 68 mounting hole. The 69 is difficult to find because it is a one year only part as in 1970 everything went into the column
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| Question From:
Sean McKay
2007-09-12
| Question:
Hello, I have a 1970 Road Runner and found the alternator wire at bulkhead disconnected due to a poor connection and age. It needs replacement. If the connection from the alternator to the terminal cover got blown, where should I go? Anyone know anyone in SF? Thanks.
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Jeremy Avery
2007-09-12
| Question:
I am planning on painting my a 74 Roadrunner gloss black. I am searching for yellow decals and cannot seem to find any. Does anyone know if yellow decals are sold or will I have to get them custom painted on?
Response(s)
try www.phoenixgraphix.com or 800-941-4550
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| Question From:
Vic Hufnagel
2007-09-12
| Question:
I have a 1968 Road Runner and would like to black out the hood between the scoops, like the factory did back in 68. Does any one out there know the lay-out plan, or wear I can find it? Thank you for your help. Vic
Response(s)
I measured mine, draw a line straight across the back of the scoops, from the middle of that line where the hood peaks, measure 29 3/4 inches down, now from that mark conect the front of the scoops. so the back line is straigt across, and the front line peaks a little bit hope this helps
also that black paint is a special paint that has a texture to it, I think you can get it at year one, at the time i painted my car in imron, that paint was lacquar! so I ran into a paint compatability problem JUST A HEADS UP
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| Question From:
tyler fejfar
2007-09-10
| Question:
I am restoring a 1974 Plymouth Road Runner that has a factory sunroof in it. Does anyone now where to find parts for it? It is a manual sunroof. Does anyone now how many came with this option? Thanks
Response(s)
with your car that makes 4 that i have found. 2 small blocks, 1 big block, and whatever your car has in it. mine wouldnt work then i cleaned and greased the screws and it works fine now. where to get parts is a good question. i have found slim pickings.
I dont know about sunroof production in 1974 but only 414 1973 sunroof RR's were produced. Only 9656 1974 RR's were produced compared to just under 18,000 in 1973, so it must be very rare.
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| Question From:
Ryan Strocel
2007-09-10
| Question:
I have recently purchased a 1968 Coronet R/T in need of a lot of tlc and a complete restoration. Where can I find factory paint and trim combinations that were available for this car? Thank you.
Response(s)
your paint can be purchased from almost any auto parts store the code are on mymopar.com, stockmopar.com, ormoparpages.com, take the code to a parts store there is tons of information on these sites including wiring diagrams
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| Question From:
scott johnson
2007-09-10
| Question:
Is there any other place for the VIN number to be besides inside the drivers door on a 1968 Road Runner?
Response(s)
yes radiator support and trunk drip channels that i know of
It's also located under the package tray cover, near one of the speaker openings. There are several other locations as well, but those are the only one's I am sure of
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| Question From:
Vic Hufnagel
2007-09-10
| Question:
I am finishing the restoration on our 1968 Road Runner. Where can I find, or can someone tell me the lay-out plan or dimensions for the hood black-out patch? Thank you.
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Your Friend Ben
2007-09-08
| Question:
Two questions. #1- I have a 1971 Plymouth GTX that should have a "Longitudal Stripe". What is it and where on the car is it located? #2- What is the function of a rally dash liniter?
Response(s)
The Longitudal Stripe is the pin stripe that runs from the front of the car down the side to the rear just about 1 inch above the brake line or ridge on the body panels.
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| Question From:
ed
2007-09-08
| Question:
Does anyone know what the material is that seperates the hood skin from the support frame underneath, looks like some kind of putty or blobs of silicone?
Response(s)
My understanding it is a glue. It holds the skin to the frame, and also acts as a spacer. Good question on what type of material.
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| Question From:
M Osborne
2007-09-08
| Question:
I have installed motor in my 1972 Road Runner and another wiring harness for a 318 motor, because I bought the body w/o motor. The motor turns over but I cannot get any fire to the plugs. Does anyone know what I can try? I have checked all connections, they seem to be tight. Is ther any where I can get a diagram on the engine wiring harness, to see if I have hooked them up correct?
Response(s)
Check the ECU if its electronic ign.Go to the library for a diagram.Its free
www.classiccarwiring.com Has a nice colored wiring diagram thats laminated and very reasonable .
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| Question From:
Robin
2007-09-08
| Question:
I have a 1976 Volare Road Runner with a 318. All of a sudden it won't start. It has to be a loose wire. Everything has been replaced. Does anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram?
Response(s)
Go to the library.Its free.You can also go to ClassicWiring.com and get a colored,laminated diagram for about $16.00. Good luck
One item that is a common problem is the pickup coil in the distributor. If you have an ohm meter, unplug the two wire connector at the distributor and check for about 500 ohns of resistance across the distributor leads. If you read an open, the coil is bad. Replace and set the clearance between the reluctor and pickup coil with a brass feeler gage to factory specs.
I had a 76 Aspen R/T at one time and exactly the same thing happened. It was the ballast resistor, the little 4 inch long 3/4 inch wide thing on the firewall. Mine was encapsulated so you could not see the coil wire was bad. Replace it for under $10 and see if that fixes your problem.
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| Question From:
Pat Iurilli
2007-09-07
| Question:
I have a question about a build sheet for my 1967 Plymouth GTX, which has a VIN number of RS23L77150372. I am looking to get an original build sheet for it. I found two build sheets under the carpet in the car, but neither is for my car.
One is for a 1967 Satellite 2 door hardtop with VIN number RP23F77154502, (318 auto). The other is for a 1967 Dodge Coronet 4 door sedan, with VIN number
WL41D77154330, (273 auto) I would like to trade either or both of them for the correct build sheet for my car. Is there any chance of finding one for my car? I am told that it is not that uncommon for the wrong build sheets to be put in a car when they were built. Can anyone suggest where I might be able to accomplish such a trade? If not, does anyone know where I can get a build sheet for my car, other than by having Galen Govier make one up? Thanks very much in advance for any information that you can give to me.
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Pat Iurilli
2007-09-07
| Question:
I have a question about my 1978 Road Runner. Does anyone know if the rear quarter panels are available, and if so, from where? Also, does anyone know from where the exterior side stripes and decals can be obtained? Lastly, does anyone know the production figures for this car? Many thanks in advance for your help.
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Pat Iurilli
2007-09-07
| Question:
I have a question about decoding the fender tag on my 1967 Plymouth GTX. The interior trim code is P6W, so can anyone tell me what the "P" stands for? I know that codes that start with a "S" denote a sport interior, and the "6" denotes premium grade vinyl on the bucket seats, and the "W" denotes a white color, but what does a "P" prefix denote? Also, a friend of mine has an interior trim code
of H4X on his 1966 Plymouth Belvedere, so if anyone can decode that for me as well, and tell me what the "H" and "4" mean, we would be greatly appreciative. (I know the the "X" suffix denotes a black color.) Also, if anyone can point me to a good Mopar fender tag decoding web site, that would also be great.
Response(s)
Decoders & info http://www.mymopar.com/tools.htm
You had the answer. P6W is P - Premium, 6 - Vinyl and W - White. H4X is H - High Back, 4 - Vinyl split bench with armrest, X - White and black
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| Question From:
Pat Iurilli
2007-09-07
| Question:
I have a question about hooking up a 1966 console tach with an external sending unit in a 1967 Plymouth GTX. I was told that there were two different types of tachs with the same face, the one with the external sending unit was for a 1966,
and the one with an internal sending unit was for a 1967, so if I had known that before I had bought it, I would not have bought that one, but that is water under the bridge now, so now that I have the 1966 type tach, I would like installation, mounting, and wiring instructions for how to hook up the 1966 type tach in my 1967 GTX. This is a console mounted tach, and I have a console and automatic floor shifter in the car. Any help that you can provide to me would be greatly appreciated.
Response(s)
This also for the Chargers. Your gonna need a 66 factory electical diagram, wiring ( best is from a donar car ) and the remote sending unit can. there are replacement sending units out there- one that comes to mind is from Greg. go here! http://rt-eng.com/mediawiki/index.php/RTE_64-66_Tach_kit
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| Question From:
Danielle
2007-09-05
| Question:
Do all 1969 Road Runner's have front seats with headrests? Or, were some made without headrests?
Response(s)
According to Galen Govier's documentation of my car, headrests came standard after Jan. 1, 1969
The early birds of 69 had headrests as an option. The law mandated that anything manufactured Jan 1 69 and beyond had to have them.
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| Question From:
53elbear
2007-09-04
| Question:
I have a 69 Sport Satellite with a 383/335HP with numbers matching the Vin number that I am restoring. I need to raise the front end about an inch to get the height I want for looks. How can this be done?
Response(s)
if you look at the bottom of the lower control arms you will notice a hex bolt. Tightening this bolt (actually an adjusting stud) will raise the car. A shop manual will give you the factory recommended ride height measurements but you can raise it up from there if you like. Be aware that any adjustments made will alter the front end geometry and require a new alignment be performed as well.
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| Question From:
Don Gallagher
2007-09-04
| Question:
I have a 68 Sport Satellite on the trunk bezel it is missing the emblem can any body tell me what emblem is supposed to be there? Thanks
Response(s)
sport satellite on right hand side thats what i have it is original
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| Question From:
Brad Burmaster
2007-09-03
| Question:
I am hoping you can tell me where I could find the following: I have a drivers side trim piece at the very end of the post coupe missing. Any idea if I can buy just it or do I need to buy all the pieces? Where can I get this? I also have a small 1/4" hole in both doors, what is this for? and do they make a plug or something for it? Lastly, I have a buddy seat that is not installed in the car, any idea where I can get the mounting hardware, etc for it? I appreciate all of your help. Brad
Response(s)
TRY AUTO BODY SPECIALTIES NUMBER 888-277-1960, AS FAR AS THE HOLES WHAT YEAR AND BODY STYLE CAR DO YOU HAVE.
1970 Plymouth Roadrunner Post Coupe
If the holes are at the top og the doors by the vent windows they are the mounting holes for the mirrors. It took a single stud from the mirror mount with a nut on the on the inside of the to hold it in place.
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| Question From:
Brad Burmaster
2007-08-30
| Question:
I recently purchased a 70 Road Runner with an Air Grabber. The AG is not in place and I am searching directions/guide any type of literature that would tell me the parts that are required and how to install.
Any ideas are appreciated.
Brad
Response(s)
Brad, there is a B body resto book out, I don't know if it lists the parts that are required. Might want to check with Wilson Productions, they have a lot of parts for the airgrabber. Parts needed for the airgrabber, air grabber door, 2 pins, 2 C-clips, 2-double hinges (open and close air grabber, right and left side) 1-flapper door and rod, 2-roll pins, 2-end cap covers, 1-actuator bracket, 1 actuator, 1-assit spring for actuator, (1 small carter pin, 1 washer) to fasten actuator to flapper door rod. 1 underhood air box with is 2 pieces, 1 air cleaner seal. Also there is 2 small seals under the airgrabber about 6 inches long left and right side, air grabber vaccum hose, each hose has a diff color, green, yellow, white..and also, the vaccum can that mounts on the passenger side of the firewall. And make sure you have the correct vaccum fitting, mounts to the rear of the intake manifold, 1 small nipple for non power brkae cars, 1 small nipple + 1 large nipple for power brake cars..the small nipples vary depending on the what kind of vaccum operated parts you have on the car...
OK, I found the book "Charger, Road Runner & Super Bee Restoration Guide" by Motorbooks. I think this site might have this book.
Winged Warriors has a web site that has a diagram of the air grabber flapper seals and how to trim them to fit. Anybody know where to get the spin nuts that hold the box to the hood and the screws that mount the flapper(lid) to the box
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| Question From:
Jim
2007-08-30
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Are there any differences between a 68 (Satelite/RR/GTX) Quarter panel and the 69 Quarters panels other than the marker lights? Thanks
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| Question From:
Brad Dutcher
2007-08-29
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I just purchased a 68 GTX conv. It has new quarters on it and the previous owner did not put the GTX emblems back on the quarter panels. Does anyone have specs where to drill the holes? Also, side stripe placement? Help! Thanks
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| Question From:
Joe Trapanese
2007-08-28
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I am currently restoring a 72 Road Runner and I am having touble figuring out the 72 option only grill assembly with honey comb back. I have tried to research how to assemble it step by step with no luck. Can you help me with this problem or refer me to a guide or parts manual. Thanks Joe
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| Question From:
MARVIN
2007-08-28
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What is the average cost of a frame off restoration for a 1972 Plymouth Road Runner?
Thanks
Response(s)
Every car is different depending on condition but the 71-72 cars may be more expensive to restore based on the fact that there are fewer parts available for them as compared to the 68-70's. There is no way to say what is an "average cost" for a resto becasue you never know what you are getting into until you yank it all apart and see if there are any hidden problems.
I've been restoring my 72 roadrunner for 5 yrs.I had to redo the whole rear frame.I replace it with a sub frame with a 4 link rear end. But i had to replace the whole floor.Which you can get from, The Paddock.Just to make short it is very expensive,I have spend close to $28,000.00.and i am not done yet still need to find a passenger front fender.it's not cheap to restore this 72 roadrunners.any questions email me.
please do not say frame off when talking about mopars.Because there is really no such thing they are unibodys body the body and frame are one .if you go to a body shop and say that the price will double
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| Question From:
Rick Shields
2007-08-25
| Question:
Anybody know of any kind of picture guide or drawings, showing the correct location and angle of Road Runner decals on a base model 1970?
Response(s)
You might want to try "Charger, Road Runner & Super Bee Restoration Guide" by Motorbooks..I had to use that book to restore my 70 RR..I'm pretty sure it did not give the decals exact locations, just pics of the cars with the decals..For the exact locations I think your going to need a plymouth parts book, about 12 years ago there was a mag out called Chrysler Power Mag, I saw a few tech sheets in the back showing the locations and placement of the decals for various mopars. Guessing that you said base model, 1 bird on the drivers inside door, 1 running bird on both front fenders. As for the rear trunk, I've only seen 70 RR with the stripe and the bird on the passenger rear housing ext., but a friend told me that a few 70 RR came with only the standing bird, and no trunk stripe.....If your going to put the dust trail on the sides, you might want to get help, I did mine and it was something trying to get it straight...of course my was a back yard resto, that I did myself....hope this helps :o)
Rick: Contact mopar graphics.com I believe that is the right e-mail address. If not contact me and I will research it further. Denny
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| Question From:
Ron
2007-08-24
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I have an 73 Road Runner 318 Holley and the electric choke seems dead...
Anyone know how to trouble shoot one of these things? It has external diodes and such... STOCK I believe...
Response(s)
I have had my 73 318 for 26 years. It came stock with a Carter 2 bbl not a Holley. I put a Holley on it once but I have found that Stock is always best.
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| Question From:
Garry G
2007-08-24
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Could anyone tell me how many 1969 post cars were made and in comparison, how many hardtops were made that year? Thanks
Garry G
Response(s)
2 dr coupe 8 cyl 32717 2 dr hardtop 8 cyl 47365 convertible 8 cyl 2027 total 82109 source: Dodge & Plymouth muscle car red book,second edition Peter Sessler
Thanks for the information,i will try and download the web site for future reference,i appreciate your time for the reply.Thanks again,Garry G.
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| Question From:
Dennis Padget
2007-08-22
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Does any know where I can obtain sheet metal for a 1971 Road Runner such as quarter panels, front fenders, and front and read lower fascias?
Response(s)
auto body specialties was planning on making a two piece 1/4 starting this summer but i haven't checked on this. I have a 71 fender on my 72 but won't part with it till I can replace it. Real 1/4s are hard to find and expensive. Fenders can be found this site is full of info. Check with Tony's in DE. I believe thats the name of the place and he had fenders earlier this year.
11/3/7 called autobody specialties, coming in July a full o/e style quarter panel. Larson's will also be making a 3/4 repair panel
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| Question From:
frank trujillo
2007-08-21
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Hi, I have a 1970 Road Runner that doesn't start with the ignition. It will start when I use a screw driver to the starter, but on the switch I get nothing. Any clues? Thanks, Frank
Response(s)
Have you checked the starter relay? It should be on the firewall....the 1 large, and 1 small cable goes to the starter, and the third one goes to the relay on the firewall (this cable is about mid point on the positive cable....hope this helps. :o)
Agreed. Check the starter relay first, then if the relay is ok, check the ignition switch itself. Most likely it is the relay. Also check the fusible link wire which attaches to the large post on the relay. Make sure it is not burned or damaged.
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| Question From:
Tiffany
2007-08-20
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Bought a center grille 70 GTX, but has been altered on ends looks like a 70 Road Runner. Will GTX headlight bezels work this way?
Response(s)
I have a 70 Road Runner, the grill center and both ends have vertical lines as the design, and the "PLYMOUTH" logo is to the left side of the center grill. The GTX grill has a honeycomb design...and in the center of the center grill is where the GTX emblem goes. There is also a chrome trim that surrounds the center and headlight bezels, and a second set of chrome trim that screws to the fenders, hood, and below the center grill. the center grill on my road runner needs to be installed first, then both headlight bezels needs to be install, due to the tabs that fit over the center grill ends.
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| Question From:
Mike
2007-08-18
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I have a 68 Satellite and I want to add the "Go Wing" but I am not at all sure where the placement would be? Like how far forward from the trunk it goes and all that? Anyone hae a rough idea since this wing wasnt available for this car and I know its a custom deal but there has to be a "rule of thumb" distance? Thanks!!!
Response(s)
I'm not sure if the 68 trunk looks like the 70 trunk, but if you have the trunk mounting hardware, this bolts to the inside of the trunk to support the go wing. there is a metal plate with 2 screws and 2 holes for the go wing. Mount the inside hardware first, then drill the trunk from the inside out, then test fit the studs from the wing into the holes. If it fits then install the rubber gasket, tehn the wing and bolt it on. I was going to install a go wing on my 70 RR, but decided not to, my go wing with mounting hardware cost something like $425.00....Hope this helps :o)
Year One may have the dimensions you are looking for on their website or in their catalog. You can most likely use the 1970 mounting location as the 68-70 body style was basically the same with some cosmetic differences. You'll have to verify the underside the location diagram with of your trunk bracing but you should be able to figure it out. Good luck!
I only have one comment "why"?
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| Question From:
Carl Pletcher
2007-08-18
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Does anyone know a source for bucket seat mounting components for a 1971? I have the bucket seats which have seat to floor studs but no mounting components. I assume some type of bracket, spacer and nut is requried to mount to the floor.
Response(s)
The seats use 4 spacers about 3/4" thick and 1 1/2" in diameter. Then you put the seats in and mount with 4 nuts (the type with the washers mounted to them). Thats all you need no special brackets were used.
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| Question From:
Vic
2007-08-18
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Can somebody give me the layout dimensions for the 1969 Road Runner hood stripes?
Thank You.
Response(s)
Displayed directly on the Restoration Q&A page here at the RoadRunnerSite.com is an image, which links to a PDF of the dimensions. http://www.hhnascar.com/roadrunner/images/roadrunnerhoodstripes.pdf
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| Question From:
Greg
2007-08-17
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I bought a 1969 Road Runner with 15 inch wheels and tires on it. The speedometer seems to be reading 10 mph less than I'm really going. From reading the fender tag it's supposed to have the 3.91 axle ratio (A31 code) and the speedo pinion gear I took out is red w/36 teeth. Does anybody know what gear I should be using? (# of teeth and color) Thank you for your help.
Response(s)
year one can tell you what you need and sell it to you for about 15.00
I would double check, as to what I got in the 3rd member. Jack up the rear end (both tires) mark the tire and make 1 complete revolution, at the same time mark the driveshaft and see how many times it spins. If it goes almost 4 complete turns, I'd say you got 3.91 ...if it only goes 3 complete turns and about 1 inch more, I'd say you got about a 3.23, if it goes more, then 3.55 or 3.73....also tire height makes a difference.
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| Question From:
ED
2007-08-17
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Hi, I am in the process of selling my 1968 Hemi GTX with a numbers matching 426 engine. I know that this is an original survivor car with the correct engine. Yesterday someone asked me what was on the engine pad looking at it front right hand side. This car only has a "W" on it. The "W" is sideways ? Can anyone tell me what this means? This is a 2 owner survivor car that I am 99% sure it is correct. I know my other Hemi car had a different marking on that pad. Any information would be gratefully appreciated.
Many thanks, Ed
Response(s)
I am pretty sure it would mean it's a warranty block
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| Question From:
M Osborne
2007-08-16
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I have a 1972 Plymouth Satellite body, and I need a engine wiring diagram to hook up a new wiring harness w/electronic ignition.
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| Question From:
Gordon
2007-08-16
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Hi I have a 1973 Sebring, could you tell me if I can put 16" rims on it with 245/50s (rear end) and what would the typical stock transmistion it would have for an automatic? Thanks Much appreciated.
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| Question From:
Frank Duschek
2007-08-15
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I'm dealing with a 69 Plymouth Satellite -turned- Road Runner. I have numbers off of the body, and I'm not sure where to go to to see if the numbers on the body match. I think it has had a conversion done on the title, b/c it says that the car is a '69 Road Runner with a 170 cu in 6 banger. Please email me with any tips on where I could check these numbers out. Thanks
Response(s)
there is numbers on rad support 3 spots on frame rails and under rubber trunk seal Road runners only had 383 440 or hemis sport satilites 383 440 reg satilites had 6 cyl and 318 good luck
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| Question From:
Jimmy Hancock
2007-08-15
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I am looking for the dash voltage limiter for a 72 Road Runner anyone know where I can find one? Also looking for the hood louvers for my hood.
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| Question From:
Carl Pletcher
2007-08-12
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My son has a '71 Road Runner. Over a period of time my son and I have collected many of the components for an Air Grabber Hood. We just returned from the Mopar Nationals where we attempted to gather information on the Air Grabber Hood and the proper installation of it. We took a number of pictures; however, a gentleman at MCR told use an individual to communicate with is Don Hall at Air Grabber Restorations or Ramcharger Restorations. I have not been able to locate Mr. Hall or his company on goggle. Can anyone help me? In my search I did locate Wilson Productions. Any information that you can provide would greatly be appreciated.
Response(s)
I bought parts from that Wilson Productions, for my 70 road runner air grabber, and another person who had the actuator on ebay...Wilson has most of the hardware...the guy on ebay sells the underhood plastic box, and door, and actuator...Wilson gave me an insturction sheet, he carries flapper door, pins & c-clips, end cap covers, spring and he was out of the actuators when I called..and I think he also owns a air grabber type of car..
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| Question From:
Sharon Vannatta
2007-08-12
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I have a 1970 Plymouth Road Runner. Last night while driving, the key ignition switch went bad. It was lights out. How do I take off the steering column and replace this key ignition switch?
Response(s)
I would suggest obtaining a shop manual. There are many online sources for shop manuals on CD. Do a search online and you'll have no trouble finding one. Good luck on your repairs.
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| Question From:
DAVE
2007-08-11
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other than the overall weight and styling- of the cars- what is the difference between the 71 GTX model and the 71 Road Runner nameplate?
Response(s)
The main difference is if I remember right the GTX only came with a 440 or hemi no other engine options I could be wrong but thats what I remember
The GTX was a more upscale car and had finer interior appointments that would be options (adding additional cost) on the road runner. Also as stated, the GTX base engine was the 440-4bbl with the 426 Hemi optional. The GTX had a stiffer suspension (bigger torsion bars and heavier leaf springs) standard than the road runner did but again the road runner could get these parts as extra cost options.
One more thing I forgot to mention - the GTX also had an upgraded fuel delivery system which included a larger standard fuel line diameter (3/8" vs. the 383's 5/16") and a heavier duty fuel pump along with a larger rated cfm carburetor. There may have been upgrades in the electrical system as well but I'm not sure about this.
Simply put, the GTX has both the luxury and performance, the roadrunner is performance no luxury, and the satellite is luxury without much performance. I own a 71'curious yellow roadrunner and the origional owner ordered all the luxury and performance items possible but just didn't spend the extra nickel for the GTX logo. Comes with 383, 4 speed, sure grip posi, dictaphone recorder, A/C, manual brakes, power steering, bucket seats, console, rally dash, etc.
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| Question From:
darren
2007-08-11
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I have a 1972 Plymouth Satellite and we charged the A/C system yesterday we ended up with 225 on the high side and almost 30 on the low side is this too much, having trouble finding information on this matter.
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| Question From:
matt
2007-08-10
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On a 1968 Road Runner, is the upside down stamping on the radiator support suppose to be the same as the VIN? If not what is it used for?
Response(s)
Hey Matt that is correct , they should match and also there is one stamped in the drip rail of the trunk.
Galen Govier's 1966-1970 B body guide indicates that 1968 was the only year the numbers on the radiator support, drip rail of the trunk and VIN had no correlation, much to the dismay of modern collectors. The block and transmition #'s should match the VIN.
It depends on when the car was built, early 69's used 1968 motors which dont have the vin stamped on them, since the car was put together in 1968.
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| Question From:
Doug Olsen
2007-08-07
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I am building a 440. with the dist. in place I can move the oil pump drive gear up and down about 3/16 inch. Should I shim the gear? The dist is a Mallory Unilite.
Response(s)
Did you install the intermediate shaft bushing?
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| Question From:
Brian
2007-08-03
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Hey there guys. Got another question.
So I'm sitting here thinking to myself if I had a 383 or a 440 out of say a Satellite I believe it would just be a "standard" block. But out of a Road Runner or Charger it might have come with the HP2 designation. Block for block what was the real word practical difference? Was it not the block per say but the components it was built with to full engine status? If I wanted to do a fairly serious build (10 - 11 second) car. Should I make certain to start with an HP2 block or can a reliable motor be successfully built using the "standard", or non-HP2 Block found in Mom's grocery getter? For it seems much easier to come up with that than an HP2 block. Any thoughts on the subject I'm certain would be informative and interesting. Thanks
Response(s)
Go with what you got.My 70RR has a 440 out of a 73 4 door.Its bored 60 over,Hemi cam,906 heads(worked)and 2 650 holleys,with a cast iron 2x4 intake.On a nice summer day,I can get into the 12's.Do what you want to do.Its all good.
You can use any block you wish. Just be aware that after 1973 or so Chrysler started using thin wall casting techniques so if you have a 74 or later 440 be sure to have it ultrasonically for bore thickness. The newer blocks were more prone to core shift than the earlier blocks. The 383 block in my 69 road runner is a non-HP block. It has been bored .030 over and the internals have been beefed up. We estimate its output at about 435-450 hp at the flywheel. There is no difference materially between the HP and non-HP blocks. The only difference was which car it was intended to go in, thereby dictating what type pistons were to be used (high compression vs. low compression), which valvetrain (cam, lifters, springs) was to be used and which induction system was to be used (2 bbl vs. 4bbl/6bbl - in the case of the 440). You will probably find the non-HP engines cheaper to buy than the HP versions. Don't worry - there isn't any difference in the blocks.
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| Question From:
Brian
2007-08-03
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Hello,
I'm looking for a bit of help fine tuning my Road Runner.
I'll give you what I know and what I've done.
1971 Road Runner, 383 / 727
Motor is mostly stock rebuild (.030 over) from a few years ago.
Cam is a little more stout than stock.
727 rebuilt last year 10" 2800 converter, stage one shift kit.
Just swapped out the stock intake manifold for an aluminum Weiand
and the Holley Carburetor for a 750 Speed demon annular vacuum secondary with an auto choke set up.
The only issue I have is right off idle it stumbles a bit, almost stalling out but not quite. If I give the throttle a slight tap just a split second before I actually try to drive off it seems to be alright. Everything after that is a noticeable improvement. From a stand still if I stomp on the throttle the hesitation is not noticeable.
Does anybody have a correction solution they would like to offer me to get rid of the off idle stumble? You think the carburetor needs re-jetting? float levels changed? or maybe the timing needs and adjustment. Maybe its a mixture or accelerator pump problem. I'm hoping someone has had this exact issue and now knows the most likely solution so I won't have to systematically run through all those scenarios but either way any help is greatly appreciated.
Response(s)
I had a simular problem when i changed to a high rise dual plain aluminum intake.I think my problem was a combination of heat transfer from intake to carb resulting in fuel boiling out of the bowl to carb needing rejetting .
Jetting will do you no good for this problem. Jetting is a function of the power system. This is an idle/off idle circuit problem. There are a number of things to try. First, check to see which squirter you have in the carb. There are various size squirters. If you have one that is too small (diameter) you will not get enough gas into the carb. The squirters are the distribution point for the accelerator pump discharge. Second: Check to make sure your accel pump is adjusted properly. If so, you may need a larger pump or a different pump cam. The last thing to check is to make sure you have the proper air/fuel miture setting by adjusting the needle valves which control the lean/rich mixture setting. If you are too lean on your air/fuel mixture you will have problems such as this also. Good luck.
jetting will do you some good if you changed the cam i would highly recommend it!
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| Question From:
Sean
2007-08-02
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I have a 1969 Plymouth and wanted to put a brake booster on it. What years will work as far as getting this booster and what models? Thanks Sean
Response(s)
Be aware that if you go with a booster you will need a different pushrod for the master cylinder. Different master cylinder pushrods were used for power brake vs. non-power brake equipped cars.
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| Question From:
BOB SCHAEFER
2007-08-01
| Question:
How many 1969 Plymouth GTX where built with paint code T3.
Response(s)
These kinds of questions need to be directed to Galen Govier http://www.gvgovier.com/
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| Question From:
Yves
2007-07-31
| Question:
Looking for 1970 Road Runner placket don't know the real name for the part, on the back of the speedometer at the right small plate with copper rings that give power to interior light part 55561 or 2857161 thats what I have on the parts.
Need help ??
Response(s)
Hi, I have a 70 RR,but I'm not sure what you mean.My speedo does't have any kind of bracket with copper rings,and all my interior lites work.Can you give me any more info?Maybe I'm not sure what you mean. Let me know if you can. Rick
My 70 RR, has orange wires connected to sockets for bulbs, I think I have either 2 or 3, they light up the tic tac clock, and the speedometer. They just plug into the holes for ground. On the water temp, oil pressure, gas gauge and volt meter, there is the green panel, that you have the wireless bulbs, bulbs just plug into the black holders and twist lock into the back of the green panel, these have the copper rings that provide power to the bulbs. Sorry don't really know the name of the green borad...
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| Question From:
David Crane
2007-07-29
| Question:
Hi,
I am working on a 1971 Plymouth GTX. I have questions about the air grabber switch solenoid and the large GTX emblems that go on each quarter panel.
1)There is a green wire on my solenoid switch with no connector attached. It must have been cut off at some point. Can you tell me where this green wire goes? I should remember but its been years and I don't. It's very possible I'm blind but I can't find it on any wiring diagram in the main service or body service manuals.
2)Can you tell me how to locate the GTX emblems on the quarter panel? The mblems have the two pins but my panels do not for whatever reason. It is a numbers matching GTX so I'm guessing some previous owner filled the holes for some reason. I have looked online for the usual locating diagrahm without success. I know it's there I just can't find it!
Thanks, Dave
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| Question From:
mark
2007-07-29
| Question:
Can anyone tell if a 1969 Road Runner had 1 or 2 beep beep horns and if there were 2 are they the same horn I also would like to put the pen star back on the right front fender and the Road Runner emblem back on the trunk but holes for mounting them have been filled. So I also need the to know where to properly mount them so I can drill the hlos in the proper place. Thank you
Response(s)
My 70 Road Runner has only 1 purple horn. It is mounted on the passenger side of the inner fender near the front cowl. It has 2 holes, the top one is threaded and the 2nd one is smaller for a tab, it is mounted at a slight angle. As for the pentastar emblem my RR had 2 holes, If I remember correctly 1 was in the center, and a smaller hole to the left bottom...My pentastar had 2 tabs on the back to fit both holes. :o)
correction on my last reply..Sorry I double checked and the mounting location on my car in on the radiator support, 2 holes, one is threaded and the other is not, the none threaded hole is for the tab on the bottom end of the horn.
Just one purple beep beep horn in 69.
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| Question From:
Mark Mullins
2007-07-27
| Question:
I have a 1973 Plymouth Road Runner does anyone know where I can find the Plymouth emblem for the rear bumper approx 9" with three posts. Thanks in advance, Mark
Response(s)
mark try this go to www.mopartsracing.com look under restoration parts there is a plymouth name plate that has three post and is nine inches long and how i know this is because i bought one. this web site says it's for a 1968 hood but i have a new mopar performance catalog that anyone can get through their dodge dealership that says it's for the deck lid of a 1972 road runner so maybe it's the same as your old one , if you meant trunk lid when you said bumper .If you meant bumper then i do not know . good luck
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| Question From:
Tracy
2007-07-27
| Question:
Does anyone know how many 1969 Road Runner 4 spd hemi post cars came with bucket seats?
Response(s)
Ask Galen Govier http://www.gvgovier.com/
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| Question From:
Gary
2007-07-27
| Question:
Hi..just wanting to know how many 1973 Plymouth Road Runners were produced with a 340 engine/auto trans?
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| Question From:
tom8757
2007-07-25
| Question:
New Gas Tank Purchase
What is the best if I am restoring a Road Runner? Year One's tank has a coating that can be scratched off. I know because I have sent 3 back. I just found out that Goodmarks tanks are Galvanized inside and out. What is the best tank?
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| Question From:
tom8757
2007-07-25
| Question:
1969 Road Runner Hood Stripes
I need help!!!
I am painting black hood stripes on my 69 Road Runner. I need the correct measurements. I have an original 69 Plymouth brochure and the Roadrunner black stripes appear to not go as wide as the GTX black stripe.
In the brochure the Black stripe ends at the vertical stainless trim on the front windshield. The GTX appears to go all the way to the end of the cowl or at the gap between the cowl and door.
Please Help!
Tom
Response(s)
If you'll notice the picture at the upper right hand side of this page you'll see the stripe dimensions for the 1969 road runner and GTX. The striping dimensions are identical for both cars.
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| Question From:
Curt
2007-07-24
| Question:
I need to remove the oil cooler lines from the radiator of my 1969 Road Runner 383 auto. Everything is very tight, and I don't want to cause any damage by forcing something incorrectly. Just need the correct process. Thanks
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| Question From:
ed
2007-07-23
| Question:
Has anyone had the pleasure of changing the triangle shaped sway bar bushing on a 1968 Road Runner? I have tried every thing I can think of with no success. Any suggestions before they commit me!
Response(s)
Yes, I had to replace the same ones in my 69 road runner's sway bar. There are a number of things you can do from drilling holes in the rubber and cutting them out with an exacto knife to heating them up with a torch (it will stink!) and prying them out after you have melted them a bit. They do come out but as you have discovered - it isn't easy. Good luck.
I got the old ones out , i mean getting the new ones in . I think it's impossible !!!! ED
Get some silicone grease and apply it to the edges of the rubber/polygraphite insert. Then, using channel locks that have had the teeth on the jaws wrapped in electrical or duct tape, work them into position. It doesn't take all that long to do as the silicone grease helps pop then right into place.
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| Question From:
Tom
2007-07-21
| Question:
I have a 1969 Road Runner with rear pop out windows. I was wondering if anyone knows where I can get the plastic that goes between the window and front window edge? The plastic is falling apart and the window is loose in the front edge. Also who sells the weatherstrip for these pop out windows? Help!!!!
Response(s)
tom try www.p-s-t .com or 937-299-8019 product info.
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| Question From:
Johnny
2007-07-21
| Question:
"He's Dead, Jim"! My 70 Satellite acts like it doesn't have electrical power at all. I was cranking it up and while I had the ingnition cranked to start, it acted like it was going to start and then nothing. It's dead. The headlights won't even work. The strange thing is that I can put a screwdriver across my solenoid's positive and negative and turn the starter over, so I know my battery and starter are fine because of this. Has anyone seen this before? Thanks.
Response(s)
Found the problem before this was posted. There is a Red wire in the center plug of the wiring harness that was loose. The connector looks like it just needed to be tightened back down with a pair of pliers. The wire is on the cabin side of the harness and if you're looking at it from the front, it's located in the far upper right of the center plug. It's the one that feeds into the "fusable" purplish/gray wire that connects to the solenoid. Thanks.
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| Question From:
BROCK
2007-07-19
| Question:
How can you tell if your car has had the frame straightened or if it has had frame damage? I've noticed on my car that one of the holes in the frame just under the door has been pulled out like a hook has been tightened down too much, somebody said that it could have been done when straightening the frame, any truth to this?
Response(s)
This same type of damage can be done if the car was ever tied down to a transporter, too but it usually happens to the rear fram holes. This happened to mine when it was transported from Nevada to Florida. It is possible that this could have been done on a fram machine. If you can contact some of the previous owners you may find out why this has happened.
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| Question From:
Paul
2007-07-17
| Question:
I purchased a 1973 Roadrunner hood. I have been looking for the inserts for the scoops. Does anyone no where I could find the inserts or does anyone have a picture of the insert that I could use as a pattern to make one.
Thanks
Response(s)
Paul, I know that in the front of YearOnes B-Body restoration parts book they have pictures of the 73 hood stripe kits on actual hoods. I don't know if the detail is sufficant for what you need.
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| Question From:
James Hill
2007-07-15
| Question:
What temperature should a 440 (bored .30 over) run at? My gauges are shwoing 210-230 degrees. This is a 70 RR. It has an electric fan as well. Car is a 50K car, but sat for 2 years. Thermostat stuck?
Response(s)
James, Your engine should run in the 180-190 degree range if everything is working correctly. With that said, there are many things that affect the temperature. The engine must be reasonably clear of rust in the water jackets. You need a good water pump with belts properly adjusted. You should have a good fan, if thermostatic, is it operating correctly? What is the condition of the radiator? If the car has set for a couple of years, you may have a rust or blockage problem. Take it to a radiator shop, have it flushed and flow checked. If it is plugged up at all it probably will not handle the 440. The basic engine tune is also a factor, the timing, carburation (lean/rich)and fuel quality can affect engine temperature. Does your car have a fan shroud?, if not you may want to install one as they can help tremendously with heating problems. Be sure to have a good 180 degree thermostat installed. (never run and engine without a thermostat, it will actually make an engine heat more due to the flow through the radiator being to fast, no heat transfer) One final note, make sure your temperature gauge is correct. I am in the calibration business and have seen aftermarket temperature gauges be 20-40 degrees off. If it is a fully mechanical gauge, remove it from the car, boil some water, insert the temperature sensor in the water and see if the gauge reads about 212 degrees. If it reads, say, 220 degrees then you know your gauge is reading 8 degrees to high and you can take that into consideration when looking at your engine temp. Hope these ideas help. If everything is right, you probably will not need the electric fan.
doesnt hurt to have a fan shroud as well!
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| Question From:
george
2007-07-12
| Question:
I have a 71 Satellite 4-door sedan (custom) I am looking for a headliner 6 bow. Does anyone carry? All I can find is for 2-doors. Can you help?
Response(s)
Hey George if you go to legendary auto interiors they can give you what you need.
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| Question From:
JK
2007-07-11
| Question:
Does anybody know if there is a dress up trunk kit for a 1973 Road Runner? Thanks
Response(s)
Keep an eye on eBay. It seems to me I saw one last week but it must have sold.
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| Question From:
Mike
2007-07-10
| Question:
Hello,
I am considering purchasing a 1969 Road Runner. Is there an easy way to tell the difference between a Road Runner, Satellite, and Belvedere in 69 with no fender tag, or other documentation? The VIN is RM2***, but I have reason to believe it is fake. It has aftermarket door panels, aftermarket beep beep horn, and was repainted. Are there any logos, interior or exterior that I can spot? There appears to be holes on the inside door panel near the top, but no emblems. It is a nice car at a nice price, but I am skeptical. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Response(s)
There are a number of places the VIN is stamped into the sheet metal on the car. One is found on the radiator support bulkhead and two other places are in the drip channel for the trunk on each side of the car. You'll have to look closely to find them as they are only partial numbers. I'll have to post a pic or send you one. If you want I'll take pics to help you find the locations and email them to you. The proper VIN should start with either RM21H (coupe with post and flip out rear windows) or RM23H (hardtop w/roll down rear windows). Let me know if I can be of help.
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| Question From:
John
2007-07-09
| Question:
I have a 1970 Road Runner and have holes in upper door trim where a mirror adjustment (?) wand might be. Does anyone know where I can get black plugs for that door trim hole? Are they metal or plastic?
Thanks....John
Response(s)
Actualy those holes are how you access the bolt that holds the wing-vent window in place. A lot of times when you slam the door shut, and it sounds sloppy, it needs that alan head tightened up. I think Year One has those rubber plugs.
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| Question From:
Brian
2007-07-08
| Question:
1970 Plymouth Road Runner 440
Ok guys I need a new radiator for my 70 Road Runner and I was thinking about an Aluminum one. What are the pros and cons and where can i find a nice one?
Thanks Brian
Response(s)
I got mine from Mancini Racing...You will need to give them a call and they will ask for measurements...It will cool much better than the original rad...I saved my original rad
Brian, If you go with the aluminum radiator, be SURE to put antifreeze or a similar mixture when you FIRST fill the radiator. NEVER put plan water in an aluminum radiator. I have seen and read where you can loose about 30% oof the cooling advantage due to oxidation with plan H2O.
Thanks for the info Guys i will keep all that in mind when i do my swap
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| Question From:
Joe
2007-07-08
| Question:
I plan to install an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold on a 383 in a 1969 Road Runner with the stock, steel, non air grabber hood. Will I have adequate hood clearance due to the taller manifold height?
Response(s)
The stock air-cleaner will be to large a diameter, but on both of mine I just went with a smaller diameter one from kragen or pepboys(cheepo)and the hood closes fine.
I am running this setup on my 69 rr with a 1/8" fiber spacer to try and reduce heat in the carb. I am running a Holley 750 carb on it. When I used the Mopar Performance air cleaner assembly my wing nut that attaches the air cleaner was hitting the underside of the hood so I bought a chrome Jegs air cleaner assembly with a drop base and K&N style filter. Everything fits fine now.
As a note of interest, concerning the heat problem with the carb, if you are not concerned with cold start and idle problems in COLD weather until the engine warms up, Mancini Racing has the Felpro intake tubs WITHOUT the heat crossover opening. This blocks the heat from coming under the carb, it made a world of difference in my 68 383 Runner, both in hard starting when hot and a noticable performance increase.
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| Question From:
alg
2007-07-08
| Question:
Looking for a grill for a 79 volare (RR package)new or in excellent shape and full weather stripping kit, any ideas?
Response(s)
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| Question From:
BROCKY
2007-07-06
| Question:
I had such good luck with the stripe question I thought I'd try again!! Whenever I turn on my head lights my oil pressure and heat gauge peg out. Does not affect gas gauge. They both are running over to far before I turn on the head lights, but that makes it even worse!! I've checked heat, running around 190 to 210. Could this be the voltage regulator?
Response(s)
Sounds like you may have a problem with the voltage limiter on the back of your gauge cluster. It is a small retanglular metal can that plugs into your circuit board that feed all the gauges. It drops the 12 volts to around 5-6 volts for the gauges. If it is defective, it normally makes all your gauges (fuel, temp and maybe oil) read high. You can buy the limiter seveal places such as NAPA or any of the Mopar restoration parts houses.
THANK YOU, WILL GIVE IT A TRY!!! CHANGED THE VOLTAGE REG., NO HELP!!
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| Question From:
mrmopar
2007-07-05
| Question:
I have a 67 "383" that has been rebuilt and is suppose to have a six pack cam in it. Can anyone give me the specs of this cam and is it a purple cam. I am going to put the motor into my 69 Satellite along with the 727 trans.
Response(s)
The cam you are referring to is not a Purple Shaft cam. It has the same timing events as the GTX/road runner/Superbee/Coronet 400 HP cam. The difference between the six-pack cam and the stock HP cam is that the six-pack cam's lifters were a "low taper" design so that the Hemi valve springs (with their higher seat pressure) could be used so as to gain about 500 more rpm. The timing events were: Advertised duration: intake: 268 degrees exhaust: 284 degrees overlap: 46 degrees (the amount of crackshaft degrees of rotation that both valves are open) Valve lift: Intake: .450" Exhaust: .455"
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| Question From:
matt
2007-07-05
| Question:
I own a 1968 Road Runner, but noticed that the rear end I think is from a 74 something. The date casting number is 04 14 74. And 282 is stamped on is also. Can someone help me out here? I don't know what I have.
Response(s)
I'm not sure what kind of rear end a 74 came with , but my 70 Road Runner has a 489 number. (last 3 numbers) third member rear end and my 8 3/4 is not a 70 rear end. I found that out when I bought rear brake lines, the 70 did not fit. I have a earlier model rear housing...when I installed the lines I discovered that one side was to short and the other side was to long. So I needed to get a brake lines from a 68 and below, which fit perfect.
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| Question From:
ben
2007-07-05
| Question:
After all months of driving with vibrating driving me crazy. It turned out to the trans. mount. even though I installed a new one while I had all apart it lasted a bout 550 mile. I might have too much torque. Any way I got the new one on drives outstanding. 1969 Plymouth 440 Road Runner.
Response(s)
If you keep going through motor and trans mounts try going with polyurathane or steal mounts
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| Question From:
BROCKY
2007-07-03
| Question:
I am wanting to stripe the hood of my 1970 Road Runner. Is there any stencils or dimensions of how wide the center stripe is and the gap between the center and the 2 outside small stripes and also the width of the outside stripes? Thanks
Response(s)
Brocky, At the link below, which can also be obtained at the top of this page, is a PDF file including the hood stripe dimensions and locations. http://www.hhnascar.com/roadrunner/images/roadrunnerhoodstripes.pdf
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| Question From:
al
2007-07-03
| Question:
Could someone please give me the specs on a 6 pack cam. I have a 1967 383 which is 40 over and built pretty good. I plan on putting it in my 1969 Satellite and wonder if this cam or a new one would be better?
Response(s)
I don't have the specs handy but it is a great all purpose cam. The factory 67-69 440 cam is also good. All can be purchased from the Mopar dealer. I have tried a lot of cams, but for good idle, plenty of vacuum for the brakes, broad torque curve and a good mild lope at idle, the factory cam and lifter kits are hard to beat. Of course this is my opinion....
It's not a matter of the cam. It's a matter of setting up the 6pak. If you go any kind of wild your gonna have to get new metering blocks on the out board carbs that can take different jets. Factory only has drilled ports for jets. Then you have to match your power valve to the jets. I noticed in an above post that the guy was running rich and blowing black smoke on a 750. The power valve has to match the cam ( it never goes into the idle circuit and the carb keeps dumping fuel) power valve are important. It is all a matter of playing until you find the right combo. The classic signs of a 6 pak not set right for a cam is, black smoke, super rich and the # 1 and 8 plugs will be fouled real bad.(the way the runners are designed on the medium rise causes this). 6 paks are only a pain until you figure them out.
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| Question From:
Randall
2007-06-29
| Question:
I bought a 1970 Road Runner clone with a front drum to disc brake conversion. The brake booster, master cylinder, linkage are right parts. Problem, high brake pedal and very touchy braking. As if I am goin to go through the windshield. HELP I NEED TO BURN SOME RUBBER.
Response(s)
I have a 1970 Road Runner, that someone converted it to front disc, I was told by the prior owner that he had changed the valve (don't know the correct name) brass valve that sits on the drivers side frame below the master, and there is another valve with a round handle that you can adjust the pressure....I don't know who makes these but I have seen the product on a mopar site. I haven't had braking problems so I haven't touched either items.
I have also converted from drum to disk on two 70 roadrunners, but I kept it non-power(manual disc)but I do know that the master cylinder is slightly different from drum to disc, they look identical but the later has a check valve in the master that allows fluid to move in one direction only.
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| Question From:
Matt
2007-06-28
| Question:
Anyone work with por 15? I'm looking on using it inside the trunk and interior floor boards. (minor surface rust) Or if anyone knows of an alternative to protecting the floors and trunk, I would greatly appreciate it: Rihno liner, etc.?
Response(s)
I live in Hawaii, and I have used POR15...in my trunk fo my 70 Roadrunner...I sanded the trunk floor, a zinc primer was used and POR 15 was used after....So far it's been holding up fine....note my trunk only had minor surface rust.
According to POR-15's instructions it should be placed on bare metal that has a "tooth" to it. If you are painting large areas that are not all rusty then you should sand the bare metal with an 80 grit sandpaper to allow it to adhere to the surface. It should not be placed over primer - the primer should be placed over the POR-15. Another product that is a bit easier to use (no 3 step application - just 1 step) is called Rust Bullet. Search for it with your web browser and you'll find it immediately. It is every bit as tough as POR-15 and easier to apply. Just get the loose scale off (drill mounted wire brush or sandpaper, etc) make sure the surface is clean and dry and paint on. I have found it to be a very good product. Once again it needs a "tooth" to adhere to so make sure whatever surface you put it on has been prepped well. Apply it directly to metal. It can be used over paint but, like POR-15, it isn't recommended. Use 2 coats and say goodbye to any more rust.
hey work in a resto shop at nights and that stuff can be put right on rust and its strong as hell. We always do prep before use but the stuff is well worth the price.
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| Question From:
Matt
2007-06-28
| Question:
Anyone know where I can find a velocity stack setup to fit a 383. (carbs, induction, everything.) Thanks
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Matt
2007-06-28
| Question:
I am restoring a 1968 Road Runner, and in the process I removed the "home made" dash and interior wiring. Where can I go to get a new wiring harness? Any reliable brands? Thanks
Response(s)
I just finished a TOTAL restoration on my 68 Runner. Every wire harness, fuel and brake line, etc. was out of the car at one point. I used the wiring harnesses from Year One, they are pricey but everything fit perfect and worked as they should. You can get the front light, engine, rear lights, dash and wiper harnesses, probably others depending on your car. The new dash harness will take care of a major problem area in the wiring which is the firewall bulkhead connector.
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| Question From:
Joe
2007-06-26
| Question:
I have a 69 Road Runner and am having a overheating issue I have a 160 thermostat in it just hooked up an electric fan (painless kit that is causing problems with the elec. system) any Ideas on what to do? Thanks
Response(s)
Joe, here are several items that can affect the cooling system. If the motor was rebuilt, was it vatted and do you know that the water jackets are clean and clear of rust, etc. Do you have good water pump and with new belts adjusted correctly? Install a 180 degree thermostat, never leave the thermostat out of an engine.(It will heat due to the water flowing through the radiator too fast) What is the condition of radiator? Has it been flow tested? If it is even partially stopped up it will not cool your engine. (I had my stock radiator recored with a 3 row core., works great) What fan do you have. I run a thermostatic Mopar fan a it does great. Are you running fan shroud? Some cars need them depending on the engine, modifications, fuel, timing, and other engine factors.
hey joe , i also had the same problem in my 68 and i tried several things and the high volume aluminum water pump from milodon and their high flow 180 degree thermostat sold at summitracing.com seemed to do the most for the money. In my situation i purchased the pump not the housing and so far so good.
I once had a similar over heating issue that lasted for years. the big block would get so hot it would vaperlock constantly, especially when I lived in florida. when I had to smog it in California I temperarily switched back to a stock carb, and was suprised to find out that the off the shelf holly was just jettet to lean. changed to the corect 750 dubble pumper and problem solved. I then sold itn to a guy for his 289 hi-po and it ran good for that aplication. Lesson learned, all carbs may look alike, and bolt up, but jetting is touchy.
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| Question From:
Lori
2007-06-25
| Question:
Please help, I have a 71 Road Runner with factory sunroof, does anyone know anybody that can rebuild the motor, which was made by Bosh and is no longer in production.
Response(s)
Lori, I don't know of a specific rebuilder but I would check you local area for businesses that rebuild automotive starters or alternators. Maybe they can help or know someone that specializes in rebuilding small motors. maybe check the yellow pages for electric motor rebuilders.
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| Question From:
Mike
2007-06-25
| Question:
I would like to know on a 1974 True GTX 440 Road Runner how many cars came with sun roofs?
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Greg Mace
2007-06-25
| Question:
I am restoring a 1972 Plymouth Road Runner 400 CI 4 speed with AC and I am looking for help in finding the exact location of the body and other decals.
Response(s)
Hey greg ... try Phoenix graphics
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| Question From:
Lori
2007-06-25
| Question:
I have a 71 Road Runner with manuf. sunroof, 82 made 1 of 5 known left by Galen G. I need help the sunroof motor just stoped working. it needs,rebuilt. American sunroof Inc. is the known installer for Chrysler, and are no longer in buisness. HELP PLEASE
Response(s)
Lori, Am having issues with my '71 RoadRunner pwr sunroof. Can I ask where you were able to find/fix your sunroof motor? I'm in Idaho and no one deals with vintage sunroofs, even the local Mopar dealerships won't touch it. Thanks, Al.
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| Question From:
Mopman68
2007-06-23
| Question:
I have 906 heads on my 383 that were just rebuilt and when I pre-oil the motor the oil pours out of the base of the number four rocker pedistal rather than flowing along the rocker shaft. It is doing this on both sides. Anyone have a similar situation and have a suggestion on a cure?
Response(s)
It might be posible that the rocker shafts have been inadvertantly reversed when they were reinstalled. The small oil holes in the rocker shafts are drilled 15 degrees off of centerline and should all point toward the valve side (not the pushrod side)of the head when installed.
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| Question From:
Bert Cosmo
2007-06-22
| Question:
Is there an online source for decoding a Lynch Road produced '69 Road Runner?
Response(s)
mymopar.com moparpages.com stockmopar.com try these tons of information
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| Question From:
Bert Cosmo
2007-06-22
| Question:
I'm about the purchase a '69 Road Runner. One of the things that it looks like I'll need to replace ASAP is the passenger side steering knuckle. It looks heavily corroded and brittle especially when compared to the driver's side knuckle which appears to have been recently replaced or restored. Aside from a junkyard or ebay, do you guys know of any good sources out there whether NOS, custom, etc. for steering knuckles? Also, any info on interchangeability for this part would be greatly appreciated as well. Thanks.
Response(s)
try www.p-s-t.com they have good prices on suspension parts .
Thanks. I tried them, but unfortunately no steering knuckle. Any other possible sources?
Check with Tony's Parts in Delaware. He has access to a vast number of parts or he may be able to point you to the right source. His web site is www.tonysparts.com.
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| Question From:
Joe
2007-06-22
| Question:
hey,I am redoing a 69 Road Runner which the wiring was very sloopy when I bought it and I am redoing it, some of the wiring is stray wires like thay been disconnected from the device thay was one. I have the wire to do it but I need a wiring specs, so do you know where I can find a manual online so I do not have to buy the whole manual for it.
Response(s)
Joe, I obtained a full color wiring diagram from Classic Car Wiring (classiccarwiring.com)when I started my 68 Runner restoration. It is a front/back, laminated electrical schematic with the correct wire colors. Price is very reasonable. It is much easier to follow than a shop manual. Hope this helps.
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| Question From:
Lester Smith
2007-06-21
| Question:
I purchased a 1973 Plymouth Road Runner two years ago. A lemon twist, 340, four speed. All numbers matched on car, so I thought. I recently got to the point to remove and rebuild engine. I was informed the serial number on engine block, next to oil pan is different than on body. Something like 60 digits off. Did Chrysler ever use engines from a 1972 and placed them in a 1973 body? Can anyone give me information? Thank you.
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Glenn
2007-06-21
| Question:
I am restoring the interior of my 1968 Road Runner and I need to have some plastic parts rechromed. Can anyone recommend a good company.... or ones to stay away from?
Response(s)
Glen, I personally used CV Vacumm Platers. I too had some of my interior parts (gauge bezel)redone and they did a beautiful job at a very far price. I think their website is cvvacuumplaters.com.
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| Question From:
Robert Beard
2007-06-18
| Question:
I have a 1969 Matching #'s Road Runner I want to put back to original, however the fender tag is missing. Does anyone know if the fender tag info, or options on this car, can be gotten with only the vin #?
Response(s)
Robert, If you are lucky enough to find one of the "build sheets" that may be under the rear seat, in the headliner, under the dash, on top of the glove box liner, under the carpet or other places, it will show your VIN number (should be the same as your dash plate) and the options your car was produced with. I think you can get a reproduced fender tag by giving Galen Govier the build sheet information. Check his website (in this message board several places)for details.
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| Question From:
RJ Kipp
2007-06-15
| Question:
Broadcast Sheets- I am starting restoration on a 1972 Road Runner. I found a Broadcast sheet under the front carpet and one behind the backseat. Both have VIN numbers that match the car, but all the codes do not match. Could it be that this car was stopped during production and the accessories changed?
Response(s)
If the vin matches on both broadcast sheets, by all means things could have changed. Anything was possible with Chrysler back then and still is today.
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| Question From:
Adam
2007-06-15
| Question:
I recently bought a 73 Road Runner clone (which started life as a Sebring Plus). I installed a Voice of Road Runner horn, but all I get when I press the horn button is a "beep" instead of a "beep beep".
Is there some electrical component in genuine Road Runners that enables the "double-beep" or am I being stupid to think I can get a "beep beep" without pressing the button twice?
Response(s)
If you want the "beep-beep" you have to do it manually. There was no "double beep" feature on these cars from the factory.
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| Question From:
jim
2007-06-13
| Question:
I have a 1969 Road Runner and need to know the best way to install a headliner also what clip, retainers or trim I need to do it?
Response(s)
I just did mine AAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHhh call Legendary tech line -- 211 then try Hardens tech line Year one''s tech line let it warm up in the sun before installing Be carefull not to over stretch,,, I got all the information I needed basically put it in as tight as possible the mist with DISTILLED and a hair dryer Leave it in the sun with the windows up helps also, the vinyl will size itself so they told me,,,
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| Question From:
Mopar Man
2007-06-13
| Question:
Hi, I have a 69 Charger with a rebuilt 440 in it. My question is on oil pressure, when I hit higher rpm's (5000 and up) my oil pressure drops it also does it when I do any kind of loopers, do you think I need a bigger oil pan or a racing oil filter for it. I think it may be running the pan dry. Thanks in Advance
Mopar Man
Response(s)
what is a looper ?
Looper- sorry maybe I spelled it wrong doughnuts spinning...
Several things could be going on. Have you actually measured your oil pressure with a good mechanical gauge. You should see at least 15 - 20 lbs at idle and if you blip the throttle, the gauge should respond quickly to a higher pressure (50-60 psi). If the gauge is slow (to show higher pressure)to respond, your main/rod bearing clearances my be a too big. If they are, there is nothing you can do other than have the bearings replaced with the proper size/clearance. Do you have a high volumn oil pump? If so, you may be pumping the sump dry during high RPM events. If so, a larger sump, such as the HEMI 6 qt. pan may help. The filter, as long as you are using a good quality (Fram, Wix, Puralotor, etc.) should not be the problem. Good Luck
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| Question From:
Darrel
2007-06-11
| Question:
Am doing a 1968 Road Runner in B-5 Blue. The question I have is to find the correct paint color for the upper and lower interior parts of the door. Any help is appreciated. Thank you....djw
Response(s)
Darrel, Is the B-5 blue the original paint? If so the interior codes are on the vin tag under the hood. A lot of restoration books list the codes and the paint colors. If it is not the original, pick up one of the restoration books (I believe you can get one on this website)and find the colors you want and visit your automotive paint store.
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| Question From:
mark
2007-06-11
| Question:
Can any tell me how to properly locate the Road Runner emblem mounting holes in the doors and trunk of a 1969 Road Runner? The previous owner put Sattelite doors and trunk on it. thank you
Response(s)
performancecargraphics.com has a lot of emblem locations,,,I think I saw what you are looking for on this site
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| Question From:
Tom
2007-06-09
| Question:
I'm thinking of doing a conversion on my 1969 383 4spd RR from manual steering to power. Are most parts available after market, and do I need to change the column? Thanks for any info you can give.
Response(s)
Tom, Yes, Most everything you need to add power steering is available. Aftermarket parts houses such as Year One and Jim's Auto parts have the steering box, pump, pitman arm, brackets,hoses, etc. I beleive you will need to change your steering column. I have recently seen on Ebay several columns. One of them may work. Good luck.
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| Question From:
Scott.
2007-06-07
| Question:
I was woundering if you could help me. I found a 1973 Road Runner hood, with hood pin holes. it has been sitting in a barn for 15 to 20 year there is NO RUST on the hood but it has got 20 year of dust sitting on it. I was wounding what this hood would be worth. Plus, I also found rear round marker/back up light for 67/68 (the small round lights that are mounted under the bumper for a (67/68baracuda). I was wounder what they would be worth. All these part's are off old scraped car, but in great shape. Hope you can help me with my little problem, and there are a lot more parts in this barn.
Response(s)
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| Question From:
mike
2007-06-07
| Question:
I have got a 73 chicken with the dash and fender tags both saying RM which is the Road Runner. However, the car has rear crank down windows. Did the 73 Road Runner come with this option or do I actually have a Satelite with a couple tags from another (real) Road Runner?
Response(s)
Is it a RM23 or RM21? 23 would be roll down windows 21 would be solid or popout.
like I said....the dash says rm21 which is a RR...however...the windows are roll downs which makes me wonder if somebody put RR tags on a satelite? SOOO... once again I ask the RR community.. did the 73 RR come with this option, is there any chance I actually have a RR or did I get duped into buying a satelite with fake tags???? I constantly ask this question and get cryptic answers...if anyone knows please let me know.
In 1973 there were no pop out rear windows. These Runners were the newer body style. I had a 73 440 GTX (one of 117 made) Runners and my rear windows rolled down. The RM21 and RM23 were the early Runners that were either a RM21 coupe with pop out rear windows or a RM23 hardtop with roll down rear windows. Hope this helps.
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| Question From:
Duane
2007-06-04
| Question:
Does anyone know if 71 roadrunner had reflective striping or just gloss black. I have heard both but have not found documentation yet
2 did all 71 b-body cars have cowl to finder bracing?
THANK YOU
Response(s)
My '71 Charger SE did not have cowl to fender bracing, while the'72's did. I noticed this at many car shows and it was a topic of interesting conversation. As for the road runner striping - yes, there was a reflective stripe available but I could not tell you the code for it. I do remember seeing it in the car magazines and dealer literature at the time.
Thanks, I have seen some 71 with the braces and some with out the fender bracing, Guess I'll keep looking for the information on the stripes. Thanks agian Now ,would you like to install my headliner ????
I'll muddy the waters a little more. I had a 73 440 GTX Road Runner which had the drivers fender strip damaged from the factory. The parts department ordered a new stripe which was a horrible match. After digging through the body parts book, I discoved two stripes were made. A "bright white" and a reflective white. Maybe in 71 they did something similar. If you can find a body shop manual for 1971 it might lend some light on your question. Hope this helps.
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| Question From:
al guerra
2007-06-03
| Question:
Are fire wall assemblies for a 1979 volarie (roadrunner package)available or do major rust spot areas have to be cut and replaced with welded sheet metal?
Response(s)
Cut out the bad and weld in the new. I have not ever seen any new repops of the firewalls. Good Luck
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| Question From:
Ramon Murillo
2007-06-03
| Question:
Just a bit ago I bought a 1974 satellite sebring. Ive been looking to get a cd player or stereo kit to change out the AM radio and Id like to know if there's such a thing for the car. I'm also looking to change the 318 engine to a 440. Im wondering what do I need change out in my car in order to have the new engine fit and work properly. I dont know much about cars so any information to my needs is appreciated!
Response(s)
I did the swap on my 74 years ago. At that time I had to cut and move the k-frame brackets to match the big-block. All I did was add a 727 and rework a few wires on the engine. Now, you can get mounts from Year One that do the trick.
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| Question From:
Joe
2007-05-31
| Question:
69 roadrunner power steering box needs replacing does anyone know if there is a box that would give you a response like today's rack and pinion?? Thanks
Response(s)
Joe, Go on the internet and search under "mopar steering boxes". You will get tons of companies that service or sell new boxes. I know some of the "firm feel" police boxes were quicker ratio and had a better road feel "at Speed". Hope this helps.
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| Question From:
Brian
2007-05-29
| Question:
Does anyone know the capacity of the gas tank in a 1971 Road Runner. I think it is a 20 gallon tank but not positive. Thank you.
Response(s)
Brian, All new replacement tanks are 20 gallon. I would assume the old tanks were the same. If you have your glovebox operator manual or a shop manual the information will be in both. Hope this helps.
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| Question From:
Mike
2007-05-28
| Question:
Looking for aftermarket windshield and rear window for 1969 Road Runner hardtop. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Response(s)
Howdy, Try PS Auto glass. I know they carry both tinted and clear windshields for the 68 thru 70 b-bodies and most likely can get the rear. psautoglass.com 866-565-9557
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| Question From:
junkcf
2007-05-27
| Question:
I have been restoring my 1970 Road Runner now for about 4 years and I can't remember how everything goes back together. Is there any way I can get a schematic for the entire car? I need to know what parts and bolts are needed and where. Thanks
Response(s)
Been doing my 70RR for 3 years.Took tons of pictures.Let me know what your having problems with,and I might be able to help you out. Rick
I need a refreshment or at least some pics or directions to assemble the front end. I have the fenders hung and radiator and core supporst in but the grille, the piece that is made of thin metal (brow like?) and painted the same as the car are giving me problems, consequently the bumper is also off and there is this strange metal plate that appears to be needed for the hood latch assemble but not sure about any of it. also the head lights are tricky and a headache in them selves. thanks caleb
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| Question From:
amanda
2007-05-26
| Question:
I have a 1968 Dodge Coronet and just got the bumble bee stripe kit. I am wondering what the proper placement is to put it on?
Response(s)
performencecargraphics.com this site has placement of a lot stripe and decals
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| Question From:
ben davis
2007-05-26
| Question:
I have a 1969 Road Runner 440 engine with ceramic or chrome coated headers. I am having trouble with the # 7 spark plug boot burning even with accel short plugs I have maybe a sixteenth to eighth of a inch between the header and the boot. I want to know if there is anything I can do besides raping the header or boot. I do not want it to look bad at car shows.
Response(s)
I would try Jacob's Electronics http://www.jacobselectronics.com/ They have spark plug wires with ceramic boots which will not melt. Contact them with your problem and see if they'll fit with your space limitations. Good luck.
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| Question From:
mike
2007-05-23
| Question:
Did the 1973 Road Runner come available with any other grain (besides boar grain) for the vinyl top? I am about to put a new top on my 73 chicken but recently found out that the original boar grain tops have an inferior backing (nit back) and do not come in the cotton back material which is what I want. I am actually considering putting on a pebble grain top with the cotton back so that I will have a better top even though this would be incorrect....not sure what to do here?
Response(s)
I'm not sure about your question I'm afraid, other than that I just put a top on my 73 from Year One and it looks fine and went on without issue. Is yours a full vinyl top, or "canopy" top? Mine's a full and I have never seen another. Plus it never had stripes. Any idea how many 73 Runners were made?
You can purchase the "Red Book" (CAFStore) from this website. It has most all the production numbers for several years of mopars.
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| Question From:
JK
2007-05-20
| Question:
Can anyone tell me how to get in touch with Galeon? Gavin to do research on my 1973 Roadrunner? Thank you
Response(s)
His name is Galen Govier and he can be reached through his web site at http://www.gvgovier.com/
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| Question From:
D.B.
2007-05-18
| Question:
Does Dales cuda in Ohio have a e-mail address
any contact information helpful. All I could find is a fax number so far. I was told he has stripes and decals at a fair priceand of good quality.
Response(s)
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| Question From:
JAMES
2007-05-17
| Question:
Purchased energy suspension k-frame bushings for my 73 roadrunner this week. Going to install them this weekend. The instructions say refer to factory torque specs. Does anyone know what the factory torque specs an these should be? Also rear bumper filler is shot, any good ideals on a somewhat factory look alternative? thanks for the help.james
Response(s)
mymopar.com has lots of spec's the public library has manuals
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| Question From:
mike
2007-05-14
| Question:
Hey guys...Ive got a whopper of a question for ya..I bought a 73 RR , the fender tag in the engine bay and the dash tag match..they indicate a 73 RR with a 340. HOWEVER..the radiator support does not match and there is no number where there should be on the deck lid. When I bought the car it had (and still does) a 440. The car ALSO has rear crank down windows...Even though the two tags match, I always thought that satelites from that year had rear crank downs and RR's had the pushouts..BUT..I recently found out that the RR GTX DID have rear crank downs. SOOOOOO, I dont know if I have a roadrunner or a sattelite..Im not sure if someone went to a bone yard and took the numbers off a real RR. My title matches the two tags which say RR but do I legitametely have a actual bird?? No need to run the vin..done it three times.
thanks
Response(s)
Not sure about the 73 RR, but my 70 RR has a RM23 which is a Road Runner Hard Top....RM21 is a RR coupe, RM27 is a convertable, and the RS23 is a GTX....these are for a 70 Road Runner & GTX....I would think that the frist 2 letters would tell you what you have.....My Road Runner also has no number on the radiator support, I checked with a friend who told me that it might have been replaced which has no numbers stamped on it.(rusty, accident or just damaged). My 70 Road Runner has roll down windows on all 4 windows. The break down for the vin# R-satillite-sebring, M-medium (pricing of car),23- 2 door hard top, N-383...in yor car it might be a H which is for a 340....these are based on a a 1970 I'm not sure if they changed the coding on the 73 cars. A friend I know has a 70 satellite and his 2nd letter is a L . I hope this helps :o)
go to stockmopars.com and type in your vin # ,it will tellyou what you have mymopar.com is another moparpages is another ID site how do I find Dales cuda in Ohio has decent prices on stripes and decales
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| Question From:
Charles Taylor
2007-05-13
| Question:
The Beginning, I recently traded a truck of mine for a 73 RR. I have a partial history, which seems to be rough. One of the prior owners used a donor car for the doors and trunk deck and hood, some interior (most). Ok, the car is red with stripes removed, donor was white w/ blue stripe. Hood looks to be originally Plum Crazy. It has a breather that was said to have be purchased by the last owner just to cover the card. The breather has 2 snorkels and is labeled 400. I was told the motor is a 440. The car also has a 4sd pistle grip. So, I found a biuld sheet behind the rear seat and became very confussed. I now have 3 vin#'s and want to find out something more to this car. My first question would be; how can I tell what type motor I have 400 or 440
Response(s)
Charles, The 400 motor is a "low block" (like the 361, 383 & 400) while the 440 is a "raised block" (like the 413, 426 & 440). The most visible way to determine if it is a 440 is there will be a machined block just in front of the intake manifold valley pan, to the right of the distributor and just to the left of the front of the driver side head. It will have the number 440 stamped into it. If you don't see the machined pad (low blocks do not have the pad), look to the left (under) the distributor for a machined pad just in front of the passenger side head. You should see a stamping showing the engine, ie: 400. As an additional note, NO 440's were installed in '73 with a 4-speed, only automatics. If the car is an ORIGINAL 4-speed car I would guess it was a 340 originally. Hope this helps.
Ok thanks for the imput. I did find the plate and know now that I have a 440. My next ? would be "how can I tell what year my 440 was created in?" since I know that my car wasn't a 440 car.
There will be a casting date on the side of the block. I think it is on the drivers side. The last couple of numbers should be the year the block was cast. Also, if there are other numbers on the pad with the "440" you may be able to determine the year by that. Send me any numbers that are on the pad and I'll see if I can help.
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| Question From:
Greg
2007-05-13
| Question:
Hey guys, I was wondering if you know how many 73 Road Runners were produced with a full vinyl roof, and by default a stripe-delete car.
Response(s)
Your best two places to go would be Galen Govier at http://www.gvgovier.com/ or the Walter P. Chrysler Museum at http://www.chryslerheritage.com/
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| Question From:
Kevin McCormick
2007-05-13
| Question:
Does a 1969 RoadRunner with a 383 have the vin# stamped somewhere on the block? If so, can you tell me where on the block to look please? I'm talking to a dealer who says the 383 RoadRunner motors did not have a vin stampings, only the 440s and 426s. Thanks for the help-Kevin
Response(s)
Kevin, I believe the dealer may be wrong. I have a numbers matching 383 1968 Runner and have recently finished my restoration. My block had the partial vin number stamped into the bell housing rail, just behind the driver side head. It was hard to find until I had the block vatted. (depends on how many coats of paint may have been sprayed over the years) If it is a numbers match car, the last several digits of the dash board VIN should be stamped into the block. Hope the helps. I just remembered something else. Some motors, and your 69 may be this way may have had the VIN number stamped along the oil pan rail on the drivers side. Is a lot harder to find but I wanted to let you know.
Actually its on the oil pan rail on the passenger side right near the engine mount on 69 engines. The oil pan rail is tha area on the block where the block and oil pan meet. There is a small machined pad maybe .2" tall where the numbers are stamped. They are small so you'll need a can of carb cleaner, a brush (if the engine is dirty and greasy)and a flashlight to see the numbers well.If the engine is the original the numbers will correspond to some of the numbers on the VIN tag.
right hand side of the block, below the exhuast, there should be your numbers
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| Question From:
Greg Kutsch
2007-05-10
| Question:
First, I would like to thank this website for its information in answering my Mopar questions. I have a 69 RR in the body shop and he's telling me I should get new front fenders since mine will take to much time to make straight. (no rust). My question is, will 69 Sattelite fenders work? I know I'll have to fill the emblem holes and drill holes for my outboard fender mounted indicators.(Barrel shape). Thank you for the help.
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Darryl
2007-05-08
| Question:
Is there a gasket/seal that goes on the firewall that the power brake booster attaches to?
Response(s)
Yes, thin white foam between the black bracket & firewall
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| Question From:
DB
2007-05-08
| Question:
Anyone know of a place I can get dust boots for the control arm, idler arm and tie rod ends? The guy I bought this 1971 Road Runner from destroyed the boots installing the new parts. THANKS
Any new suppliers out there for striping and decals?
Response(s)
Check many of the restoration parts houses such as Year One, Jack's Auto Parts and Jim's Auto Parts. All are on the web. They have boots for most of your suspension pieces. ALso, many auto parts dealers such as Advance or Bumper to Bumper can probably get the boots through Moog, etc.
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| Question From:
mike
2007-05-05
| Question:
I have a 1973 Road Runner that has had a 440 dropped into it. I am cloning it into a GTX Road Runner...on the decklid, how is the Road Runner name and the GTX emblem situated? Is the Road Runner emblem all vertical or road on top and runner underneath? Is the GTX emblem directly under the runner? Please help.
thanks-mike
please email with answer.
Response(s)
Here's some pix, hope they help. You'll have to scroll down a bit, but you'll find 'em. http://members.tripod.com/~callingdrlove/randy/images/images.html
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| Question From:
Luke
2007-05-04
| Question:
Why was no brake booster fitted to the 6 pack Road Runner/Superbee's?
Is there room to retrofit one?
Thanks,
Luke
Response(s)
they used horsepower, I put one on mune,,,used the two peace booster,4.5 inches then add the master cylinder lenght cost 70 and had it rebiult for $125 work great I do have an extra booster,,,but rebuild is for saftey,,,brakes come in handy
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| Question From:
Tom
2007-05-02
| Question:
I am repainting a B5 Blue Road Runner. I had a DuPont # 4982L and it looks too blue. I also have a Ditzler # 2019. Can someone help me with the right paint mix for a B5 Blue?
Thanks,
Tom
Response(s)
you might have it on too heavey,,if to heavy of a caot metalic bits will not float and it will look darker
You should really color match off any original paint the car has since there are many variations between original cars. The Dupont was too dark & greenish to match my original & the PPG was too silver-y & a little bit light. Talk to your paint store. I discovered there are nine shading variations for the PPG 2019 & we 'adjusted' the 2019 for a color match on mine. Mostly it was a little less metallic in it.
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| Question From:
Terry Beals
2007-05-02
| Question:
I'm having a problem installing a headliner in my 71 Road Runner. It's a six bow style. I tried the website that someone on here mentioned but didn't get any where. Any help?
Response(s)
I tried that web site also,, no help at all I haven't tried installing my new headliner yet, letting the wrinkles come out of it first, I got the headliner from Legendary,,did you find anyone who might have a closer match to original
I put my headliner in my 70 RR.I started at the back(where the wire clips attached to the metal)Then I just took one bow at at a time,pulled it tight,and on to the next.Each time I pulled the bow,I would put the metal clips on each side.
I watched as a person put mine in my 70 roadrunner. They used a hair dryer to shrink it up as it was installed. Joe
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| Question From:
Terry Beals
2007-05-02
| Question:
How many 1971 Road Runners are painted GF7 dark metallic green? This is a 383 4 speed car.
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Michael Treanor
2007-05-02
| Question:
I have two 1974 GTX 440 u code cars both with sunroofs, one is white/white red stripe and the other is black/black white stripe. How rare or how many were made, and if restored what would they sell for? Thanks Mike
Response(s)
Mike, If your Road Runners are true & original 440 powered (GTX option) cars you have two of only about 75 made in '74. My Red book says 117 GTX 440's were built in 73 and about 75 in 1974. The differnet options may narrow the number even more. Sell price after restoration will be high. It all depends on how much someone wants one and how deep their pockets.
I just found an unrestored, very nice original owner car somewhere online, and the guy was asking over $30,000. I've seen restored ones going for over $20,000. What they actually sold for I don't know.
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| Question From:
Cameron
2007-04-30
| Question:
I'm trying to find out the number of 1974 Road Runner GTX's produced.
Response(s)
The 1974 Road Runners could be purchased with the 440 Engine which was part of the GTX option. No other engine carried the GTX badge. About 117 were produced in 1973, around 75 in 1974. The Red Book that is available for purchase on this web site breaks down the numbers. (CAFStore)
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| Question From:
Luke
2007-04-28
| Question:
Can you fit a Holley carb and Edelbrock rpm manifold under a 1969 GTX air grabber bonnet assembly?
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Brian
2007-04-26
| Question:
Hello everyone,
I am in desperate need of any hands on real world experience with regards to fitting new tires and rims under my 1971 Road runner. It currently has the stock suspension, disc in front drum in rear and standard 14" rallye rims with 60's for tires. I want to change things out a bit but still retain that classic muscle car stance.I do not want any of those new style huge 18 or 20 inch rims. I want to bump up to a 15" rim, maybe an 8"wide in back and 7"wide in front and need to know how much rubber I can stuff under the car with out it hitting or rubbing. I want wide rubber with plenty of sidewall. I'd really like to use the new Mickey Thompson Sportsman SR radial. All my local sources seem to be having trouble telling me exactly what sizes or combinations (tires & rims) will work. Will I need to alter the back spacing? I will be using the bird for local cruising with the occasional and inevetible stop light drags. What have all of you managed to come up with for combinations or stuff into your wheel wells with out issues. Please help It's time to bring her out of hibernation and I need to get some new rollers on asap.
I thank you in advance for all your assistance.
Response(s)
I am not exactly familiar with your car but here are a couple of suggestions in case you don't get a definite response. Check your current tire/wheel combination. Is it centered in the wheelwell? How much distance do you have from the frontside of the tire to your quarter panel? How much distance do you have from the backside of the tire to the inner wheelwell. Be sure to allow for suspension travel as most wheelwells get more narrow at the top. If you take these measurements carefully, then remove your existing tire/wheel combo, measure the backspace (from the outer most rim to the back of the center section) you should be able to get a good idea of what will fit. If everything is centered and you have, lets say 3 inches inside and outside, then you can go up a couple of inches in rim width as long as you keep the same backspace considering the new rim width. Example: If you have a 6 inch rim with a 3.5" backspace, you could go to a 8 inch rim with a 4.5" backspace and keep the rim in the center of your wheelwell. If your tire/wheel combo needs to go in or out to center it in the wheelwell, adjust the backspace of the wheel when you order them. This takes care of the wheels, you need to check the tire height and width similarly. Hope this helps a little.
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| Question From:
Johnny
2007-04-25
| Question:
Can I fit a 15x10 rim on my 1970 Satellite without rubbing? If so, what size backspace do I need and will a 60 tire fit that size rim? Also, if I run with a 15x8, what size back space do I need? This is for the rear tires and rims. I'm thinking of running Aero's on it and want to fill the rear well as much as possible without rub. Thanks in advance.
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Joe
2007-04-22
| Question:
When painting the stripe on a 69 runner do the jambs get painted black?
Response(s)
Hi Joe: Not sure what you mean. If you are looking to paint the hood stripes just follow the diagram above. You do not need to paint any door jambs but there may be a slight amount of overspray that will hit the jambs - unless of course you mask from underneath at the fender/cowl gap.
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| Question From:
Greg Kutsch
2007-04-20
| Question:
I purchased a 1969 Road Runner with front disk brakes and rear 11" drums. Was this combo available on my 383 car. Would this option code be on my fender tag or did previous owner convert? Car has manual brakes and work excellent. Also I'm looking for RH rotor as it is worn thin. Also car is lacking front sway bar.
Response(s)
If the car was an orig. disc brake car the front calipers will be Bendix with fixed calipers and 4 pistons per caliper. The rear brakes will be 10x2.5" and the system will have power boost. You car has been converted since all factory disc brake setups utilized power boost. The rotors can be had fairly inexpensively (compared to the Bendix setup) but you will need to verify that you have full floating calipers (these have 1 large piston on each side instead of the Bendix system's 2 small pistons on each side.) You may need to pull a rotor and get a part number off it if you can. I am sure any of the disc brake conversion kit manufacturers can help with the rotors. You can also get aftermarket front sway bars or hit the swap meets looking for an original 69 part. Build sheet option codes for factory disc brake cars are: 29 Front disc brakes B41 Disc Brakes B51 Power brakes 591 3.55:1 S/G 8.75" Axle w/10" Drums (verifying 10" drums on rear of disc brake cars) These are the codes off my build sheet.
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| Question From:
Jim Bostic
2007-04-20
| Question:
Where can I buy an original pistol grip gear shif knob for a 69 Road Runner [i'm looking for the old wood one]
Response(s)
Try www.brewersperformance.com
You can't buy a orginial "pistol grip" shift knob for a 69 Road Runner, because "pistol grip" shifters were not installed on 69 Road Runners. "Pistol grip" shifters were first used in 1970.
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| Question From:
Palle K. Nielsen
2007-04-20
| Question:
Whats the problem with my 1973 Road Runner Satellite when the gasoline and water temperature gauges at the same time just shows half of what they should? Thanks in anticipation.
Response(s)
Most all Mopars use a voltage limiter (regulator) under the dash to drop the battery voltage from 12 volts down to about 5-6 volts for the gauges. The temperature and fuel gauges are usually the only gauges on this circuit. You may need to check a service manual for the location of the limiter but I would bet your problem is related to a defective limiter. If the voltage output of the limiter is low then your gauges will indicate low also.
That limiter is bolted right to the back of the guage panel. It's best to remove the panel to do it, there's a lot less swearing. I believe Year One sells them. You have to remove the heater panel first to get the panel out all the way, held in by two 3/8 nuts.
What I meant was, you have to UNBOLT the heater controls from the instrument cluster, to squeeze the cluster out past the dash frame. There, that's better, lol.
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| Question From:
Chuck
2007-04-16
| Question:
Need to know which type of interior is on my 1969 RR T5-T5. Saddle bench, black carpet. Seats and door panels are two tone. Also has a plain jane steering wheel with a soft horn button, no horn ring. No cartoon either. Have Fender tag and Broadcast sheet, but no clue I can interpret. Want to order new interior, need to know custom or standard or whatever. Also anyone make restoration seat belts?
Response(s)
Chuck, Go on-line and either order or call Year One for one of their catalogs for the Mopar B bodies. There is a lot of decode info in them. They also have a great picture section and details on interiors and options. There are also DECODE books on this website (HHStore)that makes decoding your Mopar reasonably easy. As for the seat belts, I don't know of anyone making the CORRECT factory belts. Some are close but not right. If you have your old belts or if you can find a set on Ebay, companies like Snake Oyl can restore your old belts like new but it is NOT cheap. I had them do mine and they are beautiful but very pricey. Hope this helps.
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| Question From:
STEVE
2007-04-15
| Question:
I need some help. I am looking for 70 Plymouth Road Runner/GTX front bucket seats. I understand that most Likely I will have to recover them. What years and what models of cars where these seat cores used on? I am being told by some sellers that they were the same seats used on Chargers and some early 70s cars, is that correct? Thanks.
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Greg Kutsch
2007-04-11
| Question:
I have a 69 Road Runner and have all the windows out. How was the back window put in? Was some kind of sealer used w/spacers or was there a gasket. It seemed like somebody had the window put in wrong, it leaked and there was no s.s. moulding on it. When I bought the car they just handed me the window trim front and rear. Thank you for any help.
Response(s)
Greg, The rear window uses a ribbon sealer. Jim's Auto parts (Mopar restoration parts dealer)has the sealer with the spacer blocks. Go to their website jimsautoparts.com. Here is the section from their website talking about the seal. FRONT & REAR WINDSHIELD INSTALLATION KITS Some vehicles do not use a rubber windshield seal for installation of the windshield. They use this 3M Windo-Weld Ribbon Sealer. This ribbon sealer is installed around the windshield pinchweld and when windshield is installed, ribbon forms around the windshield creating a seal (spacer blocks included). Use 3M-Windo-Weld Resealant to fill in any cracks or pinholes for a completely airtight seal. Window-Weld Ribbon comes in 5/16" or 3/8" widths and is15' long. Windo-Weld Resealant comes in a 16 oz. can. 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (3M-08984) is highly recommended for clean up of resealant. Fits the following models: 68-70 B Body (Rear); 71-74 B Body (Front & Rear) & 70-74 E Body (Front & Rear).
The 5/16 is standard..If you go with the 3/8 you may have a problem getting the window molding to fit properly
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| Question From:
matt
2007-04-11
| Question:
Is there any place, phone number, or website available that sells or deals with FULL quarter panels for '68 Road Runners? I have been up and down and in and out just about everywhere I can think of and can't find them. Quarter skins are plenty, but no full quarters. Thanks to anyone.
Response(s)
Matt, I just saw a full NOS 68 Road Runner left rear quarter panel on Ebay. NOT cheap but its there. It is under 68 roadrunner and item number was 110115466491. Hope this helps. I think this is the first full panel I have seen in a LONG time.
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| Question From:
mark
2007-04-09
| Question:
Looking for a little help, I'm having my 69 Road Runner painted and we are going to undercoat the car. the gas tank has been painted the body color by previous owner, I was wondering if there is a special paint out there that would match the factory color of a new gas tank or do I need to buy a new one? Thanks in advance, Mark.
Response(s)
Mark, Many restoration shops leave the tank the natural sheet metal color. However, most of the time the chassis and underside are not undercoated showing all the nice restoration work. Back in the old days, the dealers normally undercoated the cars after they received them and from what I remember, most times the gas tank was also coated. About the only choices you have is to either replace the tank if you want the natural sheet metel apperance, remove it and strip the paint or have it bead blasted, paint the tank a silver color or undercoat it as the dealers did.
I think eastwood could have your paint for that gas tank.
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| Question From:
Clay Fees
2007-04-09
| Question:
Does anyone know whether carpeting was standard in the 69 Road Runner, or was the rubber floor mat still available, either as standard equipment or as an option? I prefer the mat in my particular car.
Response(s)
Clay, I believe the rubber floor mat was still standard in 69 in the base RoadRunner as was a very plain (taxi cab) front bench seat with vinyl covering. If you elected the decor group you got a better seat covering along with carpet and a few other items.
I bought a 1969 Road Runner new in April 1969 the only options were AM Radio, Power Steering and Power Brakes. It had standard taxi cab interior and it came with carpet.
In '68 the mat was standard but by 1969 I am almost positive that carpet was standard. The interiors were upgraded to vinyl covered seats instead of the taxicab seat covers. The bench seat was standard, buckets optional.
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| Question From:
Rich Tremblay
2007-04-07
| Question:
HI! I am a student in McPherson College's auto restoration program. My question is related to 440s, not to RRs, but it should still be applicable. We have a 68 Imperial that we are trying to find the correct engine color code (PPG paint code) for. Any ideas?
Response(s)
Hi Rich I'm not sure about any paint code for the engine color - all I know is its called Chrysler Turquoise and is available through many sources such as Mopar Performance (or Direct Connection - whatever they are calling that program now). Check with your paint supplier to see if they can come up with a code for the Chrysler Turquoise. Good luck on your build.
Hey Rich, The engine color is simply Chrysler Turquoise. You can get it at any Chrysler dealership (they may need to order it from Mopar Performance) or it can be purchased from many Mopar restoration houses such as Year One or Jim's Auto Parts. Learn all you can. Your generation is the next to keep up the restoration of the great musclecars and other collectable cars of the mid sixties.
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| Question From:
Vinny
2007-04-06
| Question:
Does anyone have the adjustment specs for the clutch adjustment on a 69 RR A833 4 spd w/ 11" clutch parts? I can't find my old service manual.
Thanx, Vinny
Response(s)
Hi Vinny. The service manual says: "(1) Inspect condition of clutch pedal rubber stop. If damaged, install a new one. (2) On models equipped with 3 speed transmissions disconnect gearshift interlock rod by loosening rod swivel clamp screw. (3) Adjust fork rod by turning self-locking adjusting nut to provide 5/32 inch free movement at end of fork. This movement will provide prescribed one inch free play at pedal.
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| Question From:
mark
2007-04-05
| Question:
Hello everyone, I'm restoring my 69 Road Runner grill and was wondering what color I use to match the black found on the grill, I've tried semi gloss black and satin black and can't seem to get it right, any help would be appreciated, thanks Mark.
Response(s)
Mark, If I am not mistaken, the color you are needing is called black organisol (forgive my spelling. It can be purchase in aerosal form from resotration houses such as Totally Auto, Year One and others. It was a special black, not gloss, not flat, some sheen and slight texture.
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| Question From:
Joe
2007-04-04
| Question:
I have a 69 Road Runner I am thinking about putting 17 or 18 " wheels on it. Does anyone know what the backing would be and what size tires I could use? Thanks in advance. Joe
Response(s)
Hi Joe, I'm th first to say "di with your car as you please", BUT, I think these larger wheels are really out of place on musclcars.
I did the research on 17's and it is 4.25-4.5 on either 17x8's or 17x7's. In my opinion the best bet is 17x8-4.5 rear and 17x7-4.25 front cause you want the front in a tiny bit more to look correct. Ive checked out allot of pictures of various rims sizes a 17 seems to be the size that still has a custom mussle car look without dipping in to the Dr. Dre/Snoop look. 18,19,and 20's end up looking more like a low rider. Trust me on this.
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| Question From:
mike
2007-04-03
| Question:
I have a 69 Road Runner and have located what was left of a build sheet. Does any body know who reproduces these?
Response(s)
Hi Mike. Ive seen these repro`s on ebay and after you win you give them your info and they send you the finished product and it looks pretty good. I have purchased 2, one for a 69 charger I restored and one for a 70 roadrunner that I`m working on now. Cheers and good luck, Mike
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| Question From:
GREG CARSON
2007-04-02
| Question:
Hi how many 73 Roadrunners were built in Canada / Windsor plant....400 autos ? Thanx Greg
Response(s)
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| Question From:
D.B.
2007-04-02
| Question:
Does anyone know where I can get general directions for headliner installation?
Response(s)
Try this site it might help a bit.http://www.wlsheadliners.com/bowstyle/56belairinstall.shtml
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| Question From:
Koss
2007-04-01
| Question:
Does anyone know what H4X (interior) code on the fender tag of a 68 Road Runner translates too?
Response(s)
That would be a black bench seat, black carpet, black door panels and black instrument panel and headliner....hope this covers it
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| Question From:
mark
2007-04-01
| Question:
i have bought a 69 Road Runner, b3 color rotisserie restored, however it wasn't born that way it was t7. My question is I have it in the paint shop all apart, should I paint it T7, the original color, I would like to but I'm not pulling the motor, my painter is willing to tape everything off and paint the entire car t7, however the underside he would like to undercoat it. Is it going to tacky that we are not completely taking the car apart to shoot everything, like the interior, motor, underside, just to get it back to original color, I'm unsure any sugestions would be appreciated, thanks.
Response(s)
IMO if you aren't going to yank the engine then leave it b3. As you know, Mopar engine compartments were the same color as the rest of the car so if you are going to paint the car the engine compartment should be the same color as the rest of the car. Nothing looks tackier than to have a nice paint job on the outside only to see a horrible engine bay (either a different color or black - yuk!) when the hood is opened. Do yourself a favor and keep it uniform as much as possible. If the engine bay is b3 then keep the rest of the car b3. It will look a lot better. As for the underside - you don't need to paint it the same color as the rest of the car as the factory never did so. Mine is undercoated from the factory and I have retouched some areas so undercoating under the car is a-ok and will help preserve it from the elements.
thanks for your opinion, we are going to paint the engine compartment t7, but we are not going to pull the motor, we are going to remove as much as we can and tape off the rest and squirt it t7, so it will be body color however the firewall behind certain things will still be b3 you just won't see it because we will tape it off what do you think? thanks for the tip on undercoating that we will do as far as the interior we are not going to pul the seat and carpet to shoot the floor body t7, we will just shoot to the seats. this car is beautiful and is number matching drivetrain however not correct color paint and interior, if someone bought it from me they can pull the interior and change paint color and go back to t7 interior colors, what do you think, thanks mark
Hi Mark If you can get the firewall all t7 that should be fine. It will be difficult to shoot behind the engine though. With diligence you should be ok. When I redid my car I had the local auto paint store put my color (F8 Ivy Green Metallic) into spray cans and I shot my engine bay using the "rattle cans." I had the engine and everything out of the car so it made life really easy. I'd recommend removing the battery and battery tray so you can get to the inner fender underneath the battery. Don't forget to paint the battery tray and mounting brackets as well. I'd also recommend removing the radiator so that you can paint the radiator support bulkhead. Remove the grille and headlights so that you can paint in behind them as well. The more you can paint t7 the better as it makes the car more desireable and therefore more valuable. The reason I didn't use a normal gun is because the car was already repainted by a previous owner but they didn't do the engine bay. Anyway, the engine bay turned out fantastic and you can't tell it wasn't shot along with the rest of the car. I'd recommend checking in with your paint supplier to see if they can whip up a batch of spray cans for you. I had to buy a case (12 cans) minimum that cost $178 but it was well worth it. As for the interior - there is no need to remove everything and paint the floors. I did but it needed a new interior anyway. All I did was treat the floors to Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator paint and POR-15 and then installed the carpet. I did not shoot it with color because its hidden underneath the carpet. No need to waste color where it won't be seen. The factory never painted the floors - they just got the overspray from the body. You can shoot the metal parts of the door panels by removing the window cranks, door handles and door panel inserts and taping everything off. This will work extremely well if you get the paint in the spray cans as I described above. You won't have to remove the front seats at all but if you want to do the metal panels in back it would be a good idea to remove the back seat. It isn't difficult to take the back seat out and would be well worth it in order to get the metal door panel surfaces painted if they need it. Email me and I'll send you pics so you can see how well the engine bay came out. I'll get you the name brand of the paint too.
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| Question From:
mike
2007-04-01
| Question:
I have a 1970 Plymouth Sport Satellite. It has vinyl bucket seats with cloth inserts. I can't find them in Legendary, or ebay, or anywhere. I have had the VIN decoded, and it sates the car did come with buket seats, vinyl. Nothing about the cloth insert. They appear to be original. It was a Los Angeles built car. Does anyone know where I can get the seats with the cloth inserts? Could this have been a special order thru Plymouth, or the dealer? They are a light gold color vinyl, and the seating areas have a cloth insert which is a cream or light tan color. The exterior color of the car was DY3. Light tan. I went to a couple upholstery shops and they can't match it. Any ideas? The difficult part is finding the cloth insert, that is light color. Thanks in advance for any help
Response(s)
I also have a 1970 Sport Satellite with the original color code of DY3. I'm in the process of restoring it right now. Are you going to restore your car to the DY3 color?
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| Question From:
d.b
2007-04-01
| Question:
Does anyone have an idea where I can get a headliner that will match better to the original? Year one and Legendary are all the same material. I need one for the bright blue upholstery, the carpet and head liner are darker...I believe it is B7 color, or the dye formula for this. Thanks
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Woody
2007-03-30
| Question:
Hey, I'm looking for production numbers by color for 1972 Road Runners. Anyone help? I got a black one recently which seems to be an unusual color judging by the amount of cars I've been watching on eBay. Cheers
Response(s)
try, mymopar.com moparpages.com stockmopar.com I need the fomula for dye on a 71 RR b7 is the headliner color
Hi Woody. Its so hard to say how many of a certain type of car were made in a certain color because there were a number of different plants manufacturing these cars. You'd need production numbers from each plant to try and figure it out. Galen Govier might be able to help (I'm still surprised I have to keep mentioning him as often as I have done so in this forum). Scroll on down the page a ways and you'll find the link to Galen. If he can't help you no one can.
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| Question From:
Michael Sullivan
2007-03-28
| Question:
Hi,Trying to get my chargiing system to work on my 74 Plymouth Satellite (Sebring Sundance). I've hit a total wall, Brand new Voltage regulator/Alternator/Die Hard Battery/rewired Alt to VR. All connectors in place, but both wires had to be spliced. Old ones burnt and frayed. Still, start it up and take positive (cable) off Battery and stops. I wonder what to do next, I'm stumped. Can anyone help? Much appreciated, Mike
Response(s)
I would check all grounding. Make sure the firewall ground and the ground from the battery to the block is clean and the cable is good. Often this is overlooked
You should really use a voltmeter, rather than pulling the cable off.
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| Question From:
STARLET KIMBERLIN
2007-03-27
| Question:
I cannot find a wiring harness diagram for a 1973 Plymouth Road Runner. Anyone who could tell me where to look, would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Response(s)
public library it's FREE
http://www.mymopar.com
I have a 73 also, and I got a beautiful diagram from classiccarwiring.com. It's laminated, great for dirty mechanic fingers.
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| Question From:
ROBERT HOTZ
2007-03-25
| Question:
Did in 1973 the Roadrunner with a 340 have a option of the GTX package?
Response(s)
No, the GTX package came with the 440 engine only.
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| Question From:
doug goodman
2007-03-23
| Question:
I have the instrument cluster out of my 69 Roadrunner and replaced the tach. Now I need to paint the gauge needles back to the orange color my question is where do I get the paint and what color is it?? Thanks DOUG
Response(s)
Doug, When I restored my gauges I went to my local art supply store and found orange floresent paint. There were a couple of different shades but usually there is some areas on the gauge needles that is still good that you can compare the color against. Hope this helps.
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| Question From:
scott davies
2007-03-20
| Question:
I just bought a 68 coronet 440 model hdtp. it has been picked over for parts all sheetmetal is there except decklid I have located a 68 belvedere 4 door what all is interchangeable??? I need glove box, wing windows, windshield, driveline, gas tank, rear seat, rear bumper, front bumper. I am new to mopars.... I can buy the car cheap enough if it would have what I need.... thanx for your help Scott
Response(s)
The decklid for the Belvedere and Coronet are different and will not interchange.
I also forgot to mention that the bumpers are different also. The wing wimdows and front windshield should be interchangable as may the rear seat. The gas tank is questionable. The engine and trans will drop right in but be aware that the Coronet 2 door had a wheelbase 1" longer than its Plymouth brethren (117" vs. 116"). Keep this in mind for driveshaft length as it may be a consideration (someone please help me out with that one). It would be wise to invest in a parts interchange guide for Mopars. If you search the net for "mopar parts interchange guide" I'm sure you'll have no problem locating one.
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| Question From:
Patrick
2007-03-18
| Question:
Has anyone repaired a rusted frame instead of replacing. It looks like where the battery acid leaked down on it.
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Tom
2007-03-17
| Question:
What kind of carb came on a 70 Roadrunner 383ci. Holley or a Carter? What cfm? I need to replace mine and at least want to stay with the right brand.
Response(s)
The 70 383 used a Holley carb. 600-650 cfm (not sure which) single feed.
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| Question From:
Jack Boon e
2007-03-17
| Question:
I currently am restoring a 1968 roadrunner. I had an original in 1968 and this car did not have a vinyl roof. Was the vinyl roof an option in 1968? I don't remember ever seeing one. I might put on a vinyl roof if it was offered as a factory option.
Response(s)
Jack, Yes the vinyl roof was an option on the 68 Runners. My 68 has one and it is identifiable from your fender tag. They were available in black, white and green if I'm not mistaken.
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| Question From:
Greg Kutsch
2007-03-16
| Question:
I would like to know what type of paint was used on a 1969 R.R. on the dash frame and steering column. Can it be bought in a ca? It seams to have a light texture to it. My car has a black dash, but I would like to repaint it. Thank you for your help.
Response(s)
Greg, The paint that mother Mopar used was called "suede". It was a flat finish black textured paint used on the dashes and steering colums for several years. I believe some restoration parts houses such as Year One may hve the paint. If not you will need to get in touch with a PPG rep and see if they can get you the paint code. Hope this helps.
I`ve had very good results using rustoleum BLACK SATAN, Make sure it is SATAN, not flat or gloss. Lowes or home depot will carry it
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| Question From:
Doug Goodman
2007-03-14
| Question:
I would like to find out about swap meets--where do you go to find dates and locations?
Response(s)
Doug, Simply do a web search on "Classic Car Shows" and take your pick. Most every show and swap meet will be listed somewhere. Also subscribe to Mopar publications or magazines which will list many events all around the country months in advance.
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| Question From:
Doug Goodman
2007-03-10
| Question:
I have a 69 Road Runner and I want to remove the front padded dash and the instrument cluster to put in a tach and clean the dash. I have removed all the nuts I can find on the back of the dash and unplugged all the switches but the instument cluster still wont move. What am I missing? Thanks for your help DOUG
Response(s)
Doug, I have been through this with my 68 Runner. I had to drop the steering column so I could then unbolt and unplug the switch (headlight, wiper, etc.)cluster and remove it. Then you can unplug the large round connector (be CAREFUL, the circuit board may be fragile from age)on the back of the speedometer cluster along with the speedometer cable. Unbolt the instrument cluster fromt the dash frame and it should come out. Now you can get to all the screws to unbolt the lower dash pad. Good luck, it is not an easy job. Contact me at my email and I can give you my phone number if you want to discuss in more detail.
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| Question From:
Todd sanders
2007-03-09
| Question:
I am trying to find the correct exterior door handles for my 1968 Roadrunner. I find ones that say NOS but how can I be sure they are? But no handles with the black buttons that I need. I just don't trust $135.00 handles on ebay that say NOS and the guy says they are the same ones yearone sells. Can anyone tell me the factory part number? Which repo are good ones? Thanks, Todd
Response(s)
I have a 1970 Road Runner, and the REPO door handles fit, BUT they were a little off in the mounting stud area. The outside threads hit the outside area of the door. Other than that they were OK. As for the REPO emblems they look a little different, and they are softer metal and bend easy...I had to get NOS or used emblems. I could have sworn that all the door handles were chrome with no black on the handles or buttons a friend has a 1968 RR...
Thanks! what brand are your handles or where did you get them. Todd
just do a search for door handles I have seen many suppliers on the internet I did not keep there addresses
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| Question From:
BILL
2007-03-08
| Question:
I have a 69 Roadrunner 383/335. When the car sits unstarted for 3 or 4 weeks, it takes a lot of cranking to get gas to carb, which is a 550 Edelbrock. Does anyone know of a solution without going to an electric fuel pump? Thanks.
Response(s)
I have the same problem with my 68 GTX 440.
check the choke setting , make sure it's closing like it should .
First check to see if there is fuel in the carb bowl. I think the fuel is slowly leaking out of the bowl into the manifold. I first saw this problem on a 70 Camero with a quadarjet. The mail well plugs leak on that model. There could be a small crack in the bowl also. Todd
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| Question From:
Doug
2007-03-06
| Question:
I have a 1973 RR and the horn doesn't work. I do not know and can not find the horn relay. Could some one please till me where to find the relay? Thanks, Doug
Response(s)
In the ?, I am asking for the physical location on the car.
Doug, Normally the horn relay is very near the horns with a short pigtail wire(s) going from the relay to each horn(s).
for 73-74 the horn relay is on the top left side of the fuse block in the car John Mac
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| Question From:
Ed
2007-03-03
| Question:
I have a 1968 GTX with a Hemi. All original and only 6,000 miles on it. It has not moved for 39 years but is in good shape. Can you tell me the value of it.
Response(s)
Its worth $4,000 but today is your lucky day, I'll give you $6,000.
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| Question From:
Evan Vibbert
2007-03-02
| Question:
I have a 1971 Roadrunner with 20,000 miles the water pump is leaking is there any where I can get seal kit? This is the org and I what to keep it.
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Jason Matuszewski
2007-02-24
| Question:
How many 69 Road Runner 440 6 packs where produced and does anyone know what colors they came in?
Response(s)
Jason, This website sells the "Red Book" which should give you the basic numbers. As for the colors, you will probably need to contact Galen Govier, the Guru of all things Mopar. His contact information has been listed in this site many times. Hope this helps.
Jason, You may want to check the MyMopar.com website. They also may have the numbers you are looking for plus a LOT of other great information for Mopar fans.
By Mail Hanlon Plating Company 925 East 4th Street Richmond, VA 23224 By Email hanlonccp@cs.com By Telephone 804-233-2021 By Fax 804-233-6878
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| Question From:
Mark
2007-02-22
| Question:
I'm looking to buy a front bumper for my 1968 GTX. Does anyone other than Year One sell them? Thanks...Mark
Response(s)
Mark, There are bumper re-platers such as the Bumper Boyz in California. I believe the new units are actually somewhat cheaper. Your call.
Mark: Don't know if you want to rechrome, but here are some guys that plated my road runner bumpers. Cheap and do a great job. By Mail Hanlon Plating Company 925 East 4th Street Richmond, VA 23224 By Email hanlonccp@cs.com By Telephone 804-233-2021 By Fax 804-233-6878 /r Phil
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| Question From:
Mark
2007-02-22
| Question:
Can anyone tell me where to find a "Service Bulleton" for a 1971 Road Runner, to change with wiring harness from points distributer, to electronic distributer?
Response(s)
Mark, Go to MyMopar.com website. Look on the right side and select "downloads". There is a bulletin listed detailing the changeover plus a lot of other downloads for the Mopar fan.
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| Question From:
Joe
2007-02-21
| Question:
What info would I need to check for matching #s
on a 68 Road Runner?
Response(s)
Joe, I also have a 68 Runner. The last several digits of the VIN tag (on the dash at the windshield) will be stamped in the block and transmission. My engine had the VIN number just behind the intake/drivers side head along the bellhousing rail. The transmission had a smooth machined pad on the passenger side and the VIN should be stamped there also. Hope this helps.
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| Question From:
DON GREEN
2007-02-21
| Question:
Hello to all you Mopar gurus, I am also a Mopar nut and have been for a long while. My question is I am in the process of restoring a 1969 383 4spd air grabber Road Runner and it's a factory a manual steering car and I want to change it to power steering and I wanted to know if I install a power steering gear box will I have to get a power steering shaft as well or will the factory manual steering column shaft work? You know as far as lengths? Please let me know. Thanks a lot Don.
Response(s)
Hey Don .You need the longer power Steering shaft
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| Question From:
Mike
2007-02-14
| Question:
Are the 71-72 b-body core supports the same on the Dodge and Plymouth chassis? I think they are but looking for someone who knows for sure. Thanks Mike
Response(s)
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| Question From:
Phillip E. Henson
2007-02-12
| Question:
I have a 1969 Plymouth Road Runner numbers matching 4 speed, 383 car. The car is all there but has sitting outside in Tennessee since 1981. The car is very rusty around the back glass and inside the trunk. I also have a 1969 four door sedan satellite that has 32,000 original miles very clean car. Has anyone converted a 4 door to a Road Runner? Is the wheel base different? How much trouble? Also where are the numbers on the Road Runner?
TNROAD
Response(s)
Phillip, See the 1/28/07 response below. Same subject, same answer.
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| Question From:
Mark
2007-02-11
| Question:
Great site. I have a 68 440 GTX. I'm getting ready to replace the dash pad. Does the original dash pad have the studs that my repro has? What all needs to be removed to get to the studs? Looks like it's going to take small socket with a few extentions. Thanks
Response(s)
When I replaced mine I had to remove the instrument cluster, radio and glove box. Once all that is out of the way the studs/nuts are easily accessible. Use a 1/4" drive with a long extension and socket. I put some blue silicon in the socket to help secure the sheet metal nuts because they'll fall right out of the socket and you'll never find them again. The dash will look like a bomb went off in it because of all the wiring and stuff. Don't panic - it will all go back together ok. Good luck!
Thanks for the advice. The new pad is installed. Now it's time to put this mess back together. Mark
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| Question From:
Tony
2007-02-09
| Question:
I am trying to find a correct engine color for my 69 Road Runner with 383. I heard there is a street (flat) orange and hemi (bright) orange. Anyone knows which color?
Response(s)
I'm fairly sure you should paint it the street orange, unless it's an AC car. Then it should be torquoise.I beleive the bright orange were for the race hemi's.
As far as I know there was only one orange engine color known as "Hemi Orange." You can buy the engine paints through Mopar Performance/Direct Connection, Jegs, Summit, etc. All 1969 383 Hi-Po engines were Hemi Orange. All 383 2bbl's and 383 4 bbl's installed in a/c equipped cars were painted Chrysler Turquoise. 383 4 bbls installed in road runners were 330hp - not 335hp according to Galen Govier. My build sheet verifies this (my car is a 69 road runner 383 4 bbl, factory 4 speed with a/c.)
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| Question From:
Tony
2007-02-09
| Question:
I bought a Comp.Hooker Headers from Summit Racing for my 69 Road Runner with 383 but I have hard time installing it. It seems like it hits a torsion bar on drivers side.. any suggestions?
Response(s)
Check with Summit Racing Tech line to see if they can help. Some headers required removing the torsion bar, installing the headers and re-installling the torsion bar THROUGH the header pipes. Good Luck
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| Question From:
Tully
2007-02-09
| Question:
I have a 1972 Plymouth Road Runner. Love the car. Kind of off topic- purchased a 1974 Cuda off Ebay for $17,500. When I got the car the main vin number off the dash was missing. The seller never mentioned this in the ad. I feel this would devalue the vehicle. I know it was not a big block car or highly optioned. However, missing this would certainly de-value the car. Your thoughts? Tully
Response(s)
yes it will,,,ge t your number off the fender tag and do a seqrch for the window tag reproduction out fits,, they are out there
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| Question From:
Duane Wright |
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