Question From:
ben
2008-05-07
| Question:
Question (1): I replaced my fuel level sending unit from 5/16 to 3/8. The new unit has 1/4 inch return for fuel/vapor seperator. Do I really need this expensive device? This is for 440 engine. I was told that all 440, 440 6pacs, Hemi engines used 3/8 fuel line. What a bout the A12 69 1/2 Road Runner? Question (2): My fuel gauge is still reading low. When I replaced unit in the tank, the gauge said e. I poured 11 gallons into two 5 gallon buckets. If I grd the gauge it gose past fuel mark. The sending unit is grouded to the car, replaced voltage limiter. I even bolted an eletronic voltage regulator up to 35 v in t5 volts out, still the same results. Tell me if this could cause this low reading. My car dose have air shocks and the rear is jacked up at least 4 inches. This a 1969 Road Runner gas prices is to high to be guessing 72 ohms empty 12 to 14 ohms full.
Response(s)
The fuel/vapor seperator helps in reducing vapor lock at the engine due to heat. If your car is prone to vapor problems (hard starting)you may need to add the return line and get the seperator. I have heard from many sources that some of the aftermarket sending units do not work well with the factory gauges. The calibration is off by as much as 1/4 tank. You may be having this problem. I would contact ever who you bought it from and question them. It sounds like you have tried most everything that normally is a problem.
|
| Question From:
Ron
2008-05-07
| Question:
1968 Road Runner, on the door glass there is a window slide that mounts to the window where can I get these slides? Thanks.
Response(s)
I got mine from Tonys Parts (www.tonysparts.com)in Delaware. He is great at helping you get small parts such as this. Check his website and give him a call. The slide is attached to the window with a nylon fastener or rivet, you will need to ask him for them also. OR where you can get them.
|
| Question From:
RW Eggert
2008-05-05
| Question:
Can you recommend a good restoration shop on the East coast? I've got a 68 that needs a complete restoration. Thanks.
Response(s)
a recomendation on a car restoration is always a nice thing to have But you really should do a little looking for your self im not being mean what Im trying to say is go to shops around your area and ask them to see there work look at the cars top to bottom left to right ask about what they specialize in can they weld do they use lead,fiber glass,filler or some kind of other method have they done a old car how long have they been doing it just some things to ask and look for I have a guy here in michigan that could easily compete with chip foose hes that good depending on what you want to spend on the cars restoration is usually how they determine the quality of work they do and what kind of material they use good luck
Hodge's Restorations are in South Carolina (I think) There website shows several of their projects. You might want to check them out. You may also want to go to Galen Govier's website. (gvgovier.com). He is the guru of all thing Mopar and he has recommendations posted. (Grey Sheet) Good Luck
|
| Question From:
Bernie
2008-05-05
| Question:
I just purchased a 71 GTX with the power sunroof. I'm told this is one of 32 GTX's with this option. The sunroof option is not coded on the fender tag and I have no build sheet. Was this option on the build sheet only?
Response(s)
You may need to send Galien Govier your information unless someone just knows the answer. His website is gvgovier.com. He is the guru of Mopars and can research (for a fee)most anything Mopar so you will have a straight answer.
|
| Question From:
johnrobbins
2008-05-04
| Question:
Can someone tell me the correct trunk mat for the 70 Road Runner and the correct spare rim and tire combo? Thanks.
Response(s)
Plymouth put in whatever they had in the trunk as the car went down the line.YearOne or the Paddock can fix you up.
|
| Question From:
Bill
2008-05-04
| Question:
Looks like I need a dash pad for my 69 Road Runner and so what I need to know are the repops any good?
As it is a color one and would have to be dyed or should I send out to get it done?
If so who's got the best dash pad for the money?
Thanks,
Bill
Response(s)
|
| Question From:
mike
2008-04-28
| Question:
Hey everybody. I have a 73 Road Runner, originaly a 340 car but now with a 440...anyways I've been thinking about putting the huge PLYMOUTH letters on the ends but Im not sure if this would be to taboo or incorrect. Were there any 73's with the Superbird Plymouth decals on them? I know people customize their cars but I don't want this chicken to look stupid. Anybody?
Response(s)
Mike, I ordered a new 73 RR with the 440 GTX option package. If I had only known there were only 117 made. Personnally, I think the Plymouth decal would look out of place on the Runner. I would add the correct stripe kit including the 440 hood bulge decal. The side stripe kit that comes down the side and over the top looks good. The Plymouth on the rear quarter might be too much. Your call, your ride.
|
| Question From:
Bradley Waitkus
2008-04-23
| Question:
What parts on a 1970 four door Satellite can be used on a two door? For example, are the front fenders, decklid and windshields interchangable?
Response(s)
|
| Question From:
george d hodge
2008-04-21
| Question:
Should I use base coat clear paint or a single stage paint to restore as close to original as possible?
Response(s)
The key words in your question is "close to original". If you are going for a true original concourse level then I would say go with the factory acrilyc (sorry about the spelling) enamel. I have the enamel on my car and it is nearly as nice as base/clear. Remember, the factory paint jobs were not the best in the world. If you want a mirror paint job much better than factory, then go base/clear. It is your call as to the end result and use you want for your project.
|
| Question From:
stan
2008-04-20
| Question:
I have a 1969 Satellite that the hazard flashers do not work. I can not locate the flasher for the hazard lights. I found the turn signal flasher and relay or flasher that is about 1 inch in diameter and about 2 inches long. When I took it to the parts store thye could not replace it or know what it was for. Any help would help. Thanks
Response(s)
Normally the flashers are held in place by a metal spring clip bolted on the dash rail under the radio, etc. Year One and other restroation parts houses have most of the flashers.
|
| Question From:
Kevin
2008-04-20
| Question:
Can anyone help me track down the issue here? My 69 RR (383 auto on the floor) won't start. Battery is fully charged. When I turn the key to "start", I get a click (sounds like a relay snapping open/shut) and the car's electrical system goes dead. No lights, nothing works. I have to put a jump on the battery for a second or two to get the non-igntition systems back (lights, radio, etc). Then I'm back to square one, battery works, non-ignition works, but turn that key to "start" and the all electrical dies. I replaced the starter relay, thinking that might be the issue, but no change whatsoever. Thanks for your help. Kevin
Response(s)
Check your fuse link and you my replace the starter solinoid.
I would suspect a key switch first of all, especially if you have already replaced the starter relay on the firewall.
Kevin, With everything charged and hooked up as it is supposed to be, turn on your headlights and have someone try to start the car. If your headlights go very dim, then either the battery cannot supply the current needed (bad cell, volts may look ok), the starter is shorted and is pulling your battery down so all your other electrics go dead or possibly even a bad positive OR negitive battery cable or end. To eliminate the ignition switch, you can jumper the starter relay on the firewall (jumper the small wire to the large stud holding the large cable going to the starter)and see if the starter turns the engine. If it does, you may have an ignition switch problem. If it does not turn the engine, the starter, solenoid or cable must be bad. Contact me at my email and I can give you my phone number if you need more help. |
| Question From:
Greg Kutsch
2008-04-17
| Question:
Can someone tell me if an Edelbrock Victor series intake manifold for a 383 will fit under the hood of my 1969 Road Runner? Intake is approx. 6.10 inches tall from what the catalog says. Thank you.
Response(s)
|
| Question From:
Mike Hardin
2008-04-17
| Question:
I was going / in the process of restoring a '72 Satellite. Body works looking good but I want to change the course of the restoration to a restomod. I'm now toying with the idea of purchasing a salvage Charger SRT8 and swapping everything into the '72 Satellite...engine, trans, dash, electronics... One thing I've found out is that the '72 tunnel will have to be modified to fit the factory 5 spd trans. Has anyone done such a project and what are the con's? Is there a tranny mount available? I know Shoemaker makes engine mounts for a 5.7 / 6.1 conversion and TTI makes headers. Thanks for your advice in advance.
Response(s)
Real big hammer, torch and a welder. If it don't go good drink more beer.
|
| Question From:
tom munsch
2008-04-17
| Question:
One of the guys that works for me has a 1968 Road Runner. It has a 440 in it w/automatic transmission. The transmission has craped out. What he wants to do is put a 4-speed in it. He doesn't know where to start to find a 4-speed transmission & the linkage, clutch, etc. to make this happen. Can he buy these parts new? Or, do you have to find used parts? I have no idea how to help him to find the parts he needs. Is there anyone on this website that would know where to get these parts & what all it would involve to do this? I've tried to search the web to get ideas but have really not had any success at all. I need help. If you could help me it would greatly be appreciated. Just for reference I'm located in the dfw, TX. area. Thanks Tom
Response(s)
Tom, Everything is available, whether it is new or other sources. Sources like Brewer Transmissions can provide the correct transmission, clutch fork, throwout bearing, shifter, boot, z-bar, brackets,pivot balls and the clutch/pressure plate. Places like YearOne can provide the transmission tunnel and similar parts plus many new parts listed above as well. EBay (search under 68 roadrunner or mopar 383 or mopar 440)usually has the 11 inch bellhousings you will need and the rear transmission crossmember (make sure the transmission and the rear crossmemeber match as there are two different tailshafts and mounting locations), flywheels can be bought new as can the clutch. You will need to determine if you want a factory type 4 speed shifter or just go with the aftermarket Hurst unit. Be sure to get the true 11 inch clutch and not the 10.95 scolloped. They are not the same. Year One also has the bracket for the z-bar that will need to be welded to the frame rail. Don't forget to install the pilot bushing in the flywheel end of the crankshaft. Contact me via email and I can give you my phone number if you want more detail.
Two things I forgot to memtion, you will also need the clutch pedel assembly and the clutch rod w/boot that goes from the pedel to the z-bar.
After taking a look at their website, I think Brewers (brewersperformance.com)can supply most everything you need to convert from auto to 4-speed. |
| Question From:
rich
2008-04-13
| Question:
I have a 1970 Road Runner and I want to know how wide are the factory stripes up the hood supposed to be and how far over from the blacked out center do they start?
Response(s)
Rich, Go to the following page and at the right top corner above the questions is a link to download a PDF file with all the measurements you will need.
http://www.roadrunnersite.com/restoqna.php
|
| Question From:
Joe
2008-04-11
| Question:
A pillar trim - for 69 - is anyone reproducing these? I have yet to see a used set in good shape and they all have the top tabs broken off!
Response(s)
Joe, I have seen new replacements from several sources like Tony's Parts (tonysparts.com) and others like Year One and Jim's Auto parts. I think the 68-69's are the same.
|
| Question From:
Tony
2008-04-11
| Question:
Is there only one location for the VIN stamping on the radiator support for a 70 Road Runner? Mine isn't where most of the photo's show it (right on the top lip) but rather down on the backside kind of hidden by the radiator.
Response(s)
|
| Question From:
zach
2008-04-10
| Question:
I found this 1971 Road Runner it is a 383 3 speed car supposed to be numbers matching and it has buckets but no console is this right? If so, how many 3 speed 383 were built in 1971? It would be greatly appreciated.
Response(s)
The standard manual trans in 1971 was indeed a 3 speed unit. Bucket seats with no console would not be out of the wuestion for an "economy" muscle car. If you can find the build sheet you can verify whether or not the car came with a console. Its a good find with ot without a console.
|
| Question From:
Jack Hawkins
2008-04-07
| Question:
I just bought a Plymouth Satellite and the previous owner disconnected the wipers from the motor. I'm trying to put the wipers back, but am wondering if there are any connectors to keep the wiper arms connected to the motor and the wipers. There seems to be no bolts or nuts.
Response(s)
Press the wiper arms onto the shafts. They are held in place by tabs on the underside of the arm in the socket area. To remove the arm, lift on the tab and pull upwards.
Jack, are you speaking of the wiper arms where they attach to the pivots through the cowl or where the actual wiper rods attach to the wiper motor under the dash? First part do as the answer before said, simply push them on the pivots where they come through the cowl. Be sure to run the wiper motor and let it get in its "park" position before installing the wiper arms and blades. If the question is under the dash, there is an arm that bolts to the motor with a nut the serves as a crank arm. The two wiper rods then attach to the crank arm and also to the pivot posts that go through the cowl.
|
| Question From:
Joe
2008-04-06
| Question:
For 69 Road Runner three spoke steering wheel - I can't get the horn pad off to get to removing the wheel - the service manual says to turn the pad counterclockwise - it isn't doing it - any suggestions?
Response(s)
Remove the center button from the steering wheel pad. Beneath the button you will find a 1/2" bolt. Remove the bolt and the horn pad will come off.
|
| Question From:
brian sheffield
2008-04-03
| Question:
Can any one tell me if the 4 door 1970 Satellite quarter panel wheel openings are the same as a 70 Road Runner and the same for the outer half rear wheel wells I want to piece the wheel lips and lower quarters in on the Road Runner and have a clean no rust 4 door to cut up.
Response(s)
Hi Brian,
I am in the same situation and have a four door to use as a parts car. I posted a question asking what four door parts can be used on a two door. Could you please let me know what you've found out and I will ask around to see if the wheel well trim is the same size and/or will fit the Road Runner. Thanks for any help you could give!
Brad
|
| Question From:
John Anderson
2008-04-03
| Question:
How do you adjust a Road Runner horn? Mine goes beep-beep. On the Barret-Jackson Auction a Superbird on stage activated the horn and it was more of a meep-meep, kind of muffled.
Response(s)
John,
The Road Runner horn, when adjusted correctly, has more of the beep-beep sound, just like the cartoon bird. If you want to adjust your horn to your liking, there is a small knurled adjustment screw on the side of the horn. This adjustment is VERY sensitive and a VERY slight adjutment will have a major effect on the sound. Make a mark on the horn and adjustment screw for a reference so you can put it back where it started if needed. Have someone be in the car to blow the horn, make a VERY small adjustment one way and check the sound. Reverse the adjustmnt direction if the sound you want is not acheieved. If you go to much, the horn will stop working. Set the screw back to the starting point and try again. Good Luck
|
| Question From:
Gary Cross
2008-04-02
| Question:
Hi! I am about finished restoring my 1st car I owned, it is a 1968 Plymouth Sport Satellite, way back when. I am having a little bit of trouble in the trunk area with the jack placement anyone out there have a solution as to where the jack is supposed to be placed under the tire on top of the tire what direction it is supposed to be placed as to the top and bottom, front and back? Thank you in advance for the advice ALL will be APPREACIATED!!! Thanks! Gary
Response(s)
Gary, Go to musclecarrestorations.com website. Select "See the Cars" from the left picklist. Then select the Mopar set. Under the "Featured Restorations" you will see a Black 68 Road Runner 4 speed car. Select it and click on the link for all the pictures. On page 28, there are two pictures of the truck area exactly the way the jack and tire should be positioned. Should be the same for your car. Hope this helps.
|
| Question From:
Joe
2008-04-01
| Question:
For 69 RR - regarding the the heat control panel - does anyone reproduce the FAN and TEMP plastic levers? Is there supposed to be a light on this panel?
Response(s)
Not that I have ever seen, someone else may know different. I have seen several complete panels on eBay for a reasonable cost. A far as I know, there were no lights on the heater control panel.
|
| Question From:
53Elbear
2008-03-30
| Question:
I have a question about the alternator wiring for a 69 Plymouth Sport Satellite. The replacement alternator I installed has a 3 connections, one for the battery output and 2 marked Field. The regular has one wire going to the alternator that is marked field but which connections does it go to on the alternator, since the are both marked field? What connects to the other connector marked field. One field connector is 180 degrees from the Battery connector, the other is 90 degrees. My car has the old style regulator. My wiring harnnes only had 2 wires going to the alternator I do not know if a wiring is missing or not.
Response(s)
Connect the one field wire from the regulator on your harness to either of the field terminals on the alternator. Make and hook up a jumper wire from the other field terminal on the alternator to a suitable ground. I believe MasterPower's website documents this.
Opps - I meant PowerMaster - check their tech help.
FYI - The procedure above will work fine. You purchased an alternator the was designed to be used with the newer electronic voltage regulator which uses a two wire system to control field current. Your original mechanical regulator used only one wire to control the field current. On the older alternators, one field terminal was grounded. |
| Question From:
Zach
2008-03-30
| Question:
I posted below about the Broadcast sheet for the Road Runner its actually for a 1972 Belvedere/Satellite Road Runner its VIN# is RP23M2G186291 it came with the Premium Price class had a 400 1-2bbl 8 cyl 2dr hard top I had to clear a few things up good luck.
Response(s)
|
| Question From:
Harold Smith
2008-03-26
| Question:
My brother gave me a 73 Road Runner. The bird is in need of a major resto job. I know the complete history of the car, it came with the 400 motor but my brother blew it up. I still have it, but I'm thinking about dropping in a new 440, and pulling the 3 speed column shift auto and replacing it with the 4 speed pistal grip. I know in the past the 73-74 Road Runners haven't had a good resale value, but I've noticed the prices starting to go up. When I restore this car and add the 440 and 4 speed, how bad would it hurt the resale value down the road?
Response(s)
That's anyones guess as to how bad it will hurt the resale value. Your really not restoring it if your changing out the drive train. To "restore" really means to re-do what is there and bring it back to what it was originally. I personally don't see the 73-74's bringing big bucks in the near or even further future personally. I don't feel you would be hurting it much as far as value. If its a rare car with rare features then that may be a different story. It doesn't sound as though it was any thing out of ordinary. If we really knew what these cars do as far as value in the future I would have never passed up buying several 71 Cuda's I had the chance to buy over the years. Value on these cars is kinda unpredicatable. What dictates their value is demand and then supply. I bought a 72 Rallye Charger with 440-4 spd with dana 60 rear (hemi rear end) back in 1990 and its just starting to go up in value. Still not worth tons of money, but not many 4 spd cars like it out there. Hope this helps.
|
| Question From:
Greg Kutsch
2008-03-20
| Question:
This might sound like a simple question, but I can't remember where the dark blue wire from the positive side of the coil goes to. And where does it eventually end up inside the car? Thank you for helping.
Response(s)
Greg, The dark blue wire is the + positive battery wire. It actually has two functions. When you have the ignition switch in the start postion, the ignition switch applies 12 volts to the coil through the blue wire. When the engine starts and the ignition switch is released to the "run" position, the blue wire is also connected to the white ballast resistor on the firewall. The ballast resistor drops the normal 12 volts from the battery to around 6 volts. This is so the coil will not overheat. Hope this helps a little. Ron
Very much appreciated Ron!
Regards, Greg.
|
| Question From:
John Tomsich
2008-03-19
| Question:
I owned a 1972 Road Runner GTX 440 auto black with a cream colored interior. Does anyone know how many of these cars were made?
Response(s)
If i am right I may not be but I heard at one time ther were like 500 1972 road runner gtx 440 magnums 4 speed automatics if that fits your description of your car
453 to be exact according to Galen Goviers production numbers.
|
| Question From:
Stan
2008-03-18
| Question:
This is more of a help item then question. I have been trying to resolve a rear oil leak on my 69 Sport Satellite with a 383 H code engine. I found that the block from the factory was drilled wrong for the Rear Oil seal retainer. I had to blue the lip of the seal and bolt it in place. I found out that the bolt pattern was off to the passage side about .065. I had the Retainer milled down .065 on the passager side and cut the side seal grove down .030 to allow sealant in this area. I also had them put set screw in the retainer block to center the retainer on the crank shaft. When I got an even transfer on the crank shaft I lock tight the set screws in place and installed the retainer. I have not had any oil leaking since I did this work to the oil seal retainer block. I have read of several people are having the same problem this may help them.
Response(s)
|
| Question From:
Bobby Gish
2008-03-18
| Question:
Do the lines at master cylinder on drum brakes have the lines that have the round mesh around them to be correct for a 69 GTX.
Response(s)
I was told that they should have the reinforce brake lines that in-line-tube sales. I answered my own question.
|
| Question From:
zach
2008-03-17
| Question:
Hello all just wanted to let you 1971 Road Runner owners that I have a build sheet that may be yours chances are slim to none but what the Heck Vin P23M2G186291
Response(s)
That's nice of you, Zach, I hope someone is looking for it! It's also a long shot but I'm looking for a build sheet for my car... VIN RM23N0G172541 1970 Road Runner
If that 6th digit is actually a "2" like I am thinking it is, then that broadcast sheet is actually for a 1972 model year car. The "M" means a special order engine was in that car. Nice you are at least attempting to find the person who may have that car.
yeah I decoded the vin again its for a 1972 400 1-2bbl 8cyl 2 dr hard top Premium price class |
| Question From:
matt d
2008-03-17
| Question:
Does anyone know of a company that make repo steelies in size 15x4.5" or 15x5"? Gonna be put on the front of a 68 runner. Anything would help thanks!
Response(s)
Matt,
Have you tried companies like Coker Tire or Wheel Vintiques (wheelvintiques.com). They may be able to direct you to someone if they don't have what you need. Hope this helps.
Try Stockton wheel, they made a full set for me and powder coated original style also. fast turn around they make 14 to 20 inch
|
| Question From:
Tim Fitzpatrick
2008-03-01
| Question:
Who does three speed wiper motor restorations? I was going to have The Wiperman do it for my 70 Road Runner, but it appears he closed-up late last year.
Response(s)
Tim, I think Totally Auto does restorations on wiper motors. Their website is totallyautoinc.com. Hope this helps.
If you go to the moparts site or do a search on Jules the wiperman. His work is excellent.
|
| Question From:
danny collins
2008-03-01
| Question:
Hey guys, just found this site lots of great answers. So here is my problem. I just bought a 69 Road Runner with a c.j. batten performance 383. They had converted the ign to mopar electronic with a 72 charger 400 distributor. We changed the holley 650 for a 750 and found the vacuum advance not working. So we got a new distributor, changed plugs, wires (went with msd wires) cap, button. Now the motor idles great and when you romp on it lots of power. But my problem comes in when you try to maintain a certain speed it has a miss like not getting any gas or something. Any suggestions as what to do?
Response(s)
Danny, Hard to troubleshoot something like this but here are a few things I would look at. Make sure the gaps are OK on the plugs (even if you set them first). Check and make sure the total timing is where you want it (around 36 - 38 degrees). Does the car take nailing the throttle when it is at the cruise point that the problem shows up? If so, it probably is not fuel related. If it bogs, you may have a carb or float level problem. If your carb has a choke, close the butterfly with about 3/8 inch left open and try driving the car. It will not have any power but it may tell you if the problem goes away (richer) then it may have a carb problem. Last thought, can you install the old 650? If so, it would eliminate the 750 as a problem.
I would up grade the coil to mopar performance blaster coil P4876732 and also get a msd 6AL box .
|
| Question From:
mike phoenix
2008-02-29
| Question:
I want to change the turn signal switch in my 67 GTX. But dont know how to remove the horn ring to get started. Help...i dont want to break anything!
Response(s)
Mike, If you have the stock wheel, the center chrome cap on the horn ring with the Plymouth emblem simply twists off. Once off, you will see the nut to remove the steering wheel. IMPORTANT!! DO NOT push or pull on the wheel. USE A STEERING WHEEL PULLER! Your GTX has a collapsable steering coulmn for safety. It has shear pins in the center shaft and break away tabs holding it to the dash frame that can be damaged if you push or pull to much on the shaft. I have a lot of experience with these columns and they can be damaged. Hope this helps.
it must not be the stock wheel...it has the half circle grasp bar in it...thanks for your help thou !
Mike, The stock wheel is the 1/2 circle chrome ring with the chrome center cap. If it has a cap in the center with the Plymouth Emblem in it simply twoist it off. The 1/2 circle horn ring stays on the wheel. It can be removed after the wheel is taken off.
|
| Question From:
Paul
2008-02-29
| Question:
Is there any difference between the front fenders of a 69 Road Runner and a 69 Satellite? Are they interchangeable?
Response(s)
Yes, the two are the same other than if your satellite has side molding the holes will need welding close, Russ
|
| Question From:
Elizabeth
2008-02-29
| Question:
I am in the freight shipping business and have recently set up a shipment for a 1970 stock hood from a Road Runner. The shipment weight was originally 45 lbs and Roadway Express and charged me with 220 lbs for the shipment. I need a spec sheet showing the weight of this hood or something of that nature to dispute the weight with Roadway. Can someone help me? Thanks so much. Elizabeth, Oldgloryfreight.com
Response(s)
Your rate is going to include the weight of the crate you (hopefully) shipped the hood in.
|
| Question From:
ben davis
2008-02-27
| Question:
2 question about 1969 Road Runner with 440 engine 9.5 to 1 compresion, action plus weiand intake manifold, holley 750 cfm 3310, vacum secondaries carburetor headers, msd distributor initial timing 18 bftc total timing 36 degrees all in by 3200 rpm msd ignition with rev limiter 4900 rpm chip 4 speed manual 3.23 gears. I keep getting this bog going from 2nd to 3rd gear at 3/4 throttle. I have changed secondary springs the heavy spring makes the bog later in the rpm range the lighter springs earlier in the rpm range. This is the plan I have install a perform throttle body on my holley 750 with no choke horns and ajustable air bleeds. This to give you 25 to 50 horse power gain acording to summit racing. Also installed a o2 sensor edelbrock fuel monitor to check all 3 curcuits idle, cruse, full open throttle. Will this help me figure this out waiting for warmer weather to have bong weld to header collector? Need input.
Response(s)
Make sure you have the correct fuel level in the secondary bowl. Raise it a rturn an see if it helps. Also, do you have sufficiant size fule lines (and pickup in the tank) to make sure you are not starving for fuel flow. A simple fuel pressure gauge will tell you this. Hope this helps.
|
| Question From:
patrick j calvey
2008-02-23
| Question:
1970 Road Runner turn signals fender mount...anyone have the correct location. New fenders were not drlled out, old ones gone.
Response(s)
i thought the 70,s had the turn sigals mounted in the end of the hood scoop along with the engine size call-out???? Russ
The 70 RR has the turn singles on the hood call-out with the engine size(as seen from inside the car)This was an option. Rick
|
| Question From:
patrick j calvey
2008-02-23
| Question:
Anyone have a clue how many 1970 Road Runners were produced with 4 speed, bucket seats (console of course) and factory a/c? I was told it was less than 25..........2drht.thanks pat
Response(s)
They never broke cars down that far in regards to production numbers. Don't be insulted, but many people say "i have one of 2 built coz mine came like this and that and this, etc. When we start trying to say well mine has this and mine has that...there just isn't production numbers to break that down. Most guys try to do that coz they want to try and make their ride worth a lot more. Hope this helps you.
Galen Govier has a registry that breaks the cars down by options and build sheet identifiers. Mopar made thousands of Road Runners after 69. Its all up to what the market will bear. Barret Jackson didnt make things easy for the budget builder.
|
| Question From:
David Rudolph
2008-02-23
| Question:
What is the distance in inches between the seams of a vinyl roof on a 1968 Road Runner?
Response(s)
|
| Question From:
Mike Keon
2008-02-22
| Question:
What happens when the positive and negative wires are reversed on the coil? Will it cause a lack in power?
Response(s)
Mike, I have talked to serveral friends that are VERY good in automotive electrics. We all cannot find a reason that reversing the battery input and the distributor lead should make much difference. This is assuming you still have a points type system. The coil is not grounded, the current flows through the windings through the points to ground. When the points open, the collapsing magnetic field around the coil induces a high voltage in the secondary winding of the coil which then goes through the distributor cap to the plugs. An electroinc system may be sensitive to the reversal of the batt/dist wires??? The only thing I can think of that may make a difference in the charging of the coil is if the manufacturer has wound the primary around a special core in such a way as to promote a better magnetic field. Hope this helps.
|
| Question From:
David Rudolph
2008-02-22
| Question:
What is the correct color engine paint for a 1968 Hemi Road Runner - street or race?
Response(s)
I believe it is street hemi for 68
|
| Question From:
charles hooper
2008-02-21
| Question:
To be or not to be a full replacement rear quarter
Response(s)
Are you asking whether you need a full replacement? Or, where you can get one? Also, what year Road Runner?
full 1970 panels some say they will some say they will some not?
autobodyspecialties is coming outor did come out with a full stock repo made overseas and is getting good reviews. |
| Question From:
Russ jenkins
2008-02-18
| Question:
After fixing the dash harness on my 1969 Road Runner (smoked the turn signal wires from a mis located wire in the column). I re-insralled the harness and now when I turn the head lights on I loose the panel lights. In the park position, the panel lights work fine. I checked the fuse box and once I turn on the head lights, the power to the fuse disappears???? Thanks to anyone that can help, Russ
Response(s)
Russ, I looked at my wiring diagram (from musclecarwiring.com) which is a laminated two sided full color diagram. I am concerned that since you stated you smoked the turn signal wiring that you have a problem there. The diagram shows that most all the lights (fuse power)go through the turn signal switch (TSS). Have you turned on your headlights and moved your TSS L/R lever to see if anything different happens with the dash lights including the turn signals operation. If you see changes it might tip you off that there is a problem in the TSS. I know this is not much but good luck.
|
| Question From:
Rick
2008-02-15
| Question:
Does anyone know where I can get rear panel for 68 Road Runner? The panel just above the fuel filler.
Response(s)
If you are referring to the frame piece behind the bumper it is called a rear crossmember...It is available at a few places...Year One, Auto Metal Direct, and I believe Goodmark and the Paddock sell them also
|
| Question From:
Don
2008-02-08
| Question:
Does anyone know the number of Road Runners that were produced in 1974?
Response(s)
I know it was a large number if I remember right it should be like 15,000
11,555 1974 Road Runner 2 dr coupes were produced according to Galen Govier. Lyle
|
| Question From:
stan
2008-02-06
| Question:
Can anyone tell me were to find a Viton rear oil crank shaft seal for a 69 Plymouth 383? I have looked all over the internet and cannot find one. If not is there a better seal rather then the factory rubber seal and were can it be purchased? Thank You
Response(s)
Stan, In response to your earlier post about the seal retainer not setting level where it meets the block. IT HAS TO BE A TIGHT FLUSH FIT!!!! The rear aluminum seal retainer MUST fit flush in the block. With no seal in the retainer, you should be able to slide the retainer into postion and the top (bottom) of the retainer should be LEVEL with the oil pan rail of the engine block. When installing the top seal and the bottom seal in the retainer, make sure there are no pieces of the old seal or flashing on the new seal that prevents the retainer from setting flush in the block. If the retainer is cocked or crooked at all, there is NOTHING to stop the oil from pouring out of the engine. Email me if you want my phone number and we can discuss in more depth if you want.
|
| Question From:
Don
2008-02-06
| Question:
Could some one tell me how to remove the heater core from my 74 Road Runner. Mine is leaking. Thanks
Response(s)
If you have AC it must be drained and disconnected as well as the heater hoses and blower motor. The core is contained in a large box under the dash that I had to completely remove. You must remove the glove box and side panel first, as well as a bunch of vacuum hoses (mark them!) Then lots of bolts and LOTS OF PATIENCE. It will come out with barely enough clearance with the front seat still in. Get a repair manual if you can for the pics. Good luck
|
| Question From:
Frank Baker
2008-02-06
| Question:
Is there a list of all vin numbers for 1969 Plymouth Road Runner 2 Door Sedan made in Los Angeles? As RM21H9E1xxxxx to RM21H9E1xxxxx.
Response(s)
I found a site on google where you can do a free search for your vin number. The search the I put in was "1968 hemi power brake booster bracket" in a google search. The second hit on the page that came up is a free search for Muscle car vin numbers. Hope this helps.
L. Scott
|
| Question From:
Stan
2008-02-06
| Question:
I have a 69 Sport Satellite with power steering. I had to drop the pan to put on a new rear oil seal and when I cranked up the engine to check the oil seal I left the steering leakage off just in case I have to work on it again. The power steering pump was locked up and I replaced it at the same time. When I cranked the engine the steering wheel started turning on its own and it takes a lot of force to prevent the steering wheel from turning. Could there be some wrong with my steering box causing this?
Response(s)
Your steering box is problably locked up due to contamination. Either rebuild or exchange for rebuilt unit. There are several business servicing these units.
|
| Question From:
Stan
2008-02-05
| Question:
I have a 69 Plymouth with a 383 4 barrel. When I bought the car it had an oil leak at the rear of the engine between the engine and transmission. The enegine was just overhauled with about 4 hours on it, never driven. I put a new rear seal in the engine and after idling about an 45 minutes and giving the engine a little gas the oil leak came back. I can not tell if its coming from the rear seal or above it. It is not dripping a little it is dripping hard from several areas between the engine and transmission. Any ideas on what is causing this?
Response(s)
Stan, It could be a number of things. First, I assume you still have the windage tray in the oil pan which of course requires two oil pan gaskets. It is very easy to over torque the pan bolts and create a leak. Second, I assume when the rear seal was replaced it was the neoprene type. Again, it is very easy to create a problem here. The seal itself usually is OK (installed the correect direction?)but the side seals from the rear seal retainer can cause problems if the side seals are not installed correctly. Last, there are three pipe plugs behind the flywheel that seal off the lifter galleys. If one of these are leaking you have to pull the transmission and flywheel to repair. You may be able to clean everything really good, pull the inspection pan from the bellhousing and look up into the flywhell area with a flashlight and see where the leak is coming from. One more thing I just remembered, I saw one 440 have a head gasket oil leak that was following the block casting and leaking off the rear of the engine. Another thing, make sure the two fittings just behind the intake valley pan on the rear engine block are not leaking. Normally one is plugged and the other has your oil pressure sending unit. If one of these leak it could also followin the engine block down and look like a rear seal leak. Hope some of these ideas will help. Ron
Thank you for that information. I have checked everything to mention but I have not pulled the transmission since its an automatic. Have you ever heard of the seal block having a crack in it causing problems. I have also pulled the rear seal out again since I posted this and the seal was in correct but the rateainer block is not level on the face were it meets the block.
|
| Question From:
Gene
2008-02-04
| Question:
I have a all stock 69 Road Runner with std brakes and want to covert to power brakes. How hard is it to complete this work and find the original parts?
Response(s)
Sorry Gene, I re-read question and I see that you want to go to power.
|
| Question From:
Dave Henderson
2008-02-03
| Question:
Can anyone tell me the production numbers for a 1973 Road Runner, paint Golden Haze, 340-4v, 727, no air conditioning? Thanks
Response(s)
They never broke them down that far. Read the post dated 2-23-08 in regards to production figures for a 70 RR I responded to above for more detail. Guys that wanna know how many coz mine is green or blue it don't work. The numbers aren't out there. As far a 73 RR's with 340 and auto 4428 of them. Hopes this helps.
|
| Question From:
kolb
2008-02-03
| Question:
What transmission fluid does Dodge recommend for 1966 Dodge Dart with a 225 slant 6 and 904 transmission? I am replacing the seals.
Response(s)
You CANNOT use Dexron or Mercon fluid. If you have concerns, buy your fluid or ask your local Mopar dealer for assistance.
|
| Question From:
Chris
2008-02-02
| Question:
Does anybody know the difference between 69 Road Runner headlight bezels and 69 GTX headlight bezels?
Response(s)
gtx head light bezel is more of a I shape in the center between the two rings that seperate the head lights the road runner seems to go more on a triangler shape on the ends look them up on ebay youll see what i meant there are to explain
|
| Question From:
Jay Cross
2008-01-30
| Question:
I have a 1969 Road Runner that came from the factory with 383 4 speed and is blue with blue interior. I am certain it came from the factory with black carpet, but it has been removed. How can I confirm the factory carpet color?
Response(s)
Check your interior code on your fender tag...It may be M2B,H2B, are the codes I am seeing for a blue bench seat....either way the carpet should be dark blue
|
| Question From:
todd howard
2008-01-29
| Question:
I am looking at buying a 1973 Road Runner how can I make sure its not a Satellite?
Response(s)
Make sure the dash and fender tag VIN numbers read RM21. If they dont then its not a roadrunner.
|
| Question From:
Mark Jones
2008-01-29
| Question:
I have a 1974 Plymouth Road Runner #'s matching 400 automatic. I don't have the broadcast sheet, but I do have the fender tag. There is no r-code for radio, and no v-stripe code on the tag. Is this for sure a 100% radio & stripe delete Road Runner? Thanks for any help Mark.
Response(s)
Not necessarily. Your asking for 100% surety. That's wanting a guarantee that was a delete car of these two items. I don't think anyone can answer that for you. Usually if they were radio delete or strip delete I thought they were coded in that fashion. Good question though. Sorry i couldn't help more.
|
| Question From:
Bob Cordeiro
2008-01-28
| Question:
I just purchased a 74 Road Runner that the prior owner messed up big time. It is missing the radiator support tag with the engine specs. Can anyone let me know what the gap and timing is suppose to be? I would appreciate any help.
Thanks
Bob Cordeiro
Response(s)
According to my Chilton's book, these are the specs for the 1973 model year. I have no reason to believe the specs will be any different for the '74 model year. The spark plug gap was the same for all years and all displacements.
Spark plug gap is .035 for big or small block.
Timing is as follows:
318 = 2.5 deg. BTDC manual; TDC automatic 340 = 5 deg BTDC manual; 2.5 deg BTDC automatic 400(175HP)=10 deg BTDC automatic only-no manual
400(260hp)=2.5 deg BTDC manual; 10 BTDC automatic 440 = 10 deg BTDC automatic only - no manual I would say that you could use these specs with confidence.
Bob, you can order a new decal for your car from year one or any other outlet that would carry the decals for our cars. I thought maybe you wanted to replace it.
|
| Question From:
chad
2008-01-25
| Question:
Looking at a 71 Road Runner, maybe. Besides the vin on the dash, are there any other # locations on the body that would confirm it's not a Satelite? Thanks regards.
Response(s)
On 69's you can check the radiator support bulkhead near the top and just to the left (driver's side) of the center of the bulkhead on the engine side of the bulkhead (towards the inside of the engine compartment). They will be almost hidden by the radiator. There should be numbers stamped into it. These should correspond to the last 6 digits in the VIN. I'm not sure if they still placed this info here in '71 but its worth a look. You can also check the door jamb areas as well.
Yes, it was still located on the radiator supports but maybe be hard to see with the radiator in place. Sometimes you can see it from the back side if you look closely and the stamp went deep enough.
drivers side door, there is a glued on tag with vin on it. |
| Question From:
Kevin
2008-01-24
| Question:
Hi. I've got a 1969 Road Runner B5 blue with the interior color B7. Can anyone tell me what the "B7" color is (in english)? I'm trying to get some interior dye to freshen up the car are I don't see anybody offering B7-it's all names like Baltic Blue, Jamaica Blue, Dark Metallic Blue, etc.. Thanks for your help-Kevin
Response(s)
The "non-english" answer is Jamaica Blue Poly. I recently "Freshened" my dash and used SEM vinyl dye for the pads. Hands down it's best on the market, it doesn't scratch and it keeps the vinyl pliable. MIne is black so I'm not sure what they call their blue shades, but check with Totally Auto Restorations, I'm sure they can steer you in the right direction.
|
| Question From:
Mike Hardin
2008-01-23
| Question:
I need to swap a 8 3/4 axle in place of an existing 8 1/4, in a 72 B-Body Satellite. Only info I can find on this swap details a 8 3/4 going into an A-Body. Will the B-Body with an existing 8 1/4 rear accept the 8 3/4 without a lot of modifications?
Response(s)
The 8-3/4 swap should be relatively easy. You may need to get new mounting plates (the plates the springs bolt to which hold the spring to the rear housing tubes). These can be obtained from Mancini Racing (www.manciniracing.com). You will also need a driveshaft - either from a 71-72 big block car or have one made for you. The last thing to check is the u-joint size. Make sure your trans yoke uses the 7290 yoke (there are 2 sizes; 7260 and 7290 - the 7290 is larger). I'm fairly sure all b-body cars used the 7290 but its still a good idea to verify this. the guys at Mancini Racing should be able to help you with this as well. You'll probably want a set of new springs as well but the ones you have should work for now.
It shouldn't be a difficult swap at all.
|
| Question From:
Andy
2008-01-22
| Question:
I have a 69 Road Runner convert. I am trying to find the paint codes for the inside of the doors and for the dash (the metal part). The outside is B5 blue. The inside of the dorrs may be the same color but not as shiney. The dash is a darker blue, no gloss color. Can any one help? Thanks
Response(s)
|
| Question From:
Mark
2008-01-18
| Question:
Sorry if this has been addressed already but was wondering if anyone has had sagging problems with new OEM XHD Mopar springs. I need to replace my leaf springs on my 1969 RR and I have read other Mopar forums with bad results with the OEM Mopar leaf springs. A lot of people seem to notice no difference or sagging within a year of installing OEM Mopars. Others seem to have good luck with ESP stock or +1" leaf springs. I currently have 235/60/15 all the way around and am looking for just a slight rake. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Response(s)
Mark.I replaced the rear springs on my 1968 RR,with HEMI leaf springs.PT# p4452982&p4452983.The LH spg.has 6 leafs,RH spg. has 5+2 half leafs. I also replaced the front mounting brks.and backing plates.The mounting brks. have (2)sets of holes for adjusting ride height.Also replace the upper and lower bushings on the rear spg. shackles.This set up should fix your sagging problem.
Look at ESPO Springs and Things Web site. They can get you springs bild for an raise up to 2.5 inches for a good price.
|
| Question From:
arthur laliotis
2008-01-17
| Question:
Could anyone tell me the color code for b3 ice blue polly and b5 blue fire poly both off a 1969 Road Runner? Also does anybody know where the decals in engine bay, trunk and inside doors? Cheers! Artie from down under
Response(s)
|
| Question From:
Erik
2008-01-14
| Question:
Great site. I wish I would have found it sooner and saved some headaches. I apologize if this is in the archives, but I didn't see it. Does anyone know the color for the hood scoop inserts for a '69 Runner with the V21 stripes, and the air grabber? I know they were a reddish color but I am looking for something to match to.
Response(s)
i'm assuming you are looking for the color of the screens and not the filler plate?
correct, the color of the screens
|
| Question From:
David Smith
2008-01-14
| Question:
I am looking for a restoration guide for a 1972 Road Runner. All the guides I have found end with the 1971 model year. Can anyone help?
Response(s)
I also own a 72 road runner and never have found a restoration guide but a 71 is close and thats what i have used in the past what are you trying to find out about the car I have taken apart mine and have really memorized how to put it back together the only thing is the wiring on mine is going to be a custom thing
I also own 1972Roadrunner 4 speed car Bought in the early 80,s and is restored. Torred Red in color. Bright orange high impact color I would call it
Dave, is there a specific guide for restoring a '71 available?
thanks |
| Question From:
Jason Martyniuk
2008-01-14
| Question:
Does anyone know where I can get the felt strips for the driver and passanger windows? The ones that go on the glass in the window track! Yearone used to have them but not anymore! I'm at the last of my restoration and have NO leads at all! Any help or maybe's would be alot of help! Thanks.
Response(s)
Check out paddock.com
Try www.hardensmcw.com
|
| Question From:
Jeff Hunt
2008-01-12
| Question:
Anyone need reproduction M2 interior door panels? M2 is the medium grade interior not the more common high grade. These doors are not currently reproduced so we need around 40 orders for Legendary to tool up to make them. Anyone interested go here to Moparts.com and post up so we can get them made. There are pics of what they look like in case you are not sure. Thanks, Jeff
[url]http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=4082144&an=0&page=0#Post4082144[/url]
Response(s)
|
| Question From:
Pranay
2008-01-11
| Question:
Hi everyone, thank you for all your help before, everything suggested worked perfectly. I'm going to attempt a patch on the driver side frame rail to the right of where the lower control arm comes up if your staring at the car left to right from the driver side. I was just wondering, what guage metal should be used and what thickness wire for the mig welder? Thanks so much to all.
Response(s)
|
| Question From:
mike
2008-01-11
| Question:
How often should you change the oil in your Road Runner? There is maybe 300 miles a year put on it.
Response(s)
on a daily driver they say every 3000 miles but when you have a car that dont get much use i would think you would have to change it until probably 1500 miles i would only change it because of it sitting but maybe youll get some other hints on that I dont really know if the oil goes funny just sitting or not
Mike,
NORMAL oil AND filter changes shouold be around 3000 miles. I change the oil & filter in my 383 Runner in the spring and fall no matter how few miles I put on it. The problem is the oil will retain moisture and other junk from the engine not being run. Even if you do not drive the car it is important to start it regularly and make sure the engine comes up to FULL temperature for several minutes. I keep my Runner on jack stands during the winter and will run the engine at fast idle in high gear. This not only warms the engine but keeps the tranny and rear-end lubricated.
|
| Question From:
jeff mathes
2008-01-10
| Question:
I have bucket seats in my 70 Road Runner, my trim is p6xy gold and black. Upper door frames are tx9, black. So what color are my bucket seats?
Response(s)
Jeff, I have a 70 road Runner also, black body with a gold dust trail on the side. My bucket seats are black with the ribbing on the bottom seat a silver...
If you dont mind me asking how did you find out what color they are. My car is Citron mist metallic gold on the outside and a black vinyl top
Jeff, I have 70 RR with p6xy and tx9. I owned the car in 75 and have recently purchased it back and the seats are original. The buckets are gold with a thin black piping around them same as the door panels. the dash, headliner and upper door trim panels are black. I can send pic's if you like. |
| Question From:
Keith
2008-01-10
| Question:
I have a 69 Road Runner. It has a 70 voltage regulator in it (odd shape connector and flat like the electronic ignition). It doesn't regulate anymore. Since I need to replace it I would like to use a correct 69 regulator. Can I just cut the wires to the old regulator and wire up the new one? Are there any other components that need to be changed out to make it work?
Response(s)
Found the answer to my question. Needed a little rewiring. Works great!
http://www.mymopar.com/charging.htm
|
| Question From:
didjit
2008-01-10
| Question:
I've had a 69 Road Runner 383 auto for about 16 years, 10 of which it's been sitting in a barn. I recently pulled the motor and tranny and rebuilt them. When I rebuilt the body years ago, I pulled the wiring harnesses and break lines with the intention of putting in disks. So here's the question... I have a car with no motor, wiring, or brakes, and I wanna put it all back together. Which job do I tackle first? Is there an order? It looks like maybe put in the brakes first, followed by dropping in the rebuilt motor, and then doing the electrical? Does this sound like the right approach? Thanks!
Response(s)
I would start with the brakes.You will need the room in the engine compartment to mess with the prop. valve and brakelines along the frame.The engine and wiring can come later on.
I would probably do the brakes first (and master cylinder) while the engine is out. I'd also highly recommend a front end rebuild kit. I'm sure your lower control arm bushings, upper a-arm bushintgs and strut rod bushings are all but dried out and shot after sitting so long. Graphite impregnated polyurethane is the way to go for longevity and good handling. You'll also need to replace the power steering gearbox (or have yours rebuilt) if your car has power steering.
Next, I would tackle the underhood electrical harness and harness block on the firewall. You should take it apart and clean all the contacts while the engine is out. Get a new underhood harness (if you need one) and replace the old one.
Once you've got all that done you can then reinstall the engine and hook it all up.
Don't forget to replace the rear soft brake line and rear wheeel cylinders, brake shoes and hardware. The rear drums may need some attention as well - unkess you are going to discs backe there too.
|
| Question From:
Vic
2008-01-09
| Question:
Hi,I have a question for those guys out there that have installed a 426-528 HEMI into their 1968 or 69 Road Runners? I'm planing to put a built-up 528 HEMI with the MOPAR Cross Ram Carb set up into our 1968 Road Runner Poster. Question, will the Cross Ram set-up fit under the stock hood? Or, will I need to buy a glass hood with the scoop?
Thanks for your time and help, Vic
Response(s)
It is so close to the hood that the air horns have to be taken off so I will say no
|
| Question From:
Rae
2008-01-09
| Question:
I have a 1969 GTX and was wondering about the color paint to use on the grill, tail light housing and the trunk lid panel. I think the trunk panel is trimmed in red but what color is the middle of the panel? Thanks so much.
Response(s)
Are you talking about the textured argent silver? If so you can get this paint at Year One and at your local Dodge dealership in spray cans.
|
| Question From:
Donald V. Listermann
2008-01-06
| Question:
I have a stock 69 Road Runner, 383 4-speed. Would it be better to change the cam to a (484 purple shaft) or just put 1.6 roller rockers on? Also could I put a set of 915 heads with 214, 188 valves on without hitting the pistons? Thanks Don
Response(s)
What are you doing with the rest of the engine? If you are keeping it "stock" with the factory intake. carb and exhaust you may want to consider leaving the engine as is. If you are updating the intake, carb and exhaust, the cam you spoke of is good. You need to install the cam and one of the heads you are considering using and check the piston to valve clearance by using two solid lifters, the pushrods and rockers you will be using and turning the engine by hand through a complete cycle. I don't think you will have a problem but there may have been other work done on the engine in the past that you don't know about. Just things to consider....
The Purple shaft cam will be just fine on heads that have not been cut or "milled". You will get more power with a cam swap than you will by going to 1.6 ratio rockers. The 915 heads will be fine as long as they have not cut too much. A surface cut of .005 - .010 is ok. This is usually done to make sure the head surface is completely flat. If more that .020 is taken off you'll need to check for piston to valve clearance just to be safe.
On Chrysler big-blocks the main concern with cams below .500" lift is cam duration. The old rule of thumb was anything under 286 advertised duration was ok with a stock head (with minimal surfacing) but anything over 286 adv. duration was no good unless there were valve reliefs in the top of the pistons.
As for the rest of the setup - I agree with the above post. Once you start going bigger on the cam you then need to consider the intake and exhaust systems as well as the converter if the car is an automatic - and even the rear gearing. Just going to a bigger cam won't help much if the rest of the setup is left alone. To get the most from the cam you need to improve induction (intake and carb) and also the exhaust in order to expel the additional increase in induction. Headers are recommended but not absolutely necessary if you go to a 2.5" dia. (min.) exhaust system and a set of good, free-flowing mufflers like MagnaFlow or the Dynomax UltraFlow. Headers will be your best option, however.
If the car is an automatic I'd recommend that a 2600 rpm converter be added to replace the stock unit as well as a good, aftermarket trans cooler and possibly a switch from 3.23 gears to 3.55 or 3.91. As you can see a "simple" cam swap isn't necessarily so.
An option you may want to consider is the Comp Cams "Magnum Muscle" cam for the big-block Mopar. Its not a lot bigger in terms of lift and duration but will make more power due to its more efficient design which allows the valve to be opened faster, thus building more power at the same lift as the stock hi-po cam. I'm using one of comp's larger cams in my 383 and am very pleased with the power output. The Magnum Muscle cam will also have a lumpier idle - which seems to be the big reason some guys want to swap cams these days.
Good luck with your build whatever your decision.
|
| Question From:
Doug Plumstead
2008-01-05
| Question:
I am restoring a 67 GTX with a console mounted Tach. The Tach and console were out of the vehicle when I bought it. I have the Tach and the console, but I don't know which wires go where. Help!!
Response(s)
Doug,Go to www.classiccar wiring.com.They have a laminated color wiring diagram. Rick
|
| Question From:
brandon
2008-01-04
| Question:
Can someone tell me were is my oil pressure sending unit located at on my 1976 318?
Response(s)
Brandon, The oil sending unit is on the back of the block,just left(pass. side)of the distributor.Good luck,Rick
|
| Question From:
jeff Keith
2008-01-03
| Question:
Could someone with a 1969 Road Runner confirm the following dimensions and specs for me as I will need to know these for storage purposes? Thank you. Length 202.7", width 76.6", height 53.1", wheelbase 116.0", track, F/R 59.5"/59.2", weight 3,940 lb
as a side note are these figures actually listed in your owner's manual(if you have one) and would they be similar for 1968 or GTX models?
Response(s)
|
| Question From:
mike sullivan
2008-01-02
| Question:
I have a 69 Charger and would like to have the rear tail lights restored, that includes the chrome plastic trim ring. Can anyone tell me who does this and provide a # or email to contact? Thanks in advance for any info sent. If you do this kind of work and wish to contact me you can email mdstrucks @aol.com or call 410-335-5516 10am to 8pm est. Thanks, Mike
Response(s)
|
| Question From:
Pranay
2008-01-02
| Question:
Hello, I'm a beginner at trying to restore cars and I recently purchased a 1969 Road Runner with a 383 and an automatic. I need some help from the experts. I'm trying to pull the motor out so I can get it painted. I tried to disconnect the torque converter by the bolts that I saw on the flex plate, however now my flex plate spins freely and when I stick my fingers behind the plate. The torque converter still seems to be attached to the flex plate still. The bolts I had taken out, were not long enough to reach the torque converter but were the only ones I saw. There supposedly is a stall converter on this car but might that have something to do with my problem. Will the motor still come out in this fashion. Also, I've disconnected the starter, but have no room to remove it. Then I thought maybe if I disconnect the header on that side that would free up some room. But I still can't manage to get the starter out. Should I take out the steering column? Has anybody else ran into this problem? Please any help would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Pranay
Response(s)
You would be better off to pull the engine and tranny as a unit.There are just 4 bolts holding the converter to the flex plate.When you take the bolts out.,support the tranny so the weight doesnt mess up the front pump.I would do that before taking out the tranny to block bolts.Hope this helps. Rick
The flex plate (with the starter ring) bolts to the crankshaft. You cannot get to these bolts with the converter/tranny still in the car. The torque converter bolts to the flex plate with 4 bolts. You must rotate the engine to get to all the bolts. This disconnects the torque converter from the engine. Next you must support the transmission and remove the bellhousing bolts that hold the transmission to the engine.
Now, you may need to unbolt the engine mounts and lift the engine slightly on the drivers side to get your starter out. That depends greatly on the brand of headers you have. After the headers are off the engine, motor mounts are unbolted from chassis (may need to remove the mounts from the engine to obtain clearance to slide the engine forward off the transmission), the transmission is unbolted, linkages removed and all wires and fluid lines are removed you should be able to swing the engine out. Don't forget to support the transmission securely. Above all, work SAFE.
|
| Question From:
casey chump
2008-01-01
| Question:
How many 1971 Plymouth Road Runners with a 340, air grabber hood, two tone interior, 727 on the floor were made? Thanks
Response(s)
Total production of 1971 340-4 roadrunners were 1681 which 438 were manual and 1243 were automatic.
|
| Question From:
David Rudolph
2007-12-26
| Question:
Can anybody tell me what vehicle this distributor belongs to #3438577 -- IBS 4019 B -- 41 0 -- Thanks Rudy
Response(s)
Rudy, I checked the MyMopar.com website and found you have a 1971 440 6-pack distributor.
Hope this helps.
|
| Question From:
DB
2007-12-26
| Question:
Anybody have the spec's and drawing for the steering column on a 71 Road Runner? I have found everything, but the column wiring and internal switches. Thanks
Response(s)
DB, You may try and find a Service Manual either in hard copy or CD.
try chiltons wire diagram manual
70-75 passenger cars,book number 6268
your library should have it,,pretty detailed wiring diagrams
Go to WWW.ClassicCarWiring.com.Rick |
| Question From:
mark
2007-12-25
| Question:
i have a 4 spd, 69 Road Runner, the transmission has no ID pad but does have a casting #c95639, could this be the original trans and if it isn't, is it a correct replacement? Why would there be no ID pad? Any answers would be appreciated, thanks, Mark
Response(s)
mymopar.com has some casting number,,,,,,or stockmopar.com...........or moparpages.com
just a guess but, it's probably a later model tranny. The 833 cases were pretty much the same into t |
|
|
